Went to Honda Pattaya and requested to flush and replace new coolant to the radiator for my Honda city, they gave me 4 bottles of coolant, and I asked the mechanic is it ok, and he said no problem, so 4 bottles of Castrol coolant into the radiator without any water, I felt strange as I was told before that coolant should be added with water as it alone is too corrosive. I checked through the internet and found that 100 % coolant without water is bad as it still requires water to do the trick; cooling, and it is corrosive too.

Is the Castrol coolant from Honda any special? Has it been pre-added with water so no water is required?

I wonder whether anyone has experience the same situation?

Coolant is designed to be mixed with water. The 4 bottles you bought will not fill the system. Water will fill the system when mixed.

Well, I saw them flushed it dry and filled up 3 bottles, start the engine for a while and filled up the 4th bottle, and it was full when I checked it in the morning. So I guessed it is full for a 1.5 L city.

Well, I saw them flushed it dry and filled up 3 bottles, start the engine for a while and filled up the 4th bottle, and it was full when I checked it in the morning. So I guessed it is full for a 1.5 L city.

Perhaps the system wasn't fully drained eh. How big were the bottles ? Volume. Look in your hand book about capacities, what they put in via the bottles and work it out.

Most coolants I've seen around are premixed,and no need to add water as they have demineralised water added already.

Don't confuse coolant with antifreeze whci shoul be added to the radiator water,but isn't used anymore for 2 decades I guess.

Most coolants I've seen around are premixed,and no need to add water as they have demineralised water added already.

Don't confuse coolant with antifreeze whci shoul be added to the radiator water,but isn't used anymore for 2 decades I guess.

Just seen Peak antifreeze and coolant on the net and is a 96% concentrate which need water!! Before moving here from US,5 years ago, they still made antifreeze, and prestone was my favorite and had to be mixed!

Most coolants I've seen around are premixed,and no need to add water as they have demineralised water added already.

Don't confuse coolant with antifreeze whci shoul be added to the radiator water,but isn't used anymore for 2 decades I guess.

Just seen Peak antifreeze and coolant on the net and is a 96% concentrate which need water!! Before moving here from US,5 years ago, they still made antifreeze, and prestone was my favorite and had to be mixed!

Of course they still make antifreeze as some countries are always a bit "behind".

Most coolants I've seen around are premixed,and no need to add water as they have demineralised water added already.

Don't confuse coolant with antifreeze whci shoul be added to the radiator water,but isn't used anymore for 2 decades I guess.

Have any idea Caltrex coolant used by Honda is premixed? I went to Lotus, look around for coolant and found a few and it was stated that it should be mixed with water.

Most coolants I've seen around are premixed,and no need to add water as they have demineralised water added already.

Don't confuse coolant with antifreeze whci shoul be added to the radiator water,but isn't used anymore for 2 decades I guess.

Have any idea Caltrex coolant used by Honda is premixed? I went to Lotus, look around for coolant and found a few and it was stated that it should be mixed with water.

I have no idea about that,but I understand that you have the empty bottles so I will be written on them.Even if it is in Thai you will be able to read something stating a percentage.

By the way in the OP you say Castrol,now you say Caltex.

Where I am in the US I have not seen Coolant/Antifreeze that needed water added for years.

Castrol coolant here is now called 50/50

http://www.castrol.c...ntentId=7023035

But I believe you can still get the pure concentrate...But I have not seen it here. (US) where I live

It is just pour now as is pre-diluted.....Dont forget to burp the system...run the engine with the radiator cap open & let the trapped air escape & keep topping up...

The're kind of hard to find, but try a WalMart:

http://www.walmart.com/search/search-ng.do?search_query=coolent&ic=16_0&Find=Find&search_constraint=91083

The term “coolant” is a little misleading. Plain water will cool your engine better that coolant, coolant is pretty much just for corrosion protection and lubrication.

The're kind of hard to find, but try a WalMart:

http://www.walmart.c...onstraint=91083

The term “coolant” is a little misleading. Plain water will cool your engine better that coolant, coolant is pretty much just for corrosion protection and lubrication.

Hmmmmmmm, so why did my Spitfire run with 100% Ethylene Glycol ?

I have no idea about that,but I understand that you have the empty bottles so I will be written on them.Even if it is in Thai you will be able to read something stating a percentage.

By the way in the OP you say Castrol,now you say Caltex.

Talking about reading the instruction, You have just reminded me that I brought back a quarter of unfinished coolant, and gees, all written in Thai, and btw I was all wrong, (did not pay much attention reading and was quite dark too) it is in fact a Honda brand, it says "long life coolant,all season anti-freeze coolant type 2. And according to the mechanic there, it will last for more than 100,000 km.

Will get a thai to read it just to be sure, maybe it has already been premixed like what you and flying said. Thanks man.

The're kind of hard to find, but try a WalMart:

http://www.walmart.c...onstraint=91083

The term “coolant” is a little misleading. Plain water will cool your engine better that coolant, coolant is pretty much just for corrosion protection and lubrication.

Hmmmmmmm, so why did my Spitfire run with 100% Ethylene Glycol ?

Did you have the Supermarine or the Triumph?

I didn’t say coolant would not cool you engine, I said water would cools more effectively. Ethylene glycol has a higher boiling point (anti-boil) and a lower freezing point (anti-freeze) but the surface tension and viscosity are higher making it less effective at transferring heat.

I do not now nor have I ever advocated running plain water in your cooling system due to corrosion and lubrication issues.

While I used to use Aqua-Kool, (a water soluble cutting oil stolen from work) and I’ve know a fair number of people that have run undiluted antifreeze/coolant and a few that have used plain ethylene glycol (stolen from work) but I was not aware that there were manufacturers that recommended it.

The're kind of hard to find, but try a WalMart:

http://www.walmart.c...onstraint=91083

The term “coolant” is a little misleading. Plain water will cool your engine better that coolant, coolant is pretty much just for corrosion protection and lubrication.

Hmmmmmmm, so why did my Spitfire run with 100% Ethylene Glycol ?

Did you have the Supermarine or the Triumph?

I didn’t say coolant would not cool you engine, I said water would cools more effectively. Ethylene glycol has a higher boiling point (anti-boil) and a lower freezing point (anti-freeze) but the surface tension and viscosity are higher making it less effective at transferring heat.

I do not now nor have I ever advocated running plain water in your cooling system due to corrosion and lubrication issues.

While I used to use Aqua-Kool, (a water soluble cutting oil stolen from work) and I’ve know a fair number of people that have run undiluted antifreeze/coolant and a few that have used plain ethylene glycol (stolen from work) but I was not aware that there were manufacturers that recommended it.

It had wings x 2

OP, 50/50 mix, preferably De-ionized water if what you bought is a concentrate but l feel you have bought ready mixed. As you said, get the bottle translated.

There are a number of different coolants/rust inhibitors on the market.

Some are designed to mix with water in different ratios, and others are designed to be used as they are.

I have seen both, from the same supplier sitting next to each other on the shelf.

The instructions on the first - one bottle of coolant : three bottles of water.

The instructions on the second - Do Not Mix with Water.

End of the day - Best performance {is usually } obtained by following the manufacturer's instructions.

From PTT: PTT Radiator coolant.

1. It is recommended to flush the cooling system by radiator cleaner in the case that radiator is dirty

2. For optimum efficiency, 1 part coolant / 1-3 part water is recommended

3. Recommended 2 years or 40,000 km. draining interval period

http://pttweb2.pttplc.com/weblub/en/products-01.aspx?id=3&lub_id=251&lub_sub=25

I didn’t say coolant would not cool you engine, I said water would cools more effectively. Ethylene glycol has a higher boiling point (anti-boil) and a lower freezing point (anti-freeze) but the surface tension and viscosity are higher making it less effective at transferring heat.

This is not true in a single phase heat transfer system. The effect of surface tension does have an influence on heat transfer rates should the water start to boil and form water vapour within the system. The same effect is evident in cooling when steam is being condensed to water.In engineering terms it's known as the Maragoni effect and it takes place in a multi-phase system. i.e. more than one phase being involved. Viscosity effect is non-existent as laminar flow will not be present. Also, there are many more salient factors that will effect heat transfer e.g. specific heat of the cooling fluid, heat transfer coefficient of the cooling fluid etc.Water is a much more effective cooling medium but not because of relative boiling or freezing points but because the heat transfer coefficient of water is 2.5 times that of ethylene glycol.

Sorry for the engineering lesson!!!

I didn’t say coolant would not cool you engine, I said water would cools more effectively. Ethylene glycol has a higher boiling point (anti-boil) and a lower freezing point (anti-freeze) but the surface tension and viscosity are higher making it less effective at transferring heat.

This is not true in a single phase heat transfer system. The effect of surface tension does have an influence on heat transfer rates should the water start to boil and form water vapour within the system. The same effect is evident in cooling when steam is being condensed to water.In engineering terms it's known as the Maragoni effect and it takes place in a multi-phase system. i.e. more than one phase being involved. Viscosity effect is non-existent as laminar flow will not be present. Also, there are many more salient factors that will effect heat transfer e.g. specific heat of the cooling fluid, heat transfer coefficient of the cooling fluid etc.Water is a much more effective cooling medium but not because of relative boiling or freezing points but because the heat transfer coefficient of water is 2.5 times that of ethylene glycol.

Sorry for the engineering lesson!!!

Thanks, it’s been a while since I’ve had anyone take me to task effectively for blowing smoke. I shouldn’t have tried to “wing it”, might be why I only got a C in thermal dynamics.

At any rate, we agree that water is a much more effective for cooling than is “coolant”.

At any rate, we agree that water is a much more effective for cooling than is “coolant”.

Absolutely

Just as an aside to this engine cooling topic....... I'm sure that you've seen that, when a Thai driver parks his/her car after a relatively long drive (e.g. Bangkok to Pattaya), he/she will usually lift the bonnet (hood) and leave it like that for some time. Why? Because they want to cool the engine quickly.

That will probably lead to problems down the line. First of all, and obviously, the engine will get no hotter as the source of heat i,e, fuel combustion has been removed (ignition turned off). Cooling a complex combination of components made up of a complex combination of materials e.g. iron, nickel, chromium, aluminium, various alloys, copper, plastic, rubber, asbestos (white), etc. quickly will lead to leaks as time passes. Each material of construction, used in the engine and transmission, has a different coefficient of expansion and will return to original dimensions at different rates. Relatively rapid cooling will cause some materials to be stretched/compressed at different rates which will lead to failure eventually. It would be better to cocoon the engine with insulation to hold its temperature ready for the next start. Far more fuel efficient and less wear and tear on the engine/battery.starter.

So, please go and advise all your Thai friends who do this to allow the slowest rate of cooling possible.

Just as an aside to this engine cooling topic....... I'm sure that you've seen that, when a Thai driver parks his/her car after a relatively long drive (e.g. Bangkok to Pattaya), he/she will usually lift the bonnet (hood) and leave it like that for some time. Why? Because they want to cool the engine quickly.

That will probably lead to problems down the line. First of all, and obviously, the engine will get no hotter as the source of heat i,e, fuel combustion has been removed (ignition turned off). Cooling a complex combination of components made up of a complex combination of materials e.g. iron, nickel, chromium, aluminium, various alloys, copper, plastic, rubber, asbestos (white), etc. quickly will lead to leaks as time passes. Each material of construction, used in the engine and transmission, has a different coefficient of expansion and will return to original dimensions at different rates. Relatively rapid cooling will cause some materials to be stretched/compressed at different rates which will lead to failure eventually. It would be better to cocoon the engine with insulation to hold its temperature ready for the next start. Far more fuel efficient and less wear and tear on the engine/battery.starter.

So, please go and advise all your Thai friends who do this to allow the slowest rate of cooling possible.

In response to your closing, have you actually tried to explain anything remotely complicated or logical to any of your Thai friends?? Let alone something as convoluted as your hypothesis?

In response to your closing, have you actually tried to explain anything remotely complicated or logical to any of your Thai friends?? Let alone something as convoluted as your hypothesis?

It's certainly not a hypothesis and it's far from convoluted. Things expand when heated and contract when cooled, but at different rates. It's as simple as that.

Yes, I have explained the problem to many of my Thai friends.... usually with the help of a pen and paper. Whether they understand or not isn't an issue but they don't lift the engine bonnet/hood any more...........QED

In response to your closing, have you actually tried to explain anything remotely complicated or logical to any of your Thai friends?? Let alone something as convoluted as your hypothesis?

It's certainly not a hypothesis and it's far from convoluted. Things expand when heated and contract when cooled, but at different rates. It's as simple as that.

Yes, I have explained the problem to many of my Thai friends.... usually with the help of a pen and paper. Whether they understand or not isn't an issue but they don't lift the engine bonnet/hood any more...........QED

Maybe it is, maybe it isn't, as you conclude future leaks made possible by different cooling rates and while redundant that is both supposition and hypothesis but still that wasn't the point of my response..

hy·poth·e·sis

   [hahy-poth-uh-sis, hi-] Show IPA.

1.

a proposition, or set of propositions, set forth as anexplanation for the occurrence of some specified group ofphenomena, either asserted merely as a provisionalconjecture to guide investigation (working hypothesis) oraccepted as highly probable in the light of established facts.

2.

a proposition assumed as a premise in an argument.

3.

the antecedent of a conditional proposition.

4.

a mere assumption or guess

On the ACTUAL point of my post you're much more patient then I am with more time it seems as in most cases I've found that would be a real waste of time..

In response to your closing, have you actually tried to explain anything remotely complicated or logical to any of your Thai friends?? Let alone something as convoluted as your hypothesis?

It's certainly not a hypothesis and it's far from convoluted. Things expand when heated and contract when cooled, but at different rates. It's as simple as that.

Yes, I have explained the problem to many of my Thai friends.... usually with the help of a pen and paper. Whether they understand or not isn't an issue but they don't lift the engine bonnet/hood any more...........QED

Maybe it is, maybe it isn't, as you conclude future leaks made possible by different cooling rates and while redundant that is both supposition and hypothesis but still that wasn't the point of my response..

hy·poth·e·sis

   [hahy-poth-uh-sis, hi-] Show IPA.

1.

a proposition, or set of propositions, set forth as anexplanation for the occurrence of some specified group ofphenomena, either asserted merely as a provisionalconjecture to guide investigation (working hypothesis) oraccepted as highly probable in the light of established facts.

2.

a proposition assumed as a premise in an argument.

3.

the antecedent of a conditional proposition.

4.

a mere assumption or guess

On the ACTUAL point of my post you're much more patient then I am with more time it seems as in most cases I've found that would be a real waste of time..

What about my 37 liter V12 Spitfire. Noooooooo water ?

In response to your closing, have you actually tried to explain anything remotely complicated or logical to any of your Thai friends?? Let alone something as convoluted as your hypothesis?

It's certainly not a hypothesis and it's far from convoluted. Things expand when heated and contract when cooled, but at different rates. It's as simple as that.

Yes, I have explained the problem to many of my Thai friends.... usually with the help of a pen and paper. Whether they understand or not isn't an issue but they don't lift the engine bonnet/hood any more...........QED

Maybe it is, maybe it isn't, as you conclude future leaks made possible by different cooling rates and while redundant that is both supposition and hypothesis but still that wasn't the point of my response..

hy·poth·e·sis

   [hahy-poth-uh-sis, hi-] Show IPA.

1.

a proposition, or set of propositions, set forth as anexplanation for the occurrence of some specified group ofphenomena, either asserted merely as a provisionalconjecture to guide investigation (working hypothesis) oraccepted as highly probable in the light of established facts.

2.

a proposition assumed as a premise in an argument.

3.

the antecedent of a conditional proposition.

4.

a mere assumption or guess

On the ACTUAL point of my post you're much more patient then I am with more time it seems as in most cases I've found that would be a real waste of time..

What about my 37 liter V12 Spitfire. Noooooooo water ?

Wow, that's a big engine.

What about it? No one has said EG will not cool the engine.

BUT, no water.

I think we're all clear on that, but for those that still might not be, the monster-block Spitfire's engine will run using only (i.e. NO WATER) ethylene glycol in the cooling system.

I think we're all clear on that, but for those that still might not be, the monster-block Spitfire's engine will run using only (i.e. NO WATER) ethylene glycol in the cooling system.

But why ? If water is better then why a Chemical. ?

I think we're all clear on that, but for those that still might not be, the monster-block Spitfire's engine will run using only (i.e. NO WATER) ethylene glycol in the cooling system.

Is this 100% coolant concentrate?