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Posted

To make ANY chlorinator more efficient and in hot and sunny weather you should run Cl2 stabilizer in your pool to screen the Cl2 from evaporation as it's an oxidizer and evaporates readily. Most here in Thailand don't even know about stabilizer or use it properly especially when a salt chlorinator is used which is actually contradictory (professional reference is Cyanuric acid). More salt was probably needed to produce but if stabilizer is used and maintained at proper levels of between 60 and 80 PPM you can reduce pump run time significantly and maintain a very "stable" and effective Cl2 level for sanitizing your pool..

I agree with you on liquid Cl2 in normal conditions but here it's a crap shoot..

All the manufacturers of salt water chlorinators will state on their packaging this model is suitable for x size pool running for x hours per day. What they do not state are that the numbers are based on use of pool stabilizer. The average pool owner generally has no idea of the amount to use or how to apply & test. If averse to using pool stabilizer what can help is to shock the pool occasionally with 90% chlorine as it contains cyanuric acid. Sure, it will not give full effective coverage but is better than none. I feel it is always best to inform customers using salt water chlorinators that they have 2 options. Run the pool with the extra chemical addition or run the chlorinator for twice the number of hours for effective sanitizing. It is the UV rays from the sun which deplete the chlorine, besides the bathers & other compunds, so it is a good idea to run the unit during the hours of darkness to build up a chlorine residual before the sun hits the pool.

BTW adding extra salt will not produce more chlorine as most salt water chlorinators work on about 4,000 ppm salt. Running at lower than the recommended salt level will shorten the life of the cell. At this time with high evaporation normally the only treatment for the pool is adding water if running a salt water chlorinator. Of course the opposite applies during the wet season.

agreed, most chlorinators need 4-5kppm salt. less it doesnt work properly, double ppm hurts or kills cell.

Thanks again, Val,for more info,a lot of this makes sense,i stopped putting bags of sait in a long time ago but i do as you say and run the chlorinator longer,it seems to work for me..,i also put some chlorine tablets in a floater,that goes around the pool,that usually keeps the chlorine level up..

Again as I mentioned in another thread previously, tabs are good as a supplement but as Valentine touched on most do contain stabilizer which can be both good and bad, that's the rub.. They can support your stabilizer levels but if used extensively and exclusively they can cause stabilizer lockout by increasing your levels past what is required (100ppm max) therefore essentially "locking out" any more Cl2 preventing it's effectiveness. What that means is over 100ppm all the Cl2 in the pool is "absorbed" (to use a laymans phrasing) and no longer free active, available to sanitize your pool in spite of testing high Cl2 levels this can cause a green pool regardless of levels..

That requires some water to be dumped and refreshed with new water to dilute the stabilizer so to avoid this it is advisable to use the tabs in high demand times and stop them in dry seasons with less heat and rain..Using a free flowing floater is the right way to use them though, no in-line chlorinators or skimmer applications..If you have kids or pets though make sure you remove them before they swim and put them up safely out of the way somewhere a surge tank of you have one in your pool is the preferable place for them full time.

Posted

I have a pvc liner pool in the sun all day needing at least one cm/10mm a day these days. as its pvc and pump is in a fiberglass box, any leak is spotted instantly, so evaporating only. once a week barely keeps skimmer wet

I also have tiled pool in shade half the day needing less top up

Hardly the only place a leak can develop, in fact not even in the top 10% of locations as most are in the pool itself and are never seen on the surface.

if a pvc liner leaks, water will often be collected between concrete and pvc liner, spotted easily. most pvc liner pools come with a suction valve between pvc liner and concrete, to evacuate leaked water after pvc repair

Ok, not true, but not worth arguing about either

Posted

All the manufacturers of salt water chlorinators will state on their packaging this model is suitable for x size pool running for x hours per day. What they do not state are that the numbers are based on use of pool stabilizer. The average pool owner generally has no idea of the amount to use or how to apply & test. If averse to using pool stabilizer what can help is to shock the pool occasionally with 90% chlorine as it contains cyanuric acid. Sure, it will not give full effective coverage but is better than none. I feel it is always best to inform customers using salt water chlorinators that they have 2 options. Run the pool with the extra chemical addition or run the chlorinator for twice the number of hours for effective sanitizing. It is the UV rays from the sun which deplete the chlorine, besides the bathers & other compunds, so it is a good idea to run the unit during the hours of darkness to build up a chlorine residual before the sun hits the pool.

BTW adding extra salt will not produce more chlorine as most salt water chlorinators work on about 4,000 ppm salt. Running at lower than the recommended salt level will shorten the life of the cell. At this time with high evaporation normally the only treatment for the pool is adding water if running a salt water chlorinator. Of course the opposite applies during the wet season.

agreed, most chlorinators need 4-5kppm salt. less it doesnt work properly, double ppm hurts or kills cell.

Thanks again, Val,for more info,a lot of this makes sense,i stopped putting bags of sait in a long time ago but i do as you say and run the chlorinator longer,it seems to work for me..,i also put some chlorine tablets in a floater,that goes around the pool,that usually keeps the chlorine level up..

I find one of the problems with salwaterchlorinators to be how to decide if salt level is correct. Tastebuds have difficulty to decide if its 5 or 10kppm, and a saltmeter as used by some divers come at a price

barka, where did you find that floater for chlorine? I d like to try one, unless my dog catches it

Wise move, but yes becareful of your dog..Electric shock works to train him though.. ....................................................................

Just kidding people don't lambaste me!!

Posted

KBB,You can buy the floaters at..The pool shop..T/R at Central go straight down that road,on right side,just before Y junction

They are Blue/White aprox 200 bht,they are on the shelf just as you go through the door..good luck.

Thanks

Thinking of it I am sure my dog cant resist it if it floats to the sides he has acces, warp will it work properly if its tied to the left side of the pool as in enclosed photo, able to move in only 2 meters radius?

post-81971-0-36921600-1329027623_thumb.j

Posted

KBB,You can buy the floaters at..The pool shop..T/R at Central go straight down that road,on right side,just before Y junction

They are Blue/White aprox 200 bht,they are on the shelf just as you go through the door..good luck.

Thanks

Thinking of it I am sure my dog cant resist it if it floats to the sides he has acces, warp will it work properly if its tied to the left side of the pool as in enclosed photo, able to move in only 2 meters radius?

post-81971-0-36921600-1329027623_thumb.j

it will work if you put it on a steel rod or even plastic blue water pipe as long as its tied to the side of the pool ok

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