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Drilling fibre cement board.


Andrew Dwyer

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Quote

used masonry bits in the past and the results weren’t great .

 

I can imagine that masonry bits don't work well.

 

I would try a bit for metal at low speed.

Edited by Morakot
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42 minutes ago, Andrew Dwyer said:

Is there a drill bit specific to drilling fibre cement boards ( Conwood, Shera, etc ) ??

A photo of one or the Thai name would be appreciated.

 

If not, what is the best approach ?

Have used masonry bits in the past and the results weren’t great .

 

Thanks,

Andy

What are you doing with the boards Andy?

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8 minutes ago, vogie said:

I just use the self drilling screws, never bother drilling with a drill, easy peasy, do you know the ones I mean? 

 

 

IMG_20201220_151501.jpg


Yes I think so, seen them in a bronze or silver colour a flat head and the pointy bit almost like a masonry bit ?

Used them to hold some polycarbonate sheets onto some steel round the back of the house .

 

So you can screw through the Shera straight into the steel ?

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16 minutes ago, vogie said:

I just use the self drilling screws, never bother drilling with a drill, easy peasy, do you know the ones I mean? 

 

 

IMG_20201220_151501.jpg

Best things since sliced bread, when drilling steel i always use them for a pilot hole.

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4 minutes ago, Andrew Dwyer said:


Yes I think so, seen them in a bronze or silver colour a flat head and the pointy bit almost like a masonry bit ?

Used them to hold some polycarbonate sheets onto some steel round the back of the house .

 

So you can screw through the Shera straight into the steel ?

Yes, I have fitted these boards all around my house.

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4 minutes ago, Andrew Dwyer said:


Yes I think so, seen them in a bronze or silver colour a flat head and the pointy bit almost like a masonry bit ?

Used them to hold some polycarbonate sheets onto some steel round the back of the house .

 

So you can screw through the Shera straight into the steel ?

Yes you can but advisable to clamp. Depending on board thickness and screw size the board can be pushed back before the screw penetrates the steel.

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2 minutes ago, sandyf said:

Yes you can but advisable to clamp. Depending on board thickness and screw size the board can be pushed back before the screw penetrates the steel.

Clamping is good but usually just push with my spare hand.

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Yeah, I've always used regular drill bits, masonry drills just don't do the job.

 

You need to be able to sharpen your own bits as they do wear quickly. It's a handy skill to have anyway and not that difficult.

 

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1 minute ago, Crossy said:

Yeah, I've always used regular drill bits, masonry drills just don't do the job.

 

You need to be able to sharpen your own bits as they do wear quickly. It's a handy skill to have anyway and not that difficult.

 

Yup , had to sharpen a few times on my other project , 118 degrees ????

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5 minutes ago, vogie said:

Clamping is good but usually just push with my spare hand.

Ok if you can get away with it, all depends on if the screw will churn up the first layer.

A cat cage I built a couple of years ago, more self drilling screws than hot breakfasts, made the roof a doddle.

IMAG0470 (1).jpg

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6 minutes ago, Andrew Dwyer said:

Similar to what BankruatSteve posted earlier Sandy ?

Yes they look similar. I got mine from Global House, they come as individual sizes.

They are sharper than a masonry bit and harder than a normal steel bit. One of the problems with standard masonry is they have an insert at the tip which will often come away when they get hot.

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1 hour ago, VocalNeal said:

Ordinary bits OK but will wear quicker than with wood.

Tungsten steel bits might last a bit longer, and don't cost that much more. (But I see they give you 2x 6mm in that pack, so I guess they'are a bit brittle, especially the smaller diameters?)

Edited by onebir
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38 minutes ago, Andrew Dwyer said:


Yes I think so, seen them in a bronze or silver colour a flat head and the pointy bit almost like a masonry bit ?

Used them to hold some polycarbonate sheets onto some steel round the back of the house .

 

So you can screw through the Shera straight into the steel ?

They sell silver coloured purpose made shera screws with a self drilling tip and a serrated edge under the screw head to countersink itself; no drill bits needed, certainly for the 8/10mm stuff as a battery drill provides the drive.

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11 minutes ago, onebir said:

Tungsten steel bits might last a bit longer, and don't cost that much more. (But I see they give you 2x 6mm in that pack, so I guess they'are a bit brittle, especially the smaller diameters?)

So far, I have used on 3mm steel, concrete, wood, and cement board. Goes right through and no apparent dulling after many holes. When feasible, I prefer pop rivets to the screws. Just prefer the appearance. 

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Surprisingly a few different answers here.

HSS drills

Masonry drills

Multipurpose drills 

Self drilling screws 

 

The easiest and probably cheapest option seems to be the self drilling screws, I have a few left over so will give it a go when I buy the materials.

 

Wish I had known this when doing the guttering ☹️ 
 

Anyhoo, thanks for all the advice guys, it is always welcome.

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5 minutes ago, bankruatsteve said:

So far, I have used on 3mm steel, concrete, wood, and cement board. Goes right through and no apparent dulling after many holes. When feasible, I prefer pop rivets to the screws. Just prefer the appearance. 

Thanks Steve, will probably order a set anyway,  can never have enough diy options  !

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