Temple Hopping

[phetaroi]

My SO and I went temple hopping the past few days in Ang Thong province. Perhaps this may be of interest to a few.

Wat Phinitthammasan: Easily located in Amphoe Pa Mok, just south of the village, on the west side of route 309. Located on the east bank of Chao Phraya River. It is from this temple that you can sometimes take a boat across the Chao Phraya River to Wat Pa Mok, although the boat apparently operates infrequently now. The wiharn dates to the Ayutthaya period, but was closed. The temple has a very large seated Buddha that is made of plaster in the posture of subduing Mara, and is in Chiang Saen style; it is enshrined in the open, so very noticeable from the highway. Although not many monks, the one we did meet was quite friendly and more than happy to chat. Perhaps worth a quick stop for a photo of the large Buddha image.

Wat Ratchapaksi: Located on wast bank of Chao Phraya River, also along route 309 (the Ang Thong-Ayutthaya route). 3-4 km to S of Ang Thong. There is a large reclining Buddha here, although because of the open-sided building it is in, it is not particularly attractive. The image dates to before or during the Ayutthaya period. Another Buddha image dates to 1620, was once located closer to the river, but moved to its present building in 1947. The wiharn dates to 1959. We had a wonderful experience here. A group of old Thai people were examing an old boat that was being stored in an open-sided warehouse. The one man...aged 93...was once one of the oarsmen back in the 1930s. One of the other men in the group was a sort of temple committeeman, and was happy to chat about the temple. The temple is also attempting to be friendly to the general public, inlcuding farangs. A group of about a dozen women were making traditional khanoms (deserts) from egg, and we were offered free deserts and beverages, and the opportunity to sit and chat with them for about 30 minutes. The monk was quite proud of the murals in the somewhat unattractive wiharn, but he loved showing them to us...primarily about the life of Buddha, with a few scenes of Buddhist heavens and hells.[/size]

Wat Thasutthawat: Also on route 309, about 15 km south of Ang Thong. Sign-posted. On the east bank of Chao Phraya River. This is a wonderful temple to visit. The buildings are relatively new and the grounds very pleasant. In talking to a "committeeman" overseeing the rebuilding of the temple, there were currently no monks living at the temple and they are attempting to attract some. The original temple was constructed in the Ayutthaya period. During the wars with Burma, this site was often the trooping route for the army to cross the Chao Phraya River. Interestingly, this temple is under the royal patronage of Princess Sirindhorn, accounting for the rebuilding going on. A "royal pavilion" stands in the middle of a large pond, somewhat reminiscent of the way some ho trais are built, though not as attractive. The walk-in chedi is currently undergoing extensive renovation, so its Buddha images were wrapped in plastic, but we were invited in to see the progression of the work. In another pavilion to the left of the ubosot are statues of Kings Nareusean and Ekathotsarot; quite nice. Inside the ubosot are some wonderful, modern murals, one of which includes a painting by Princess Sirindhorn. Interestingly, there are many images of the Royal Family throughout the murals. This was really a pleasant temple to visit, and is located right along a klong. Behind the temple is a small village that makes royal dolls, but we didn't have time to visit this time.

Wat Pamok Worawiharn: There are two ways to get to this temple. One is by boat from the rear of Wat Phinitthammasan along route 309. It appears that the little ferry boat rarely operates now, so you need to proceed north along route 309 to the next crossing of the river at the next major intersection, turn left and cross the river, then turn left again a short distance from the river at the obvious village open market and proceed down that good highway. You will see signs. I visited here about 20 years ago, and I remember how charming this temple was. Regrettably, it has lost a great deal of its charm due to cement being pored everywhere and the presence of a huge cement plant just across the river. Nevertheless, it is worth a visit. There are many mae chee (Buddhist nuns) here. There's also a nice selection of amulets to purchase. Snacks, also, along the river. The temple's primary attraction is the 23 meter long gilded reclining Buddha made of brick and plaster. Some consider it to be one of Thailand’s most beautiful, and it was heavily visited by the locals. The reclining Buddha dates from the Sukhothai period. Legend says this Buddha floated along river and sank in front of this temple, and people offered sacrifices to the Buddha before pulling it from river. A more historical story says that due to erosion on the riverbank, in 1728 King Sisanphet III commanded the removal of the Buddha from the riverbank. King Thai Sa invited the Buddha to become enshrined in the new wiharn, after which the old temple was renamed Wat Pa Mok due to the many Mok trees in the vicinity...there appear to be few of trees left. Apparently, King Naresuan stopped here to gather his troops to attack Burma and paid homage to the this reclining Buddha.

Wat Thanon: was way off the beaten path, somewhere along route 3501. Thank goodness my Thai SO could ask directions! The temple dates to 1780. There is a wooden Buddha in standing posture in new wiharn, which is modern with mostly window-glass walls (not yet finished, though open). Legend says that a raft with the Buddha image floated along river and stopped in front of this temple and did not go further. The abbot found the engraved wooden Buddha in the raft and offered sacrifices to the Buddha before housing him in the temple. People make wishes to the Buddha by placing eggs in front of image. Whoever can make the egg stand will have good luck. While we were there, just about half of the locals were successful in getting an egg to stand on its end. Those who could were so happy! There's a great deal of reconstruction going on here.

Wat Norasing: This place was spooky! There is a very nice and modern monument that was built in 1988 to commemorate the steersman of a royal barge in the reign of King Prachao. He ran into some braches along the river and was executed after the barge was damaged. To get there, take highway 3501. The temple is almost deserted. Several of the buildings are in a near-state of collapse. A new ubosot is being built, though even that project looks suspended. There was at least one monk and several other people living at the temple, but it seemed unfriendly. I really can't recommend a visit at this time. Incidentally, the base of the new ubosot being built is in the shape of a boat.

Wat Khian: In Amphoe Wiset Chai Chan, follow Highway 3454 for 1 km along a klong. Pleasant temple grounds with too many dogs and noisy geese. Inside rather plain ubosot are once-exquisite murals featuring village lifestyles and stories of the Jataka tales. The murals are very badly deteriorated, although some sections are still very clear. Very nice glossy book available for modest donation. Friendly monks who will open the ubosot for you, if you ask.[/size][/font]

Wat Oi: Located on the west bank of Noi River, 2 km from Wat Khian. The temple dates to the Ayutthaya period. The windowless ubosot is quite dark, although they turned on the lights for us. The exterior has nicely styled pillars and the "courtyard" is paved with ceramic tiles and very shady...very nice. During the Ayutthaya period this temple was used as place where oath of allegiance ceremony was held. The principal Buddha image (Luangpho Dam) is made of brass and tin. You can easily walk down to the river, although there is not much to see. Apparently Wat Oi has a home for problem children -- strays, drug addicted, and uncontrollable.

Wat Muang: This temple is large and glitzy (or as my SO said, "a money temple"), but I liked it. It's located along the Ang Thong-Wiset Chai Chan route (3195). You can't miss it...a HUGE seated Buddha image appears to sit among the rice fields. This is an extremely popular temple; it was packed with locals. The ubosot was nice, and surrounded by huge pink stucco lotus petals. Around the ubosot are figures of renowned monks from all over Thailand. The wiharn is all glass on both the interior and exterior, with some great statuary inside. Within the temple compound are figures of heaven and hel_l, a huge statue of Kuan Yin, and life-sized dioramas of Thai historical scenes. At the back of temple is a sort of fish park. Lots of hawking of local products and food here. Well worth a visit, although not for quiet meditation.

Then we headed east toward Issan. We visited Wat Phra Buddhabot, and of course, it was a religious holiday, so it was a very festive scene. Of the thousands of people there, we didn't see a single other farang. Great fun, again a little difficult to meditate or even think due to the hubbub, but worth a visit to see the highly revered Buddha footprint in a stunning mondop. I hope to return during a more quiet time.

We stayed overnight at a lodge up near Khao Yai National Park where we had dinner with part of my SO's family. Then we headed out to near Nakhon Ratchasima, where I met the rest of the family in a very small a humble moo baan. Obviously somewhat poor, but extremely welcoming and quite charming. I was a great hit with the children, some of which probably had never seen a farang.

[sabaijai]

Wat Khun Inthapramun in Ang Thong is also worth a visit for its reclining Buddha and other sculptures and buildings, all in ruins. This is where the annual Likay Festival is held, coming up again next month.

[phetaroi]

Wat Khun Inthapramun in Ang Thong is also worth a visit for its reclining Buddha and other sculptures and buildings, all in ruins. This is where the annual Likay Festival is held, coming up again next month.

Yes, that's on my list, as well. To be honest, we only got to about half the temples I had hoped to see. I admit to being a it of a temple addict, but it's such a great way to experience "popular Buddhism" and meet the locals, as well.