Mitsubishi Battery Drain

[Kwasaki]

I would take it to a recommended Mitsubishi dealer in your area and get a full diagnostic computer check done on it.

There is so many electrical thingymagigs on these motors today that usually only make's it possible for a computer to find the fault.

[transam]

Sounds like your dodgy alternator ''cooked'' your battery . You are now charging OK but the battery perhaps will not accept the charge.

Hi Transam. The battery shop where I bought this particular battery in January says that the battery is OK.................. but they would wouldn't they!!!! I watched them do the check and the hydrometer readings were a bit "iffy". The float was on, or close to, the "red" zone" on two of the cells but shaking the hydrometer dropped the float to the "green zone". But ....TIT!!!

Have you got a pal local that you could borrow their battery when your motor won't start just to see if the battery is the prob or the starter motor. .

[GamLing]

Have you got a pal local that you could borrow their battery when your motor won't start just to see if the battery is the prob or the starter motor. .

Starter motor has been checked and is fine. A friend is coming to see me tomorrow morning with some jump leads and we'll start my car and take it for a reliable (!) battery check and alternator assessment. The battery is five months old and the alternator is three months old......... but, as you know, the battery had a terrible early life.

[transam]

Have you got a pal local that you could borrow their battery when your motor won't start just to see if the battery is the prob or the starter motor. .

Starter motor has been checked and is fine. A friend is coming to see me tomorrow morning with some jump leads and we'll start my car and take it for a reliable (!) battery check and alternator assessment. The battery is five months old and the alternator is three months old......... but, as you know, the battery had a terrible early life.

Well, try start the motor with your battery. If slow or will not start, pull the battery and try your pals battery BEFORE you go for the jump leads. It will tell you if the battery is the problem. You can also try your battery in your chums ride to see if it will start.

[GamLing]

Well, try start the motor with your battery. If slow or will not start, pull the battery and try your pals battery BEFORE you go for the jump leads. It will tell you if the battery is the problem. You can also try your battery in your chums ride to see if it will start.

Transam, I've just tried what you suggested. My car will not start but I can hear the solenoid buzzing. Then I tried a battery from a neighbour's car and my car started immediately. Then we tried to start his car with my battery and his car wouldn't start also. Looks like the battery.......... but, I am worried that my new alternator might be the culprit. As I said, it pumps out an indicated 13.5 volts (or just over) even when idling. But, my battery discharges enough not to be able to turn my engine when standing overnight with the earth cable detached.

What should the output voltage fall to when my engine is idling with all electrical accessories (headlights, air-con and wipers) switched on when the engine is idling? It does fall slightly to about 12.5 to 13 volts. (I have a Mitsubishi OEM voltmeter on my car).

Thank you for your advice Transam.

Edited June 17, 2011 by GamLing

[transam]

Well, try start the motor with your battery. If slow or will not start, pull the battery and try your pals battery BEFORE you go for the jump leads. It will tell you if the battery is the problem. You can also try your battery in your chums ride to see if it will start.

Transam, I've just tried what you suggested. My car will not start but I can hear the solenoid buzzing. Then I tried a battery from a neighbour's car and my car started immediately. Then we tried to start his car with my battery and his car wouldn't start also. Looks like the battery.......... but, I am worried that my new alternator might be the culprit. As I said, it pumps out an indicated 13.5 volts (or just over) even when idling. But, my battery discharges enough not to be able to turn my engine when standing overnight with the earth cable detached.

What should the output voltage fall to when my engine is idling with all electrical accessories (headlights, air-con and wipers) switched on when the engine is idling? It does fall slightly to about 12.5 to 13 volts. (I have a Mitsubishi OEM voltmeter on my car).

Thank you for your advice Transam.

Really sounds like a cooked battery. IF your chum will let you leave his battery on over night that will tell us more. Your voltage figures are OK.

No thanks needed, only too pleased to try and help.

Oooooop's forgot. I would like you to follow the positive battery cable ALL the way to the starter and look for chafing on any metalwork and ensure the starter connection is OK, not loose.

Edited June 17, 2011 by transam

[GamLing]

Oooooop's forgot. I would like you to follow the positive battery cable ALL the way to the starter and look for chafing on any metalwork and ensure the starter connection is OK, not loose.

Did that and the positive cable is secure and undamaged. I am certain that the battery is the problem, although the shop where I bought it five months ago insist that the battery is fine. But, they would say that wouldn't they? After all, this is Thailand where fair after-sales service and fair recompense aren't understood............. or just ignored, especially if their is no way for the customer to prove his/her point. ********

I've heard that the GS Battery outlet (opposite the Highway Police Station) on the Sukhumvit Road is the place to go. I'm going there now for, hopefully, an honest assessment of my battery........ but, I'm sure that I will be told that I need a new battery!!!! Refer to ******** above !!!!

[transam]

Oooooop's forgot. I would like you to follow the positive battery cable ALL the way to the starter and look for chafing on any metalwork and ensure the starter connection is OK, not loose.

Did that and the positive cable is secure and undamaged. I am certain that the battery is the problem, although the shop where I bought it five months ago insist that the battery is fine. But, they would say that wouldn't they? After all, this is Thailand where fair after-sales service and fair recompense aren't understood............. or just ignored, especially if their is no way for the customer to prove his/her point. ********

I've heard that the GS Battery outlet (opposite the Highway Police Station) on the Sukhumvit Road is the place to go. I'm going there now for, hopefully, an honest assessment of my battery........ but, I'm sure that I will be told that I need a new battery!!!! Refer to ******** above !!!!

My next battery will be a Boliden dry cell, gel, what ever they call it.

[GamLing]

Well, I finally got to the bottom of my long-standing battery problem this morning. In January, when I bought the battery that failed, the battery shop (Dyanamo-Son or something similar) fitted the wrong battery!!!! They fitted a lower power one (70 amp/hr whereas it should have been 90 amp/hr for my diesel-engined auto G-Wagon!!! This was observed when I went to another, more reputable, battery shop (GS) this morning and I asked them for a second opinion on the failing battery. I went back to the original shop and, naturally, they weren't in the least bit interested in the situation!!! I'll make sure that their couldn't-care-less attitude gets known around here. Incompetent twerps. The alternator's output is 90 amp/hr and it fried the junior battery..... the six week's of cycling from fully discharged to fully charged didn't help either. As Transam remarked.... the battery was "cooked".

So, I had a new 90 amp/hr battery fitted at the more reputable seller..... including a written one-year guarantee and I'm mobile again.

[transam]

Well, I finally got to the bottom of my long-standing battery problem this morning. In January, when I bought the battery that failed, the battery shop (Dyanamo-Son or something similar) fitted the wrong battery!!!! They fitted a lower power one (70 amp/hr whereas it should have been 90 amp/hr for my diesel-engined auto G-Wagon!!! This was observed when I went to another, more reputable, battery shop (GS) this morning and I asked them for a second opinion on the failing battery. I went back to the original shop and, naturally, they weren't in the least bit interested in the situation!!! I'll make sure that their couldn't-care-less attitude gets known around here. Incompetent twerps. The alternator's output is 90 amp/hr and it fried the junior battery..... the six week's of cycling from fully discharged to fully charged didn't help either. As Transam remarked.... the battery was "cooked".

So, I had a new 90 amp/hr battery fitted at the more reputable seller..... including a written one-year guarantee and I'm mobile again.

Great stuff. Not your grief but a solution. My ride has a 105 amp/hr battery but l will upgrade to a 135 (if it fits).

[elrey]

do you guys know the volume control knob on the steering wheel? why does the battery of it drain so fast? I've changed mine 3x in my 1st year with the car

[MoonRiverOasis]

do you guys know the volume control knob on the steering wheel? why does the battery of it drain so fast? I've changed mine 3x in my 1st year with the car

Sounds like something that's aftermarket? The steering wheel controls fitted here in TH are all hard-wired, so no batteries necessary.

[elrey]

no this is factory stock, beneath the controls, volume, select etc is a notch where a coin sized battery fits in, thicker than a computer battery so harder to find and quite a bit expensive..

[WarpSpeed]

GamLing - please post an update when you have fixed the problem I will by TA a couple of beers if it's the alternator that's draining the battery.

Good news for me but not so good news for Semper!!!

The 'parasitic drain' was located by the local Mitsubishi workshop. Not the battery, not the battery cables, not the radio. not the alarm system, not the ignition switch. The culprit was the alternator!!!!! Diode problem and although the alternator was charging the battery when the engine was running, it was causing a severe drain when the car was parked overnight.

An auto-electrics shop (recommended by jombom) fitted a brand -new looking but reconditioned alternator and my car starts instantly now after parking all night. It's quieter also!!

So, transam, enjoy those couple of beers from Semper and thank you for the heads-up.

Made my day, Cheers.

PS. It's good that guys let us know the out come to probs, really helps for future prob thoughts.

Good call T/A, I didn't see this thread but I would have agreed with your diagnosis. Dodgy voltage reg's which are internal now on the alternator can most certainly cause such a problem.

[transam]

GamLing - please post an update when you have fixed the problem I will by TA a couple of beers if it's the alternator that's draining the battery.

Good news for me but not so good news for Semper!!!

The 'parasitic drain' was located by the local Mitsubishi workshop. Not the battery, not the battery cables, not the radio. not the alarm system, not the ignition switch. The culprit was the alternator!!!!! Diode problem and although the alternator was charging the battery when the engine was running, it was causing a severe drain when the car was parked overnight.

An auto-electrics shop (recommended by jombom) fitted a brand -new looking but reconditioned alternator and my car starts instantly now after parking all night. It's quieter also!!

So, transam, enjoy those couple of beers from Semper and thank you for the heads-up.

Made my day, Cheers.

PS. It's good that guys let us know the out come to probs, really helps for future prob thoughts.

Good call T/A, I didn't see this thread but I would have agreed with your diagnosis. Dodgy voltage reg's which are internal now on the alternator can most certainly cause such a problem.

I do try.

[WarpSpeed]

Good news for me but not so good news for Semper!!!

The 'parasitic drain' was located by the local Mitsubishi workshop. Not the battery, not the battery cables, not the radio. not the alarm system, not the ignition switch. The culprit was the alternator!!!!! Diode problem and although the alternator was charging the battery when the engine was running, it was causing a severe drain when the car was parked overnight.

An auto-electrics shop (recommended by jombom) fitted a brand -new looking but reconditioned alternator and my car starts instantly now after parking all night. It's quieter also!!

So, transam, enjoy those couple of beers from Semper and thank you for the heads-up.

Made my day, Cheers.

PS. It's good that guys let us know the out come to probs, really helps for future prob thoughts.

Good call T/A, I didn't see this thread but I would have agreed with your diagnosis. Dodgy voltage reg's which are internal now on the alternator can most certainly cause such a problem.

I do try.

Don't we all :jap: ............

[Lickey]

Proves nothing by putting a mates fully charged battery on OPs truck, only that his battery was flat by some means of discharge.

Edited September 5, 2011 by Lickey

[transam]

Proves nothing by putting a mates fully charged battery on OPs truck, only that his battery was flat by some means of discharge.

But if it cranks strong with buddies battery it eliminates a faulty starter.

[WarpSpeed]

Proves nothing by putting a mates fully charged battery on OPs truck, only that his battery was flat by some means of discharge.

But if it cranks strong with buddies battery it eliminates a faulty starter.

Not entirely, there could still be a fault in the solenoid draining voltage when the car is off I've had this several times where the starter still worked fine but it had a faulty solenoid.. But ok it would show a difference in the actual strength of the motor being able to crank with a fully charged battery and distinguish it from the dead battery.

Edited September 6, 2011 by WarpSpeed

[mdechgan]

The new battery is dead.

Most lead acid batteries are not deep cycle.

Meaning if they are drained one time, they cannot be charged to 100% again.

They won't keep a charge.

Well they can but the capcity will never be the same.

The plates on the battery are in series. Meaning just one cell needs to be bad and its all over.

[transam]

The new battery is dead.

Most lead acid batteries are not deep cycle.

Meaning if they are drained one time, they cannot be charged to 100% again.

They won't keep a charge.

Well they can but the capcity will never be the same.

The plates on the battery are in series. Meaning just one cell needs to be bad and its all over.

That's why my comment on a ''cooked'' battery if it has been over charging.

[mdechgan]

The new battery is dead.

Most lead acid batteries are not deep cycle.

Meaning if they are drained one time, they cannot be charged to 100% again.

They won't keep a charge.

Well they can but the capcity will never be the same.

The plates on the battery are in series. Meaning just one cell needs to be bad and its all over.

That's why my comment on a ''cooked'' battery if it has been over charging.

Not realy sure if the battery was cooked or overcharged.

It is very rare to overcharge a battery. If it was then the acid would evap away.

More likely a short somewhere before the fusebox (usually the starter) Starters are usually unfused, or a bad alternator where a diode is bad charging the battery ac instead of dc.

If the regulator was bad two things could happen. 1. It won't charge at all and the dash light should come on, or reving the engine would put out more than 14 volts. Possibly 17-18 volts.

Anyways the battery is dead, new or not it is dead. If the alternator, starter, and wires were replaced and ok replace the battery and everything should be fine.

[denishuahin]

On 2/23/2011 at 4:36 PM, GamLing said:

My car is a Mitsubishi G-Wagon. I have had starting problems for the last few days. I bought a new battery as I thought that this was the problem but apparently not, as the car wouldn't start the morning after the new battery was fitted. I recharged the battery and then disconnected both cables immediately and left the car standing overnight. Next morning, after reconnecting the cables, the car started instantly.

So, I left the car for another 24hours with the battery cables connected and when I tried to start it the next morning, the battery was completely flat again.

Someone suggested that my car has a short which is draining the battery. How do I go about solving problem ..... or does anyone know of any auto-electrical companies (good ones) in the Pattaya area? I would be prepared to spend a few days in BKK or Chonburi or Sattahip or Rayong just to get my car reliable again.

The car has a voltmeter (standard equipment from Mitsubishi) and would that give me a clue as to where the problem lies?

Thank you..... I hope someone can help me.

About six months ago, I had the same problem, it was a door curtsy light switch. I ordered 4 from Ailexpress, changed them all, and that cured it. 
Big problem I have the same problem again, this time it's not the door switch, I have tested it with a multimeter; it loses about 1 volt every 30 minutes, i have tested it by taking all the fuse out one at a time, but it still drains at the same rate. under 11 volts iit won't turn over. Does anyone know what is conected to the power when the ignition is off?  All I can find are the curtsy light, checked them all and and all seem ok, any suggestion would be welcome. 
Denis