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Shaky Hands


sbk

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Even tho I have image stabilization on my camera, in low light levels I still get shake. I confess to not having strong hands, severe carpal tunnel when I was younger destroyed the strength in my hands and wrists. Is a tripod the only solution here? I have to confess that I hate carrying stuff around. Don't even carry a big purse, so can't see myself adding a tripod. A friend suggested I use her shoulder but somehow that seemed like it would just pick up her movement.

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Im interested to hear the experts answers on this one too.

I did a diploma in photography, video and media studies maaaaaany moons ago (well actually i dropped out!:D), and I recall being offered some simple tips on the photography side along the lines of:

If you dont have a tripod, find anything around that can be used as a stabliser. If the shot permits it then keep your upper arms locked by your side (even stabalising your hands in a gun cup if possible). A shoulder isnt great, but generally more stable than hands..of course if the person is able to hold their ground well.

Edit: as for me..well.. i tend to like to hold my camera in odd ways when taking a picture. I like unexpected shots and some degree of randomness. I think of a camera as an artistic aid. I dont have the patience of "real" photographers for apature, lighting, and accuracy etc. Not great for "traditional" and precise shots..but a lot of fun. :)

Edited by eek
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The easy answer would be to suggest you up the ISO to provide a faster shutter speed thus eliminating the camera shake.

You'll need to experiment to see exactly what configuration to set to achieve "steadiness" but bear in mind that too much ISO will enhance the noise (grain) and may ruin the shot.

Then set the camera on shutter speed and aim for a speed equal to the focal length in use i.e. 200mm lens equals 1/250th sec

Hope this helps

Edited by The Vulcan
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The new 'IS' -type cameras work great.

The OP >

Even tho I have image stabilization on my camera

At low light levels they help but are still limited to about 4 stops maximum assistance. I have two IS cameras and at a certain point in lighting the speed still gets too slow. As Vulcan mentions, boosting the ISO helps but if it is a P&S camera the noise level may be too high.

I usually try to find something to lean my shoulder against and put my left arm tight against my side sitting the camera on my left hand and shooting with the right. Take a few slow breaths then hold while "slowly" pressing the shutter button.

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three suggestions: 1) get a monopod or 2) buy a backpack for camera, is not painful as a side purse, and you can use it on your front to steady your camera in low light, or 3) assuming you use a SLR or DSLR (or any big body camera) use two hands on the side of the camera (left hand over right hand) pushing the other side of the camera against your left shoulder and you get no shake.

Edited by aeon
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Hi sbk, :D

What is your camera Make & Model. This could helps us a great deal........ :D

Hang the camera around your neck and use a remote control whilst staying still i.e. lean against a wall,

Take a few slow breaths then hold while "slowly" pressing the shutter button.
as Tywais mentioned.

Also as 'The Vulcan' mentioned together with the lowest F-Stop possible

The easy answer would be to suggest you up the ISO to provide a faster shutter speed thus eliminating the camera shake.

Greater ISO more noise, but if you have a camera that Kan shoot at say ISO 400 - 600 with minimum noise then good.

I have an Oly E-3. My settings are, F2.8 in Aperture Priority Mode, ISO 400 - 500 and I let the camera choose the speed.

It also helps that you are sitting down at a table where you Kan rest both your elbows on the table and using the Veiw-Finder and not the screen behind camera to take a low-light shot. :D

Shot taken last Friday using this method in Kan

large.jpg

Olympus E-3

1s f/3.2 at 14.0mm iso500

Free hand btw, as I had a couple of beers to steady me hands. :)

As 'eek' wrote

If the shot permits it then keep your upper arms locked by your side (even stabalising your hands in a gun cup if possible).

Sawadee :D

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Lovley shot Kanwin;

All I can say is that I try to use a tripod sa much as possible, then I can take the time to compose the shot I want, with the light I want.

Mind you, there are times when I see stuff and I just move the camera to Auto and Program, and I trust that the engineers that built the camera probably know for more than I do.

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There are a number of things to consider.

1. The rule of thumb is that the slowest speed you can hand hold, typically in low light conditions,

depends on the focal length of the lens. 50mm lens 1/50th of a second,

200mm lens 1/200th of a second.

I used to be able to manage 1/15th of a second with a 50mm lens, when I was young, but not any longer. :)

2. What sort of camera?

If it has a view finder then pressing hard against your head helps steady the camera.

I cannot manage with a phone or a modern camera using a screen on the back, my hands are not steady enough.

3. Make use of natural supports.

When photographing in churches I will position myself so the camera is partly against a pillar to make for more stability.

4. If all all else fails select a higher ISO speed on your camera, then you will get a shorter exposure time,

but at the possible offset of more noise in the picture. Again this depends on the camera.

The small cameras with small ccd suffer more than the bigger models.

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Hi folks

As others have pointed out there is a general rule in photography that says that your shutter speed should be at least equal to your focal length to minimize unwanted camera shake (this means that if you use a 100mm telephoto lens the shutter speed should be at least 1/100s, if you use a 300mm lens the shutter speed should be at least 1/320s etc..)

However; most  Digital cameras do not have a sensor with the same dimensions as 35mm film (which was used at the time the rule was made). In most cases the camera has a crop factor of 1.5 or 1.6, (this means that a 100mm lens is actually a 150 or 160mm lens when translated into 35mm film sizes. So If your camera has a crop factor of 1.6 and you're using a 200mm lens you should use a shutter speed of at least 1/320 (200mm * 1.6 = 320)

My tip for hand supporting your camera is to place your left hand on your right shoulder and then rest the camera on your left elbow/arm. This is the most stable posture I have found and is good with longer lenses especially when used in conjunction with leaning your left shoulder against a firm support.

Cheers for now J

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Well, after all this, I have learned I am holding the camera wrong, for someone like myself support is absolutely necessary and well, I can't say I've been doing much of that. Time to retrain my brain and remember the hold the camera correctly.

Fabulous advice everyone, thanks for your help!

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but on an slr using image stabilization (IS) lens you have to turn the IS off before using a tripod or monopod.

and why would you have to do is :D

I do not, but get nice photos using a tripod :)

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but on an slr using image stabilization (IS) lens you have to turn the IS off before using a tripod or monopod.

and why would you have to do is :)

He is correct and you will find that recommendation in several other forums and has to do with the IS "seeking or hunting" in some situations and cameras. I'm not sure if it is the ones with the highest stop improvement or less stop improvement though that is more sensitive to this problem.

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but on an slr using image stabilization (IS) lens you have to turn the IS off before using a tripod or monopod.

and why would you have to do is :D

I do not, but get nice photos using a tripod :)

Because after 40+ years as a professional photographer there are some things you just know... :D I suggest you read the manual that came with your lens.

Cheers

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