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Barb Wire

Featured Replies

I recently put barb wire on cement posts & the job came out satisfactory. It was for the 3/4 rai top garden.

I just had 45 degree extensions added on our chain link to thwart the thieves (or at least slow them down) Is their a correct way to weld the areas. The bars have a metal strip added to feed the barbed wire through & then hammered tight & tack welded.

This will be on the next rai as well except using galvanized poles with the 45 degree bars pointing outward to eliminate easy access. The part i am having difficulty with is how to keep the wires straight. Or is this just part of the nature of the beast.

The cement posts were a bear but they look straighter than the metal. Anyone know the best way to set up the top of the fence & make it look tight?

Thanks again guys!! I have read every barb wire post already but barb wire really is not my forte.

Check out this link, looking at the "Installing" section. It should give you a little more insight to your problem.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Barbed_wire

When you string wire you need to put it under a lot of "tension". About 250 lbs/sq inch for each line at a 200m run. Less for shorter runs. Use a "wire tensioning tool"if you can. Usually a ratchet which has a strong spring attached. Not sure where you'll find one. The end posts are the key, they need to be very solid and braced. Concrete posts should work, just make sure the end ones are supported with bracing. Lots of info on the web for that.

Don't "weld" the wire, Heat weakens it. Don't try to wrap it around corners at the ends either, it'll sag badly. If you are using a standard 45 degree arm, hold in place with a wire wrap or bend the tab down but not tight. Either start at the top or bottom. I always thought working the bottom one first was the safest. You'll want to make each wire have the same tension so what ever you do for the first one do for each the same. And you tension from one of the ends not between the posts. Securing the wire at the other end. I use to pluck each one like a guitar until they sounded the same. Use gloves too.

Good luck....

  • Author

I forgot to mention the galvanized posts are at 3 meter lengths & the uprights are installed on each post.I have a feeling my flaw may have been in thinking the wire could be tacked in place as the cement posts came out neater in appearance. This is a picture of the fence I copied.

post-32440-1240085642.jpg

  • Author

Would the correct way to put the wire up be to put through the metal eyelet & wrap the ends back onto the wire (only on the ends?) the round Galvanized pipe with a 45 degree Bend will be used on the new fence. This house will be the primary house & I want to make sure I get it right. I plan on doing the same design - run the line through the eyelets wrap the wire around the end pipes (no welds) & then twist the wire(less the barb portion) back onto the the outgoing wire under tension to give it a clean appearance.

If anyone can help me with this I would be stoked. I can see why either concrete or wood is the obvious choice.

Thanks again

Barry

post-32440-1240104526_thumb.jpg

post-32440-1240104703_thumb.jpg

Would the correct way to put the wire up be to put through the metal eyelet & wrap the ends back onto the wire (only on the ends?) the round Galvanized pipe with a 45 degree Bend will be used on the new fence. This house will be the primary house & I want to make sure I get it right. I plan on doing the same design - run the line through the eyelets wrap the wire around the end pipes (no welds) & then twist the wire(less the barb portion) back onto the the outgoing wire under tension to give it a clean appearance.

If anyone can help me with this I would be stoked. I can see why either concrete or wood is the obvious choice.

Thanks again

Barry

You have it correctly. Wrap the wire back on itself but with very tight winds for 6 inches or so. Don't worry if you come across a barb. The "end posts" of your fencing is usually a larger diameter which gives the ends strength without extra bracing. The rest are smaller diameter. On really long runs you'll put a 45 degree support bar between the top of the last post and the bottom of the next post, and then again in the middle. Plus you run a bar along the top. Some do, some don't, it's a cost issue. By doing this it makes the fence stronger, last longer and easier to maintain in the long run. Heres a pic I found that might help.

post-26396-1240112503_thumb.jpg

Nice job can u tell us how much per meter it cost Thanks Bob Laos

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