Road To Doi Phatang, A Motorcycle Daytrip...

[villagefarang]

This can't be real. This can't be me. Its dark, its cold, its late and I am still on my motorcycle, riding through villages thick with smoke. At least I'm nearing home. What is that eerie orange glow in the sky?

As if in unison, the villagers were burning their massive mounds of rice-straw, leftover from the harvest. Dozens of bright orange, flickering mountains of fire, and hanging above each, a gigantic glowing cloud of smoke.

Somewhere in the midst of this inferno, I could just make out the silhouette of our house in the field. Having previously taken careful note of distances from our house, of each and every potential inferno, I was not overly concerned. Still ones heart sinks each year when this bacchanal, love fest of fire occurs.

Anticipating an edict that, "Thou shalt not burn.", there is a mad rush to set alight all that is flammable, before that day comes. Not that they stop burning, when told not to. Just that it is more difficult to evade detection when there might be someone watching. So by the time the order comes down, most of the damage has already been done.

With the dawn of morning, as first light broke upon this chilly, foggy day, I had no notion that it would end the way it had. Earlier in the week we had not felt well enough to accept a camping invitation to Doi Chang with a Farang friend and his Thai family. Last night, feeling better, I did say yes, however, to a Thai friend who wanted to ride our Phantoms to Doi Phatang, high in the mountains overlooking the Lao boarder, past Phu Chi Faa.

Riding to our rendezvous point, I was shivering from the cold, as the fog clung to my visor, obscuring my view. I was greeted with a welcome cup of hot tea and warmed up while we waited for our third rider. Briefly there were four of us, as we bumped into someone else at the gas station, but the trip was really two Fire Edition Phantoms and a Kawasaki Boss. As we reached the foothills and started up the first steep road to Phu Chi Faa, my friend's Phantom died with no warning.

Repairs were attempted, but failed. It was decided to leave the bike and continue the trip, with my two Thai companions doubled up on the Boss. There were no further incidents but we took it quite easy as the roads were very twisty, steep and covered with loose gravel on many of the bends. Some areas had washed out during the rainy season, so there were dirt detours and makeshift wooden bridges in places.

Higher up the mountain we stopped to visit another friend who has a school for young mountain children and bungalows for visitors or tourist from Bangkok. The four of us sat around talking of culture, business, politics and life. All of us being worldly and travelled, topics were varied, animated and much to my liking. I must say, I could not hide my pleasure or my smile when our host was so adamant that the four of us must be of the same age. Thais often maintain friendships within a narrow range of age and socioeconomic background, so being ten years older, I was delighted being seen as a peer.

We continued on to our destination, arriving in time for lunch, followed by obligatory shopping, visiting with vendors and taking pictures of the area. On the way we stopped to take pictures of the cabbage patches that blanket the slopes but sped past the onion patches as there was less going on.

Looking at the map it was decided not to retrace our path, but to take a slightly longer but better maintained route back, lower down the mountain. Even with the haze, the views and atmosphere were fantastic. The twists and turns provided an intensive course of maneuvering, braking and gear selection. I would have preferred not to be driving directly into the setting sun, in the end that was but a minor annoyance.

Eventually we made it back to where we had left the lifeless Phantom, and in the goodness of time, managed to load it in the back of a pickup truck and have it taken to a shop in Thoeng, as we followed. From there it was back to my friend's house.

Friends safely delivered and the contents of my saddlebags sorted, I was ready to leave. "But you can't leave. We have made dinner and you simply must stay and eat." As I "waied" to all, I explained that my wife would be very worried about me riding my motorcycle after dark and I really needed to get home. After all I had never driven at night, steadfastly considering it too foolhardy to do so.

Had I been on my own, the day would have been much different. Not better but different and more controlled. It was definitely more fun with others but with that came more difficulties and responsibilities. It was easier being a follower most of the way, with no need to make decisions. It also meant, however, that I was driving home alone on a dark, cold, smokey night with many hazards along the way.

Returning well after dark, to the relief on my wife and the joy of my dog, I was soon relating the events of the day. It struck me that just the other night, while we enjoyed luxuriating in a hot aromatic bath, the wife and I had been discussing our differing outlook on group activities. For me, more people means more responsibility, stress and less freedom of action. For my wife, more people means more fun, less stress and more security.

The day's events provided excellent object lessons for both points of view. I think it was clear to both of us, that it is not really an either/or decision on most occasions. It is more of a balancing act, where we weigh the needs of those involved, against task at hand. Sometimes choosing one path over another and sometimes compromising as we strike a balance between the two.

So in spite of it being dark, and cold, and late, and decidedly not me, it was very real indeed. In all, a good day where I stepped out of my comfort zone. A day filled with beauty, friendship, camaraderie, overcoming adversity, compromise, new experiences and the simple undeniable joy of riding a motorcycle in the mountains of Chiang Rai.

Edited December 13, 2009 by villagefarang

[villagefarang]

Okay, I get it. I left out the power ranger suit, GPS, mileage stats, maps, and video of tarmac. I'll try not to stop anywhere and enjoy the trip, next time. More speed. More miles.

[alant]

brilliant report, really interesting photos, sounds like my type of trip

cheers

[villagefarang]

brilliant report, really interesting photos, sounds like my type of trip

cheers

Thanks alant. I figured there must be at least one other guy out there who might enjoy a read about puttering about in the mountains. So you are that guy. Nice to make your acquaintance.

[alant]

will keep in touch, and yes just my cup of tea

[BigBikeBKK]

Nice trip report- like you I'm not keen on riding after dark- glad you made it home safe and sound! Are you on GT Rider? Wonderful site for riding up north. Happy Trails!

Edited December 14, 2009 by BigBikeBKK

[neverdie]

Just saw this thread VF, Awesome photos and I also enjoyed your trip report, too busy to comment forther for once. Where do you intend to visit next time?

[villagefarang]

Nice trip report- like you I'm not keen on riding after dark- glad you made it home safe and sound! Are you on GT Rider? Wonderful site for riding up north. Happy Trails!

I do use the GT Rider map of my area. As for coincidences, I just registered on that site today.

I've already covered most of the roads in a 150 km radius from my home in Phaya Mengrai, so am starting to look for new places. There is so much good riding around here, it is hard to get pumped for super long rides to somewhere else.

[villagefarang]

Just saw this thread VF, Awesome photos and I also enjoyed your trip report, too busy to comment forther for once. Where do you intend to visit next time?

Well, today I'm going 12 km into the village to get the bike cleaned a polished for 30 baht.

Seriously I like to mix it up by hiking with my dog, mountain biking and riding the motorcycle. It is hard to find others to go with, so I just go out on my own, which freaks out my wife. She worries about this old fart being out in the middle of nowhere and having something go wrong.

I try to keep a camera with me and sometimes come back with an idea for a blog entry. This trip report is a copy and paste from my blog at www.villagefarang.com.

[BigBikeBKK]

Nice trip report- like you I'm not keen on riding after dark- glad you made it home safe and sound! Are you on GT Rider? Wonderful site for riding up north. Happy Trails!

I do use the GT Rider map of my area. As for coincidences, I just registered on that site today.

I've already covered most of the roads in a 150 km radius from my home in Phaya Mengrai, so am starting to look for new places. There is so much good riding around here, it is hard to get pumped for super long rides to somewhere else.

Cheers VF,

I'm TonyBKK over on GT Rider and hope to see you there.

After last weekend's spectacular rides around Nan I'm really looking forward to making it up north again as soon as possible.

I've sussed out this loop from Nan which includes the spectacular 1081 which I'd like to do in reverse and then come back on the 1257 which I've not yet explored but looks quite tasty

Hoping to do this beginning/middle of January. Can't wait!

Happy Trails,

Tony

[LivinLOS]

Okay, I get it. I left out the power ranger suit, GPS, mileage stats, maps, and video of tarmac. I'll try not to stop anywhere and enjoy the trip, next time. More speed. More miles.

Why the bitterness ??

[villagefarang]

Okay, I get it. I left out the power ranger suit, GPS, mileage stats, maps, and video of tarmac. I'll try not to stop anywhere and enjoy the trip, next time. More speed. More miles.

Why the bitterness ??

You know how it is on TV. If you can't get a rise, you stir the pot a little. At that point, there were several readers but no responses.

Thought I might start a conversation with those who see things differently from me. Debate the merits of cruising lazily through the mountains over being hel_l bent to see how many thousands of kilometers you can do in one day, with hardly a break to pee.

I'm sure there is merit in both approaches and an interesting conversation to be had. Besides, didn't you see my " " ? I was using proper netiquette and not expressing bitterness at all. Sorry if you took offense.

[BigBikeBKK]

Okay, I get it. I left out the power ranger suit, GPS, mileage stats, maps, and video of tarmac. I'll try not to stop anywhere and enjoy the trip, next time. More speed. More miles.

Why the bitterness ??

You know how it is on TV. If you can't get a rise, you stir the pot a little. At that point, there were several readers but no responses.

Thought I might start a conversation with those who see things differently from me. Debate the merits of cruising lazily through the mountains over being hel_l bent to see how many thousands of kilometers you can do in one day, with hardly a break to pee.

I'm sure there is merit in both approaches and an interesting conversation to be had. Besides, didn't you see my " " ? I was using proper netiquette and not expressing bitterness at all. Sorry if you took offense.

LOL- I thought that might have been aimed at the only other recent trip report on TV, but no worries- I don't care what you ride, how far you go or what speed- as long as you are enjoying yourself that is all that really matters.

Happy Trails!

Tony

[villagefarang]

LOL- I thought that might have been aimed at the only other recent trip report on TV, but no worries- I don't care what you ride, how far you go or what speed- as long as you are enjoying yourself that is all that really matters.

Happy Trails!

Tony

Agreed, my sentiments exactly.

Just because I am a pussy and don't want to put a million baht bike in a rice paddy or worse, doing 150 or more, doesn't mean I don't admire those who don't give it a second thought. Mine are not made of brass and are sensitive to the touch. Give me a lazy day with beautiful views and I am very happy.

[BigBikeBKK]

Just because I am a pussy and don't want to put a million baht bike in a rice paddy or worse, doing 150 or more, doesn't mean I don't admire those who don't give it a second thought. Mine are not made of brass and are sensitive to the touch. Give me a lazy day with beautiful views and I am very happy.

LOL, where would the world be without pussy???

My bike's only a quarter mil Baht, but it seems to keep up with the pricier bikes ok.

I think if you're going to crash a rice paddy might just be about the best place to land...

Ride On!

[Garry]

Just because I am a pussy and don't want to put a million baht bike in a rice paddy or worse, doing 150 or more, doesn't mean I don't admire those who don't give it a second thought. Mine are not made of brass and are sensitive to the touch. Give me a lazy day with beautiful views and I am very happy.

LOL, where would the world be without pussy???

My bike's only a quarter mil Baht, but it seems to keep up with the pricier bikes ok.

I think if you're going to crash a rice paddy might just be about the best place to land...

Ride On!

I think if you're going to crash a rice paddy might just be about the best place to land

was thinking similar thoughts myself

[aitch52]

Cheers Village Farang

enjoyed the report and the pics, like you 120 is well fast enough for me

Kudos to you mate

Aitch

[villagefarang]

I am pleased that some found levity in my reference to the rice paddy. Sadly I was thinking of the "or worse" part. The image in my mind, was of my wife's younger brother. A few months back, at the age of 32, he decided to put his face through the passenger door window of a vintage BMW. Unfortunately, he did not live to tell about it. The scars left on the soul of his family are surely as deep as his were on the day.

We are all invincible, until we are not. I'm not in favor of legislating common sense. I don't think it works. I do, however, lament the lack of precaution and common sense I sometimes see, and the subsequent loss of life and the effect it has on the image of motorcycle riders as a whole.

Testosterone and male bravado can be hard enough to control, without a throbbing hunk of metal between the legs and extreme speed. By all means have fun but think of your loved ones before pushing the limits. When you find that limit, it may well be too late.

[aitch52]

Sorry to hear about your brother in law. We all know what we think we can do, in reality however, our comfort zone has been exceeded with predictable results. You said it best, it's the ones left behind who really pick up the tab, peace of mind and acceptance to them I hope.

Aitch