Building Our Pool - From Start To Finish

[chrgrims]

just FYI, i had a closer look at the steel and this main pipe, and the way it is put in a "lane" of concrete makes it not even touch the steel. the steel is supported by many concrete small "cakes" so there is no way for the steel to put pressure on the pipe. I will upload a pic later today.

[chrgrims]

i just finished a meeting with the engineer. The main pipe in the pics is the main drain. the inlets will be in the walls. The dbars are put down with 15cm space in between. There will be 2 layers of steel. The pipe doesnt touch the steel, as you can see from the close up pics. Today he also gave me the sand filter. Altogether a good meeting.

It looks to me like the construction of the foundation is good. Of course I agree with valentine that a shorter pipe is best if this is possible, simplicity is always the preferred solution. The longer pipe might have something to do with where the skimmers and inlets will be put. U-tai showed me a drawing of how the water flows, i have included it here, so those who doesnt know it can learn how the system is working. Either way, its not a big problem, if its a problem at all.

Thanks for the feedback so far, its a great learning experience to get all this info about pressure, pumps, concrete, steel etc.

The upper steel layer has not been put in place yet, but here you can see the concrete cakes and the pipe quite well:

A nice illustration of the water flow:

Cheers, Chr

[Naam]

Today they started with the steel.

it doesn't look like steel to me but more like chickenwire.

[chrgrims]

and u look like a robot, does that mean u r a robot? why dont u ask what the thickness is instead of being so rude.

Edited September 10, 2009 by chrgrims

[chrgrims]

I just measured the steel outside and checked the contract. Its 12mm D-bar most places. some places have 16mm, and there is some 9mm used for other things, not the main foundation.

[apetley]

Nice thread Chr, hope you keep it going and have a straightforward build.

As for klingons they have limited diplomacy skills, your steel looks fine from here.

[cdnvic]

I assume the pipe down the middle is intended as a PVC channel that will contain the actual drain pipe?

I've seen pipes that were laid inside concrete channels (intended to protect the pipe and allow for easier removal in the case that it was warranted) at one pool actually cause more trouble than they solved. The pool was drained during the rainy season and it lifted due to a hydrostatic valve failure. When the pool settled back down it cracked down the middle where the concrete channel was. The engineer we brought in suggested that the pool would have been better off without that channel acting as a fulcrum.

As for it running the length of the pool, this isn't unusual when the pump is located in that direction.

[chrgrims]

Of course i cant be sure that the way they design the foundation is perfect. But at least i can try to describe how the construction really is, so we have a mutual understanding of what is actually being built in our garden:

From what i understand from their explanation, there is nothing more that will cover the pipe, except 2 layers of steel (with supporting concrete "cakes") and then concrete. so the concrete will cover the pipe. in other words, it is a lane under but no space over. the pressure will be on the steel and the concrete will just be around the pipe. So. i dont see any way that the pipe can crack from pressure. To crack the pipe, u would need to apply massive pressure on a very small area (not covered by steel).

I think the plan now is to build it-blocks around in the shape of the frame of the pool, and then pour concrete over the steel and the pipe.

[Ahnsahn]

Musty, i will send u a PM.

....could I also get a copy of the same details that you sent to 'Musty'?

Thanx

[chrgrims]

Some new pics.

I dont know what the structure around the frame will consist of in the end, so try to not make too many conclusions based on these pics. Lets wait until the frame is finished and then we can see.

On a sidenote: i went to the local shop today and looked for pool chemicals: Chlorine (bleach with no additives, 6 % chlorine), baking soda, muriatic acid, and borax. I will get a lot of chemicals from the pool company, but i want to know what is available and where i can get it. I found baking soda, thats it . if anybody knows thai names/brands for these things, its appreciated. I know i can buy it all in a pool shop, but we dont have that, the closest is about 2h drive from here. So, i want to learn what i can use from the local shops. Also, from reading troublefreepool.com, most chemicals at the pool shops are overpriced and some are not necessary.

[chrgrims]

I assume the pipe down the middle is intended as a PVC channel that will contain the actual drain pipe?

I've seen pipes that were laid inside concrete channels (intended to protect the pipe and allow for easier removal in the case that it was warranted) at one pool actually cause more trouble than they solved. The pool was drained during the rainy season and it lifted due to a hydrostatic valve failure. When the pool settled back down it cracked down the middle where the concrete channel was. The engineer we brought in suggested that the pool would have been better off without that channel acting as a fulcrum.

As for it running the length of the pool, this isn't unusual when the pump is located in that direction.

I think i understand more what u mean now. the other pool cracked down the pipe lane horizontally along the length of the pool cause the sides of the foundation gave away toward the earth, correct? yes, i guess this is theoretically possible with our pool too. I would presume it depends on the amount of sand, the firmness of the earth, and the thickness of the concrete. I would also guess this is a rare occurrence. At least u-tai is continuing to use this method after building over 50 pools, so i certainly think and hope not too many have cracked down the middle. .

[cdnvic]

I wouldn't worry about your pool doing the same. The one I talked about actually had a heavy concrete channel (like two short, thick walls) running down the middle which is not the case with yours.

[David006]

Yesterday the company arrived with the first load of materials. On saturday we will make markings on the ground where the pool will be. From this we can "move it around", until we are satisfied. On tuesday we will start digging. Deadline for finish is december 15th, but i think we will be finished before this.

Some details on the pool:

- made of steel and concrete, 25cm thick, with lifetime warranty. 2,5meter concrete around pool. waterstoppers (6") etc is used. the company has provided drawings. i will put them here later if i get permission. the company has made over 50 pools, and i have seen a few of them myself. From what i can see its good work. The owner of the company is an engineer. I will write the name of the company if i get an ok from them.

- the pool is a skimmer pool, 6x12m, 1m-1,5m deep (a straight slope with no edges).

- the tile is Lompang tile (Mook Pra Kay Fah color), handmade.

- sandfilter 36" astralpool, model 00501. without valve.

- pump from astralpool, cv hp 2 II, model 20605. self priming.

- salt water chlorinator from Hurlcon, model vx13t. max chlorine output pr hour 50grams.

- lights 300w from astralpool.

Total cost is 1 mill baht, contract is signed. Payments will be made in increments, the last one week after completion. Price also includes pipes to the pump, and concrete to cover the pipes.

I am an academic from the social sciences, so i dont have much knowledge about pool building. But it will be fun to learn. I will post updates here with pics and all. Please feel free to give feedback!

Here is the garden, before any work has started. The plan is to make the pool 3 meter from the left side of the fence and 15meter from the house (the point where the photo is taken from).

Ouch! price is a bit steep at 1m...you live on a long narrow soi? LOL ( see you coming). A typical pool in Australia is about A$10-20k! Here concrete is the construction material of choice and far cheaper than elsewhere? A friend in Phuket was quoted by the french outfit there for a 12 meter pool, Jacuzzi and cabana at 700k .

Nevertheless good luck and happy pool cleaning..

I have had lights in pools before..pretty but a pain in the butt..last one I put spots on the roof of the house!

[chrgrims]

Price is only part of the equation. There are so many ways to build a pool, and u need to look at materials, location, support, stability of company etc. as many others can attest to, building a pool in thailand isnt as easy as building elsewhere. many projects go wrong. and i dont know how useful it is to compare my contract with a quote from a company in phuket.

I talked with many companies, and some didnt even want to build so far north from Bangkok. Others, like JDpools, i dont really like the way they build their pools. they only give 10y guarantee and u must make major renovations from what i have read after some years.

anyways, i am sure u can a cheaper pool, i just made my choice based on many factors. Hopefully i made a decent choice.

Edited September 12, 2009 by chrgrims

[cdnvic]

Have you tested the ground water for mineral content? Many places in Thailand have very hard water, and there are steps you need to take to ensure it's soft enough for pool use.

[chrgrims]

yes, i need to get the calsium hardness of the tap water tested. I am trying to find a nice kit. the lamotte representative hasnt answered me. i did find a nice kit on the net, but its around 150 dollars. we will see what happens.

Update:

Edited September 14, 2009 by chrgrims

[Valentine]

I did not realise it was a freeform pool but good to see them setting the waterstop in place.

As there are probably no pool shops in your area perhaps you could try one the aquarium shops to see if they can test for hardness. Most of the time for your pool a simple chlorine & pH test kit will do which should only cost around 600 Baht & I am sure your builder can supply although it is possible he has included it with the pool cleaning kit.

Edited September 14, 2009 by Valentine

[cdnvic]

Most better titration kits will have a calcium hardness test. If in doubt jusk ask at a pool shop. DO NOT pay $150 for it.

[chrgrims]

the 150 dollar kit has the following (150 is my estimation where shipping is included).

1. FAS/DPD test for Free chlorine

2. FAS/DPD test for Combined Chloramines

3. OTO test for chlorine (a quick, daily test)

4. Test block for pH

5. Calcium Hardness Test

6. Alkalinity Test

7. CYA (stabilizer for Cl) test

cheers, chr

[chrgrims]

I did not realise it was a freeform pool but good to see them setting the waterstop in place.

As there are probably no pool shops in your area perhaps you could try one the aquarium shops to see if they can test for hardness. Most of the time for your pool a simple chlorine & pH test kit will do which should only cost around 600 Baht & I am sure your builder can supply although it is possible he has included it with the pool cleaning kit.

y, freeform. i think it will look great. tx for the aquarium tip!

[cdnvic]

That's a lot for a titration kit. Is that average price in Thailand?

Be cheaper to mail me a water sample.

[chrgrims]

Careful what u offer

we will see, i have time to look for different kits.

[chrgrims]

lots of pics today because the concrete arrived:

[stgrhe]

The concrete mix looks very wet to me and it appears merely to be a mix of cement and water only. I do not see any gravel, nor do I see any vibrator in use getting rid of the air pockets in the concrete, or have you ordered self compacting concrete? It is not so common here in Thailand as it is more expensive. Also, how many steng is the concrete?

[cdnvic]

The aggregate is clearly visible where the concrete is being poured.

[chrgrims]

I dont know the answer to those questions, so i forwarded the comment to the company. thanks for asking! everything went according to plan, and the workers seemed happy about it all. It is waterproof concrete and in the contract it says it must dry a long time, so now waiting is the next project

cheers, chr

[chrgrims]

Answer from u-tai pools:

"Steng 240 KSC slump test 12 +-3-5 cm with water resistant chemical

Here is Thailand and hot. Water is gone faster. It looks wet to get rid of air bubble also. Tom (the foreman) will cure with water."

[stgrhe]

Answer from u-tai pools:

"Steng 240 KSC slump test 12 +-3-5 cm with water resistant chemical

Here is Thailand and hot. Water is gone faster. It looks wet to get rid of air bubble also. Tom (the foreman) will cure with water."

240 steng is good but if the concrete wasn't vibrated you will most likely have air bubbles and that will make the concrete less strong.

Actually, curing in the concrete is a chemical process and it takes years before the process is finished and for that water is needed. That is why one should keep the concrete wet for up to a month and preferably also cover it from direct sunshine.

[chrgrims]

Here are some pictures from the last few days. The work is going very fast, 4-5 workers come at 7-8 in the morning and leave at 5pm every day.

[splitlid]

hope the skydiver didnt impale himself on the steel.