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Posted

I've seen some epoxy coating vids also. I don't know any sites, but there is clear epoxy advertised on lasada. I've just bought some to coat a waterfall. 

I've used the Rebar epoxy before.

I think you have to buy some clear stuff and try it on some scrap wood and see how it goes. All the ones I've seen seem to have a 2 to 1 mix. Maybe Google it and see if all epoxies have this ratio mix as I think for your job you would need an epoxy that hardens slower ie not in 30 mins.

@Sometimewoodworker seems to be the ExApert on these matters.

Posted

Thanks for your post...  I did see some Thai ones.. will investigate more...

 

You are just doing clear stuff? That should be simple.. let us know how it goes.. hopefully others will join in here...  I am facinated by the idea.. look at that link..  cheers

 

 

Posted

We did our concrete factory floor with TOA Heavy Guard Epoguard epoxy and it was nice to work with. They also have clear for concrete as well.

 

Be advised if you coat concrete with epoxy, it will no longer absorb water, and it will be slippery when wet, particularly if there is any oil around. 

 

Also, unless you buy an epoxy that is rated sun-proof, it will chalk if it gets direct sun. 

  • Like 2
Posted

I've done epoxy floors. The way we made them non-slip is to mix some sand in the epoxy before spreading. Might not be what you want if you spend some time on your knees and elbows on the surface, though, it's like sandpaper.

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Posted
3 minutes ago, DrTuner said:

I've done epoxy floors. The way we made them non-slip is to mix some sand in the epoxy before spreading. Might not be what you want if you spend some time on your knees and elbows on the surface, though, it's like sandpaper.

Yeah, there are a number of different aggregates available, but they're generally too hard to keep clean. Smooth epoxy worked fine in the plant, it was just something of a leaning curve keeping up with it.

 

We used ground peach-pits for non-skid decking outdoors in FL

  • Like 1
Posted
16 hours ago, Seeall said:

Thanks for your post...  I did see some Thai ones.. will investigate more...

 

You are just doing clear stuff? That should be simple.. let us know how it goes.. hopefully others will join in here...  I am facinated by the idea.. look at that link..  cheers

 

 

I was epoxying together some water pipes and had some epoxy left over so used it on the waterfall. Came up OK. Just used clear epoxy and 2:1 ratio mix and painted on with a medium paint brush. Should stop the tiles falling off hopefully.

I think the same epoxy would work well on wood. As I said, have to try it on some waste wood first.

20200902_064736.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted
11 hours ago, Yellowtail said:

We did our concrete factory floor with TOA Heavy Guard Epoguard epoxy and it was nice to work with. They also have clear for concrete as well.

 

Be advised if you coat concrete with epoxy, it will no longer absorb water, and it will be slippery when wet, particularly if there is any oil around. 

 

Also, unless you buy an epoxy that is rated sun-proof, it will chalk if it gets direct sun. 

Woooppps   should have read this first before I started on the waterfall. Oh well if it goes chalky I can just say it is a feature wall. ????

Do you have a Thai link to sun proof, clear epoxy?

Posted (edited)
14 hours ago, carlyai said:

Woooppps   should have read this first before I started on the waterfall. Oh well if it goes chalky I can just say it is a feature wall. ????

Do you have a Thai link to sun proof, clear epoxy?

 

I've used a lot of this for both priming and finish coating concrete and for finish coating wood tables and benches for in and outdoors, but not in all day direct Sun. Never noticed it chalking, but I have absolutely noticed the finish chalking. 

 

I would not worry about it now, if it does chalk, it will scrub of and you can always re-coat it.

 

Varn.JPG.db5b0bbf2345a4a74fd9af9aa852c659.JPG

Edited by Yellowtail
  • Like 1
  • 2 months later...
Posted
8 hours ago, thailandbeachisland said:

so epoxy is good for a kitchen countertop ?

and would it be expensive and difficult to do ?

thanks.

 

As far as what? If you have bare cement or wood it will seal it up and last for years. We did some counters and back-splashes around some high-use industrial sinks and it still looked good after  almost ten years. Then rubbed it down and gave it another coat and it looked like new. 

 

Like any paint project, the only thing difficult is the preparation. 

 

A quart would do a fair sized counter and should cost less than a thousand. 

 

Posted

We also re-did some shower stalls. Air hammered all the old tile off walls and floor, rendered, sanded, and gave them three coats. Seamless enclosure & floor, super low maintenance.   

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