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Posted
Two Brothers

twobros.jpg

sorry guys if this has already been said, I did look throught the forum and could not find a result.

Where can you get a two brothers exhaust for the ER6n In Thailand? and how much are they???

cheers for the replys....

a great vid of it in action for you guys

Posted
Two Brothers

twobros.jpg

sorry guys if this has already been said, I did look throught the forum and could not find a result.

Where can you get a two brothers exhaust for the ER6n In Thailand? and how much are they???

cheers for the replys....

a great vid of it in action for you guys

Yes that looks like our Tony.

Posted
Two Brothers

twobros.jpg

sorry guys if this has already been said, I did look throught the forum and could not find a result.

Where can you get a two brothers exhaust for the ER6n In Thailand? and how much are they???

cheers for the replys....

a great vid of it in action for you guys

this one looks good too

or if you are into bling

bigger than stock with a funky promo video with some Daft punk jam

Posted
Where can you get one of those gold chains please?

WOW!

LOL- there are a few companies that make high quality colored chains- DID, EK and Tsubaki are a few that come to mind.

EKColoredChains.jpg

Ooooh- I just found the PERFECT chain for AnthonyR1-

PinkChain.jpg

:D:D:D:)

Happy Trails!

Tony

Looks like one of those green ones then??????????

Posted

Also going to spray the sliders I got from Tony matt black to match the frame of the new bike.

Should then not stand out so much when I fit them.

Will post pics soon.

Let the good times roll. :):D

Posted

Had a re-think about spraying the sliders matt black. I've just been to the dealer to have a look at a bike and realised that the frame on the 2010 model is gloss black. Apart from that there were other ancileries which were similar in colour to the sliders. So, I shall save myself a job and keep the sliders original.

Posted

I had the unfortunate chance to try out my ABS today. I'm in the left lane of two lanes, cars/ trucks pack the right lane; young, helmetless and clueless Somchai is driving slowly along on his Honda Dream on the right side of my lane directly in front of me. My only option past is to undertake him on the left. Of course he decides it's time to beer up and pulls left across in front of me, no signal of course. I panic brake and drift left to avoid him which puts me into the sand covered asphalt. Both front and rear ABS kick in. I manage to stay up. Somchai gives me a surprised look as we nearly come together. Also proving I really need that 2 Bros. exhaust!! I also need to slow down. The 650R is so agile and forgiving, and the Battlax tires so sticky, it can lead to overconfidence.

Posted
I had the unfortunate chance to try out my ABS today. I'm in the left lane of two lanes, cars/ trucks pack the right lane; young, helmetless and clueless Somchai is driving slowly along on his Honda Dream on the right side of my lane directly in front of me. My only option past is to undertake him on the left. Of course he decides it's time to beer up and pulls left across in front of me, no signal of course. I panic brake and drift left to avoid him which puts me into the sand covered asphalt. Both front and rear ABS kick in. I manage to stay up. Somchai gives me a surprised look as we nearly come together. Also proving I really need that 2 Bros. exhaust!! I also need to slow down. The 650R is so agile and forgiving, and the Battlax tires so sticky, it can lead to overconfidence.

PHEW!

So glad you didn't drop it, well done and yes yer right what you say at the end.

Live to fight another day.

PHEW!

Posted
I had the unfortunate chance to try out my ABS today. I'm in the left lane of two lanes, cars/ trucks pack the right lane; young, helmetless and clueless Somchai is driving slowly along on his Honda Dream on the right side of my lane directly in front of me. My only option past is to undertake him on the left. Of course he decides it's time to beer up and pulls left across in front of me, no signal of course. I panic brake and drift left to avoid him which puts me into the sand covered asphalt. Both front and rear ABS kick in. I manage to stay up. Somchai gives me a surprised look as we nearly come together. Also proving I really need that 2 Bros. exhaust!! I also need to slow down. The 650R is so agile and forgiving, and the Battlax tires so sticky, it can lead to overconfidence.

Wow! First report of ABS in action- and it sounds like it performed the way it's supposed to. Very happy to hear it helped you avoid a potentially ugly accident!

I've been so busy with work I've not had time to get out and try emergency braking on the Ninja 650R yet. So far the only time my ABS kicked in was in Khao Yai when I was braking over a speed bump. I think the rear tire lost contact so the ABS decided to kick in even though it really wasn't needed. Truth be said I wasn't expecting it and it weirded me out a bit as I've never experienced ABS on a bike before.

A loud exhaust will definitely help to wake up the sleeping Somchai's. They ALWAYS hear me coming :)

Ride On!

Tony

Posted
I had the unfortunate chance to try out my ABS today. I'm in the left lane of two lanes, cars/ trucks pack the right lane; young, helmetless and clueless Somchai is driving slowly along on his Honda Dream on the right side of my lane directly in front of me. My only option past is to undertake him on the left. Of course he decides it's time to beer up and pulls left across in front of me, no signal of course. I panic brake and drift left to avoid him which puts me into the sand covered asphalt. Both front and rear ABS kick in. I manage to stay up. Somchai gives me a surprised look as we nearly come together. Also proving I really need that 2 Bros. exhaust!! I also need to slow down. The 650R is so agile and forgiving, and the Battlax tires so sticky, it can lead to overconfidence.

Glad you kept the rubberside down Scuba :)

The Ninja is such a faired ride I find myself at 100+ in heavy traffic far to often. In slippers, shorts and tshirt. I really need to slow down. Tryed the rear ABS the other day, and it does not enterfere before needed. Good. Very hard pulses, not smooth, but thats ok on a bike.

Posted

This is a bit OT but how did you guys break in your ER-6n or Ninja 650Rs?

The guy in the Kawa shop said about the D-Tracker: Ride it as hard as you like, and come back after 1000km. Try to use all gears in the beginning. The D-Tracker was fine after I did just that. No performance issues. I have a feeling he'll say the same thing about the ER-6n.

What did you guys do and why?

Posted
This is a bit OT but how did you guys break in your ER-6n or Ninja 650Rs?

The guy in the Kawa shop said about the D-Tracker: Ride it as hard as you like, and come back after 1000km. Try to use all gears in the beginning. The D-Tracker was fine after I did just that. No performance issues. I have a feeling he'll say the same thing about the ER-6n.

What did you guys do and why?

Check out this thread, much discussion starting on page 11: http://www.thaivisa.com/forum/Kawasaki-Er6...html&st=250

Posted
This is a bit OT but how did you guys break in your ER-6n or Ninja 650Rs?

The guy in the Kawa shop said about the D-Tracker: Ride it as hard as you like, and come back after 1000km. Try to use all gears in the beginning. The D-Tracker was fine after I did just that. No performance issues. I have a feeling he'll say the same thing about the ER-6n.

What did you guys do and why?

so far 400km with max 8000 rpm and soft brakings. never keep constant speed or rpm. max 70% throttle.

at 500 km its time for 100%. then change oil and filter at 1000 km.

when bike leaves factory nothing fits 100%. some parts are too tight. takes like 500 km to adjust. everything feels better now compared to first week, engine, gear, clutch, tyres, brakes

Posted
This is a bit OT but how did you guys break in your ER-6n or Ninja 650Rs?

The guy in the Kawa shop said about the D-Tracker: Ride it as hard as you like, and come back after 1000km. Try to use all gears in the beginning. The D-Tracker was fine after I did just that. No performance issues. I have a feeling he'll say the same thing about the ER-6n.

What did you guys do and why?

so far 400km with max 8000 rpm and soft brakings. never keep constant speed or rpm. max 70% throttle.

at 500 km its time for 100%. then change oil and filter at 1000 km.

when bike leaves factory nothing fits 100%. some parts are too tight. takes like 500 km to adjust. everything feels better now compared to first week, engine, gear, clutch, tyres, brakes

Which reminds me, check all your screws and bolts. I had both bolts come off holding the very lowest part of the fairing on, just under each foot.

Posted
This is a bit OT but how did you guys break in your ER-6n or Ninja 650Rs?

The guy in the Kawa shop said about the D-Tracker: Ride it as hard as you like, and come back after 1000km. Try to use all gears in the beginning. The D-Tracker was fine after I did just that. No performance issues. I have a feeling he'll say the same thing about the ER-6n.

What did you guys do and why?

so far 400km with max 8000 rpm and soft brakings. never keep constant speed or rpm. max 70% throttle.

at 500 km its time for 100%. then change oil and filter at 1000 km.

when bike leaves factory nothing fits 100%. some parts are too tight. takes like 500 km to adjust. everything feels better now compared to first week, engine, gear, clutch, tyres, brakes

Which reminds me, check all your screws and bolts. I had both bolts come off holding the very lowest part of the fairing on, just under each foot.

^ That's funny- same thing happened to a friend of mine on his new Ninja 650R last week- one of the lower fairing bolts on the right side fell off somewhere- fortunately there are enough redundant bolts that it didn't really matter.

I'm a believer in the hard break in method- ride hard through all gears with lots of engine braking and change oil and filter before 100km. Most the the break in occurs in the first 50-100 km anyway. Don't 'lug' the engine or redline during the first 100km; after the first oil and filter change ride hard to 1000km but still avoid lugging the engine or too much time at redline, after 1000km switch to synthetic or semi-synthetic and let her rip - no worries. This is how I broke in my Ninja 250R and it gave me 13,000 km of trouble free fun and I hear the current owner is up to 20,000 km with no problems. Same for my ER6n- broke her in hard and 17,000 km later she's still a happy camper. (stomps all over my Ninja 650R in fact...)

This is an excellent article by a veteran race bike mechanic that explains much better than I ever could about the benefits of doing a hard break in: http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

BreakInF3Pistons.jpg

Can you guess which piston above was broken in hard? :)

Ride On!

Tony

Posted
What do you mean by 'lug' the engine ?

lug

  1. To cause (an engine, for example) to run poorly or hesitate: If you drive too slowly in third gear, you'll lug the engine.

Basically "lugging" an engine is riding with the RPMs below the engine's optimal (or most efficient) power band. You end up overloading the engine to the point where engine is not revving high enough to make sufficient power. Like "cruising" around on a sport bike at 2000rpm in 4th gear and giving it gas.

If you take a look at your engine's Torque-HP/RPM curves you'll see the left most point where it peaks or levels out. When you're accelerating you should be at an RPM that puts you to the right of that point on the curve. If you're not, you're lugging the engine, identified by pre-ignition/pinging (BAD for your engine!) and lack of roll-on power.

I think you Brits may have a different definition for "lug" don't ya? :D:D:) Hopefully the above definitions make sense though- what would you call this in British English?

Happy Trails!

Tony

Posted
What do you mean by 'lug' the engine ?

lug

  1. To cause (an engine, for example) to run poorly or hesitate: If you drive too slowly in third gear, you'll lug the engine.

Basically "lugging" an engine is riding with the RPMs below the engine's optimal (or most efficient) power band. You end up overloading the engine to the point where engine is not revving high enough to make sufficient power. Like "cruising" around on a sport bike at 2000rpm in 4th gear and giving it gas.

If you take a look at your engine's Torque-HP/RPM curves you'll see the left most point where it peaks or levels out. When you're accelerating you should be at an RPM that puts you to the right of that point on the curve. If you're not, you're lugging the engine, identified by pre-ignition/pinging (BAD for your engine!) and lack of roll-on power.

I think you Brits may have a different definition for "lug" don't ya? :D:D:) Hopefully the above definitions make sense though- what would you call this in British English?

Happy Trails!

Tony

Yeah must be an American term. I 'm familiar with it, and LivinLos has forgotten more about bikes than I will ever know. :D

Posted

I am going for the soft break in as the manual says up to 500kms dont go over 4000 revs and then up to 7000 revs until 1000kms.

Kawasaki Mityon Pattaya phoned today to say I can pick it up, arhhhhhhh! I wasn't ready so will pick it up tomorrow after work.

Will post pics.

Took my sliders down for them to fit though and they did it while I was trying to choose some riding bottoms, jacket gloves, boots etc. couldnt decide so bought nothing.

Any recommendations?

They also gave me a free manual ro read so that I could read about the bike before I pick it up tomorrow.

They asked me if I wanted that small screen on the front but it was 6800 baht, errrrrrrr no thanks.

Won't sleep tonight! :):D:D:D:D:D:D:D:P:P

Posted

Lugging an engine new or old isn't good for them, that's why there is a gearbox attached!

Modern engines don't need to be babied. Just don't thrash em when they cold.

Posted

Picked up the beauty today... jesus H christ what a difference 50hp makes... that thing just flies off at the lightest tug on the gas.

Unfortunately the proper break in will have to be done tomorrow, it was too late today. But I noticed on the way from the dealer to the hotel that the engine gets extremely hot. It felt hot. And the fan came on as soon as I stopped. Hoping that's normal... I remember reading something about a hot engine in this thread, will have to look for that...

Posted
Picked up the beauty today... that thing just flies off at the lightest tug on the gas.

All relative, try a 100+hp machine and its the same quantum leap. And then take a ZX10, R1 or Hayabusa for a spin. Never enough, never enough.....

But I noticed on the way from the dealer to the hotel that the engine gets extremely hot. It felt hot. And the fan came on as soon as I stopped. Hoping that's normal... I remember reading something about a hot engine in this thread, will have to look for that...

Normal. Unfortunately a lot of wasted energy goes into producing heat. Just pray in April the red lights don't stay red too long.

Posted

100km break in done, did the hard break in to the best of my ability - according to the website tony linked to (and which is all over Google). Some questions remain, but I guess the main points are all gears 1 - 4, full load at all times, and no redlining. And proper warmed up engine. I tried gears 5 and 6 too to make sure they're there but putting load on these would require speeds way past safe street levels. E.g. past 140.

The best way seemed to be what the website suggests, short acceleration bursts followed by deceleration. Hard acceleration in 2nd, 3rd, and 4th gear goes past 100 / 140 very quickly, after all. Of course you look like an idiot doing either full throttle or nothing at all, with hardly any in-between. But OK. :)

It was hard work but a lot of fun too, and apologies to other traffic on the canal road. The canal road is great, BTW - not much traffic, nice long curves...

Posted
100km break in done, did the hard break in to the best of my ability - according to the website tony linked to (and which is all over Google). Some questions remain, but I guess the main points are all gears 1 - 4, full load at all times, and no redlining. And proper warmed up engine. I tried gears 5 and 6 too to make sure they're there but putting load on these would require speeds way past safe street levels. E.g. past 140.

The best way seemed to be what the website suggests, short acceleration bursts followed by deceleration. Hard acceleration in 2nd, 3rd, and 4th gear goes past 100 / 140 very quickly, after all. Of course you look like an idiot doing either full throttle or nothing at all, with hardly any in-between. But OK. :)

It was hard work but a lot of fun too, and apologies to other traffic on the canal road. The canal road is great, BTW - not much traffic, nice long curves...

Posted

Been looking into tyre choice in replacing the Roadsmarts, which have never totally convinced me.

Kwackers offered

Dunlop Roadsmarts @ 4,400/5,800

Bridgestone Battleaxes @ 4,500/5,950 (But not available yet... or maybe they are trying to sell off the old lot of Roadsmarts first)

The local guy offered Pirelli Diablos @ >10,000 Baht for the pair (have to go back for a firm quotation)

Any other choices?

I'll probably go for the Bridgestones, once Kawasaki get the supply side working.

Posted
Been looking into tyre choice in replacing the Roadsmarts, which have never totally convinced me.

Kwackers offered

Dunlop Roadsmarts @ 4,400/5,800

Bridgestone Battleaxes @ 4,500/5,950 (But not available yet... or maybe they are trying to sell off the old lot of Roadsmarts first)

The local guy offered Pirelli Diablos @ >10,000 Baht for the pair (have to go back for a firm quotation)

Any other choices?

I'll probably go for the Bridgestones, once Kawasaki get the supply side working.

How many kms have you done?

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