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How To Update A Typical Wooden Thai Farmhouse?


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Hi All,

I have a wooden Thai farmhouse, horizontal wood sidings, wood plank floor, posts, and beams. Like most local houses, this one is a single walled house. That is, from the interior of the house, you can see the backside of the sidings and the vertical studs.

I would like to update the interior by putting up drywall and placing some sort of insulation into the wall space (between the outer wood siding and the interior drywall). However, I haven't been able to find tar paper (which we use in the US) or some similar material to use as a vapor barrier. My local architect claims that we don't need that here in upper Issan--which seems very odd to me.

Have any of you done something similar?

Any ideas? Expanding foam? Plastic sheets? Plastering the backside of wooden sidings?

Your thoughts and suggestions would be much appreciated.

Cheers

ps. I'm out in the sticks and only get into town to check email about twice a week, so please don't be offended if I don't reply to your post right away.

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You can buy glass wool insulation with one side covered in tough plastic/metallic film.

It comes in different thicknesses.

We purchased ours from Homex, but I'm sure it's available in most large building supply stores.

We used it for ceiling insulation but it would be equally good between the wood sidings and drywall.

I'd take your "architect's" advice with a pinch of salt.

In Thailand I have often heard the phrase: "In Thailand no need, we do good job for you"

That "no need" can mean "I don't know what you mean so lets forget about that" or

"If you want all those extras it will take longer for me to get paid"

That can often be said about stuff that western builders consider normal building practice.

e.g. p-traps on all waste water outlets - no need!

water proof cement layer on brick wall footing - no need!

adequate ventilation of bathrooms - no need!

light switches for each light - no need!

earth wiring - no need!

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I'm not sure you need a vapour barrier. Its really for use in cold countries where hot air moves toward the colder outside and leaves condensation in the walls which then causes mould, rot and other delights.

I think you could just drywall it, drywall breathes and temperatures do not vary much between inside and outside or from season to season.

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Thanks, Xerostar & Johnnyk.

That glass wool with the thick plastic sheet sounds like what I need.

I think you're right about the minimal condensation here. I am somewhat concern with the rain. The seams between the siding planks are not very tight. I can see light through the gaps and many boards have water stains. Would this be worrisome for mildew?

Thanks again for your replies.

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Thanks, Xerostar & Johnnyk.

That glass wool with the thick plastic sheet sounds like what I need.

I think you're right about the minimal condensation here. I am somewhat concern with the rain. The seams between the siding planks are not very tight. I can see light through the gaps and many boards have water stains. Would this be worrisome for mildew?

Thanks again for your replies.

Seal up the cracks if you can, maybe board and batten using 1x2? Drywall doesn't like to be wet but I think most moisture would evaporate pretty quickly as temps remain pretty consistent and it doesn't rain 24/7.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Hi

Are we talking same style of house?

Appreciate any updates on your progress, recommendations etc as I'd like to tidy-up and line the interior.

Also - advice on best product to re-stain the exterior.

And yes, that is my foot in the second pic - from my vantage point of the sleeping mat!

thanks!

16980_1302171120529_1417997599_886180_296705_n.jpg

16980_1303100463762_1417997599_888398_5709251_n.jpg

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Why do you want to line the inside walls? Just so it looks nice? Or is the goal to insulate the place and close it up and use the AC you will install later?

If you are insulating to use AC then a vapor barrier I think would be necessary as the heat and humidity will transfer if not protected. The moisture will go in the opposite direction than in cold climates as now you will be cooling the interior surfaces and hot on the outside.

If this is just for looks then why spend the money on the old place. The rustic look is just fine

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Longball, it's a just a little experiment for fun. The sunny side gets fairly hot. I don't plan on using AC.

Genghis, yeah, something like your place. People around here say that a wooden house is worth more than a concrete house (providing the termites haven't had their shares). Apparently, there are always people looking to buy an old wood house for the nice old planks and beams.

I haven't done much so I can't comment with any real results yet. Just adding some small things like brackets and reinforcement metals on some key posts/beams. Putting in aluminum windows. Venting the ceilings. A few splashes of paint in the interior to lighten up the place. Sealing the openings and gaps in the walls to keep bugs out. I can't say how any of these things will work out, but if you check with me in a year, I'll give you an update :)

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  • 2 weeks later...

Just some info may be of use,when we built our house,I insisted that between the outer brick and the inside was polystyrene foam insulation sheets so that was installed on every outside wall then those small clay bricks on the inside then cement render.

The interesting thing is that if I put my hand on a wall facing the sun its very hot but the same place inside is cool so it works very well.

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