hello,

 

What do you think ?

 

Fix Toyota Vigo aircon problem with a spray to fix leak, or do you know a good place to fix aircon around Pattaya ?

 

Please tell me your experience ! Thank you.

 

 

 Any decent car mechanic should be able to fix it. Failing that you could try a refrigeration service centre or go to a refrigeration wholesaler and ask them if they know of a competent guy to fix the problem.

You can make up a spray with a little detergent and water and spray around all joints and look for bubbles, or get some bubble leak from the local refrigeration airconditioning wholesaler which generally performs better. Otherwise an electronic leak detector is needed as it is probaly R134a refrigrant.

Also look for any signs of oil around joints and on the condenser which is normally located in front of the radiator check for bubbles oil smears or any damage. They are generally made from aluminium so are not that robust. Spray over condenser to locate any pinhole leaks

Check that the compressor shaft seal is not weeping oil which may indicate a leak.

Whoever you get to have the leak repaired, ask them to use a refrigerant with a dye in it or get them to add the dye, when recharging. This will be useful if there is any future leeks as the dye can be seen at the leak sight with a UV light, making the job quicker and easier in the future.

Stick. I have had problems with my 10 year old Vigo twice, with water leaking inside and dripping onto the front occupant's feet. In both cases the problem was easily fixed.

 

I had so much water you could hear it slushing left and right as I went around corners but both times it was fixed in a flash !

 

The first occasion at the Toyota dealer, while they were trying to con me into an appointment, the Mechanic nipped under the dash and fiddled around, the water drained out. It occurred again a few months later and I pulled into a roadside 're-gas' shop. The Guy smiled, worked the same magic and NO charge thanks.

 

So in my case, I'm guessing the exit pipe draining the water taken out of the air going through the a/c unit, was kinked or lightly blocked. A dream 'fix' anyway ????

 

Hugh gives some good advice if it's a bigger problem but I'd guess a good roadsider might be the place to start. Good luck.

 

Thank you guys, I had no idea that a pro could fix it ????

 

Thanks again but it's not a drain problem, and my question is specific, I do not ask anything else:

 

Have you ever used a "fix leak spray" for cars ?

 

It seems to work for some people, I guess depending on the leak, but this car is only used to move constructions material and other dirty thing, so the reason why I am thinking of trying a spray.

 

And anyway, if you had to pay for a real repair, what is the risk to use a 200 thb fix leak bottle before paying a pro to fix ? Some misinformation bull$hiter spread the word that it could damage your aircon more what a stupid statement, and I guess that the only reason is to push people to pay for an expensive repair.

 

 

 

 

 

 

On 1/16/2022 at 3:24 PM, bangkokstick said:

Thank you guys, I had no idea that a pro could fix it ????

 

Thanks again but it's not a drain problem, and my question is specific, I do not ask anything else:

 

Have you ever used a "fix leak spray" for cars ?

 

It seems to work for some people, I guess depending on the leak, but this car is only used to move constructions material and other dirty thing, so the reason why I am thinking of trying a spray.

 

And anyway, if you had to pay for a real repair, what is the risk to use a 200 thb fix leak bottle before paying a pro to fix ? Some misinformation bull$hiter spread the word that it could damage your aircon more what a stupid statement, and I guess that the only reason is to push people to pay for an expensive repair.

 

 

 

 

 

 

A Car aircon system ( most run on R134a refrigerant) has a low side and high side. The low side pressures vary between about 50 KPA (7PSIG) operating to about 800 KPA (118PSIG) when switched off depending on ambient. The high side when operating can reach pressures of 1200KPA+ (175 PSIG). Some sprays will work on low pressure systems like Gas (around 14 KPA or 2PSIG) but not at vastly higher pressures as in air con systems. Also an amount of oil from the compressor sump circulates with the refrigerant making the sealing of holes difficult without degassing and removing oil. The only chemical stop leak that may work is added to the system internally where it circulates and is forced out of any small pinholes where it hardens on contact with the atmosphere thereby sealing the leak. You may have many pit holes in a flexible line or elsewhere. The cost of using one of the stop leaks will run out at about 2000 baht and needs to be done by a professional so there is labor on top. Personally I would get it done right the first time. The leak found and repaired properly. The longer you delay the more it will eventually cost. If the system runs out completely then the compressor oil will need changing as it is a POE oil and is hygroscopic and will attract moisture from any air that has got into the system after the refrigerant (gas) leaks out. It then turns acidic and can attact the pipes and compressor shaft seal and therefore must be replaced and the oil is expensive plus the extra labour required.

3 hours ago, Hugh Cow said:

A Car aircon system ( most run on R134a refrigerant) has a low side and high side. The low side pressures vary between about 50 KPA (7PSIG) operating to about 800 KPA (118PSIG) when switched off depending on ambient. The high side when operating can reach pressures of 1200KPA+ (175 PSIG). Some sprays will work on low pressure systems like Gas (around 14 KPA or 2PSIG) but not at vastly higher pressures as in air con systems. Also an amount of oil from the compressor sump circulates with the refrigerant making the sealing of holes difficult without degassing and removing oil. The only chemical stop leak that may work is added to the system internally where it circulates and is forced out of any small pinholes where it hardens on contact with the atmosphere thereby sealing the leak. You may have many pit holes in a flexible line or elsewhere. The cost of using one of the stop leaks will run out at about 2000 baht and needs to be done by a professional so there is labor on top. Personally I would get it done right the first time. The leak found and repaired properly. The longer you delay the more it will eventually cost. If the system runs out completely then the compressor oil will need changing as it is a POE oil and is hygroscopic and will attract moisture from any air that has got into the system after the refrigerant (gas) leaks out. It then turns acidic and can attact the pipes and compressor shaft seal and therefore must be replaced and the oil is expensive plus the extra labour required.

 

Thank you, it's correct, but you have no experience with spray to fix leaks ?

 

On 1/18/2022 at 3:08 PM, bangkokstick said:

 

Thank you, it's correct, but you have no experience with spray to fix leaks ?

 

No I have not seen or used it and dont know of anyone that has. I have never seen it in Australia. You seemed determined to use it so good luck.

I forgot to mention I have spent 45 years in the refrigeration and airconditioning trade in service installation and design, not that that should influence you. Maybe you should rephrase your original post to, "I am going to use a spray to attempt a leak repair. Can someone please agree with my plan."

On 1/18/2022 at 5:08 AM, bangkokstick said:

 

Thank you, it's correct, but you have no experience with spray to fix leaks ?

 

There is nothing you can 'spray' onto a car aircon system to fix leaks.  I think you are talking about sealing agent additives that can be introduced into the system to seal leaks from the inside. These contain a chemical which reacts with moisture in the air at the site of the leak and solidify to plug the leak.

Some users get lucky and it works, at least for a while. Mostly having this additional chemical in the system causes more problems. If you have moisture in the system then it will solidify and block it.

Any long term fix requires locating the leak and replacing the faulty seal or component.

You seem pretty determined to try the additive - give it a go and report back.