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aircon working but compressor never stops, outdoor unit runs until i stop the breaker, is it the relay ? how to change it ?


samtab

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aircon working but compressor never stops, outdoor unit runs until i stop the breaker, is it the relay ? how to change it ?

 

hello, one of my aircon is still working but the compressor (outdoor unit) never stops even when I stop the indoor unit. The only way to stop the outdoor compressor is to turn off the breaker. Any idea what could be the problem and who could fix it around Pattaya ? I would like to do it myself if its easy.

 

thank you for your help.

 

 

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It probably just needs to be professionally cleaned.

 

What type of simple diagnostics have you performed?

I'd start by setting the A/C to 30 and see if the compressor still runs flat out chilling the room (it shouldn't run flat out, at 30 it should either not run or barely cool then stop).

 

Also, what make/model airicon is it?

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24 minutes ago, RichCor said:

It probably just needs to be professionally cleaned.

 

What type of simple diagnostics have you performed?

I'd start by setting the A/C to 30 and see if the compressor still runs flat out chilling the room (it shouldn't run flat out, at 30 it should either not run or barely cool then stop).

 

Also, what make/model airicon is it?

 

are you for real ? an outdoor unit compressor that doesn't stop running because of dirt ? so funny

anyway aircon is clean and of course i tried to put it at 30 degre and compressor never stops. Anyway, not difficult to guess if when stopping indoor unit totally, the aircon still run, it means that there is a real problem..

it's samsung krap.

 

 

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10 minutes ago, Crossy said:

For the likely minimal cost I'd get the local aircon chap to have a look.

 

For local knowledge I'll move this to the Pattaya forum.

 

 

to tell you the truth I cannot stand any of the local idiots and try to avoid them as much as possible !

 

I even had aircon cleaners recommended on this forum that destroyed another aircon pcb that i had to re get replaced by official daikin service.

 

so i like to find the problem myself before calling any of these ridiculous services that do not know more than me.

 

and about samsung, they just proposed to change whole PCB without checking anything. how idiots are these ones also, without even visiting to check !

 

 

 

But why nobody here is talking about RELAY problem that Britman talked about in another thread ? he seems to be right actually:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by samtab
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If you really want to DIY then the Electrical forum is the best place, moving there.

 

OK, so is it the relay, or the driver device or something else?

 

What test equipment do you have?

 

Are you confident around things electrical?

 

Can you solder?

 

You may be able to get a replacement board cheaply from Lazada.

 

 

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Task A is to extract the board and check that the relay really is stuck (multimeter or battery and bulb). 

 

Assuming it is the relay then get a new relay and install it (big iron and desolder tool).

 

Put it all back together and Bingo!

 

If you have the right tools and knowledge it's not that difficult.

 

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It could be the relais contacts hanging. However the relais is the output of the temperature control system.

That one switches the relais, is that one not responding? In that case the relais could be activated all the time, so the relais could work fine, but you have problem with control board.

 

Changing the relais, as you saw on movie, take out relais board. The relais is soldered , you do have a solder pistol with small tip? You have new solder? The relais arent expensive and see them in alieexpres 50 cents..

Be aware you connect it in the right way, as 2 pins are just for mechanical fitting and 2 pins are coil connected. 

That if it is like in the movie with a sanyou sfk-112dm. There are other models, depending on coil power.

See datasheet https://datasheetspdf.com/pdf-file/869643/SANYOU/SFK-112DM/1

If you have another model airco (older), then relais system could be different, you have to find out to see what kind of relais.

Or maybe when you have way newer model airco, maybe even with an electronic relais, solid state relais. 

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I reckon the AC might have someone on edge,,... we had a AC unit

moved from back house to front. I was amazed at all the cleaning 

they did .. areas I’d never think of and I didn’t ask them to clean only to move...

 

2 local guys - Ran the electric and put in a breaker switch specifically only for the AC. When installed new the installers

didn't put a breaker (back house)... I’d recommend them in a minute..cost 1,000.. although I didn’t check their IQ .. these guys

were professionals at least with AC. 

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48 minutes ago, sometimewoodworker said:

What relevance is the age of the solder? It doesn’t go bad.

 

But you are almost guaranteed a  dry joint if you try to re-use the solder already on the board which I suspect the poster was alluding to.

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1 hour ago, xtrnuno41 said:

it is not the age, it is having fresh solder to fit back again. You never soldered?

 


I just had to look as I thought it would make a relevant joke and sure enough, it's been done already.

brother-you-solder-gifts-smd-soldering-soldering-s-mens-t-shirt.jpg.2feeaaceca3bfec19a0852839d364f58.jpg

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On 8/28/2020 at 1:07 PM, samtab said:

 

and about samsung, they just proposed to change whole PCB without checking anything. how idiots are these ones also, without even visiting to check !

Because they know what kind of "junk" they deal with. Even Samsung USA do so. Troubleshooting of circuitry is not their job and they have no idea about it. They are trained how to locate the problem and replace the PCB. 

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The contractor could be stuck by electrical sparks between contacts (if it is a magnetic contractor, relay). Sometimes by nocking the relay body (as Crossy recommended by using a screw driver butt) contacts will be released, But you need to identify it in the outdoor unit. 

Edited by The Theory
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13 hours ago, Crossy said:

 

But you are almost guaranteed a  dry joint if you try to re-use the solder already on the board which I suspect the poster was alluding to.

That does make sense and for sure you need that. Some of the solder I’m using was produced about 50 years ago and is still perfectly good, no different to the new stuff I have. It sounded as if he thought solder was like fruit ???? 

 

it is even more important to use a nice lead solder as the lead free stuff is more prone to dry joints.

Edited by sometimewoodworker
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17 hours ago, xtrnuno41 said:

it is not the age, it is having fresh solder to fit back again. You never soldered?

 

You would not be completely wrong to consider solders shelf life.


Flux cored solders can lose performance with age mostly through activators being less effective. This might not be noticeable to those doing occasional DIY work where a 50 year old roll of solder is quite capable of making a perfectly satisfactory joint.

 

I have a old roll of Kester 40/60 which has lost its edge and requires a little flux paste to help flow and then there's the antique roll of Multicore brand that flows perfectly but seems to have developed an aggressive flux.

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On 8/28/2020 at 1:32 PM, Crossy said:

You could try "Impact based maintenance".

 

A good solid thump on the relay with the blunt end of a large screwdriver may actually free it up.

 

 

 

Thank you so much to you and others who told to kick the relay ! it worked !!!

Not difficult to open the aircon and get the board, then I punched the relay and put it back, compressor didn't start until I put temperature lower !

So great !

Thanks again !

 

But now, do you think that it might stop again soon ? or it's possible that it works long time without problem ? in case you think that it might stop again soon, I will try to find it or the full board. I took photos and will try to find it online. Any recommendation ?

 

Cheers !

 

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On 8/28/2020 at 3:24 PM, bankruatsteve said:

My old style Mitsu had to have the contactor replaced 3 times (ants) but always from failing in the off position (compressor would not start).  But,  it was free standing (not soldered).  B500 was the usual replacement charge.

 

 

Contactor.jpg

 

This can be found near the compressor outside ?

 

 

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On 8/29/2020 at 5:13 PM, jimn said:

You are a typical OP who comes on asking for help and then proceeds to be rude to people trying to help him and saying people are idiots, then not returning to the thread for updates. I dont know why you bothered asking for help you obviously know best.

 

as you can see, you're clearly wrong ❤️

 

 

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