GavinK Posted July 30, 2021 Share Posted July 30, 2021 Existing one has broken so need to get replaced. Can you recommend brand/type that I can order online. Will be located outside in ceiling recess so weather protected. Main breaker on CU is 63A so does the isolation switch also need to be 63A or can be higher ? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crossy Posted July 30, 2021 Share Posted July 30, 2021 Any switch/isolator rated over 63A will do the trick. Many would just stick one of the 100A Chang knife switches in a suitable box but I've seen isolators in MegaHome although whether they are truly weatherproof is debateable. This sort of thing https://www.lazada.co.th/products/schneider-safety-switch-100a-1-240vac-d223nrb-nema-type-3r-buyucanbuys-i1887582235-s5906010129.html What's the existing one like, can you just get another the same? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GavinK Posted July 30, 2021 Author Share Posted July 30, 2021 This is whats there now. Any good ? Doesn't need to be weather proof since its in a covered area. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crossy Posted July 30, 2021 Share Posted July 30, 2021 If it's not actually faulty and doesn't open under load (it's a 60A MCCB) I'd leave it alone. It should really be in a box, but if it's well out of reach it's fine. What's actually "broken"? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GavinK Posted July 30, 2021 Author Share Posted July 30, 2021 Just now, Crossy said: If it's not actually faulty and doesn't open under load (it's a 60A MCCB) I'd leave it alone. The problem is that lights flicker when shower is being used and sometimes all power is cut off if I turn on the tv, but this switch stays in the open position. If I flick isolation switch off then back on, power is restored. I can see one supply cable to the house isn't fully connected to the isolation switch, it's kind of only connected by half of the threads in the 16mm cable, and I can't undo the screw in the isolation switch to make a good connection, hence the thinking to replace it. Or any ideas how to undo a stubborn screw? Connections in cu checked and all good. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crossy Posted July 30, 2021 Share Posted July 30, 2021 Ak, OK understood. I'd get something similar and give it a box. Since this is directly on your incoming supply you would have to work live (unwise) or pull the wires at the meter. I'd get the bits and get your local sparky to connect up, then the dodgy wires and stuck screw are his problem. EDIT The 63A one here would do the trick https://www.lazada.co.th/products/mitsubishi-mccb-nf63-cv-2p-20a-63a-75ka-no-fuse-breaker-i1046268355-s2330864130.html Or, since you just want a switch (MCB in the consumer unit is your overload protection), you could go bigger https://www.lazada.co.th/products/2p-100a-125a-nf125-cv-mccb-100-mitsubishi-kerry-i717652840-s1378686316.html Or, go with yea-original Chang switch https://www.lazada.co.th/products/2p-100a-chang-2-i2168764204-s7204388326.html 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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