Watts On Appliances To Amps Aviable

[haveaniceday]

How to convert Watts published into the amount of Amps used?

Below are some comments on this forum, and last night I am thinking,when I look at a kettle with 1100w, Rice cooker with 700w, three small aircons with 1100w, 4500w shower and TV and lights all going at once in this place with a single phase 5 Amp meter in this rental, can it handle it? It seems to.

But I would like to know for other planing.

In a thread I read recently, some one mentioned that a 18,000 BTU air con pulls about 5 Amps

Regarding hot water below:

"The circuit breaker for the heater is a 32 amp as required for a 6000W heater....that's why I chose a 6000W heater since my bathroom heater wiring/circuit breaker was a 32 amp setup."

"so he heater was was still pulling normal current (around 27 amps for 6000 watts on 230 volts)"

How do Watts on gizmos correlate to Amps at the meter?

[haveaniceday]

So Google helped........

So 220V 1100w = 5 amps

http://www.jobsite-generators.com/power_calculators.html

When I looked last night, at that time I was using about 10,500watts

This rental has a 5(15) Single phase meter. But I am using over 50amps.

Is something going to go snap - crackle & pop?

[InterestedObserver]

So Google helped........

So 220V 1100w = 5 amps

http://www.jobsite-g...alculators.html

When I looked last night, at that time I was using about 10,500watts

This rental has a 5(15) Single phase meter. But I am using over 50amps.

Is something going to go snap - crackle & pop?

"snap - crackle & pop", could be. The meter is severely overloaded, I'm surprised the main breaker hasn't tripped.

[haveaniceday]

The little that I know about this subject, I totally agree.

I am trying to work out what is going on.

[Khun Jean]

The first sign is if cables are getting warm. They should not.

Easy and quick test.

Something does not add up with your numbers from the meter.

5 amps is very little. Missing a zero. :)

[InterestedObserver]

The first sign is if cables are getting warm. They should not.

Easy and quick test.

Something does not add up with your numbers from the meter.

5 amps is very little. Missing a zero. :)

If the kWh meter disc is spinning so fast that you cannot count the RPM then it's overloaded.

[Tywais]

Not sure how you came up with 10,500 Watts usage. That would be 10.5 kWH which is 252 units per day or 7560 units per month and around 22,000 Baht/month using the PEA over 150kWH tariffs! If it is the sum of all your appliances you have to remember that they are not all running at the same time. Also, as mentioned, I don't understand the 5 Amp meter part.

Sounds like member Naam's place.

[haveaniceday]

You are right, I made a mistake. Just wen tout to take a pic, following the cables, it in fact.

Says on the meter:

Single Phase 2-wire

220V 15(45) Amps

Still, how the heck to I pull 50 ish Amps ?

Just curious, what does the (45) mean?

[Tywais]

You are right, I made a mistake. Just wen tout to take a pic, following the cables, it in fact.

Says on the meter:

Single Phase 2-wire

220V 15(45) Amps

Still, how the heck to I pull 50 ish Amps ?

Just curious, what does the (45) mean?

That's the overload rating. It can run 45 amps for short period of time. Some are rated for 400% overload depending on manufacturer. In this case, 300% overload rated.

[Crossy]

Yeah, a 15/45 will carry 50A all day and not blink.

Chances are the main breaker is 63A which won't think about opening before 75+ Amps.

Unless the incoming cable is getting too hot to touch you have nothing to worry about, the chances of actually pulling the maximum load is small anyway and certainly not for any significant time.

[JoePai]

I x V=W

[haveaniceday]

When you say significant time, it's those bloody useless hot water shower heaters that are the killer here, they are not on much to be honest, but hey get a work out when in laws visit, as much as they bag farlang food, they eat me out of house and home and the bag hot water but love 90min showers. I just flick the water pump switch now

Thanks for you replys.

[stgrhe]

I x V=W

Well, that is for a pure resistive load, whereas the load in most cases also carries an inductive and a capacitive load so there is the power factor to consider too.

[Tywais]

I x V=W

Well, that is for a pure resistive load, whereas the load in most cases also carries an inductive and a capacitive load so there is the power factor to consider too.

A proper device will have PFC built into it with close to PF of 1 which is equivalent to a resistive load. But being as this is Thailand all bets are off.

[haveaniceday]

Crossy said:

Yeah, a 15/45 will carry 50A all day and not blink.<br style="color: rgb(28, 40, 55); font-size: 13px; line-height: 19px; background-color: rgb(250, 251, 252); ">"Chances are the main breaker is 63A which won't think about opening before 75+ Amps.<br style="color: rgb(28, 40, 55); font-size: 13px; line-height: 19px; background-color: rgb(250, 251, 252); ">Unless the incoming cable is getting too hot to touch you have nothing to worry about, the chances of actually pulling the maximum load is small anyway and certainly not for any significant time."

Above was for the current rental I am in, but talking about the house being built which will have 15(45)meter, 3 Phase, 4 Cable and will be wired up as 3 separate single phase circuits, I am expecting there will be 3 consumer units, each with a main breaker, its own RCBO and board of CB's.

Does this mean that I can still only pull "50A all day and not blink" or does it mean I can now pull 3 X "50A all day and not blink". ???

If not, what about the second suggestion by Crossy below, "a 3-phase board wired with only single phase circuits," would that give me more 'useible' power. I am also trying to future proof the place.

"so you have to arrange for three single phase boards or a 3-phase board wired with only single phase circuits, it won't use any more cable."

[Crossy]

If you have a 3-phase 15/45 you can pull 3 x 50A all day and it won't even notice.

This of course assumes that our friends at PEA have actually got a local supply capable of providing that. It would not be the first time that they've installed a 15/45 meter in a location that really can't cope. That said, you are going to have to build a really big mansion and pay a really big electricity bill to come anywhere near stressing that supply.

The advantage that having a 3-phase board wired with single phase circuits is only that you can easily add 3-phase appliances in future otherwise there is really no difference.

[InterestedObserver]

I x V=W

Well, that is for a pure resistive load, whereas the load in most cases also carries an inductive and a capacitive load so there is the power factor to consider too.

A proper device will have PFC built into it with close to PF of 1 which is equivalent to a resistive load. But being as this is Thailand all bets are off.

I wonder what the true power factor, including harmonics, is of an inverter type air conditioner.

[Crossy]

I x V=W

Well, that is for a pure resistive load, whereas the load in most cases also carries an inductive and a capacitive load so there is the power factor to consider too.

A proper device will have PFC built into it with close to PF of 1 which is equivalent to a resistive load. But being as this is Thailand all bets are off.

I wonder what the true power factor, including harmonics, is of an inverter type air conditioner.

One would hope that such a device has active PFC and would approach a PF of 1.

I always assume 0.9 PF when rating circuits, it's as good a value as any unless your appliance tells you its PF.

I saw some cheapo CFL lamps which quoted a PF of 0.5. Since UPSs and gensets are usually rated in VA rather than Watts these chaps went back on the shelf as I would effectively be wasting half of the units capacity

[haveaniceday]

If you have a 3-phase 15/45 you can pull 3 x 50A all day and it won't even notice.

This of course assumes that our friends at PEA have actually got a local supply capable of providing that. It would not be the first time that they've installed a 15/45 meter in a location that really can't cope. That said, you are going to have to build a really big mansion and pay a really big electricity bill to come anywhere near stressing that supply.

The advantage that having a 3-phase board wired with single phase circuits is only that you can easily add 3-phase appliances in future otherwise there is really no difference.

Thanks, yeah, going to go with 3 boards, but just for learning sake, can you confirm that:

"The advantage that having a 3-phase board wired with single phase circuits is only that you can easily add 3-phase appliances in future otherwise there is really no difference"

Can also pull the equipment of 3 X 50A all day?

Goodness only knows what we can really get form the PEA side, but I live in hope.

[InterestedObserver]

You are right, I made a mistake. Just wen tout to take a pic, following the cables, it in fact.

Says on the meter:

Single Phase 2-wire

220V 15(45) Amps

Still, how the heck to I pull 50 ish Amps ?

Just curious, what does the (45) mean?

Is this temporary power? Now you are talking about 3-phase with 3 x 1-phase boards. You will get a another meter with a 3-phase PEA connection, rating unknown at this time.

[Crossy]

Is this temporary power? Now you are talking about 3-phase with 3 x 1-phase boards. You will get a another meter with a 3-phase PEA connection, rating unknown at this time.

If I'm interpreting this correctly HND is talking about two installations, one at his current rental (single phase) and one at his new build (3-phase).

[haveaniceday]

Yes correct, I kind of mixed two insulation's into the one conversation.

The rental has and I was kind of surprised with the load I pull at times when I had a walk around counting it up.

Single Phase 2-wire<br style="color: rgb(28, 40, 55); line-height: 19px; background-color: rgb(243, 249, 246); ">220V 15(45) Amps

The one I am asking about in post #19 is the house, (aka frustration attack) that we are building.

It has a 15(45)A 3 phase meter, running 4 X 50mm Alloy cables (The initial 10m is copper)

This is what I am trying to chose which way to go.

It is becoming very apparent that 3 single phase is all good. I will defiantly not be overloading it all to much. Although I have had plenty of practice in the past it turns out.

Also decided to put in a electric hot water tank system, instead of those wall mounted ones that are very hungry on power when turned on in the bathrooms.

Also means I can finally have proper hot water in the kitchen finally.

Just curious now, can anyone answer my query in #19 ?