Engine Revision Colorado Diesel

[basjke]

Hi in another topic of mine I asked for your opinions about buying a new truck.I got the reply that I might better wait for another year or two because upcoming new models,which I consider doing.

However my current truck has 180.000 km and it seems that I might run in to problems soon.Actually it drives ok but it uses 1 liter oil on 4000 Km which I think is much.No blue smoke when driving but a black cloud when heavily accelerating.When the car is hot and I remove the oil level stick while running a lot of smoke appears.Is this a sign that it's on is way to die or can it be considered normal?

So if want to keep the truck for another 2 years I think I should consider a revision or replacement engine.

What will be the cheapest option?Can you give me some price ideas for any of the options and maybe point me to the right places to have this job done.

[thailoht]

(1) Who is the maker of and what size and type of engine do you have in your truck?

(2) Have you had any tests performed on your truck at any repair shops?

[basjke]

(1) Who is the maker of and what size and type of engine do you have in your truck?

(2) Have you had any tests performed on your truck at any repair shops?

It is a chevy colorado 3.0 commonrail turbo diesel.

No I haven't had any test performed yet as I thing the oil usage without any oil leak and the smoke coming out of the oil dip stick speaks for itself.

[Hssl]

Black smoke is normally injectors - dirty or worn, this might be why your burning more oil

[basjke]

Black smoke is normally injectors - dirty or worn, this might be why your burning more oil

I know the black smoke is the injectors,and I would love if that was the only problem.Can you please explain how they can cause the oil burn.

[proximity]

Black smoke is normally injectors - dirty or worn, this might be why your burning more oil

I know the black smoke is the injectors,and I would love if that was the only problem.Can you please explain how they can cause the oil burn.

Sounds like the piston rings are wearing out. This explains the smoke in the crankcase and oil burning. However, 1 liter of oil for every 4000km isn't bad and is probably within the manufacture's spec for this engine. I wouldn't put any money into, just keep driving it and keep up on the maintenance. Make sure you are changing the oil as is will get dirty faster with worn rings.

Has it always had regular oil changes?

[basjke]

Black smoke is normally injectors - dirty or worn, this might be why your burning more oil

I know the black smoke is the injectors,and I would love if that was the only problem.Can you please explain how they can cause the oil burn.

Sounds like the piston rings are wearing out. This explains the smoke in the crankcase and oil burning. However, 1 liter of oil for every 4000km isn't bad and is probably within the manufacture's spec for this engine. I wouldn't put any money into, just keep driving it and keep up on the maintenance. Make sure you are changing the oil as is will get dirty faster with worn rings.

Has it always had regular oil changes?

It has got oil changes every 10.000 km.I recall that when I bought it 1 year ago it was using oil at about the same rate as now.Then about 20.000 km ago I had the scv valve replaced and some other repairs which I don't know exactly what it is,but for the next 10.000 km service it didn't burn any oil.The next service it burned 1 liter over 10.000 km and now again at the same rate as before changing the scv valve.To those in the knowledge,has the scv valve anything to do with oil burning or what could it have been that they changed at the same time that made the oil burning stop but re-appear after only about 15000 km.

Also I would like to repeat my question regarding info about revision or replacement engine.

[Hssl]

180,000KMS on a modern diesel engine is really that much, i'd be looking at replacing injectors, seals, belts/chain, filters etc IE a full engine overhaul

[katabeachbum]

Black smoke is normally injectors - dirty or worn, this might be why your burning more oil

I know the black smoke is the injectors,and I would love if that was the only problem.Can you please explain how they can cause the oil burn.

Sounds like the piston rings are wearing out. This explains the smoke in the crankcase and oil burning. However, 1 liter of oil for every 4000km isn't bad and is probably within the manufacture's spec for this engine. I wouldn't put any money into, just keep driving it and keep up on the maintenance. Make sure you are changing the oil as is will get dirty faster with worn rings.

Has it always had regular oil changes?

It has got oil changes every 10.000 km.I recall that when I bought it 1 year ago it was using oil at about the same rate as now.Then about 20.000 km ago I had the scv valve replaced and some other repairs which I don't know exactly what it is,but for the next 10.000 km service it didn't burn any oil.The next service it burned 1 liter over 10.000 km and now again at the same rate as before changing the scv valve.To those in the knowledge,has the scv valve anything to do with oil burning or what could it have been that they changed at the same time that made the oil burning stop but re-appear after only about 15000 km.

Also I would like to repeat my question regarding info about revision or replacement engine.

Problems in fuel system/injectors can give increased oil consumption.

However 1 litres/4k km is not much

I would try a cleaner diesel, Shell V Power Euro IV, to reduce black smoke. It contains only a few % of the sulphur in Euro III diesel.

If still smoking, I would look at picking apart the Commonrailsystem, and replace what is damaged. Have you had Izu/Chevy connect diagnoses to spot any problems in injection or airsupply?

180 k km is only half the distance of what these engines normally runs as ambulances in 3 years, before any repair at all is needed. However they run Euro IV diesel only, and no biodiesel

[enginerevision]

Your engine just needs a major tune up and service, my advice:

- Use 2 x injector cleaner in fuel tank.

- Use engine flush and change oil to -> 20w60

- Change all belts/chains, including distribution.

- Check fuel pressure in system

- DON'T USE ANY BIO FUEL !!!

- Run it hard after flushing and oil change.

[katabeachbum]

Your engine just needs a major tune up and service, my advice:

- Use 2 x injector cleaner in fuel tank.

- Use engine flush and change oil to -> 20w60

- Change all belts/chains, including distribution.

- Check fuel pressure in system

- DON'T USE ANY BIO FUEL !!!

- Run it hard after flushing and oil change.

injectors and valves are already probably damaged (by biofuel?), so injectorcleaner in fuel could make problems worse. a full check of fuelsystem and airsupply is needed, and replace parts damaged

20w60 is not correct oil for izu/chevy diesel engine

[basjke]

The car has been serviced regular at the local chevy dealer with 15 w 40 oil.Had 140.000 km when I bought it with service book and I had the scv valve changed at 156.000 km.The next 10.000 km service it had not used any oil but at that service they poured in semi synthetic 10w30 oil which I had removed and replaced with the regular 15w40 a few days later.That service it went just to minimum at the service interval.Last i had done service at some local shop with Castrol pick-up 15w40 which I bought myselfand watched them pouring it in.

Thanks for your advice everybody but the actual point of this topic was to find out how much it would cost for a revision or replacemt engine and where to go for any of this.Reason I want those more drastic measures is that I don't like to spend money on a repair and 3 months later something else and so on for the next 2 years.So better to bite the bullet and have a complete overhaul at once or if the cost is too high decide to turn it in for a new one anyway.

[enginerevision]

Your engine just needs a major tune up and service, my advice:

- Use 2 x injector cleaner in fuel tank.

- Use engine flush and change oil to -> 20w60

- Change all belts/chains, including distribution.

- Check fuel pressure in system

- DON'T USE ANY BIO FUEL !!!

- Run it hard after flushing and oil change.

injectors and valves are already probably damaged (by biofuel?), so injectorcleaner in fuel could make problems worse. a full check of fuelsystem and airsupply is needed, and replace parts damaged

20w60 is not correct oil for izu/chevy diesel engine

I've been rebuilding engines for over 35 years. I know this is not factory recommended oil, but recommended by me, since thicker oil is better for older engines also higher mileage. With this oil it will stop using motoroil . You don't have to believe me, because I know you don't ! 10w60 full synth i recommend.

ALSO NOTE, HOTTER COUNTRY REQUIRES DIFFERENT OIL THICKNESS. If you have for instance a Honda Civic 1.6 in cold country, runs OK with 5w35 but in hot country it will need 15w50.

@ TS: I don't think your injectors are that worn, just run injection cleaner like I said and stop using bio fuel.

[enginerevision]

If you want a revision, better look for another good engine, there are many " engine shops " around, which sell reconditioned engines.

[katabeachbum]

Your engine just needs a major tune up and service, my advice:

- Use 2 x injector cleaner in fuel tank.

- Use engine flush and change oil to -> 20w60

- Change all belts/chains, including distribution.

- Check fuel pressure in system

- DON'T USE ANY BIO FUEL !!!

- Run it hard after flushing and oil change.

injectors and valves are already probably damaged (by biofuel?), so injectorcleaner in fuel could make problems worse. a full check of fuelsystem and airsupply is needed, and replace parts damaged

20w60 is not correct oil for izu/chevy diesel engine

I've been rebuilding engines for over 35 years. I know this is not factory recommended oil, but recommended by me, since thicker oil is better for older engines also higher mileage. With this oil it will stop using motoroil . You don't have to believe me, because I know you don't ! 10w60 full synth i recommend.

ALSO NOTE, HOTTER COUNTRY REQUIRES DIFFERENT OIL THICKNESS. If you have for instance a Honda Civic 1.6 in cold country, runs OK with 5w35 but in hot country it will need 15w50.

@ TS: I don't think your injectors are that worn, just run injection cleaner like I said and stop using bio fuel.

5 year old and 180k km is nothing on these engines if oil and filter have been replaced every 10k km. minor defects in fuelsystem or airsupply is causing exhaustsmoke and some periodical increase in oilconsumption.

If to low quality oil had been used, or replaced to seldom, first thing to break would be the turbocharger, cause this is the most extreme hot place in your engine oil lubricant cercuit.

This engine is made in LOS for LOS and export and Izu knows which oil is best to use

20w60 is just plain unhealthy for a modern high reving turbo commonrail highpower engine, it will not lubricate as needed, and thus of course engine stops using oil

OP I bet fixing your fuelsystem for max 20k baht and using 2010 parts managing B5 while doing so, your engine will be as good as any rebuild engine. These engines usually run 350-400k km in 3 years in Ambulances for a company I work with. No issues, just timingchain and ordinary maintance. No Biofuel though. 3 years vehicles are replaced, so we dont know how much longer they run problemfree.

BTW the mentioned ambulances replace oil and filter at 20k km only, but do use a very expensive oil to make that possible.

And I am no Chevy/Izu fan. Drive Vigo myself

[BSJ]

Oils ain't oils! As the old Castrol ad goes!

The SAE rating for winter is almost irrelevant in most of LOS.

A 5W-30 should be OK for none turbo car engines and a 15W-30 diesel spec for light diesels. But 10W-30 diesel spec maybe OK too.

What does it say in the owners manual? Thats usually a good guide. Or email an oil company help line for advice.

[enginerevision]

The OP got problems when he changed for thinner oil ( 10w30 ), like said above......

Many people don't understand, oil is not just oil. And it's bull that thicker oil doesn't reach the turbo, many high performance turbo oils are 20w50 or 10w60.

You can go from Mineral, to Semi-Synt to Full Synt, but you can't go back !

[thailoht]

The invention of 10w60 synthetic was developed mainly for use in bigger crankshaft clearances, for say a crank using alloy rods, which l did. I would suggest not for knackered engines, nobody would pay the price.

"In old design engines when wear was creeping in the ploy was to put thicker mineral oil in to quiet it up a bit and try and stop piston slap or get past the rings but the engines of today are a different kettle of fish, creating much more horse power per cc and so like your bodies blood, it must have exactly what it needs to survive."

Hydraulic lifters, overhead cams with narrow oil holes etc, must be able to flow the oil especially on startup or stuff wears out quick, that's why in your handbook it states different oils for different climate temperatures.

.

You can mix mineral and synthetic, l have done in the past.

Excellent analysis for those of us who had not mastered the mindset of transiting from the ways of the older-designed "....piston slap" engines with today's (emphasis on) "....more HP per cc" engines.

Thanx for your down-to-Earth explanation that help's us graduate to the next level of understanding in this area.

[seedy]

Here in Canada, for tractor trailer engines, pulling loads with a GVW of 65,000 KGs, 20W50 year round. In winter, if you need to shut down engine for an extended period, then 0W30.