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Living In A Village - Was It Tolerable For You?


Lopburi99

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I didn't see your old post but I assume that you have the werewithal to live pretty much where you want.

<snip>

Nope Prof, but I sure wish I did. I have the requisite monthly income to qualify for my retirement visa and that's about it. However that still can give me the resources I need if I have a good saving program. In about two years I will have enough to build a little house on the land (land which I will have paid off in April), and in an additional year add a swimming pool (something which I really want). So it's just a race against time for me. Somewhat worried about my health though, as it has not been perfect by any means even though I am only 63. If I had the wherewithal now, I would rent or buy a quiet condo in Hua Hin or Pattaya and stay there until my new home in the village was constructed. After that, I would split my time about 50-50 between the two residences, or maybe a little less time in the village during the smoky season.

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the problem with this guy is he doesnt want to deal with the fact he doesnt want to live in the village. he needs excuses to make make himself believe he wants it.

life is too short. if you have to ask yrself if village is for you THEN IT OBVIOUSLY IS NOT!

dont worry its not a crime sir. most want to get out of the village, not move into one.

exceptions duly noted!

That's not quite the case with me bernie. There are some things which I like about village life very much. It is far more casual, laid back and, during the late morning, afternoons and sometimes evening hours, very peaceful and restful (in mine village anyway). In this open, mostly farming community there is often a pleasant breeze (albeit rarely cool), and the scenery is very appealing. Very little traffic, even relatively few motorcycles except in the village center itself. And also of importance is my wife's need for some village life.

This little village (maybe it is called a town, I don't know, but it seems like a village), the local government is always making community improvements. They have a beautiful newish community center complex complete with two soccer grounds, tennis courts, large jogging/walking route, a nice aerobic dancing area where many locals participate in daily teacher-driven, music included sessions. They have a beautiful large community swimming pool there too, and recently constructed a large new school which even has a new golf driving range adjacent. The village is relative clean and is pretty good. The government had a New Years Eve event (Count Down - pronounced "Kow Dow" by locals [took me a hour to understand what they were saying :) ].

All that said however, after a week or two there I still yearn to be in a tourist area. That is why I know I need to split my time in each area otherwise, over time, I believe Thailand probably just wouldn't work for me.

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If smoke bothers you, then dont live near where they burn the fields

To think you can build an airtight house in Thailand is quite far fetched

I live in a village and the answer is easy, just use good quality doors and windows and not the usual cheap wooden ones.

Could ask what you do for fresh air if the house is shut up?

I open the windows!

My point is that when there is alot of burning outside and hence not alot of fresh air outside then I close the windows to stop the smoke, ash and soot getting in.

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If anyone can claim that life in Bangkok, Pattaya or Chiang Mai is less polluted and quieter than the village,

It makes me question other points in their post.

All the apartments I've stayed in in Bangkok have been utterly quiet day and night. Although I've been careful choosing them. I can't hear morning announcement speakers, motorbikes, traffic, monks, ice cream sellers, gai yang rickshaws, political megaphone trucks, dogs, chickens, or my neighbors.

Agree 100%. I have lived in Bangkok and tiny villages. In my experience, Bangkok absolutely has better air and is quieter. It's not that Bangkok is either quiet or has clean air, but rather the doses of bad things are much, much worse in the villages and there's no sealed, air conditioned space for protection. In my area there is no garbage service at all. Everyone is expected to throw all their plastic in a heap and burn it daily or find a spot in the forest and dump it. And that's exactly what they do. As burnt plastic smoke wafts through the houses around absolutely no one sees anything wrong with it.

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Thankx for the update ..... My only advice would be it sounds like your new house will be your last and you will be required somewhat to stay there. Just be 100% sure you will be happy. From your posts I think you would be happier with the ability to move around when you see fit, rather than be anchored down no matter where you were. Being stuck inside an airtight house if the only possible solution would be fine, but I think you have more choices than that. My fear for you is that eventually all these compromises and getting used to things you don't enjoy will add up and one day will come and all these little things will become one big thing. Good Luck and keep us posted :)

Thanks Richard. Your point about the little compromises adding up is absolutely true, I believe. They can eventually fill up the cup until it "runneth over" -- one's capacity for tolerance finally exceeded.

My new house would definitely be my last, but as stated earlier I would even then continue to split my time in some expat areas. But it makes sense to make my new home as comfortable and pleasant as I can afford. That is why I envision a lovely swimming pool surrounded by beautiful, lush tropical flora, fauna and trees - a really neat little oasis area complete with barbecue/food preparation area, hammocks, etc. Given a good designer, it could be extremely attractive! That's my goal at this point. But I still have about two years of saving up to give everything more time, even to be sure family-related issues don't somehow crop up messing up everything. After two years everything should have been revealed and I should be comfortable with the final decisions before the actual build.

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If smoke bothers you, then dont live near where they burn the fields

To think you can build an airtight house in Thailand is quite far fetched

I live in a village and the answer is easy, just use good quality doors and windows and not the usual cheap wooden ones.

Could ask what you do for fresh air if the house is shut up?

I open the windows!

My point is that when there is alot of burning outside and hence not alot of fresh air outside then I close the windows to stop the smoke, ash and soot getting in.

Right, and to probably add a high quality air filtration device in the bedroom. The good ones are great for allergy control and the low speeds are very quiet for undisturbed sleeping. Or, for the occasional outside noise, turn up the device to help mask out the sound. Usually they can also crank up high to really quickly purify and refresh the air in a room if returning home to the smell of smoke inside.

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Living on the outskirts of a village can alleviate many of the problems. A nice comfortable place to act as a sanctuary, in a beautiful tranquil setting. If done right village life is quite agreeable.

Quite right. I live about a half-kilometer from the edge of the village and the morning loudspeakers are but a faint sound under the whir of my A/C, fan, and partner's snoring. :)

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If anyone can claim that life in Bangkok, Pattaya or Chiang Mai is less polluted and quieter than the village,

It makes me question other points in their post.

All the apartments I've stayed in in Bangkok have been utterly quiet day and night. Although I've been careful choosing them. I can't hear morning announcement speakers, motorbikes, traffic, monks, ice cream sellers, gai yang rickshaws, political megaphone trucks, dogs, chickens, or my neighbors.

Agree 100%. I have lived in Bangkok and tiny villages. In my experience, Bangkok absolutely has better air and is quieter. It's not that Bangkok is either quiet or has clean air, but rather the doses of bad things are much, much worse in the villages and there's no sealed, air conditioned space for protection. In my area there is no garbage service at all. Everyone is expected to throw all their plastic in a heap and burn it daily or find a spot in the forest and dump it. And that's exactly what they do. As burnt plastic smoke wafts through the houses around absolutely no one sees anything wrong with it.

Do you think there's any connection to Isaan having some of the world's highest incidence of cancers?

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If smoke bothers you, then dont live near where they burn the fields

To think you can build an airtight house in Thailand is quite far fetched

I live in a village and the answer is easy, just use good quality doors and windows and not the usual cheap wooden ones.

Look up the definition of air-tight

If no air can get in, how you do expect to breath?

So your quite easy answer is not really easy is it?

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If smoke bothers you, then dont live near where they burn the fields

To think you can build an airtight house in Thailand is quite far fetched

I live in a village and the answer is easy, just use good quality doors and windows and not the usual cheap wooden ones.

Look up the definition of air-tight

If no air can get in, how you do expect to breath?

So your quite easy answer is not really easy is it?

Air conditioning seems to be a good solution for two reasons:

1. Apparently the air is filtered so that some of the larger particles of pollution might not make it inside.

2. Personally I reckon that the air density is the most important part for anyone with respiratory ailments, because whatever the lungs are having to cope with, there's going to be more oxygen per litre of lung capacity in cold air than warm air.

Other than that, I guess a home that one can open at certain times of the day when the wind is blowing from the right direction, and then close up when the pollution starts or the wind changes is a good alternative, but it's a lot easier with air-cond, apart from the reduction in perspiration. The same effort to breathe returns more oxygen in the bloodstream = sabai dee.

On topic, I must admit that I finally spat the dummy last weekend and cleared out of the village apartment, moving here to this hotel in Ban Chang. I can hear the traffic outside on Sukhumvit right now, and it's music to my ears, for the moment anyway. I've attempted to reply to this thread's OP question twice before this, but too much honesty turns the post into a 2,000 word essay, so basically, without writing another 2,000 words, I could tolerate the village in December, but not in January.

I didn't change. It did.

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I’ve lived in a small Thai village for about 4 years now, it’s been good and bad, with high points and low along the way. The “Good Morning Thailand” sound system in my village is, for me fine, in fact I like it, for one it only is used twice a week, the volume is low enough for the system to deal with it without it getting all distorted and I don’t live to near a speaker, It is actually quite nice it starts with 1 or 2 old slow soft Thai tunes, then the announcements, the usual ones, “the Wat needs your money” with the names of who gave last time and how much, (very clever, I think) then finish with a few more slow tunes.

Now for a low point! One of the reasons I left the UK, was to get myself outside the “Coronation Street” or “Eastenders” mentality… Fat chance, I keep myself to myself, up to a point, I talk and get on with my Nabours, I give to the Wat, I support local events in the village, I don’t support everything, nor give money all the time. I think we, in the village have a good understanding. But as of the last 8 or 9 months I was made aware that there were elements of the village that were trying to actively get my home (which I own) and the land (which my wife owns) repossessed by the government, (for them self’s) I am very lucky, I have some good, good Thai friends, I was told this by the village Gumnan! Who has said he is very sorry, but there is little he can do to stop them doing what there doing, but he will support me as best he can should anything happen!!! Ooooo great!

I know who this little gang is now, I past one of them last time I was in the village, we past on the bridge, the little maggot even smiled and way’ed me! F***ER, it took me all my will power, (and wife’s firm grip of my arm) not to toss the maggot into the river.

Village life in Thailand! Good and Bad, up and down. I’m selling the house and going to get a Condo in Chiangmai. You can speak Thai all you want………. You will never, ever be accepted by some no mater what you do. I’m not bitter, not one bit, I will be leaving a lot of very good people behind. Sure I left “Coronation Street” and “Eastenders” behind me, only to find myself staring in my own soap opera. A Thai one.

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If smoke bothers you, then dont live near where they burn the fields

To think you can build an airtight house in Thailand is quite far fetched

I live in a village and the answer is easy, just use good quality doors and windows and not the usual cheap wooden ones.

Look up the definition of air-tight

If no air can get in, how you do expect to breath?

So your quite easy answer is not really easy is it?

You do not need to make a house airtight to keep out the smoke, soot and ash. Just good quality windows and doors so yes I do think the answer is easy if you are prepared fit something other than what usually goes for windows and doors in Thailand.

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It's great to see that you gave things another chance Lop, and that it's working out for you! I think one of the things discussed in the last thread is the importance of a peer group. Regardless of whether they are Thai or western, you need to have people you can spend time with, aside form your wife and her family.

I think this goes far towards assimilating yourself into village life, and the cessation of your noise issues. The burning happens everywhere, even in the city. Every morning I smell smoke as the residents from the moo-bans surrounding my condo burn god-knows-what. I think it's more than just leaves, it smells like they throw some tires on there for good measure!

I agree that you must research the area where you plan to build your house. Now that you know what bothers you, make sure that it won't be an issue where you build. Good Luck Lop!

Thanks Meridian007.

Unfortunately I fear that rancid smoke you smell may be from plastic bags being added to the fire. There should be more awareness advertised on television and elsewhere by the Health Ministry about highly unhealthy practices like this. I don't know for sure, but I have to assume the burning plastic contains loads of nasty stuff most likely cancer causing to some degree. BTW, a village neighbor told me it was illegal for locals to burn cane and corn stalks, it that true? Or maybe perhaps just in our village. No matter though, it is ignored and the burning done anyway. Doesn't all smoke contribute to cancer, not just tobacco smoke? Gotta believe the soot, goop and other crap in the smoke doesn't do anybody's lungs any good. It is such a shame because clean, fresh air smells so good - especially in the morning. Love that fresh, cool morning air, especially after being ionized from a brief rain shower during the night! :)

You're very correct about the need of a peer group, even if just very small one. After I finally had met a few farang in the village and we got together and chatted and reminisced, my overall outlook on everything improved. Had a couple of belly laughs at my London friend's jokes - the first time in more than two years.

Best of luck to you also!

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Sounds like your wifes family are good people Me thinks youve got it made Choke Dee

Actually that was a big surprise. I worried at first they'd all be joined at the hip on a daily basis. At first they were, with us coming by the sister's/mother's house every morning then again every evening (for more food, of course). Finally I had to insist on some distance for sanity purposes. The wife was worried about offending the other family members, but they evidently understood and backed off on their expectations. I think they could sense I was beginning to wear thin and they, not being stupid, decided they better slacken off before I decided living so close to the family was not for me and off we went for good. I think family proximity will be ok in my case, but if I had my druthers I would prefer them at least 30km away, not 3km. But I am aware I will at times probably need to press them back again.

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<snip>

I find Falang do not attempt to interact with Thais on a person to person basis, as a result they miss out on the opportunity of making friends with the local Thais, and fulfill their social needs for friends or to try to change Thais into doing things their way.

I enjoy my life as it is in my village, just like it is!

Cheers:

I would very much like to interact with Thais on a person to person basis, but the reality is we are unable to communicate much beyond smiles and hand gestures since I speak only a very little Thai, or they speak little or no English. We seem to enjoy each others presence but after a few minutes we just sit there looking at each other and feeling uncomfortable. For that reason I have had to seek out other farangs, just to be able to communicate with and to have more areas of common interest. Just a few friends, two or three are fine because I am not into group activities, etc.

I do not speak Thai, I am Hearing Impaired with nerve damage that hearing aids do not rectify. I get along on what little Thai I know and my sign language gestures. My wife usually accompanies me as we get together on a family basis and she interpetes for me.

Where there is a will there is a way!

Good luck:

Cheers: :)

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Does nobody else have to deal with karaoke parties that go til 4 in the morning?? The packs of howling street dogs on heat??

My parties shut down around 0100 or earlier..depends on how drunk everybody is. I invite all the close neighbors so there is no complaints and none from me when they do it.

No probs with the dogs, they hang near the wat which I'm 1k away from.

I do miss CM, but every month it gets easier out here in the boonies.

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If you are going to move to a village first spend some time visiting for longish periods and check you can handle it. Most of th etime the village isnt going to change for you so it becomes a question of does it work for you or can you adapt. Try it first even if it means staying in very modest accomodation - nothing wrong with that - and then if it suits jump in. It is not for everyone especially those set in their ways, easily angered, bitter about Thailand or of a disposition to drink too much but for others it can be a fine and rewarding experience/life.

Edited by hammered
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If you are going to move to a village first spend some time visiting for longish periods and check you can handle it. Most of th etime the village isnt going to change for you so it becomes a question of does it work for you or can you adapt. Try it first even if it means staying in very modest accomodation - nothing wrong with that - and then if it suits jump in. It is not for everyone especially those set in their ways, easily angered, bitter about Thailand or of a disposition to drink too much but for others it can be a fine and rewarding experience/life.

I too live in a small town/village.

The early morning noise is very irritating.......not only from the local village idiot whose job it is to wake every person up at 5:30 am with the worst music in the world, but from neighbors who seem to want to do the same thing.

It is boring beyond imagination (I spend a lot of time on the computer).

But there are some other farangs here. We get together about once per week.

The farangs that seem to be happier with this lifestyle take frequent breaks to the BIG CITY.

I think that is a major key to tolerating the boredom. (Also, if you can, live in China, Cambodia, Malaysia, Philippines, or Vietnam for half the year to break up the Thailand boredom).

One positive is that you can build a big Western style house here for next to nothing and live rent free.

Another positive is the cost of living is very low here compared to Bangkok, Chiang Mai, Phuket, and Pattaya-Jomtien.

One more positive is that you don't have traffic jams and crowds and smog.

Another positive is the scenary........lots of rice fields and mountains in the distance (completely opposite of Bangkok).

You can get on your motorcylce and ride all over in the countryside and breathe fresh air.

One more is that it can be relaxing after they finally shut off the irritating music in the morning.........but only if they are not engaged in karaoke which sounds like chickens being murdered. :)

Another is that people, in general, seem to be nice (but an anti-farang feeling seems to be spreading in Thailand.......all over).

Good luck moving to the country.

One final piece of advice........if you do move the country it might be better to have a house on the outskirts of town or just out of town in a private area with no noisy neighbors to deal with........but close enough to get in the small city when you need something.

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Early morning PA, music and chanting monks; it's all a matter of perspective.

The first light of day filters through gently shifting coconut branches, it's golden orange glow touching the highest of my bedroom windows. The expectant morning air outside is filled with the pure tone of a lady singing of love and fulfilled desire, being accompanied by delicate violins it sounds more like a mantra enchanting all that it reaches than mere music alone. After the song is sung a reassuring man's voice speaks out clearly in polite Thai tones:

"People of the village - your attention please! The farang that lives among us known as Cuban has awoken. His loins are indeed aroused and the early morning mating ritual will begin shortly. His lovely wife will manage to pretend to be asleep for only a few minutes more before succumbing to his ample charms and a little nibble on her ear lobe. Please keep your children indoors and all cattle off the streets while the local monks carry out the sanctification process in praise of their union. Using highly polished bells to ring out a noble and pure chime they will tour our village in a clockwise direction, radiating good-will and supportive vibrations to our most honored community member. After making any donations to the group return to your domestic shrines and maintain twenty minutes of silent prayer, this will ensure a serene aurora over our most blessed village during this special part of the day. Please remember to refrain from using any tractors, rice processing machinery or mobile phones for the next couple of hours as Cuban does like to have a nap afterwards."

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I've been in my village for about 4 months. I have my western comforts, cable tv,computer,normal toilet,hot

water etc. My house is a 10min walk from the main road that leads into Sakon Nakhon and is at the very

back of the village. I have a great view from the back of my house and have 2.5 Rai to wander around.

The only annoyance I have is the soi dogs, saying that, it's a cheap alarm system to have. The noise is not

bad at all. I walked from the main road the other day to my home at 6am and all I could hear were the

chickens and the sound of the charcoal popping. I do miss interacting with western people, although there

is a German guy here at the moment (sound guy). My wife is out all day in uni so I have time to do what I

want. I am now at a stage were I want to go back to work. I'm 34 by the way, so I can't do nothing

forever. Oh, one more thing, I need a wall building around my property, this would make life more

comfortable.

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Gotta be the only place in the world where living in a city of 12 million people is quieter than living in the countryside :)

hehe,you must be joking! Id gladly trade the noise of a village than that of life in Bangkok anyday:

* woken up by roosters at 5-6am, no suprise anywhere in the city

* followed by a small army of guys with speakers on pickup trucks selling stuff (around 8am)..fruit&veg,that dam_n annoying ice cream guys windup..and even the guys selling brooms make a racket..

* One tiny dog in my building barking its ar8se off, which will end in a frightening chorous of EVERY mutt in the surrounding 3 sois joining in

* trucks,busues roaring past at all hours not to mention kids on bikes who have obviously cut the baffles out of their bikes for their own amusuement

All that,all day,every day, NOT mentioning when its election times and the guys on trucks with speakers blaring.

Still with the aid of plenty of beer leo before bed and those squishy earplugs i can usually manage to sleep till 11 :D

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I've been in my village for about 4 months. I have my western comforts, cable tv,computer,normal toilet,hot

water etc. My house is a 10min walk from the main road that leads into Sakon Nakhon and is at the very

back of the village. I have a great view from the back of my house and have 2.5 Rai to wander around.

The only annoyance I have is the soi dogs, saying that, it's a cheap alarm system to have. The noise is not

bad at all. I walked from the main road the other day to my home at 6am and all I could hear were the

chickens and the sound of the charcoal popping. I do miss interacting with western people, although there

is a German guy here at the moment (sound guy). My wife is out all day in uni so I have time to do what I

want. I am now at a stage were I want to go back to work. I'm 34 by the way, so I can't do nothing

forever. Oh, one more thing, I need a wall building around my property, this would make life more

comfortable.

You have the advantage over a prison inmate in that you can walk to the end of the soi whenever you want. They however, have as much western company as they can stand. The wall should seal the deal.

Edited by Pakboong
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Hi,

I've been reading all these "live or not to live" village posts with some interest as I recently married a Thai woman whose family all live in a village 25km away from where we both live in the provincial capital.

Before getting married, we agreed that we wouldn't live in the village as the daily commute to work was too far and she didn't wish to have to live with the village BS 24/7. Perfect.

However, as time goes by, I find myself spending more and more time in her village at her insistence. I always thought that the simple, country life would be for me, but the biggest issue I have is communication - they all speak northern Thai and very little 'normal' Thai. Communication with the father in law is nothing short of painful as we have nothing to say to each other yet often find ourselves sharing a 'ceremonial' Leo, even avoiding eye contact!

I have tried to be as non offensive as possible, kindly explaining to the wife that I am happy to spend some hours there, drop her off and then for me to return home alone, then come back and pick her up 1 or 2 days later. She is pretty upset that I don't want to spend time in her village and just doesn't seem to appreciate the fact that there is nothing for me to do and virtually no one for me to talk to (my thai is above average for a westerner, but still falls short of meaningful chatter)...

One thing that I thought would be interesting to point out is the size of her village and 'amenities'... because a Thai village can vary a great deal in size and things to do in them.

For example, her village consists of one tarmac road running through the village, about 400m of mainly wooden homes. No bar, one locally operated corner shop. No places selling cooked food, noodles etc. I would guestimate that 95% of the working population (about 300 people) work in the rice paddies. The surrounding area is lovely, quite forested and hilly. There is a tiny stream theat is dry most of the time.

I am sure that some villages are pretty good in size and living in them wouldn't be such an issue. as there are places to go/things to do/people to chat with...

Cheers and choke dee tuk khon :-)

James

Edited by Jim's_a_Thai_Fox
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Some of the post on the thread are the exact reason I love the village having a masters degree from an US university, having held political office, having been employed in the DVA system, I have no need to discuss what time it is in New York or anything else going on in the world, Been there,Done that.

Life in the village is not for everyone, If you need someone else ( from the West) to help complete your meaning for life by all means go back to Pattaya, if you can make happiness for yourself out of your own element, by all means come back to the village.

If anyone can claim that life in Bangkok, Pattaya or Chiang Mai is less polluted and quieter than the village,

It makes me question other points in their post.

When in the village one dose not knock on someones door and aggressively complain about motor bikes speeding around at night, confrontation only lead to more confrontation. If one has a problem, have your wife talk to the village headman about it and if he see your complaint has merit ,he will talk to the neighbors.

One thing you need to understand you as a falang do not own your house your wife dose, no matter who she brought it from. So action that work in the West are not the actions one is to use in the village.

Cheers: :)

Out of curiosity and off topic: Was english part of your masters?? It was mine!

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I live in a small village going on 5 years now, I do not have the problem of being awaken by the speaker at 6;00 AM ,as I am up at 5 in the morning. If I had problems sleeping late (need of more sleep) I would go to bed earlier the night before, thus getting my alloted hours of sleep per night,This a rice growing village, and the whole village is up and working, a that time in the morning. I would not think of asking the village to change their ways to appease me. I chose to live there and not visa-versa. The smoke in the village is something ,I live with as part of the rice growing cycle in my area , two rice crops are grown each year,

I am the only falang in the village and I do not need other falangs so I can make friends! I have more friends than I need with my Thai friends, family and nieghbors.I occassionally see other falangs in Lat Yao and they do not seek any interaction and niether do I.

For food I like Thai food, and my wife has learned to cook Mexican food, So I have no problem in seeking Western food. also I make a lot of my own food, Kim Chee,Mayo,mustard dip for my chicken nuggets my wife buys frozen in Lat Yao, I make my own pizzas, pickled pigs feet, pickles, bacon, and have a ham curing now.

I find that village life is great for me as I do not need other falangs to make me happy. give the Thais a chance and you will find some very good, caring , understanding friends as I have. I do not go to any larger cities with a big expat population, except to Bangkok to get needed visa information from my Embassy and do some shopping for foods not available locally.

My wife has a large garden and grows a lot of our own food, we have all kinds of fruit trees that we get a lot of seasonal fruit ,what we do not have we trade with our family and friends.

I find falangs do not attempt to interact with Thais on a person to person basis, as a result they miss out on the opportunity of making friends with the local Thais, and fulfill thier social needs for friends or to try to change Thais into doing things thier way.

I enjoy my life as it is in my village, just like it is!

Cheers:

Just to add in that Thai in the north where I live - also in a rice growing area - are quite similar. I too now go to sleep much earlier and rise long before the loudspeakers. This is a town whose population is largely good, hard-working folk. I'm very happy and feel quite lucky to be here rather than stateside through this economy. My wife's youngest is now 17, and I didn't need to again (eldest of 6 siblings myself) go through changing diapers in order to have a great family life all around.

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