Afghanistan's Controversial Tourism Boom Under the Taliban

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When planning a holiday, Afghanistan is rarely at the top of most people's must-visit lists. Decades of conflict have deterred tourists since its heyday on the hippie trail in the 1970s. The Taliban's return to power in 2021 cast further doubt on the future of any surviving tourism industry. Surprisingly, a quick scroll through social media suggests that not only has tourism survived, but it has also boomed in its own extraordinarily niche way.

 

 

Influencers enthusiastically promote Afghanistan as a travel destination, showcasing glistening lakes, mountainous passes, and bustling markets. "Five reasons why Afghanistan should be your next trip," they gush, while others declare, "Afghanistan hasn’t been this safe in 20 years," posing next to the vast chasms left behind by the destruction of the Bamiyan Buddhas more than 20 years ago. Behind these sunny claims and glamorous videos, questions arise about the risks these travelers are taking and who this burgeoning industry is truly helping—a struggling population or a regime keen to shift the narrative in its favor?

 

 

"It is very ironic to see those videos on TikTok where there is a Taliban guide and Taliban official giving tickets to tourists to visit the [site of the] destruction of the Buddhas," points out Dr. Farkhondeh Akbari, whose family fled Afghanistan during the first Taliban regime in the 1990s. "These are the people who destroyed the Buddhas."

 

Sascha Heeney's list of countries visited does not initially sound like ideal holiday destinations, yet that is precisely why she and thousands of others are drawn to them. Afghanistan's appeal lies in its rawness, offering an experience far removed from five-star resorts and thus almost entirely unique. "It is just raw," says Heeney, a part-time travel guide from Brighton, UK. "You don’t get much rawer than there. That can be attractive if you want to see real life."

 

 

The Taliban, despite their reputation for being suspicious and hostile towards outsiders, particularly Westerners, are seen posing—albeit uncomfortably—alongside tourists. The answer lies in economics. Isolated internationally, under widespread sanctions, and unable to access funds given to Afghanistan's former government, the Taliban need money. Tourists, whose numbers have risen from just 691 in 2021 to over 7,000 last year, bring it. Most tourists join tours offered by international companies, providing a peek at the "real Afghanistan" for a few thousand dollars.

 

 

Mohammad Saeed, head of the Taliban government's Tourism Directorate in Kabul, dreams of Afghanistan becoming a tourist hotspot, particularly targeting the Chinese market with the backing "of the Elders." Afghan tour guide Rohullah, who started leading groups three years ago, notes that tourism creates jobs and opportunities. After "the change" in 2021, he switched from working for the Afghan finance ministry to becoming a tour guide, a decision he has not regretted. The growing number of tourists ensures a steady demand for drivers and local guides. It's no surprise to see young men attending Taliban-approved hospitality classes in Kabul, eager to take advantage of this burgeoning industry. "We expect much for this year," Rohullah says. "This is a peaceful time—it was not possible to travel to all parts of Afghanistan before, but for now, it really is possible."

 

 

However, the killing of three Spanish tourists and an Afghan at a market in Bamiyan in May by the Islamic State-affiliated ISK militant group, which targeted foreigners, underscores the ongoing dangers. The British Foreign Office continues to advise against all travel to the country, which remains a target for attacks. ISK carried out 45 attacks in 2023 alone, according to the Combating Terrorism Center at West Point.

 

 

Part of Afghanistan's increased security is due to the Taliban's control, as they were responsible for much of the violence during the 20-year war following the US invasion. In the first three months of 2021, the UN attributed more than 40% of the 1,783 civilian casualties to the Taliban. US-led Afghan government forces were responsible for 25% of the casualties during the same period.

 

Despite the risks, Heeney and her group, including two other women, ventured into Afghanistan. Women tourists do face different encounters than men due to the Taliban's strict rules, which have forced Afghan women out of the workplace, secondary education, and even out of Band-e-Amir national park—a stop on many international tours. Yet, female tourists can visit. Rowan Beard, who has been bringing groups to Afghanistan since 2016, explains that while men cannot speak with women, female tourists have the opportunity to hear directly from Afghan women about their experiences.

 

Tourists are briefed on the rules, including how to dress, act, and who they can and cannot talk to. The Taliban, ever-present with their guns, do not speak to female tourists like Heeney. "You have to kind of know the rules and learn the game," she explains. For Heeney, interacting with Afghan women, who were "incredibly happy" to see tourists, was a highlight. The "absolutely lovely," generous, and welcoming people of Afghanistan stood out to her.

 

However, the slick videos posted on social media, which often exclude women from vibrant street scenes, leave a bitter taste for some. "Tourists think it is just this backward part of the world, and they can do whatever they want—we don’t care," says Dr. Akbari, now a postdoctoral researcher at Monash University in Australia. "We just go and enjoy the landscape and get our views and our likes. And this hurts us a lot." She describes it as "unethical tourism with a lack of political and social awareness," allowing the Taliban to gloss over the harsh realities of life under their regime.

 

This tourism provides the Taliban with more than just revenue; it helps to project a new image, one that doesn't highlight the severe restrictions on Afghan women. "My family—they have no male guardian—cannot travel from one district to another district," Dr. Akbari points out. "We are talking about 50% of the population who have no rights... We are talking about a regime which has installed gender apartheid. And yes, there is a humanitarian crisis: I’m happy that tourists might go and buy something from a shop and it might help a local family, but what is the cost of it? It is normalising the Taliban regime."

 

Heeney admits to having a "moral struggle" over the Taliban's position on women before her visit. "Of course, I feel very strongly about their rights—it crossed my mind," she says. "But then as a traveller... I think countries are deserving to go to, and be listened to—we have a skewed idea. I like to see with my own eyes. I can make my own judgment." Beard supports this perspective, advocating for letting people "make their own conclusions rather than there being a one-size-fits-all answer to the experience women have in the country."

 

Marina Novelli, a professor of marketing and tourism at Nottingham University School of Business, warns against the sensationalization of a destination. While travelers may want to send a positive message, it does not mean that problems are nonexistent. Boycotting, she argues, isolates these countries further. Novelli suggests that tourism can be a force for peace and cross-cultural exchange, as seen in Saudi Arabia, where a growing tourism industry has led to a broader role for women in society.

 

Nevertheless, for women like Dr. Akbari, the potential benefits of tourism are overshadowed by the whitewashing of their suffering. "Our pains and our sufferings are being whitewashed, brushed with these fake strokes of security the Taliban want," she says.

 

Afghanistan's tourism boom under the Taliban is a complex and controversial phenomenon. While it provides economic opportunities and a unique travel experience, it also raises ethical concerns and risks normalizing a regime that imposes severe restrictions on half its population. The debate over this burgeoning industry highlights the broader challenges of balancing tourism with political and social awareness.

 

Credit: BBC 2024-07-22

 

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[Tug]

Any Darwin Award hopefuls?

[Emdog]

Do tour packages include stops at stadiums for public beheadings? maybe do a round with religious police, cane women who aren't modest enough?