Good Khao Kaeng

[sabaijai]

Good khao soi is easy to find in Chiang Mai. Good khao kaeng is not. Anyone know any good (ie, central Thai quality) curry rice shops (raan khao kaeng ร้านข้าวแกง), the kind that traditionally open around 7am and close at 2-3pm?

I used to enjoy a raan khao kaeng on the east end of Th Si Donchai but it disappeared a year or two ago. Haven't found any good raan khao kaeng since then. I know two or three restaurants that do good kaeng, but they're fancy places like Phuang Thong or Hongthaew. I also know a few places that do fair southern Thai curries. The only place left where you can get good curries in the morning is Thanin Market, where it's all takeaway.

[Crow Boy]

I've been waiting for someone to answer this thread because I like it also. Either it is no longer available here at the same quality or the people in the know are keeping very quiet about it in case it becomes publicised, with the usual result of increased price and decreased quality.

CB

[TheEmperorOfTheNorth]

Out of interest, what's the fuss about curries that are prepared in quantity, left to sit there for a day (or more if unlucky) and then served cold, over rice? And they're not even cheaper than made-to-order food at small restaurants?

But since you asked, I think Had Yai Choke Dee is an excellent place for Khao Kaeng, on Chang Klan road on the left before you get to Chiang Mai land when coming from the direction of the Night Bazar area.

Not sure if Southern food qualifies, but the shop on the corner of Soi Mor Wong and Charoen Muang is excellent. (Opposite side from where Soi Mor Wong is, this is the third traffic lights on Charoen Muang when you count the ones just after the bridge, the Sayuri intersection is second, and then it's at the Third.

Also Phuket Laikhram, although this I guess is also Southern, but less extreme.

[TheEmperorOfTheNorth]

One more favorite: The Phitsanuloke shop in that new area with shops & restaurants and a Tesco Express on the old Lamphun road, South of Nong Hoi intersection but well before the 'bridge' (overpass) across the Middle Ring.

[sabaijai]

Out of interest, what's the fuss about curries that are prepared in quantity, left to sit there for a day (or more if unlucky) and then served cold, over rice? And they're not even cheaper than made-to-order food at small restaurants?

But since you asked, I think Had Yai Choke Dee is an excellent place for Khao Kaeng, on Chang Klan road on the left before you get to Chiang Mai land when coming from the direction of the Night Bazar area.

Not sure if Southern food qualifies, but the shop on the corner of Soi Mor Wong and Charoen Muang is excellent. (Opposite side from where Soi Mor Wong is, this is the third traffic lights on Charoen Muang when you count the ones just after the bridge, the Sayuri intersection is second, and then it's at the Third.

Also Phuket Laikhram, although this I guess is also Southern, but less extreme.

The good khao kaeng places are open only morning and early afternoon, and most customers eat early to late morning, so both the curries and the rice are still warm, in my experience. I usually touch the sides of pots to check if they're still warm, and if not, I move on.

Phuket Laikhram used to make very good curries, but since the bird flu scare, their khiaw-waan uses fishcake balls rather than chicken, and not very good fishcake either. Also their curries sit around from 8am to 10 pm. I do like their southern-style kaeng som, very hot, and the khua kring, even hotter. I also like their stir-fried dishes and one plate dishes, eg, their seafood khee mao, also the khao phat bo taek (broken fishtrap fried rice).

Yes there are some OK southern curries around, like Phattalung behind Ton Phayom Market. But I'm looking for central Thai. Hat Yai Choke Dee is probably southern, judging from the name (and the neighbourhood, many Muslim Thais) but I will certainly give it a try, thanks.

[sabaijai]

One more favorite: The Phitsanuloke shop in that new area with shops & restaurants and a Tesco Express on the old Lamphun road, South of Nong Hoi intersection but well before the 'bridge' (overpass) across the Middle Ring.

I've seen that place, wondered how it was.

Reminds me, before early bar closings was enforced, there used to be a vendor serving curries in the San Pa Khoi Market from around midnight to 3am, pretty decent stuff and there were tables and chairs where late-night revelers could sit and enjoy the selection. Don't know if they're still there or not.

[TheEmperorOfTheNorth]

Yes there are some OK southern curries around, like Phattalung behind Ton Phayom Market. But I'm looking for central Thai. Hat Yai Choke Dee is probably southern, judging from the name (and the neighbourhood, many Muslim Thais) but I will certainly give it a try, thanks.

Umm, yes they have some Southern dishes, though it doesn't feel as hard-core Southern as the place near Ton Payom you mentioned, or the one opposite Soi Mor Wong. But aside from some Southern curries, they also have a whole lot of central Thai dishes, probably the majority is central Thai food.

The owners are probably Chinese-Thai, definitely not Muslim. (There's a reasonable Muslim place next door though, called Suthisinee or similar)

[TheEmperorOfTheNorth]

And then there's the very long running place on Charoeng Muang just East of the Shell Gas station, opposite to where Pandora and the defunct cinema is. Diagonally opposite the Volkswagen dealer I think. There's two places right next to each other, I think the one with the Kafae Boran coffee stall in front is best.