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The Only Way Is... Koh Samui? Sadly, Alex Garland'S The Beach Is Long Gone...


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By Jennifer Macdonald

As a first time visitor to Thailand my expectations were pretty much based on the film version of The Beach. The fiction was fleshed out with the fact of several friends' backpacking trips to hippy hostels where they watched sunsets with men in linen trousers from Wolverhampton called Mike.

Fast forward to June, when I touched down in Koh Samui for a fortnight's holiday. I was imagining 'idyllic'. The kind of scenes Microsoft offer you as screensavers. Rippling turquoise water, white sand, jocular locals selling handwoven sarongs on the beach while I ate platters of mango.

Continued below:

http://travelblog.da...-long-gone.html

Edited by Rooo
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Had only a bad day or 2 or just edgy?

Chaweng beach recently..

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nothern Chaweng beach at sunset...

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big Buddha at around sunset..

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Thongkrut Area..

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..same, same..

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around Hua Thanon (near Mosque)

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south of Lamai, just before Hua Thanon

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Chaweng Noi Beach

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mae Nam Beach View across to Ko Phangan

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Chaweng, Phru Chaweng from above..

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terribly busy, overcrowded...

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those "native sales people..

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Chaweng shore...

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I got many, many more.... sure there are bikes, sure there are roads, sure there are all these things like Subway's, McDonalds, Pizza Hut, Tesco, BiGC and the airport plus wi-fi Starbucks, A/C Taxis, large Hotels, Ice-Bar, and all that what you can find at home, but way more relaxter and laid back, if you didn't find it... well I have to say that I feel ... not really sorry..it all there cause WE inculding YOU came here - and I imagine you didn't come in a inflatable dinghy, neither did you swim...

Edited by Samuian
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Same old story...people want things to stay the same -- or even better, go backwards -- so that they can enjoy their holiday the way they want it; never mind the benefits of development (with its pluses and minuses) for the locals or their increased prosperity. And they want people to not go there -- except them.

It's understandable -- I wish I could go back to the Koh Samui that I first saw 25 years ago - but foolish and selfish. And so, so predictable.

Of course SBK is right, "The Beach" wasn't on Samui (though some of it was set there) but while it was still a pretty place at the time, the idyllic and unspoiled Koh Samui was gone before Garland wrote that book.

That's the way it goes...people have been making these complaints about various places for hundreds of years. One of the benefits of being an ancient and boring Old Asia Hand is you can not only have memories of how much better things used to be back oin the day, you can say, "Well you should have seen it when I first came to Thailand/Samui/Chiang Mai..." --But guess what? Peopl said that to me when I first came here.

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Basing your holiday on a fictional novel seems a bit dicey - particularly one that was written 20 odd years ago.

Maybe she was also annoyed that she didn't get bitten by a shark or shot by a Thai farmer for the truely authentic experience??

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Had only a bad day or 2 or just edgy?

I got many, many more.... sure there are bikes, sure there are roads, sure there are all these things like Subway's, McDonalds, Pizza Hut, Tesco, BiGC and the airport plus wi-fi Starbucks, A/C Taxis, large Hotels, Ice-Bar, and all that what you can find at home, but way more relaxter and laid back, if you didn't find it... well I have to say that I feel ... not really sorry..it all there cause WE inculding YOU came here - and I imagine you didn't come in a inflatable dinghy, neither did you swim...

Well done Samuian.

Says it all mate.

Cheers.

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Orac, I think you've hit on something here, organize authentic "Beach tours" replete with swimming miles in the open ocean with your belongings, marijuana growing farmers with guns, getting bit a shark, etc etc.

Sure to be a hit with those that want the "authentic Beach experience". :P

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The Beach was set on Angthong and Koh Phangan :huh:

You're right and there are still places which are similar. Most of those who know where they are will not divulge as they know what will happen.

The film itself was made on the smaller Koh PhiPhi Leh near Krabi, nowhere near here and there was an uproar from the environmentalists because the film directors made drastic changes to make it look as it was described in the book.

The arguments went on for a year or two but I think that it was resolved through "compensation agreements" The Tsunami wouldn't have helped.

Along with the "James Bond" Island Koh Phi Phi Leh is a place to be avoided at all costs.

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The roving reporter Ms Macdonald clearly didn't do any research before she came here on her expense account. She obviously drove straight to the part of the island to see the story that she wanted to report about, and then, as afterthought went a couple of miles either side.

Presumably she was just telling her readers what they wanted to hear, just like Murdoch and sons.:whistling:

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Well done Samuian.

Says it all mate.

Cheers.

Cannot say the same about your reply where you feel the need to repost all the pics again . That's OK, they are all in the OP.

Just boring to load one more time the OP pics.

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Well done Samuian.

Says it all mate.

Cheers.

Cannot say the same about your reply where you feel the need to repost all the pics again . That's OK, they are all in the OP.

Just boring to load one more time the OP pics.

Removed from the quoted reply for those of us whose internet is especially awful of late. Many don't realize that you can edit inside the quotes to remove the pics.

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Anyway ther is a small, beautiful islet a little out of Thong Sala, Koh Phangan, with 2 beautiful, pristine white beaches. The siland is "private" and people going to close or want to go ashore are welcomed by gunshots. They 'protect' their bird nests area, but somebody on the island says different.

This is sort of THE BEACH. Isn't it?

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"Thailand is more Magaluf than Magaluf" blink.gif

I bloody hope not, i just want to chill and relax spent a lot of time in Spain,Benidorm is Blackpool in heat, hate he place,i do not mind a party now and then but not every night nooooo have to try a find somwhere in the middle i think.if i wanted that it would of went to Spain and it would of cost a fraction of the price and a euro a pint to i bet Thailand cannot beat that?

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Well done Samuian.

Says it all mate.

Cheers.

Cannot say the same about your reply where you feel the need to repost all the pics again . That's OK, they are all in the OP.

Just boring to load one more time the OP pics.

Removed from the quoted reply for those of us whose internet is especially awful of late. Many don't realize that you can edit inside the quotes to remove the pics.

Cheers sbk and thanks to Samuian for taking the time to remind us all how beautiful the island is! thumbsup.gif

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I read "The Beach" and saw the film. It was about getting away from the touristy Thailand and going to a secret, secluded beach. Neither of which describe Koh Samui let alone Chaweng.

From memory, and has been many years since I read the book, there are some chapters set on Ko Samui before they reach the marine park. They travel from the beach to Ko Phangnan for supplies, I think. It doesn't matter too much. A great book and the reason a lot of people travelled to the islands. I do tire of the way travellers pipe on about how Thai tourist areas become spoilt etc. I think many like Ko Phangnan and Samui have improved with better accomadation, power supplies, things like ATMs which we didn't have back in the day.

You want to get away from tourist Thailand go to Isaan or somewhere, see how you like it there..

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I read "The Beach" and saw the film. It was about getting away from the touristy Thailand and going to a secret, secluded beach. Neither of which describe Koh Samui let alone Chaweng.

From memory, and has been many years since I read the book, there are some chapters set on Ko Samui before they reach the marine park. They travel from the beach to Ko Phangnan for supplies, I think. It doesn't matter too much. A great book and the reason a lot of people travelled to the islands. I do tire of the way travellers pipe on about how Thai tourist areas become spoilt etc. I think many like Ko Phangnan and Samui have improved with better accomadation, power supplies, things like ATMs which we didn't have back in the day.

You want to get away from tourist Thailand go to Isaan or somewhere, see how you like it there..

People should first visit rural Borneo where there is a far more open 'eat or be eaten' culture. If they survive three months then they are ready to sample Samui's delights.

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People should wake the eff up and realize that if they've heard about it from various backpacking friends (if not with the briefest of efforts, millions of references on the net) and both a bestselling novel and a major motion picture have featured it , it's not some unspoiled paradise.

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People should wake the eff up and realize that if they've heard about it from various backpacking friends (if not with the briefest of efforts, millions of references on the net) and both a bestselling novel and a major motion picture have featured it , it's not some unspoiled paradise.

Plenty of unspoiled places out there. Trouble is there's fark all to do at night though. The two hour walk each way every other day for fresh wayer and rice starts to grate and four hours fishing every morning and then again late afternoon if there's no bites pisses you off as well. Only so much squid you can eat.

A ffotnote to this is I can't abide squid anymore. No this wasn't Thailand...it was Karnataka in the mid '90's. I'm sure many here have similar experience. I prefer some luxury now but where do the kids go for this 'heavenly' experience nowadays? biggrin.gif

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People should wake the eff up and realize that if they've heard about it from various backpacking friends (if not with the briefest of efforts, millions of references on the net) and both a bestselling novel and a major motion picture have featured it , it's not some unspoiled paradise.

Plenty of unspoiled places out there. Trouble is there's fark all to do at night though. The two hour walk each way every other day for fresh wayer and rice starts to grate and four hours fishing every morning and then again late afternoon if there's no bites pisses you off as well. Only so much squid you can eat.

A ffotnote to this is I can't abide squid anymore. No this wasn't Thailand...it was Karnataka in the mid '90's. I'm sure many here have similar experience. I prefer some luxury now but where do the kids go for this 'heavenly' experience nowadays? biggrin.gif

Unspoiled places? Sure. But not ones that everyone knows about (and are featured in famous novels and books).

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People should wake the eff up and realize that if they've heard about it from various backpacking friends (if not with the briefest of efforts, millions of references on the net) and both a bestselling novel and a major motion picture have featured it , it's not some unspoiled paradise.

Plenty of unspoiled places out there. Trouble is there's fark all to do at night though. The two hour walk each way every other day for fresh wayer and rice starts to grate and four hours fishing every morning and then again late afternoon if there's no bites pisses you off as well. Only so much squid you can eat.

A ffotnote to this is I can't abide squid anymore. No this wasn't Thailand...it was Karnataka in the mid '90's. I'm sure many here have similar experience. I prefer some luxury now but where do the kids go for this 'heavenly' experience nowadays? biggrin.gif

Unspoiled places? Sure. But not ones that everyone knows about (and are featured in famous novels and books).

We've learnt to see 'unspoiled' as only referring to our field of vision on Samui....plenty of places. Also true even more so on KPG.

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People should wake the eff up and realize that if they've heard about it from various backpacking friends (if not with the briefest of efforts, millions of references on the net) and both a bestselling novel and a major motion picture have featured it , it's not some unspoiled paradise.

Plenty of unspoiled places out there. Trouble is there's fark all to do at night though. The two hour walk each way every other day for fresh wayer and rice starts to grate and four hours fishing every morning and then again late afternoon if there's no bites pisses you off as well. Only so much squid you can eat.

A ffotnote to this is I can't abide squid anymore. No this wasn't Thailand...it was Karnataka in the mid '90's. I'm sure many here have similar experience. I prefer some luxury now but where do the kids go for this 'heavenly' experience nowadays? biggrin.gif

Unspoiled places? Sure. But not ones that everyone knows about (and are featured in famous novels and books).

We've learnt to see 'unspoiled' as only referring to our field of vision on Samui....plenty of places. Also true even more so on KPG.

I understood you and and don't disagree. But again -- they aren't known to the whole freakin' world or they'd not be unspolied.

Never mind.

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Same old story...people want things to stay the same -- or even better, go backwards -- so that they can enjoy their holiday the way they want it; never mind the benefits of development (with its pluses and minuses) for the locals or their increased prosperity. And they want people to not go there -- except them.

It's understandable -- I wish I could go back to the Koh Samui that I first saw 25 years ago - but foolish and selfish. And so, so predictable.

Of course SBK is right, "The Beach" wasn't on Samui (though some of it was set there) but while it was still a pretty place at the time, the idyllic and unspoiled Koh Samui was gone before Garland wrote that book.

That's the way it goes...people have been making these complaints about various places for hundreds of years. One of the benefits of being an ancient and boring Old Asia Hand is you can not only have memories of how much better things used to be back oin the day, you can say, "Well you should have seen it when I first came to Thailand/Samui/Chiang Mai..." --But guess what? Peopl said that to me when I first came here.

Spot on Steelejoe. I lived in Samui from 95-98 and it was well on its way to being developed. Garland was also complaining about Samui being too commercial back then as well, hence the search to go look off the beaten path for "The Beach". It is what it is....It doesn't have any appeal to me now but suits a lot of people...

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