Living In A Village - Was It Tolerable For You?

[Lopburi99]

I started the "Living in a Village - Was it tolerable to you?" thread back in September and had over 300 interesting posts where members commiserated, complained, suggested adaptation ideas, provided insight based on personal experience, the works. It was a pretty good thread I think because this is a topic which many of us have faced or are facing.

I requested the thread closed some time ago because it seemed to be no longer going anywhere.

Although still dealing with some health issues which necessitated my cessation of providing regular posts on TV, I wanted to add today the results of my five month efforts to adapt to village life in a small farming village south of Sa Kaeo off highway 317.

One major obstacle which was driving me nuts was the daily 6am village Public Address announcements being blasted at alarmingly high decibels to the locals via the many village speakers mounted high on poles. Ear plugs didn't work very well, seemed like I was sleeping in a drum. Finally my wife's sister (a teacher and policeman's wife) talked to the owner of our rented house about the problem after she realized I was about to start packing. As to be least offensive, she didn't issue a direct complaint but mentioned it interfered with my need to sleep soundly in the mornings due to health concerns and that we be forced to vacate. She also took the opportunity to ask the landlord to please speak to the (idiot) man who loved to blare booming music on his mobile speaker soundwagon shortly after the 60 minute P.A. message ended. To my great surprise, the speakers were turned to a very low volume the very next morning and the other booming music stopped (until 9am at which time I said it was acceptable).

So that problem was solved.

But around the first of December I also began being rudely awakened, this time at 5am or even earlier. By smoke. Evidently the farmers start burning cane and corn stalks that time of the year for about 2-3 months. They like to start the fires early before they head off for a day of work (but they did it on weekends too, and even started new fires at night). Our rented house was not exactly air tight around the windows so the daily smoke easily swept through our bedroom windows, promptly causing me to be awakened with sneezing and carrying on evidently due to allergies.

That did it. The last straw. We packed up and headed back to Lopburi the next day, giving our 30 day notice to vacate Jan 1.

Then we returned to the village the day after Christmas to begin to pack up and spend some time with the wife's family before leaving essentially for good. The family was disappointed but accepting of our leaving the village. During our Christmas time visit we met a Swedish farang from Soi Dao, not far away, and a decent guy. Then my Swiss friend in the village decided to have a New Year's Eve party so we stayed for that. There was another farang, this one from Australia, who came to the party and we got along quite well. He also lived only about 5km from us. At one person's suggestion, we the next day dined at a little resort only about 5km away which offered western food, something which I really missed while living in the village. The chap (owner and chef) was from London England and offered a complete international (as well as Thai) menu. I had several English breakfasts which were good and even a very decent, juicy, tasty cheeseburger (the first decent one I had here in two years!). The London chap also was a Jaguar automobile lover and we gabbed on an on about our (mostly tragic) experiences with the many old Jags we each previously owned.

So, most ironically, now that I have a few western friend there in the village, I was somewhat remorseful to leave even though the damned pervasive smoke was still a problem.

My current thinking is not to live in the village until I am able to construct my own home, adequately sealed to hold out the smoke and adequately filtered for the smoke which got in. Even after having our home there, I still see the necessity of splitting my time in the village with a touristy city such as Ko Chang, Jomtien or Hua Hin about 60-40%. The village home can be our base, will be near enough the relatives to satisfy my wife, and the other time in a resort area will satisfy my need for western food, entertainment, English language speaking, and the like. Sometimes we'll trip off to Lopburi to see my wife's friends and some family also living there.

So, I think in summary, life in the village, although often non-ideal or often difficult, can possibly work out if you construct a home suitable to your needs there (ideally with a little oasis and pool), somehow find some friends even if you need to drive a fair bit to visit them, get a good satellite or cable for English TV and movies, bring in some western creature comforts (like a great stereo or leather furniture) and identify as many farang-friendly local businesses as you can. But this takes time. Took us about five months. But it looks like everything may work out just fine.

So the plan now is to just to bite the bullet by staying rent free (in my wife's previous home) in Lopburi for 1-2 years (hope my health holds out) until I can save up enough money to build our modest new village house (and pool). In the meanwhile, we'll still split our time between Lopburi and some resort areas during our saving period. If we take to the road monthly for some touring and enjoyment, hopefully the time will pass relatively quickly

I hope others can benefit from my experiences.

Lop

[tmwke]

Sounds like your wifes family are good people Me thinks youve got it made Choke Dee

[villagefarang]

As you are finding out, it is doable. You just have to know what your needs are and find a way to fill them. Glad things are looking up and good luck for the future.

[Lite Beer]

Yep. Good luck Lop99.

The morning speakers drive me nuts as well. Have to accept it.

[jubby]

The morning speakers issue is easily solved. Just get up with the first few Cock-a-doodle-do's at around 3.30 - 4 am as I seem to do these days.

It then becomes a non event

Edited January 10, 2010 by jubby

[bellste]

I wouldn't live in a village, even if they gave me a million THB per day. Everything North of Bangkok do not exist for me.

[ThailandLovr]

The morning speakers issue is easily solved. Just get up with the first few Cock-a-doodle-do's at around 3.30 - 4 am as I seem to do these days.

It then becomes a non event

Impossible jubby. I am as ugly as they come at that ungodly hour.

[Lopburi99]

The morning speakers issue is easily solved. Just get up with the first few Cock-a-doodle-do's at around 3.30 - 4 am as I seem to do these days.

It then becomes a non event

Impossible jubby. I am as ugly as they come at that ungodly hour.

Me too. In my retirement years I just want a regular good night's sleep, leisurely awaking at a reasonable time, having a quiet cup of coffee and little breakfast as I read the paper. I am not willing to give up any of that and happily it appears I won't have to.

[IanForbes]

I get totally bored after about one day in a Thai village unless I've brought my computer and art supplies. Then it is tolerable because I can usually entertain myself. If It wasn't for that I'd become a mountain man cutting trails to nowhere in particular.

[kikoman]

I live in a small village going on 5 years now, I do not have the problem of being awaken by the speaker at 6;00 AM ,as I am up at 5 in the morning. If I had problems sleeping late (need of more sleep) I would go to bed earlier the night before, thus getting my alloted hours of sleep per night,This a rice growing village, and the whole village is up and working, a that time in the morning. I would not think of asking the village to change their ways to appease me. I chose to live there and not visa-versa. The smoke in the village is something ,I live with as part of the rice growing cycle in my area , two rice crops are grown each year,

I am the only falang in the village and I do not need other falangs so I can make friends! I have more friends than I need with my Thai friends, family and nieghbors.I occassionally see other falangs in Lat Yao and they do not seek any interaction and niether do I.

For food I like Thai food, and my wife has learned to cook Mexican food, So I have no problem in seeking Western food. also I make a lot of my own food, Kim Chee,Mayo,mustard dip for my chicken nuggets my wife buys frozen in Lat Yao, I make my own pizzas, pickled pigs feet, pickles, bacon, and have a ham curing now.

I find that village life is great for me as I do not need other falangs to make me happy. give the Thais a chance and you will find some very good, caring , understanding friends as I have. I do not go to any larger cities with a big expat population, except to Bangkok to get needed visa information from my Embassy and do some shopping for foods not available locally.

My wife has a large garden and grows a lot of our own food, we have all kinds of fruit trees that we get a lot of seasonal fruit ,what we do not have we trade with our family and friends.

I find falangs do not attempt to interact with Thais on a person to person basis, as a result they miss out on the opportunity of making friends with the local Thais, and fulfill thier social needs for friends or to try to change Thais into doing things thier way.

I enjoy my life as it is in my village, just like it is!

Cheers:

Edited January 10, 2010 by kikoman

[bankruatsteve]

I've lived in a village for some years now. The speakers (ABSOLUTELY OBNOXIOUS to everyone - but nobody complains) and the chickens, etc. can get used to - for me anyway. I snore and that seems to bother the family more than anything else. (joking I think) I do insist on Truevision and some good books. My GF is a good cook so no problems there. And it you have a few mates to BS with, what else could be better?

Getting your own space/house does help. Esp having a western toilet. I just don't think I can ever feel good about squatting for a shit and then having to wipe with my fingers. OK - I can splash and wash with soap after - but aagh I'm just not built for that.

Otherwise... what's diff from living in the city? I've done that too (BKK for 12 years while working.) But, you can get bored anywhere or can have fun anywhere: up to you.

Cheers

[Nio]

I wouldn't move next to factory belching smoke or next to an active volcano.

What that means is sometimes a little research is in order

Burning the fields is something that happens all over Thailand for 100's of years I suspect

If the house you plan on rented was in the fields you should have passed

This is Thailand and adapting to the villagers way of life is the only way because they won't adapt to your western wants

I am surprised they turned the announcements down, granted it was not for you, it was for the power of the owner of the house

You need to research and identify everything YOU will need then see if you can find a place where all your needs can be met

Expecting the village to change for you is not going to happening

If smoke bothers you, then dont live near where they burn the fields

To think you can build an airtight house in Thailand is quite far fetched

[jimbeam1]

Had nearly two years of village life, driving me crazy. Loud speakers, chickens+ pa system, local barber and his mates getting pisse-d playing music. Give me the peace and quiet of a large city any day. Moving out soon!!!

Having said that, I have made some good friends here. Really nice people. Would be sad if I never got to see them again. Aaaaagh

Edited January 10, 2010 by jimbeam1

[ProfessorFart]

I didn't see your old post but I assume that you have the werewithal to live pretty much where you want.

It also seems to me that if those everyday 'Thailand Things' like noise and air pollution bother you then maybe a rethink about your future is needed as youcan't escape that shit anywhere in Thailand I'm afraid.

My friend moved into his 'dream' retirement home on the outskirts of Pai several years ago. Two weeks later he had the neighbours kids back from Uni roaring around on their bikes at all hours. Wen he complained he had a gun waved in his face and was told to 'fuc_k off home' despite the fact that he had actually bought the land from these tosser's dad at an arsehol_e price.

The kids eventually vanished off to wherever but as Pai grew, he now has three backpackers joints pretty much at he end of his road, and no view now to speak of.

Caveat Emptor!

[jubby]

The morning speakers issue is easily solved. Just get up with the first few Cock-a-doodle-do's at around 3.30 - 4 am as I seem to do these days.

It then becomes a non event

Impossible jubby. I am as ugly as they come at that ungodly hour.

being ugly is a 'Non event' here too . I'm an Handsome man atleast occording to the Older ladies in the Village. I'm sure your an Handsome man also, at any Hour or any state of Body and Mind

[torrenova]

Rentals in the sticks are not as plentiful as in Pattaya or Bangkok for instance and thus, you are often faced with a take it or leave it scenario.

The bloody announcement system drives me mad but you can get an offending speaker decommissioned. Not all of them unfortunately. The burning I hate as well and they don't give a toss about anyone else. I thought about but did not get around to putting up a silent fan, blowing away from the window. Maybe 2 for the bedroom windows. In your own place, proper windows of course !

I have broadband, a fairly decent computer set up, all electrical items one could require, hot water, aircon and UBC. Oh yes, UBC. Utterly Bloody Crap. I couldn't really enjoy TV without stuff like UKNova and essentially downloading torrents, putting them onto USB thumb drives and having a DVD player you can just push the USB into. Of course, you can now, with newer more fangled setups, have a remote control for your PC and just have it hooked up to your TV. I would probably do that nowadays.

As for food, I don't miss much other than bread, cheese, bacon and sausages and I don't need much of them. They all freeze well (cheese excepted but if cared for, it will last a month or two easy, sometimes many months). Rice and soup and my noodles are enough for me, though I do like options.

Conversation is so important. Chatting only with people who have no idea where their country is on a map, who do not know any history, who cannot tell you roughly how many people there are in the world or what time it is in New York right now, is suicidally depressing. You latch onto the nearest westerner and then find that he was in a factory, putting round pegs in round holes for 40 years and he never got bored. He will like village life, you will go mad.

I have personally made the decision that I am not prepared to live in the village nor in the provincial capital, which is Buriram, because it is too small. I have stated that I might find Surin large enough but on reflection, I doubt it. Going to a larger provincial town would be illogical as it would be neither where I wanted to be nor near her family. We have a child so international schooling is an issue though I understand that does not affect everyone.

Were there no kids, then in could make an argument for a place in the village and a main home wherever you wanted. That requires more financing I agree but is an option. Loads of options dependent upon your cash and view of houses versus condos.

For many though, I think the main reason why people do not live near a centre like Pattaya is that they don't have enough money. That is followed quite closely by having a long term partner who you met in Pattaya but who does not want to trust you in Pattaya. Next would be their home or near their family home.

before anyone takes the plunge, I strongly suggest they look very hard at what they do during the day and the evening and what their partner does and what their friends do. Writing this down will enable them to see where they interact, who they interact with and then they can start to put values on those interactions. Move the scenario to the proposed location and see just how much you would lose. For me, it is too much. Visit the village for a break but not live there. If money no object, building a house maybe but probably not.

[DP25]

Gotta be the only place in the world where living in a city of 12 million people is quieter than living in the countryside

[canopy]

Great post, resonates with my experiences. It appears some of the bigger problems with living in villages are modern and did not exist for thousands of year, but rather are new in just the last few generations. They seem to be a misuse of technology:

There never used to be agricultural burning because every crop was grown organically and the stalks had value in regeneration. The modern way of farming is fertilizer. Now the stalks are an agricultural waste product burned simply to get rid of them.

The loud speakers from the village, the trucks driving around blaring their wares, super noisy motorcycles, and the like came with electric and gas power.

[a2396]

Living in a Thai village is not like Westchester County (NY-USA), in case you hadn't realized this. I would NEVER consider living in such places & I don't understand the "belly-aching", from those who live in Thai villages. It's a free country (Thailand) and they can find somewhere where they ARE happy. I have.

[villagefarang]

Living on the outskirts of a village can alleviate many of the problems. A nice comfortable place to act as a sanctuary, in a beautiful tranquil setting. If done right village life is quite agreeable.

[kikoman]

Some of the post on the thread are the exact reason I love the village having a masters degree from an US university, having held political office, having been employed in the DVA system, I have no need to discuss what time it is in New York or anything else going on in the world, Been there,Done that.

Life in the village is not for everyone, If you need someone else ( from the West) to help complete your meaning for life by all means go back to Pattaya, if you can make happiness for yourself out of your own element, by all means come back to the village.

If anyone can claim that life in Bangkok, Pattaya or Chiang Mai is less polluted and quieter than the village,

It makes me question other points in their post.

When in the village one dose not knock on someones door and aggressively complain about motor bikes speeding around at night, confrontation only lead to more confrontation. If one has a problem, have your wife talk to the village headman about it and if he see your complaint has merit ,he will talk to the neighbors.

One thing you need to understand you as a falang do not own your house your wife dose, no matter who she brought it from. So action that work in the West are not the actions one is to use in the village.

Cheers:

[draggons]

I quite enjoy going up to the village for a few days at a time but don't think I could live there full time. We have a nice house 25kms out of Ayutthaya, so not that isolated, no other ex-pats in the village, no bar but a nice peacefull place.

I think to be able to live full time in a village you have got to adapt to the village way of life, I come from a village in the highlands that only had a population of 120. When folk from the south started moving in they thought it was great for the first couple of months then the complaining started, why are sheep, cattle wondering through the village, why does so & so have to park his tractor there, why does it take the joiner/slater/plumber so long to get round to sort things? Some stayed the course and integrated themselfs in village life, others packed up and left.

Village life is the same throughout the world and some city folks just can't hack it.

[apetley]

If smoke bothers you, then dont live near where they burn the fields

To think you can build an airtight house in Thailand is quite far fetched

I live in a village and the answer is easy, just use good quality doors and windows and not the usual cheap wooden ones.

[colspeed]

Great thread,

I've lived in villages since leaving Chiang Mai, over two years ago.

I now live in south Thailand and there are no rice fields anywhere near, so not much smoke - only when people are making charcoal. They do get up very early to cut rubber, but are normally very quiet.

I find plenty to do and the people are extremely friendly. I have to refuse far more beers than I have ever offered to buy. I get the same or bigger discounts than the locals. Also, it's (relatively) clean, fresh and quite cool because of all the trees and mountains around.

The village chief hardly ever uses the tannoy system.

This is frighteningly different from the things you usually read about here. I'm glad other people have similar experiences.

Cheers

[Meridian007]

It's great to see that you gave things another chance Lop, and that it's working out for you! I think one of the things discussed in the last thread is the importance of a peer group. Regardless of whether they are Thai or western, you need to have people you can spend time with, aside form your wife and her family.

I think this goes far towards assimilating yourself into village life, and the cessation of your noise issues. The burning happens everywhere, even in the city. Every morning I smell smoke as the residents from the moo-bans surrounding my condo burn god-knows-what. I think it's more than just leaves, it smells like they throw some tires on there for good measure!

I agree that you must research the area where you plan to build your house. Now that you know what bothers you, make sure that it won't be an issue where you build. Good Luck Lop!

[DP25]

If anyone can claim that life in Bangkok, Pattaya or Chiang Mai is less polluted and quieter than the village,

It makes me question other points in their post.

All the apartments I've stayed in in Bangkok have been utterly quiet day and night. Although I've been careful choosing them. I can't hear morning announcement speakers, motorbikes, traffic, monks, ice cream sellers, gai yang rickshaws, political megaphone trucks, dogs, chickens, or my neighbors.

[berniefromny]

the problem with this guy is he doesnt want to deal with the fact he doesnt want to live in the village. he needs excuses to make make himself believe he wants it.

life is too short. if you have to ask yrself if village is for you THEN IT OBVIOUSLY IS NOT!

dont worry its not a crime sir. most want to get out of the village, not move into one.

exceptions duly noted!

Edited January 11, 2010 by berniefromny

[border]

If smoke bothers you, then dont live near where they burn the fields

To think you can build an airtight house in Thailand is quite far fetched

I live in a village and the answer is easy, just use good quality doors and windows and not the usual cheap wooden ones.

Could ask what you do for fresh air if the house is shut up?

[MrRichard2009]

Thankx for the update ..... My only advice would be it sounds like your new house will be your last and you will be required somewhat to stay there. Just be 100% sure you will be happy. From your posts I think you would be happier with the ability to move around when you see fit, rather than be anchored down no matter where you were. Being stuck inside an airtight house if the only possible solution would be fine, but I think you have more choices than that. My fear for you is that eventually all these compromises and getting used to things you don't enjoy will add up and one day will come and all these little things will become one big thing. Good Luck and keep us posted

[Lopburi99]

<snip>

I find falangs do not attempt to interact with Thais on a person to person basis, as a result they miss out on the opportunity of making friends with the local Thais, and fulfill thier social needs for friends or to try to change Thais into doing things thier way.

I enjoy my life as it is in my village, just like it is!

Cheers:

I would very much like to interact with Thais on a person to person basis, but the reality is we are unable to communicate much beyond smiles and hand gestures since I speak only a very little Thai, or they speak little or no English. We seem to enjoy each others presence but after a few minutes we just sit there looking at each other and feeling uncomfortable. For that reason I have had to seek out other farangs, just to be able to communicate with and to have more areas of common interest. Just a few friends, two or three are fine because I am not into group activities, etc.