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Engine Ice Or Water Wetter


hbert

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Yes, it is. Sorry , I cannot remember its name. I get mine from my local mechanic, in a yellow plastic bottle 0.05 L,liquid is a green colour.Maybe also find it Tesco, Big C, Makro. etc..

I'll take Engine Ice over Water Wetter and below is the reason why and the link to the full article: http://www.gadgetjq.com/coolant_replacement.htm retailer/producer: http://www.engineice.com/

Water Wetter:

It is an additive product. Water Wetter is what is called a “surfactant.” What this means is that it reduces the surface tension of the water or in other words, it allows the water/fluid to “rub” closer to the metal allowing it to better draw off heat. Water Wetter works and it is good stuff. However, if you add it to an EG antifreeze product your results are minimal. It will reduce temperatures, but by only a small amount. Added to water, you will see a significant difference in temperature reduction. But it will not raise the boil point of the water nor does it offer any antifreeze protection. So your engine may run a bit cooler, but when it gets hot it will “spit out” the coolant before other products do. That is not good, because now you’ll have less coolant in the engine. Using more than the recommended amount (4 capfuls to a quart) is a waste and it will not make any difference, only use their recommended amount.

Engine Ice is a diluted ratio of PG and Deionized water. The process of de-ionizing water eliminates all of the impurities that can do harm to your cooling system. Regardless if you are using tap, bottled, distilled, spring or R/O (reverse osmosis) waters, it can still contain minute particles of iron, magnesium, rust, lime and calcium. Many of these waters also contain chemicals, such as chlorine, fluorides and acids. Want proof? Take two different brands of distilled waters and perform your own taste test. They each taste different don’t they? If water were water, why would they be different? It’s because of the varying amounts of chemicals and minerals in these waters. These minerals and chemicals are what is the cause of scarring, scaling and mineral build-ups in your cooling system. Many also attribute these minerals and chemicals to water pump seal and gasket failures.

Engine Ice was developed and tested in the heat and humidity of Southern Florida. Tests have proven to reduce operating race temperatures by as much as 50oF in some situations. PG is a lubricant and is a surfactant in itself, meaning it has more capability to draw away more heat than EG-based products and even Water Wetter. It is biodegradable and non-toxic. It will not kill your dog, nor will it kill the plant life at your favorite track or trail. It is also legal in AMA, CCS and FUSA road racing.

If anyone see this bottle around the shops, please let me know

left_horsepower.png

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I can find "Engine Ice" in Singapore (where I work) for 35:- Sing. dollar for 1.9 liter but it is a pain in the a... to have to take it with me on a my flight to Thailand.

So any help regarding Thai supply would be great....

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  • 1 year later...

Yes, it is. Sorry , I cannot remember its name. I get mine from my local mechanic, in a yellow plastic bottle 0.05 L,liquid is a green colour.Maybe also find it Tesco, Big C, Makro. etc..

I'll take Engine Ice over Water Wetter and below is the reason why and the link to the full article: http://www.gadgetjq....replacement.htm retailer/producer: http://www.engineice.com/

Water Wetter:

It is an additive product. Water Wetter is what is called a "surfactant." What this means is that it reduces the surface tension of the water or in other words, it allows the water/fluid to "rub" closer to the metal allowing it to better draw off heat. Water Wetter works and it is good stuff. However, if you add it to an EG antifreeze product your results are minimal. It will reduce temperatures, but by only a small amount. Added to water, you will see a significant difference in temperature reduction. But it will not raise the boil point of the water nor does it offer any antifreeze protection. So your engine may run a bit cooler, but when it gets hot it will "spit out" the coolant before other products do. That is not good, because now you'll have less coolant in the engine. Using more than the recommended amount (4 capfuls to a quart) is a waste and it will not make any difference, only use their recommended amount.

Engine Ice is a diluted ratio of PG and Deionized water. The process of de-ionizing water eliminates all of the impurities that can do harm to your cooling system. Regardless if you are using tap, bottled, distilled, spring or R/O (reverse osmosis) waters, it can still contain minute particles of iron, magnesium, rust, lime and calcium. Many of these waters also contain chemicals, such as chlorine, fluorides and acids. Want proof? Take two different brands of distilled waters and perform your own taste test. They each taste different don't they? If water were water, why would they be different? It's because of the varying amounts of chemicals and minerals in these waters. These minerals and chemicals are what is the cause of scarring, scaling and mineral build-ups in your cooling system. Many also attribute these minerals and chemicals to water pump seal and gasket failures.

Engine Ice was developed and tested in the heat and humidity of Southern Florida. Tests have proven to reduce operating race temperatures by as much as 50oF in some situations. PG is a lubricant and is a surfactant in itself, meaning it has more capability to draw away more heat than EG-based products and even Water Wetter. It is biodegradable and non-toxic. It will not kill your dog, nor will it kill the plant life at your favorite track or trail. It is also legal in AMA, CCS and FUSA road racing.

If anyone see this bottle around the shops, please let me know

left_horsepower.png

Reviving an old thread!

Has anyone come across Engine Ice for sale in Thailand in the last 2 years that this has been posted?

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Yes, it is. Sorry , I cannot remember its name. I get mine from my local mechanic, in a yellow plastic bottle 0.05 L,liquid is a green colour.Maybe also find it Tesco, Big C, Makro. etc..

I'll take Engine Ice over Water Wetter and below is the reason why and the link to the full article: http://www.gadgetjq....replacement.htm retailer/producer: http://www.engineice.com/

Water Wetter:

It is an additive product. Water Wetter is what is called a "surfactant." What this means is that it reduces the surface tension of the water or in other words, it allows the water/fluid to "rub" closer to the metal allowing it to better draw off heat. Water Wetter works and it is good stuff. However, if you add it to an EG antifreeze product your results are minimal. It will reduce temperatures, but by only a small amount. Added to water, you will see a significant difference in temperature reduction. But it will not raise the boil point of the water nor does it offer any antifreeze protection. So your engine may run a bit cooler, but when it gets hot it will "spit out" the coolant before other products do. That is not good, because now you'll have less coolant in the engine. Using more than the recommended amount (4 capfuls to a quart) is a waste and it will not make any difference, only use their recommended amount.

Engine Ice is a diluted ratio of PG and Deionized water. The process of de-ionizing water eliminates all of the impurities that can do harm to your cooling system. Regardless if you are using tap, bottled, distilled, spring or R/O (reverse osmosis) waters, it can still contain minute particles of iron, magnesium, rust, lime and calcium. Many of these waters also contain chemicals, such as chlorine, fluorides and acids. Want proof? Take two different brands of distilled waters and perform your own taste test. They each taste different don't they? If water were water, why would they be different? It's because of the varying amounts of chemicals and minerals in these waters. These minerals and chemicals are what is the cause of scarring, scaling and mineral build-ups in your cooling system. Many also attribute these minerals and chemicals to water pump seal and gasket failures.

Engine Ice was developed and tested in the heat and humidity of Southern Florida. Tests have proven to reduce operating race temperatures by as much as 50oF in some situations. PG is a lubricant and is a surfactant in itself, meaning it has more capability to draw away more heat than EG-based products and even Water Wetter. It is biodegradable and non-toxic. It will not kill your dog, nor will it kill the plant life at your favorite track or trail. It is also legal in AMA, CCS and FUSA road racing.

If anyone see this bottle around the shops, please let me know

left_horsepower.png

Reviving an old thread!

Has anyone come across Engine Ice for sale in Thailand in the last 2 years that this has been posted?

Not yet...paint me annoyed mad.gif

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I remember hearing a long time ago that a small portion of rubbing alcohol would raise the boiling point, but never went to the point of experimenting.

Also heard that using a higher pressure radiator cap would raise the boiling point. I actually tried this and had radiator leaks down the road as expected, engine ran cooler though. But wont be doing it again.

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I find this thread rather amusing. I would compare it to ads for whitening creams for women. As many of the members here have some very nice high powered bikes, don't you think that the manufacturers of these bikes have done some extensive testing of the cooling systems before they released the bike to the market?

Then again, if you have modified the engine or are using it strictly for racing purposes, then of course you have to modify the cooling system also. But not with the "miracle products" mentioned above. They won't help.

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I remember hearing a long time ago that a small portion of rubbing alcohol would raise the boiling point, but never went to the point of experimenting.

Also heard that using a higher pressure radiator cap would raise the boiling point. I actually tried this and had radiator leaks down the road as expected, engine ran cooler though. But wont be doing it again.

Sorry, I have to ask how could a stronger spring on the radiator cap reduce the water temperature in your engine? rolleyes.gif

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I remember hearing a long time ago that a small portion of rubbing alcohol would raise the boiling point, but never went to the point of experimenting.

Also heard that using a higher pressure radiator cap would raise the boiling point. I actually tried this and had radiator leaks down the road as expected, engine ran cooler though. But wont be doing it again.

Sorry, I have to ask how could a stronger spring on the radiator cap reduce the water temperature in your engine? rolleyes.gif

Its about raising the boiling point, not about lowering the temperature, if i understand this correctly. The more pressure, the higher the boiling point. Same principle as in pressure cookers. Sorry if i am mixing things up. I am not good at physics smile.png

But basically i am with you. I wouldn't spend my money for products like this.

"it allows the water/fluid to “rub” closer to the metal allowing it to better draw off heat" I only have two words for this: Pure magic wink.png

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I find this thread rather amusing. I would compare it to ads for whitening creams for women. As many of the members here have some very nice high powered bikes, don't you think that the manufacturers of these bikes have done some extensive testing of the cooling systems before they released the bike to the market?

Then again, if you have modified the engine or are using it strictly for racing purposes, then of course you have to modify the cooling system also. But not with the "miracle products" mentioned above. They won't help.

I put Waterwetter in the Pontiac, did sod all. coffee1.gif

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The more pressure, the higher the boiling point

Correct. But that does not lower the temperature of the water. On the contrary, the water temperature will get higher. This is why the pressure cooker was invented.

Edited by Semper
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The more pressure, the higher the boiling point

Correct. But that does not lower the temperature of the water.

KRS1 said "engine ran cooler though". He did not say that higher pressure had lowered the temperature. Or did i miss sommething? As long as the water does not cook it can cool the engine properly. I guess this is what he meant.

Maybe "engine Ice" or "MoCool" is good for preventing corrosion and things like this. But this "cooling effect" really sounds like "whitening cream".

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KRS1 said "engine ran cooler though". He did not say that higher pressure had lowered the temperature. Or did i miss sommething?

Yes he did ("engine ran cooler though") By changing the radiator cap, he changed the point of the pressure (higher water temperature) before the relief valve would open. smile.png

Edited by Semper
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KRS1 said "engine ran cooler though". He did not say that higher pressure had lowered the temperature. Or did i miss sommething?

Yes he did ("engine ran cooler though") By changing the radiator cap, he changed the point of the pressure (higher water temperature) before the relief valve would open. smile.png

Exactly, maybe it would be the best to fix the the cap by welding it to the radiator grill. Than replace the rubber tubes with metal tubes. And than race up the mountains till it all explodes or the engine starts melting drunk.gif

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