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Any Way To Wipe A Hard Drive That Won'T Fire Up?


Daffy D

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So one of my Hard Drives crashed the other day, there was no warning it just suddenly froze while backing up too it.

Last couple of days I've been trying every thing I know to get some if not all my data back. First I let the drive stand overnight and next day managed to get about 15min of data before it froze again. Left it again overnight then stood it on edge next day and got another bunch of data then into the freezer overnight and got some more data, and that now seems to be all the life gone out of the drive.

I got just about all the important stuff copied onto another drive but the original files and data of course are still on the crashed drive.

The drive is still under warranty (Seagate Barracuda 5 year Warranty) and I want to send it back but preferably without all my personal stuff on it. I got programs that will overwrite everything with zeros but I can't see that working if the drive is now dead.

I already know it's a stupid question but I got to ask, is there anyway of making my date unreadable without invalidating the warranty before sending back the Drive?

:(

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Go to the website of the disk manafacturer and download their disk utility. Use this carefully following the directions. If not decide which you prefer. Privacy or the value of the disk.

Edited by harrry
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cover it with magnet for a day ?

I agree he magnet might (should) work especially if it is a powerful one such as a Neodymium magnet, but I also see 2 possible side effects

  1. It may not work and you will have no way of knowing.
  2. It will work, but the results will appear to the manufacture as a breach of warranty as most hard drive manufacturers instruct you to keep the drive away from magnetic fields, and those fields could destroy information on the drive not normally writeable to by the consumer, and thus appear as a breach of warranty

If you are really concerned about the data on the drive falling in to the wrong hands, I would advise just forgetting about the warranty.

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a magnet can "destroy" the contents of the harddisk;

as thaimite pointed out "It will (may) work, but the results will appear to the manufacture® as a breach of warranty as most hard drive manufacturers instruct you to keep the drive away from magnetic fields, and those fields could destroy information on the drive not normally writeable to by the consumer, and thus appear as a breach of warranty"

I believed that the OP also used the "freeze" method

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The magnet thing will not work. First, I doubt that the field it produces is strong enough to degauss a hard drive platter. Second, even if it is, a unchanging magnetic field won't necessarily wipe media -- to really erase, you need a fluctuating field, and then you need to slowly diminish its intensity, so you leave infinitesimally-thin 'layers' in the media in opposite directions. And third, the hard drive is in a metal box.

It would probably work to wrap the drive itself in a few hundred turns of wire, and then connect that to an autotransformer, plugged into AC power, and start it up at some high voltage and then run the voltage slowly down to zero. That would probably be enough to ensure saturation, and then complete elimination of data as you diminish the field and randomize the platters from inside to out.

However there are numerous reasons why no one ever uses this to erase data, some covered already.

Speak to your warrenty provider; most have policies in place to wipe drives as soon as they are sent in.

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Put the h/d in another PC as a slave and format it.

You may have to change the jumper settings on the back of the h/d to make it a slave. This is just pulling the plastic cap off and repositioning it, there is usually a diagram on the drive of which pins it needs to cover for it to be used as a master or slave.

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Put the h/d in another PC as a slave and format it.

You may have to change the jumper settings on the back of the h/d to make it a slave. This is just pulling the plastic cap off and repositioning it, there is usually a diagram on the drive of which pins it needs to cover for it to be used as a master or slave.

I believe you're a bit behind the times. The OP is talking about a SATA drive. Master and slave only applies to IDE drives. There are no jumpers on SATA drives.

The OP also mentioned it doesn't "won't fire up", which means it can't be formatted nor could it be wiped using an application unless it was operational. So the question is, why worry about what it contains? It's not readable.

I doubt anyone involved in the warranty process would go through a data recovery process. After all it's one of many. There's a good chance that in the repair and testing process, the data would be wiped.

Seems to me, the OP is a bit paranoid.

Edited by BB1950
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Put the h/d in another PC as a slave and format it.

You may have to change the jumper settings on the back of the h/d to make it a slave. This is just pulling the plastic cap off and repositioning it, there is usually a diagram on the drive of which pins it needs to cover for it to be used as a master or slave.

I believe you're a bit behind the times. The OP is talking about a SATA drive. Master and slave only applies to IDE drives. There are no jumpers on SATA drives.

The OP also mentioned it doesn't "won't fire up", which means it can't be formatted nor could it be wiped using an application unless it was operational. So the question is, why worry about what it contains? It's not readable.

I doubt anyone involved in the warranty process would go through a data recovery process. After all it's one of many. There's a good chance that in the repair and testing process, the data would be wiped.

Seems to me, the OP is a bit paranoid.

Thanks, I must have missed the SATA in his opening post.

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Put the h/d in another PC as a slave and format it.

You may have to change the jumper settings on the back of the h/d to make it a slave. This is just pulling the plastic cap off and repositioning it, there is usually a diagram on the drive of which pins it needs to cover for it to be used as a master or slave.

I believe you're a bit behind the times. The OP is talking about a SATA drive. Master and slave only applies to IDE drives. There are no jumpers on SATA drives.

The OP also mentioned it doesn't "won't fire up", which means it can't be formatted nor could it be wiped using an application unless it was operational. So the question is, why worry about what it contains? It's not readable.

I doubt anyone involved in the warranty process would go through a data recovery process. After all it's one of many. There's a good chance that in the repair and testing process, the data would be wiped.

Seems to me, the OP is a bit paranoid.

Thanks, I must have missed the SATA in his opening post.

Actually he didn't mention SATA specifically, but he mentioned the drive was a "Seagate Barracuda" which is a SATA drive.

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Maybe I am Hi Jacking this thread but it is the same..

Any Way To Wipe A Hard Drive That Won'T Fire Up. I have an old Sony Laptop that starts to load windows then freezes..

Anyway to wipe that hard drive and reload my original genuine windows back onto a clean drive/hard drive ?

I have tried putting the disc into the DVD but on start up the windows stars to load then freezes and the light on the DVD keep flashing, even leaving it like this for 2 hours still the same DVD light still flashing as trying to read.

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Actually he didn't mention SATA specifically, but he mentioned the drive was a "Seagate Barracuda" which is a SATA drive.

Actually the Barracuda can be either, I have many Barracudas in IDE that I have had for years. With the low cost of drives these days. I would just take the drive apart and physically destroy the disc, and buy a new hard drive, as the OP states that he has recovered most of t he important data.

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To the Op, it's a matter of value. If the data is so sensitive, you can afford to buy another disk and physically destroy the one "that won't fire up".

A sledge hammer or drilling holes through the case and platters work well. Hard drives aren't that expensive.;)

Edited by BB1950
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Actually he didn't mention SATA specifically, but he mentioned the drive was a "Seagate Barracuda" which is a SATA drive.

Actually the Barracuda can be either, I have many Barracudas in IDE that I have had for years.

Yep. I have some pretty old Barracuda IDE drives still around.

May not help but you might try and run the Seagate Seatools to see what it has to say.

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Maybe I am Hi Jacking this thread but it is the same..

Any Way To Wipe A Hard Drive That Won'T Fire Up. I have an old Sony Laptop that starts to load windows then freezes..

Anyway to wipe that hard drive and reload my original genuine windows back onto a clean drive/hard drive ?

I have tried putting the disc into the DVD but on start up the windows stars to load then freezes and the light on the DVD keep flashing, even leaving it like this for 2 hours still the same DVD light still flashing as trying to read.

This is different problem. You could use a "Live CD" to boot from and then partition and format the hard drive, or partition and format the drive with another computer.

But more likely, you have a problem with the DVD not reading the Windows setup disk. It could be either the DVD drive or the Windows setup disk or the combination of both. Some DVD drives have problems reading some CDs where the DVD drive can read a DVD and the CD can be read by a CD drive. But the CD can't be read by the DVD drive.

Edited by BB1950
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Partitoning and formatting does not delete data: it just makes it a bit more difficult to read.

For a drive that works overwriting several times is the answer, using the right software.

With his non-working drive, the OP needs to find someone with hard drive eraser like this:

v660lg2.jpg

Other brands are available.

Most (decent) companies that recycle used PC equipment will have one, as will the IT departments of large companies.

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There's a lesson to be learned here … ALL drives fail eventually. It's not a matter of "if a drive will fail", it is a matter of "when". The preventive solution is to always have important data in at least TWO drives at the same time -- not one. If one of those data sources fail, you have the other one to fall back on. As far as not wanting anyone else to see your data, well, heck, follow the above instructions and store your important data (financial, porn, whatever) on duplicate drives. Then when a drive fails, work it over with a sledge hammer and then toss it away! Forget sending them away to have files recovered. That method is more expensive than having duplicate drives. You can get 1TB Drives for less than $80 USD.

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This is different problem. You could use a "Live CD" to boot from and then partition and format the hard drive, or partition and format the drive with another computer.

But more likely, you have a problem with the DVD not reading the Windows setup disk. It could be either the DVD drive or the Windows setup disk or the combination of both. Some DVD drives have problems reading some CDs where the DVD drive can read a DVD and the CD can be read by a CD drive. But the CD can't be read by the DVD drive.

It is the original genuine windows XP that came with the laptop 9 - 10 years ago [same key as windows sticker on bottom of machine] it is old and have been trouble free for so many years, being old means everything in it is old, so guess will be better to replace the laptop, now must ponder on which one, so far is down to Dell or try to lean something new with a Mac, both about the same price.

Just thought that maybe if i could wipe the Hard drive then it would run and could re-load all the Sony drivers [still have original disc] and re-load XP [also still have original disc]

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Take the drive into the shop as is to get your replacement...... either ask them to destroy it in front of you OR take a screwdriver with you and do it yourself in front of them. Don't open the drive before you get the new one in your hand or before you get to the shop. Oz

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There's a lesson to be learned here … ALL drives fail eventually. It's not a matter of "if a drive will fail", it is a matter of "when". The preventive solution is to always have important data in at least TWO drives at the same time -- not one. If one of those data sources fail, you have the other one to fall back on. As far as not wanting anyone else to see your data, well, heck, follow the above instructions and store your important data (financial, porn, whatever) on duplicate drives. Then when a drive fails, work it over with a sledge hammer and then toss it away! Forget sending them away to have files recovered. That method is more expensive than having duplicate drives. You can get 1TB Drives for less than $80 USD.

Not everyone know what $80 USD is, looking + bought last week.

2 1/2" 1TB Western Digital Hard Drives.... USB 2 was 1,980 baht or the one I got USB 3 was 2,360 baht [will be ready when I get a new machine with USB 3, works well with USB 2 in the meantime

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Take the drive into the shop as is to get your replacement...... either ask them to destroy it in front of you OR take a screwdriver with you and do it yourself in front of them. Don't open the drive before you get the new one in your hand or before you get to the shop. Oz

I had to wait for a month for a replacement of a Buffalo USB external drive though they gave me a 3.0 as replacement

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Ignore the wisearse with the magnet.
55555

Be fair I did have second thoughts about that. But magnetic fields must be changing and you would get tired waving the magnet about.

Place on a decent speaker and turn up the sound for a few hours - meat laof at full boar (pun intended) is a good selection

Seriously, is the platter spinning ?

you want to buy the another of the same unit and swap electronics board and give a try

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an easy way to wipe all information of your drive for ever is to use the hammer format it works every time with out fail.

1. Get a large metal heavy hammer.

2. Hit your hard drive as hard as you can for at least 30 times.

3. That is it your hammer format has been completed.

Congrats

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Thanks for all the answers and suggestions.

As has been mentioned it's doubtful anyone involved in the warranty process would bother to go through a data recovery process. But you never know maybe some one with nothing better to do will have a go just for the fun of it and I really wouldn't like a picture of mummy in the bath with the new baby to end up on the Internet :whistling:

For the interest of the speculators Yes it is a SATA drive.

I have the usual "Tools" disks for Seagate, but as the drive is not now recognized by the system or only for a short time before I get the "Hardware Error" any attempt to run any fixing programs probably won't have enough time to work.

It does seem like there is no practical way to destroy the data if the drive will not spin for more than a few minutes at a time, guess to be on the safe side I'll have to nuke it and forget about the warranty. Pity as I could use the 500gb and can't afford a replacement the moment. :(

Maybe that's why they give long warranties, looks good at the point of sale but few people actually want to hand over a drive full of data. :ph34r:

Again thanks for all replies.

"Ignis" Sounds like your Windows set-up disk is corrupt or scratched or dirty. If you want to wipe your Hard Drive to start afresh go to the Hard Drive manufacturers web site and download their "Tools" or "Utility" disk, burn it to CD and boot from that. This will give you the option to format and set up the HD for Windows.

Any one folowing this thread now has the urge to erase all the data on one of their Hard Drive try one of these free programs

Active@KillDisk

Darik's Boot and Nuke

Enjoy :)

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