Crack On Wall Of Car Tyre

[Lickey]

OP, first thing is check the depths of the cracks, the pictured cracks are in the very thickest of the tyre, the shoulder, if the cracks are over 3mm deep, yes, change tyre,

If you have your own reliable tyre pressure gauge, and car handbook, make sure the pressures are right, the cracks you have can be over/under inflation and hard/fast driving/conering ect, this is when the shoulder works the most,

These cracks are not caused by whacking a kerb or bouncing over potholes, if so, there would be scuff marks which are not apparant on your pics,

It looks like the tyre still has plenty of tread on it, perhaps have the wheels swapped front to back, with balance and pressures adjusted acordingly,

[BSJ]

Wouldn't it be smarter to go to a tyre garage and get a new one ASAP before something bad happens?

[LennyW]

OP, first thing is check the depths of the cracks, the pictured cracks are in the very thickest of the tyre, the shoulder, if the cracks are over 3mm deep, yes, change tyre,

If you have your own reliable tyre pressure gauge, and car handbook, make sure the pressures are right, the cracks you have can be over/under inflation and hard/fast driving/conering ect, this is when the shoulder works the most,

These cracks are not caused by whacking a kerb or bouncing over potholes, if so, there would be scuff marks which are not apparant on your pics,

It looks like the tyre still has plenty of tread on it, perhaps have the wheels swapped front to back, with balance and pressures adjusted acordingly,

Please don't post nonsense like this when such a safety issue is critical.

[transam]

OP, first thing is check the depths of the cracks, the pictured cracks are in the very thickest of the tyre, the shoulder, if the cracks are over 3mm deep, yes, change tyre,

If you have your own reliable tyre pressure gauge, and car handbook, make sure the pressures are right, the cracks you have can be over/under inflation and hard/fast driving/conering ect, this is when the shoulder works the most,

These cracks are not caused by whacking a kerb or bouncing over potholes, if so, there would be scuff marks which are not apparant on your pics,

It looks like the tyre still has plenty of tread on it, perhaps have the wheels swapped front to back, with balance and pressures adjusted acordingly,

The tyre in question would fail an annual UK Ministry of Transport test. It is illegal to even repair a simple nail puncture in the side wall of a tyre. In fact, one would get a ticket from a cop. Edited August 8, 2012 by transam

[Kwasaki]

Being a noob on reading tyres but I can't seem to find the date. 

My suggestion would be to buy two tyres of the same make for the front, the one good one left keep as a spare and sell the spare one back to the tyre shop they will give you something for it.

Date on tyres is good to check when buying.

Tyres have a DOT on sidewalls which is the production date e.g. 3011 – the tyre was manufactured in the 30th week of 2011.

" Many automakers recommend replacing tires after six years, and several tire manufacturers Bridgestone, Michelin have called for tires to be removed from service 10 years after the date of manufacture."

[nicgwee]

Yeah, the tyre in question was manufacture in 3011 which work out to be 2nd week of July. But I got my car in like end July to first week of aug 2011. Is it possible for the tyre to be manufacture and sent to honda which in turn delivers the car to us in such a short time??

[Kwasaki]

Yeah, the tyre in question was manufacture in 3011 which work out to be 2nd week of July. But I got my car in like end July to first week of aug 2011. Is it possible for the tyre to be manufacture and sent to honda which in turn delivers the car to us in such a short time??

Why not !!! Goodyear make tyres in Thailand.

[necronx99]

As has been pointed out, there is a large impact divot at the start of the crack, you most likely ran into a sharp rock embedded in a pothole or some such. Your tire itself looks in rough condition suggesting incorrect pressure or careless driving on rough roads.

Buy two new ones for the front, other fron to spare and ditch the mismatched tire on your current spare.

They will probably give you a few baht for it.

[nicgwee]

Just change 2 tyre to the same model. Cost me 2800/tyre. Am I getting ripped? As for the spare, its smaller so I think even if I want to change, the spare rim would not fit. Am I right on that?

[transam]

Sounds good to me but your good front tyre should have been put on the spare. They would have given you a few baht for the small spare tyre.

BUT, you and yours are now safe.

Edited August 8, 2012 by transam

[Lickey]

OP, first thing is check the depths of the cracks, the pictured cracks are in the very thickest of the tyre, the shoulder, if the cracks are over 3mm deep, yes, change tyre,

If you have your own reliable tyre pressure gauge, and car handbook, make sure the pressures are right, the cracks you have can be over/under inflation and hard/fast driving/conering ect, this is when the shoulder works the most,

These cracks are not caused by whacking a kerb or bouncing over potholes, if so, there would be scuff marks which are not apparant on your pics,

It looks like the tyre still has plenty of tread on it, perhaps have the wheels swapped front to back, with balance and pressures adjusted acordingly,

The tyre in question would fail an annual UK Ministry of Transport test. It is illegal to even repair a simple nail puncture in the side wall of a tyre. In fact, one would get a ticket from a cop.

You know so very little dont you, why dont you check before you post crap,

a. A tyre has a cut the length of which is in excess of 25 mm or 10% of section width, whichever is greater, deep enough to reach the ply or cords

b. a tyre has

· a lump, bulge or tear caused by separation or partial failure of its structure. This includes any lifting of the tread rubber

· any of its ply or cord exposed

c. a recut tyre fitted to a vehicle not permitted to be so equipped

d. a tyre incorrectly seated on the wheel rim

e. a seriously damaged or misaligned valve stem which could cause sudden deflation of the tyre

f. a tyre not fitted in compliance with the manufacturers sidewall instruction, e.g. an asymmetric with a sidewall marked ‘outer’ fitted with the marking to the inner side of the wheel.

Note: Direction of rotation may be indicated by an arrow and/or words, but an arrow by itself should not be taken to indicate direction of rotation.

2.

A tyre fouling a part of the vehicle.

Note: A vehicle should only be rejected if the tyre is actually fouling a part of the vehicle. Evidence of fouling e.g. due to tyre flexing or suspension movement is not a Reason for Rejection.

3.

Tyres on twin wheels making wall contact due to under-inflation or incorrect fitment.

Note: Some tyres, e.g. radial ply tyres, with flexible side walls may touch under load. Wall contact in these circumstances is not a reason for rejection.

4.

A tyre pressure monitoring system warning lamp:

. inoperative

. indicating a system malfunction.

4.1 Tyres (Tread Pattern, Breadth and Depth)

Tread

A tread pattern is the combination of plain surfaces and grooves extending across the breadth of the tread and round the entire circumference.

The tread pattern excludes any tie-bars, tread wear indicators, or features designed to wear out substantially before the remainder of the pattern, and other minor features. Grooves that had not been cut as deep as those containing the wear indicators when new, are not to be considered as part of the tread pattern.

Breadth of Tread

The part of the tyre which can contact the road under normal conditions of use measured at 90 degrees to the peripheral line of the tread.

A 1.6 minimum tread depth applies to

A vehicle first used after 2 January 1933 that is either

a. a passenger carrying vehicle (car, motor caravan etc) with not more than 8 passenger seats, excluding the driver’s, or

b. a goods vehicle or dual purpose vehicle not exceeding 3500 kg maximum gross weight

Tricycle and quadricycle requirements are detailed at Section 9.4.

A 1.0mm minimum tread depth applies to

· A passenger-carrying vehicle with more than 8 passenger seats excluding the driver’s seat

· A vehicle first used before 3 January 1933.

E. Tread Pattern Breadth and Depth

1.6 mm tread depth

1. Check the tread pattern over the complete circumference of the tyre. Check also that the tread depth meets the requirements using, as necessary, a depth gauge accepted for MOT testing.

1. The grooves of the tread pattern are not at least 1.6mm throughout a continuous band comprising

. the central three-quarters of the breadth of tread, and

. round the entire outer circumference of the tyre

Note: Each side of the central band of the tyre can be devoid of tread (ie. ‘bald’) and still meet the pass. See diagram below

1.0 mm tread depth

2. Check the tread pattern over the complete circumference of the tyre. Check also that the tread depth meets the requirements using, as necessary, a depth gauge accepted for MOT testing.

2. A tyre with a tread pattern

a. not visible over the whole tread area, and

b. the depth of which is not at least 1mm throughout a single band

· round the entire outer circumference of the tyre

· of at least three-quarters of the breadth of tread.

Note: The 1.0mm tread depth requirement applies to the whole tread width if the original tread pattern did not extend beyond three-quarters of the tyre width when new.

Issue Date: 01 January 2012

[transam]

OP, first thing is check the depths of the cracks, the pictured cracks are in the very thickest of the tyre, the shoulder, if the cracks are over 3mm deep, yes, change tyre,

If you have your own reliable tyre pressure gauge, and car handbook, make sure the pressures are right, the cracks you have can be over/under inflation and hard/fast driving/conering ect, this is when the shoulder works the most,

These cracks are not caused by whacking a kerb or bouncing over potholes, if so, there would be scuff marks which are not apparant on your pics,

It looks like the tyre still has plenty of tread on it, perhaps have the wheels swapped front to back, with balance and pressures adjusted acordingly,

The tyre in question would fail an annual UK Ministry of Transport test. It is illegal to even repair a simple nail puncture in the side wall of a tyre. In fact, one would get a ticket from a cop.

You know so very little dont you, why dont you check before you post crap,

a. A tyre has a cut the length of which is in excess of 25 mm or 10% of section width, whichever is greater, deep enough to reach the ply or cords

b. a tyre has

· a lump, bulge or tear caused by separation or partial failure of its structure. This includes any lifting of the tread rubber

· any of its ply or cord exposed

c. a recut tyre fitted to a vehicle not permitted to be so equipped

d. a tyre incorrectly seated on the wheel rim

e. a seriously damaged or misaligned valve stem which could cause sudden deflation of the tyre

f. a tyre not fitted in compliance with the manufacturers sidewall instruction, e.g. an asymmetric with a sidewall marked ‘outer’ fitted with the marking to the inner side of the wheel.

Note: Direction of rotation may be indicated by an arrow and/or words, but an arrow by itself should not be taken to indicate direction of rotation.

2.

A tyre fouling a part of the vehicle.

Note: A vehicle should only be rejected if the tyre is actually fouling a part of the vehicle. Evidence of fouling e.g. due to tyre flexing or suspension movement is not a Reason for Rejection.

3.

Tyres on twin wheels making wall contact due to under-inflation or incorrect fitment.

Note: Some tyres, e.g. radial ply tyres, with flexible side walls may touch under load. Wall contact in these circumstances is not a reason for rejection.

4.

A tyre pressure monitoring system warning lamp:

. inoperative

. indicating a system malfunction.

4.1 Tyres (Tread Pattern, Breadth and Depth)

Tread

A tread pattern is the combination of plain surfaces and grooves extending across the breadth of the tread and round the entire circumference.

The tread pattern excludes any tie-bars, tread wear indicators, or features designed to wear out substantially before the remainder of the pattern, and other minor features. Grooves that had not been cut as deep as those containing the wear indicators when new, are not to be considered as part of the tread pattern.

Breadth of Tread

The part of the tyre which can contact the road under normal conditions of use measured at 90 degrees to the peripheral line of the tread.

A 1.6 minimum tread depth applies to

A vehicle first used after 2 January 1933 that is either

a. a passenger carrying vehicle (car, motor caravan etc) with not more than 8 passenger seats, excluding the driver’s, or

b. a goods vehicle or dual purpose vehicle not exceeding 3500 kg maximum gross weight

Tricycle and quadricycle requirements are detailed at Section 9.4.

A 1.0mm minimum tread depth applies to

· A passenger-carrying vehicle with more than 8 passenger seats excluding the driver’s seat

· A vehicle first used before 3 January 1933.

E. Tread Pattern Breadth and Depth

1.6 mm tread depth

1. Check the tread pattern over the complete circumference of the tyre. Check also that the tread depth meets the requirements using, as necessary, a depth gauge accepted for MOT testing.

1. The grooves of the tread pattern are not at least 1.6mm throughout a continuous band comprising

. the central three-quarters of the breadth of tread, and

. round the entire outer circumference of the tyre

Note: Each side of the central band of the tyre can be devoid of tread (ie. ‘bald’) and still meet the pass. See diagram below

1.0 mm tread depth

2. Check the tread pattern over the complete circumference of the tyre. Check also that the tread depth meets the requirements using, as necessary, a depth gauge accepted for MOT testing.

2. A tyre with a tread pattern

a. not visible over the whole tread area, and

b. the depth of which is not at least 1mm throughout a single band

· round the entire outer circumference of the tyre

· of at least three-quarters of the breadth of tread.

Note: The 1.0mm tread depth requirement applies to the whole tread width if the original tread pattern did not extend beyond three-quarters of the tyre width when new.

Issue Date: 01 January 2012

Looks like you have downloaded Heavy Goods Vehicle stuff. We are dealing with grocery getters here.

[Lickey]

That is why i said check the depth of the crack, its on the shoulder, the very thickest part of the tyre, it can be repaired but i dont suppose that technology has reached Thailand yet, if it doesnt reach the cords or has caused an undue bulge in the tyre, it is NOT an mot failure, and if the OP is worried about it, thats why i said move it to the back, less stress ect, and to get the full life out of the tyre, even as a spare, rather than keep an undersize tyre that would be an Mot faliure if fitted,

[overherebc]

That is why i said check the depth of the crack, its on the shoulder, the very thickest part of the tyre, it can be repaired but i dont suppose that technology has reached Thailand yet, if it doesnt reach the cords or has caused an undue bulge in the tyre, it is NOT an mot failure, and if the OP is worried about it, thats why i said move it to the back, less stress ect, and to get the full life out of the tyre, even as a spare, rather than keep an undersize tyre that would be an Mot faliure if fitted,

My mother in law in Bangkok needs a new driver for her S500. Please don't apply.

[Lickey]

That is why i said check the depth of the crack, its on the shoulder, the very thickest part of the tyre, it can be repaired but i dont suppose that technology has reached Thailand yet, if it doesnt reach the cords or has caused an undue bulge in the tyre, it is NOT an mot failure, and if the OP is worried about it, thats why i said move it to the back, less stress ect, and to get the full life out of the tyre, even as a spare, rather than keep an undersize tyre that would be an Mot faliure if fitted,

My mother in law in Bangkok needs a new driver for her S500. Please don't apply.

Thankyou very much for your informative post, and next along will be TA with a stupid 3 word reply to add to his 12000 other equally useless posts with the usual smileys, anybody agree with this??

[namoi]

here in AUS I do a lot of towing with my caravan, a lot of dirt and also bad roads, I always put my new tyres on the front in pairs as I would much rather blow a front tyre than a rear, much easier to control, IMHO anyway

[hedonist44]

That is why i said check the depth of the crack, its on the shoulder, the very thickest part of the tyre, it can be repaired but i dont suppose that technology has reached Thailand yet, if it doesnt reach the cords or has caused an undue bulge in the tyre, it is NOT an mot failure, and if the OP is worried about it, thats why i said move it to the back, less stress ect, and to get the full life out of the tyre, even as a spare, rather than keep an undersize tyre that would be an Mot faliure if fitted,

My mother in law in Bangkok needs a new driver for her S500. Please don't apply.

Thankyou very much for your informative post, and next along will be TA with a stupid 3 word reply to add to his 12000 other equally useless posts with the usual smileys, anybody agree with this??

No I don't agree. So, you're telling all of us that you would feel fine putting that tire on YOUR car and driving around with you're family, friends or pet in it? No need to start bashing me as well as the others, I'm just asking a simple yes or no answer.

[transam]

Mr. Lickey, it seems you are vastly out numbered by members here regarding tyre safety stuff .

Your information is DANGEROUS regarding a small radial tyre with very thin side walls. Put your glasses on and go back to look at the photo again and where the split is going and will CONTINUE on it's journey with use.

As for my 12,000 ''useless'' posts, l find that a bit of an insult as your posts are mainly misinformation. As for smiley's, why do you think they are provided.

[Kwasaki]

Just change 2 tyre to the same model. Cost me 2800/tyre. Am I getting ripped? As for the spare, its smaller so I think even if I want to change, the spare rim would not fit. Am I right on that?

While everyone is leading off, I will answer you I very much doubt that the spare would be a different rim size it was only the tyre width that was different 175 - 185.

[namoi]

here in AUS I do a lot of towing with my caravan, a lot of dirt and also bad roads, I always put my new tyres on the front in pairs as I would much rather blow a front tyre than a rear, much easier to control, IMHO anyway

duh! what am I saying, changed tyres 4 days ago, I put the NEW tyres on the back, the older on the steer, for the reason i stated......

[funcat]

here in AUS I do a lot of towing with my caravan, a lot of dirt and also bad roads, I always put my new tyres on the front in pairs as I would much rather blow a front tyre than a rear, much easier to control, IMHO anyway

duh! what am I saying, changed tyres 4 days ago, I put the NEW tyres on the back, the older on the steer, for the reason i stated......

...duh...."some fish like to swim against the current"....but if it's front wheel drive Honda,I'll put the new tires in front...

[namoi]

here in AUS I do a lot of towing with my caravan, a lot of dirt and also bad roads, I always put my new tyres on the front in pairs as I would much rather blow a front tyre than a rear, much easier to control, IMHO anyway

duh! what am I saying, changed tyres 4 days ago, I put the NEW tyres on the back, the older on the steer, for the reason i stated......

...duh...."some fish like to swim against the current"....but if it's front wheel drive Honda,I'll put the new tires in front...

get a 3tonne van up your a## and blow a rear tyre as I have done mate, the only time I was on the road was as I was crossing it, but what would I know as I have only experianced it once, and a lot more of far better drivers than I am do the same here, as for your front wheel drive keep to the city drivin, take you for a run in a/b tripple with a load of cattle when you like..........

Edited August 9, 2012 by namoi

[funcat]

here in AUS I do a lot of towing with my caravan, a lot of dirt and also bad roads, I always put my new tyres on the front in pairs as I would much rather blow a front tyre than a rear, much easier to control, IMHO anyway

duh! what am I saying, changed tyres 4 days ago, I put the NEW tyres on the back, the older on the steer, for the reason i stated......

...duh...."some fish like to swim against the current"....but if it's front wheel drive Honda,I'll put the new tires in front...

get a 3tonne van up your a## and blow a rear tyre as I have done mate, the only time I was on the road was as I was crossing it, but what would I know as I have only experianced it once, and a lot more of far better drivers than I am do the same here, as for your front wheel drive keep to the city drivin, take you for a run in a/b tripple with a load of cattle when you like..........

...not taking out anything from your experience in Aus...but we are talking about a cracked tire in the front wheel drive Honda and your comment could of be taken wrongly here

...so to the OP,if you haven't done it yet take an advise that has been given already...and change two front tires for new,which is a most safe thing to do in this case

[nicgwee]

Yes, thanks for all the valuable advice. I had change 2 tyres and place it in front. Wouldnt risk a blow tyre in the middle of Thai road where almost everyone seems to be a F1 driver.

[WarpSpeed]

My rim is alright. Just the tyre only. There is one more minor crack on the same tyre. Just that this crack is getting me worried. I don't recall hitting any kerb but I may be wrong. As for potholes, yeah. The place I am staying got tons of it. Well, in Thailand, I think it's common. Another question, how much does a set of tyres cost on average? I would prefer GoodYear/michelin or is there others to recommend for driving in thailand? Tyre type/size is 16*6j

Definately curb or pothole... GF maybe?

[TommoPhysicist]

My rim is alright. Just the tyre only. There is one more minor crack on the same tyre. Just that this crack is getting me worried. I don't recall hitting any kerb but I may be wrong. As for potholes, yeah. The place I am staying got tons of it. Well, in Thailand, I think it's common. Another question, how much does a set of tyres cost on average? I would prefer GoodYear/michelin or is there others to recommend for driving in thailand? Tyre type/size is 16*6j

Definately curb or pothole... GF maybe?

Michelin 195R14 Light Truck 2,800bht each fitted/balanced, if that's any help.