45-0-0 Fertilizer

[track61]

Saw a large stock of this high nitrogen fetilizer in town this morning. Just curious as to what it is used for, corn?

[canuckamuck]

45-0-0 would be a fertilizer with 45% nitrogen, no phoshporous and no potassium.

It is good for increased growth of green material, ie. grass or leaves in general. It is also a component in bomb making, but I believe a higher nitrogen content is preferred.

It will not help so much with flower, root or fruit prodiction. for those you need to increase the other two numbers and add other trace elements.

[jandtaa]

sounds like urea urea info so yeah corn would be one of the crops it is used on

[rice555]

Hello track61, if you will look at the numbers again, it's most likely 46-0-0, not 45-0-0. It's one of the main fertilizers imported into Thailand, it is used when other fertilizers are made,ie: 15-15-15, 12-0-44 ect and and used as a stand alone fertilizer when high 'N' is needed.

rice555

[teletiger]

45-0-0 would be a fertilizer with 45% nitrogen, no phoshporous and no potassium.

It is good for increased growth of green material, ie. grass or leaves in general. It is also a component in bomb making, but I believe a higher nitrogen content is preferred.

It will not help so much with flower, root or fruit prodiction. for those you need to increase the other two numbers and add other trace elements.

I thought Urea (46-0-0) was a fertilizer for leaves AND roots. Hence it's value in grass production. For flowers, fruit, veg, etc a more general NPK is used.

Regards.

[teletiger]

Here's something for Maizefarmer? to ponder. When our corn is planted we use erm.. 14-20-20?. When the corn gets to thigh height, they go in and put weed killer on the underlying vegitation. Then within 3 to 7 days they apply 46-0-0 to 40-60 kilos per rai. Is this a local thing? (because of local soil conditions?) Granted your not here to know our exact soil conditions, but fertilizer applications the other way round would seem to make more sense. How do you do yours?

Things can be cock-eyed here. When we first bought our land, we had a boundry fence erected. Dug the hole, inserted post, tamped down earth and put a concrete plug on top. Nooo, said I. Post in, concrete in and tomorrow we'll come back and tamp down earth round the post. Some of them actually got it, most looked nonplussed.

Regards.

[ozzydom]

45-0-0 would be a fertilizer with 45% nitrogen, no phoshporous and no potassium.

It is good for increased growth of green material, ie. grass or leaves in general. It is also a component in bomb making, but I believe a higher nitrogen content is preferred.

It will not help so much with flower, root or fruit prodiction. for those you need to increase the other two numbers and add other trace elements.

I thought Urea (46-0-0) was a fertilizer for leaves AND roots. Hence it's value in grass production. For flowers, fruit, veg, etc a more general NPK is used.

Regards.

Also great for providing nitrogen ( N ) for the micro-organisms in your compost heap,really speeds up the process .

Just dissolve in water and sprinkle on the heap.

[Foreverford]

Saw a large stock of this high nitrogen fetilizer in town this morning. Just curious as to what it is used for, corn?

This stuff is salt and you just compromise your earth to get green color. great looking results above ground, death to the soil below ground. aged manure and compost give you nitrogen and so much more. The application of these salts is a continuing downward spiral. Put it on get green results, kill the soil, next time you need to put more on for more $ and the same results, green with soil death. More soil death, more 45-0-0 salt, more $, same green results or declining results more... more... So the difficult way is to plan your nitrogen needs in the future and accumulate the organic sources before hand. It is so much simpler to go to any store and buy a bag of salt that's why it's done. I had to haul 15 tons of manure 300 miles to get it to the farm this year as couldn't find any locally in quantity. Hopefully before the rains i can find a similar amount so then i'll have enough for next year. Ideally a couple year stockpile makes for a contented farmer. Maybe the stuff is good for chilies then you'd have salt and pepper.

[teletiger]

Very good point there ford. After all, our "Hippocratic oath" as farmers is to leave the land in a better condition than we found it. Couldn't find 15 tons of kee locally? Where do you live? (add your own wilderness.....here....) Did you try Government house?

Regards.

[Foreverford]

Very good point there ford. After all, our "Hippocratic oath" as farmers is to leave the land in a better condition than we found it. Couldn't find 15 tons of kee locally? Where do you live? (add your own wilderness.....here....) Did you try Government house?

Regards.

The kee from Govt house is abundant but alas it is all poisoned with lies. I live in Hua Hin but the farm is near Prachon Chai. I found a bunch of small dairy farmers in a village that were started by the King's Royal Project near the palace so I managed to get them all to bag up their old stuff and collected it all up and loaded it on a ten wheeler and now it's at the farm. If anyone has a closer source of manure I am in the market and willing to pay a good and fair price for it. I'd like to get another 30 tons if possible.

[jandtaa]

Couldn't agree more FF chemical death plenty of fat cats getting richer by the day while the earth dies screaming !! 

found this interesting article recently:

"The Hidden Truth About Commercial Phosphate Fertilizers.

When I started farming in the mid 50s, South East of San Antonio, The Texas A&M Ag and animal experts both recommended using super phosphate (0-20-0) or bone meal. Tests showed the soil low in phosphorus. Their recommendations proved beneficial to the plants and the grazing animals. 

In the late 60s, on my new farm North East of San Antonio, the use of phosphorus again proved productive. By banding colloidal phosphate in the furrow at planting, I could double production on my fruiting vegetables. The rate applied was two tons per acre. I never at any time noticed micro nutrient deficiency. The soil Ph on the vegetable farm was from 7.3 to 8.3, depending on where and when the testing was done.

Then, some time during the 70s lawns, shrubs, trees, vegetables and flowers in San Antonio started yellowing from the lack of micronutrients. The problem was found to be iron, zinc and manganese being tied up by phosphate. The extension service started putting out bulletins telling everyone to stop using phosphate. 

I never experienced these problems. But then, I had never used the new triple super phosphate that was now on the market. I asked one of the agricultural extension agents if the new 0-46-0 triple super phosphate could be causing all the problems. He thought for a moment then mentioned that the timing correlated perfectly but he never found anyone to agree.

On my own, I did several tests. I used plants highly susceptible to iron colorosus. I planted some in pure colloidal phosphate, some in pure rock phosphate and another bunch in soil that I applied the equivalent of 10,800 lbs per acre of the old style 0-20-0 super phosphate. All of the plants were fertilized with bat guano, which has 10-3-1 (N-P-K) all grew normal, showing no deficiencies. I strongly believed the problem to be the new Triple Super Phosphate. But no one, either from A&M, USDA or the fertilizer industry would or could give me an answer.

An elderly friend that had worked for large fertilizer companies was visiting me one day. I asked him for an honest answer to my suggestion that the new 0-46-0 could be causing all the yellowing? 

After a long pause he answered. You are absolutely right but you are not supposed to know that. He explained that the fertilizer manufactures made that discovery but they kept it a secret and all agreed to stop selling and making the 0-20-0, type of phosphate. This also prevented growers from discovering the problem by comparison.

To make 0-20-0, rock phosphate is treated with sulfuric acid to make calcium phosphate (0-20-0) and calcium sulphate (gypsum); these are two natural products that seldom caused any problems. 

To make 0-46-0, rock phosphate is treated with phosphoric acid. With this, much higher phosphate content, much higher N-P-K fertilizer formulas can be made. Less needs to be used. And it sells for a higher price with much better profits. 

My elderly friend explained that, when used, 0-46-0 is laying naked in the soil and looking for something to marry up with. It bonds up with zinc, iron and manganese then the plants can’t assimilate them. 

Evidently, this knowledge is well protected because to this day the agricultural agents are all telling gardeners and horticulturists to stop using phosphate fertilizers and manure for three to five years. Another problem, some agricultural agents claim, is that the phosphate is causing lakes and streams to grow too much algae.

I can’t understand their reasoning. Manure has been used for centuries without causing soil problems. However, if raw manure washes into lakes it will grow algae because it is a complete fertilizer. 

The fertilizer industry has learned to beef up their high quality phosphate fertilizer products with extra zinc, iron and manganese to help overcome the problems in the landscape. Also, phosphate is not known to leach from the soil, it only moves with the soil. It can’t get into lakes unless placed there or from soil erosion. Phosphate alone will not grow algae; nitrogen must also be present. 

For answers I did some research. I got virgin soil from a location that has never been plowed or fertilized. I naturally air-dried and well homogenized this soil so I could get identical samples to send to numerous testing labs. I sent seven in all, two to Texas A&M soil test department and five to other labs around the U.S.

The two A&M test results showed excessive soil phosphate with instructions to not add any phosphate fertilizer or manure to the soil for 3 to 4 years. The other five labs showed soil phosphate low to medium and gave recommended application rates. 

Why are the A&M test results so much different from the other five labs? Something is definitely wrong here. 

1. The algae in the lakes should be attacked by stopping erosion and the over use of highly soluble forms of nitrogen fertilizer. 

2. The fertilizer companies should be honest with their customers. 

3. Texas A&M soil testing department should get together with the private testing industry to end mistrust and better serve gardeners and farmers. 

4. The fertilizer salesman should be honest and better educated. 

5. More and proper research needs to be done and shared with the farmers and gardeners. 

6. The agricultural agents should keep up with all private and public, research. 

7. All educational institutions need to teach more about Nature and how she operates.

Malcolm Beck - May 2003"

good luck with your quest for manure, luckily with just a couple of rai I can pick up all I need locally with the trusty "rot khaen" on the back of the bike !! Admire your dedication to the cause driving 300 !! Hats off sir !! cant you just take it from Hua Hin up to the farm with you ?? sounds like the bullshit is flowing freely down that way at the moment  !! LOL !! 

regards Jandtaa

[Foreverford]

Couldn't agree more FF chemical death plenty of fat cats getting richer by the day while the earth dies screaming !!

found this interesting article recently:

"The Hidden Truth About Commercial Phosphate Fertilizers.

When I started farming in the mid 50s, South East of San Antonio, The Texas A&M Ag and animal experts both recommended using super phosphate (0-20-0) or bone meal. Tests showed the soil low in phosphorus. Their recommendations proved beneficial to the plants and the grazing animals.

In the late 60s, on my new farm North East of San Antonio, the use of phosphorus again proved productive. By banding colloidal phosphate in the furrow at planting, I could double production on my fruiting vegetables. The rate applied was two tons per acre. I never at any time noticed micro nutrient deficiency. The soil Ph on the vegetable farm was from 7.3 to 8.3, depending on where and when the testing was done.

Then, some time during the 70s lawns, shrubs, trees, vegetables and flowers in San Antonio started yellowing from the lack of micronutrients. The problem was found to be iron, zinc and manganese being tied up by phosphate. The extension service started putting out bulletins telling everyone to stop using phosphate.

I never experienced these problems. But then, I had never used the new triple super phosphate that was now on the market. I asked one of the agricultural extension agents if the new 0-46-0 triple super phosphate could be causing all the problems. He thought for a moment then mentioned that the timing correlated perfectly but he never found anyone to agree.

On my own, I did several tests. I used plants highly susceptible to iron colorosus. I planted some in pure colloidal phosphate, some in pure rock phosphate and another bunch in soil that I applied the equivalent of 10,800 lbs per acre of the old style 0-20-0 super phosphate. All of the plants were fertilized with bat guano, which has 10-3-1 (N-P-K) all grew normal, showing no deficiencies. I strongly believed the problem to be the new Triple Super Phosphate. But no one, either from A&M, USDA or the fertilizer industry would or could give me an answer.

An elderly friend that had worked for large fertilizer companies was visiting me one day. I asked him for an honest answer to my suggestion that the new 0-46-0 could be causing all the yellowing?

After a long pause he answered. You are absolutely right but you are not supposed to know that. He explained that the fertilizer manufactures made that discovery but they kept it a secret and all agreed to stop selling and making the 0-20-0, type of phosphate. This also prevented growers from discovering the problem by comparison.

To make 0-20-0, rock phosphate is treated with sulfuric acid to make calcium phosphate (0-20-0) and calcium sulphate (gypsum); these are two natural products that seldom caused any problems.

To make 0-46-0, rock phosphate is treated with phosphoric acid. With this, much higher phosphate content, much higher N-P-K fertilizer formulas can be made. Less needs to be used. And it sells for a higher price with much better profits.

My elderly friend explained that, when used, 0-46-0 is laying naked in the soil and looking for something to marry up with. It bonds up with zinc, iron and manganese then the plants can’t assimilate them.

Evidently, this knowledge is well protected because to this day the agricultural agents are all telling gardeners and horticulturists to stop using phosphate fertilizers and manure for three to five years. Another problem, some agricultural agents claim, is that the phosphate is causing lakes and streams to grow too much algae.

I can’t understand their reasoning. Manure has been used for centuries without causing soil problems. However, if raw manure washes into lakes it will grow algae because it is a complete fertilizer.

The fertilizer industry has learned to beef up their high quality phosphate fertilizer products with extra zinc, iron and manganese to help overcome the problems in the landscape. Also, phosphate is not known to leach from the soil, it only moves with the soil. It can’t get into lakes unless placed there or from soil erosion. Phosphate alone will not grow algae; nitrogen must also be present.

For answers I did some research. I got virgin soil from a location that has never been plowed or fertilized. I naturally air-dried and well homogenized this soil so I could get identical samples to send to numerous testing labs. I sent seven in all, two to Texas A&M soil test department and five to other labs around the U.S.

The two A&M test results showed excessive soil phosphate with instructions to not add any phosphate fertilizer or manure to the soil for 3 to 4 years. The other five labs showed soil phosphate low to medium and gave recommended application rates.

Why are the A&M test results so much different from the other five labs? Something is definitely wrong here.

1. The algae in the lakes should be attacked by stopping erosion and the over use of highly soluble forms of nitrogen fertilizer.

2. The fertilizer companies should be honest with their customers.

3. Texas A&M soil testing department should get together with the private testing industry to end mistrust and better serve gardeners and farmers.

4. The fertilizer salesman should be honest and better educated.

5. More and proper research needs to be done and shared with the farmers and gardeners.

6. The agricultural agents should keep up with all private and public, research.

7. All educational institutions need to teach more about Nature and how she operates.

Malcolm Beck - May 2003"

good luck with your quest for manure, luckily with just a couple of rai I can pick up all I need locally with the trusty "rot khaen" on the back of the bike !! Admire your dedication to the cause driving 300 !! Hats off sir !! cant you just take it from Hua Hin up to the farm with you ?? sounds like the bullshit is flowing freely down that way at the moment !! LOL !!

regards Jandtaa

Well done Jandtaa you always have some very educational and well presented ideas. I'm sure I could get nearly all my manure needs if i lived at the farm, thru livestock and having a shovel in the back of the pick-up. I'm full of sh_t because I've been hauling it for my entire life. I just can't get the Thais motivated to try and do the extra bit it takes to move to organic. basically it is due to laziness as I've started projects for them and footed all the bills (that;s always the reason nothing can be done because it's too expensive or they don't have the money) and they abandon it if there isn't nearly instantaneous results to keep them stimulated. It is truly "Amazing Thailand" to see entire villages with running water and the complete lack of a small family truck garden or even a small spice garden. I just don't get it at all every farm I've ever been on has the truck garden and fruit trees to feed the family but here it is truly the oddity and exception instead of the rule. All you can do is try to lead by example and your place sounds like you a creating a true garden of Eden. Choke dee in all me

[farmerapache]

hi,

i think you better have a look at this website,www.pd-im-export-thailand.com

we use this product also on our plantations (animal corn) and we have way better results than with other fertilizers,and it's organic too,no chemicals!

and cheeper!

[jandtaa]

Cheers for the kind words FF !! I wasn't referring to you being full of shit my learned friend (although if the cap fits...as they say) just that HH is in the news a bit recently and something definitely stinks !!

keep on trucking Jandtaa

[jandtaa]

Farmer Apache

Abstract

The effectiveness of Terralyt plus was compared with conventional fertilizer on the growth and dry matter yields of okra (Abelmoschus esculentus) and tomato (Lycopercion esculentus) in a greenhouse study at the Institute of Agricultural Research and Training Ibadan. The treatments consisted of equivalent of 100 kg N ha-1 of NPK 20-10-10 fertilizer, 5 tonnes poultry manure and 40 ml m-2 of Terralyt plus were applied as full rates and the complementary use of these with Terralyt in two ratios (1 : 1 and ½ : ½ ). The experimental design was randomized complete block. The results showed that tomato and okra gave positive response to terralyt plus. Both Terralyt and fertilizers significantly increased the nutrient (N. P. K. Ca. and Mg) uptake of both crops over the control. In terms of dry matter yields, yield increase ranged from 19–125% in tomato and 13 to 151% in okra over the control. The use of Terralyt alone on tomato was superior control but inferior to other treatments. Whereas, on okra it was almost equally effective as applying full rate of inorganic fertilizer, but inferior to full rate of poultry manure. Therefore, for good crop performance terralyt plus can be used to supplement organic and inorganic fertilizer to enhance soil fertility for crop production.

Keywords: fertilizer application, NPK fertilizer, poultry manure, vegetable crops terralyt plus 

Moor Journal of Agricultural Research Vol. 5(2) 2004: 102-107

Effect of Terralyt plus to marigold cv. Sovereign at Sakhon Nakhon Agricultural Research and Training Center  

Original title ศึกษาผลของสาร Terralyt Plus ต่อคุณภาพของดาวเรืองพันธุ์ Sovereign ณ สถาบันวิจัยและฝึกอบรมการเกษตรสกลนคร

Personal Authors Narong Polwong; Sudarat Sakhunkhu; Ratree Pranakorn(Rajamangala Institute of Technology. Sakhon Nakhon Agricultural Research and Training Center, Sakon Nakhon (Thailand))

Conference 15. RIT Annual Conference, Chiang Mai (Thailand), 12-14 Feb 1998

Publisher Place Bangkok (Thailand)

Publication Date 1998

AGRIS Subj. Cat. Fertilizing

AGROVOC Terms CALENDULA, SOIL AMENDMENTS, YIELDS, SOIL FERTILITY, THAILAND

Language Th

Notes Summaries (En, Th), 1 table

English Abstract Study on "Terralyt plus" effect on Sovereign marigold was conducted at Sakon Nakhon Agricultural Research and Training Center during November 1996 - March 1997. The 4 replication of Randomized in Complete block design with three treatments of 1:1000 Terralyt plus 40 ml/square m: manure 50 gm/plant: 15-15-15 fertilizer 5 gm/plant, 1:1000 Terralyt plus 40 ml/square m: 15-15-15 fertilizer 5 gm/plant, and 15-15-15 fertilizer 5 gm/plant manure 50 gm/plant. The result that; There were not significant different in flower diameter, flower axis length and harvesting date from Sovereign marigold that treated by three treatment in one crop season growing. Further study should be conducted for further information of Terralyt plus effect in long term.

Type Summary, Conference, Non-Conventional

Collation p. 260-264

Availability TNAI (Thailand) 

Availability number *TH

Additional info of resource Proceedings of the 15th Rajamangala Institute of Technology annual conference: V.1 Plant Science, Rajamangala Institute of Technology, Bangkok (Thailand). Research and Development Inst..- Bangkok (Thailand), 1998.- p. 260-264

Appears to be a supplementary soil conditioner rather than a fertiliser in its own right. I'm always interested in organic solutions, pardon the pun, I usually just use seaweed extract or kelp meal as a conditioner for my soil ( no secret formula and cheap as chips )  Seaweed also contains up to 20 minerals including the electrolytes; sodium, chlorine, potassium and magnesium vital for water uptake (sounding familiar yet). Check out this link for indepth info how seaweed acts as a soil conditioner I see from your profile you're in Saraburi as is the westerner who has the distribution rights to this product in Thailand.Do you reckon if you see the bloke you could get hold of a free sample for me to field test ?? I could then sing its praises on the organic forum hel_l I could become an agent and sell the stuff $$!! 

Do you have any further info on the stuff other than lots of commercial ad's and the couple of inconclusive articles I found after a google search

kindest regards Jandtaa 

Edited March 15, 2009 by jandtaa

[Maizefarmer]

A short story about N type fertilizer ........

45 – 0 – 0 – as others have already noted is Urea, and is used to promote green growth, in turn leading to higher crop yield.

45-0-0 is another way of writing/using the internationally used NPK ratio system – which stands for Nitrogen – Potassium – Phosphurus - always in that order.

The key word here is ratio, or percentage by weight

NPK system can be written as percentages (therefore 45-0-0 is 45% Nitrogen by weight), or it can be written as thirds. The above example is a pretty poor one for illustrative purposes, as there is nothing else in it. A good example would be say 3-1-2 (very common) – it could be written as 6-2-4, or even as 12-4-8.

But it is open to abuse – and is abused in Thailand a lot.

You must know how heavy the bag of fertilser is.

Lets say the above bag of 45-0-0 weighs 100lbs, it means that 45 lbs are Nitrogen, 0 lbs are Potassium and 0 lbs is Phosphorus – which means the rest (55 lbs) is inert or bulk additive with no growth value to it – it is not that you have a high 1/3 percentage of Nitrogen, as in this case you actually have 45%, nearly half the whole bag.

If the bag however weighed 50 lbs, then you would have nearly 100% (or 45lbs) of Nitrogen – very very different to the 100lbs bag above – and you would not be paying for or the inert additive.

So why pack it with inert additive?

Because it is far easier to accurately distribute a larger volume by hand, or through mechanical spreaders, than it is to distribute a concentrated smaller volume over a larger area – and it allows one more scope to correct errors.

So always know the weight of the bag these numbers are written on, and know when you are dealing with a bag illustrating percentage of total weight as opposed to the often misused total weight - in the latter case the bag can weigh anything

Another common confusion - is it Urea or is it Nitrogen? Surely it can’t be both.

To keep it simple: think of Nitrogen as an element, not as gas.

To get it into the soil and be made avalible for plants it needs to be presented in a soluble form that is cheap and easy to produce and transport – and the cheapest and easiest way is to this, is to produce Urea (carbon dioxide and ammonia). In the soil by way of hydrolysation Urea breaks done into Nitrogen and carbon dioxide.

Importance of water when using Nitrogen content fertilser – to stop the Nitrogen then been released as a gas into the atmosphere the soil needs moisture – so ensure the soil is at least damp, or better still, apply it just before, during or as soon as possible after it has rained.

Poor ag practice, in terms of planning and prep has lead to the use of ever higher N content fertilsers in Thailand – to compensate for losses incurred between application rain, or the chance to irrigate.

Thats pretty much all need to know about the stuff.

Edited March 15, 2009 by Maizefarmer