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greg71

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'Some updates:

Tranny is really loud and not as smooth as the one in cbr250 somehow. Clunky and you need to make an effort to shift. It is fine at exact rpms but mostly hard to shift. Similar of kawa tranny i rode on er6f.'

Strange, all the 650s i have ridden have been super smooth and quiet when shifting..... 1st - 2nd was a little cluncky but that's the case with most bikes.

No problems at all shifting at any road - engine speed, it's no supersport gearbox but i wouldn't compare it to a 'loud & cluncky CBR500 gearbox'.... smile.png

I was with norman w today and is bike er6 seemed to shift quite.nicely.

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Well I never said it stalls at 5000 rpm, today I went to 8000 on 3rd gear. However mine is less than smooth these vibrations still there but less intense today. Called bigwing today they said shift below 5000 it's too much for a new bike. Wait until it gets over 1000 km. really ? 5k is too much? Also guy said it is expected to have vibrations.

Is there anyone around chiang rai with same bike? I already done 250km lol in 2 days. I will keep an eye on it, by the end of the month I should hit 1000 km when I go in for a service I will ask them to check all that.

Also loserlazer howdo u find suspension on the bumpy road? Mine is quite harsh:(

I found suspensions quite ok superior. But it depends on people and taste.

I change the oil and oil filter today at 140 km and bike runs well. No disturbing vibrations. Keep in mind though, this is a square twin cylinder not an inline four so of course there will be some vibrations.

They washed the bike after service and they refuse the generous tip in Japanese style as the head of mechanics told me that it is forbidden to take:lol:

Even the toilets have japanese style full electronic ass washers:D

By the way, i can confirm that, cbr500 redlines at 9000 - 9100 rpm definitely.

Sent from my GT-N7100 using Thaivisa Connect App

Where do you live? Btw whats the mileage on yours

I live in bangkok and now it has passed 220 km.

Some updates:

Tranny is really loud and not as smooth as the one in cbr250 somehow. Clunky and you need to make an effort to shift. It is fine at exact rpms but mostly hard to shift. Similar of kawa tranny i rode on er6f. I need time with it maybe but normally i do not. But it is a honda style positive and reliable tranny. No misshifts and can find neutral like a breeze.

Now i am hearing a whine while revving on 1st and 2nd gears only. It was not there before.

But vibrations factor is still fine. Bike is smooth. Smoother than kawa 650s for sure.

And engine gets hot super fast and does not get cold fast. Especially on traffic. Even some parts of fairings were super hot yesterday on saturday traffic but not the seat god bless! Cooling fan works like a vacuum cleaner. A little loud man.

Superior does your bike get hot fast?

Now can lean more as tires get trusty but could not scratch the pegs yet:lol:

Now bikes accelerates fast and rev quicker. But man, what a torque. From 1300 rpm!

I might put a gear indicator as i forget which gear i am due to the high torque.

I love to ride it!

There is no substitute for displacement clearly.

Sent from my GT-N7100 using Thaivisa Connect App

Sio you took it for a service already? They told me to come over at a 1000. In regard to the temperature i drove it from chiang mai to chiang rai and it wasnt that hot. Today however i was wearing shorts and noticed the warmth coming out specially on the left side after 5-10mins driving. But it stayed as warmth not hot. I did hear fan working really loud only after i came back to chiang rai and switched on the bike to show to my friend.

Gear changes are so flipping loud though, sometimes however the are very soft and smooth i think it depends on revs i still cannot find the optimum rpms for shifting. I had problems getting into first from neautral since i left bigwing sometimes it wont go down when i press down shift with my foot, i have to either roll bike backwards a bit or apply a bit or accelerator while holding clutch, not it happens less often but still. Btw does your accelerator got a bit of roll "give" before it gives power? You can even switch off engine s d just use 2 fingers and wiggle it up down before it stops if you know what i mean. Is it normal iam still getting used to it as on 1st sometimes it is jerky, too much power coming out:)

Edited by sup3r1or
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Sio you took it for a service already? They told me to come over at a 1000. In regard to the temperature i drove it from chiang mai to chiang rai and it wasnt that hot. Today however i was wearing shorts and noticed the warmth coming out specially on the left side after 5-10mins driving. But it stayed as warmth not hot. I did hear fan working really loud only after i came back to chiang rai and switched on the bike to show to my friend.

Gear changes are so flipping loud though, sometimes however the are very soft and smooth i think it depends on revs i still cannot find the optimum rpms for shifting. I had problems getting into first from neautral since i left bigwing sometimes it wont go down when i press down shift with my foot, i have to either roll bike backwards a bit or apply a bit or accelerator while holding clutch"

from neutral into first,apply normal pressure on the downshift pedal and only hold the clutch 80% in instead of all the way

move it in and out a little and you will find the sweetspot where it should slip/clunk into first

from my 3 x cbr 250's some had the exact same symptoms you describe when new ,its a minor clutch adjustment and mine actually cured itself once i got used to it ,run up some miles and eventually but not yet switch to synthetic oil also made it smoother

if you have time go back in but honda will probably tell you its normal on new engine and transmission ,thats what they told me

Edited by YipYipYa123
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Sio you took it for a service already? They told me to come over at a 1000. In regard to the temperature i drove it from chiang mai to chiang rai and it wasnt that hot. Today however i was wearing shorts and noticed the warmth coming out specially on the left side after 5-10mins driving. But it stayed as warmth not hot. I did hear fan working really loud only after i came back to chiang rai and switched on the bike to show to my friend.

Gear changes are so flipping loud though, sometimes however the are very soft and smooth i think it depends on revs i still cannot find the optimum rpms for shifting. I had problems getting into first from neautral since i left bigwing sometimes it wont go down when i press down shift with my foot, i have to either roll bike backwards a bit or apply a bit or accelerator while holding clutch"

from neutral into first,apply normal pressure on the downshift pedal and only hold the clutch 80% in instead of all the way

move it in and out a little and you will find the sweetspot where it should slip/clunk into first

from my 3 x cbr 250's some had the exact same symptoms you describe when new ,its a minor clutch adjustment and mine actually cured itself once i got used to it ,run up some miles and eventually but not yet switch to synthetic oil also made it smoother

if you have time go back in but honda will probably tell you its normal on new engine and transmission ,thats what they told me

Move it in out you mean the bike or downshift pedal?

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Sio you took it for a service already? They told me to come over at a 1000. In regard to the temperature i drove it from chiang mai to chiang rai and it wasnt that hot. Today however i was wearing shorts and noticed the warmth coming out specially on the left side after 5-10mins driving. But it stayed as warmth not hot. I did hear fan working really loud only after i came back to chiang rai and switched on the bike to show to my friend.

Gear changes are so flipping loud though, sometimes however the are very soft and smooth i think it depends on revs i still cannot find the optimum rpms for shifting. I had problems getting into first from neautral since i left bigwing sometimes it wont go down when i press down shift with my foot, i have to either roll bike backwards a bit or apply a bit or accelerator while holding clutch"

from neutral into first,apply normal pressure on the downshift pedal and only hold the clutch 80% in instead of all the way

move it in and out a little and you will find the sweetspot where it should slip/clunk into first

from my 3 x cbr 250's some had the exact same symptoms you describe when new ,its a minor clutch adjustment and mine actually cured itself once i got used to it ,run up some miles and eventually but not yet switch to synthetic oil also made it smoother

if you have time go back in but honda will probably tell you its normal on new engine and transmission ,thats what they told me

Move it in out you mean the bike or downshift pedal?

sorry ,what worked for me is

keep normal downwards pressure on the foot pedal and keep your weight holding enough pressusre on it to downshift

hold the clutch in 100% and if nothing happens (it probably wont ) let it out slowly in small increments 1/8th of an inch each time until you find the exact sweet spot it drops into 1st gear,repeat a few times and youve got it

its annoying for a couple of days until you get used to it then its second nature ,some of my hondas need to be rolling to find neutral also when i pulled up at the traffic lights ,if i stopped completely and shifted up they would go past neutral into second but if i made my shift just as the bike was rolling to a stop i could get neutral every time (some of the old cbr 150's also did this )

my cbr 250s still dont drop into 1st if the clutch is pulled 100% of the way in ,the sweetspot seems to be around 75-80% in and then they drop in to first smoothly when i let the clutch out a little (maybe a half inch or so )

my kawasaki 650s have a pretty noticable clunk into first gear from neutral also + a bit of a jolt ,signifigantly louder and stronger than the cbr250s so i think its pretty standard to get a bit of clunk going into first ,even my suzuki gsx 1255fa clunks into first ... smile.png

anyways ,since your bike is brand new ,Honda will probably go over everything on the 1000km service because the break in process is complete and you can work with them to adjust clutch action to your preference and any other niggles that appear can likely be worked out

im looking forward to trying one of these new honda 500's myself but im on the incredibly long waiting list with everyone else :(

Edited by YipYipYa123
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Rule 21.

21) Not to discuss moderation publicly in the open forum; this includes individual actions, and specific or general policies and issues. You may send a PM to a moderator to discuss individual actions or email support (at) thaivisa.com to discuss moderation policy. Members should not block contact with moderators or administrators. Doing so will result in suspension.

jesus man, do you want the mod job that badly?

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Rule 21.

21) Not to discuss moderation publicly in the open forum; this includes individual actions, and specific or general policies and issues. You may send a PM to a moderator to discuss individual actions or email support (at) thaivisa.com to discuss moderation policy. Members should not block contact with moderators or administrators. Doing so will result in suspension.

jesus man, do you want the mod job that badly?

post-27441-0-94257900-1358133781_thumb.g

Edited by dave_boo
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Btw Loserlaser, I found a sweet stop on most gears to shift at 4000 rmp or so, if it is over or less it clicks very loud but at 4000 rpm it seems to be very soft and quiet.I still find acceleration quite jerky on 1st sometimes even when I go gentle on clutch and accelerator, guess have to get used to it. Drove it today for about 30 mins in the morning didnt have a problem with heating up bike was barely warm, fan never kicked in. I guess in BKK its much hotter than in Chiang Rai so I wouldn't worry too much as long as there is enough liquid to cool the engine, Iam sure indicator will come up once it heats up too much then you might have to check it out with honda. I tried full on acceleration from 20 to 110 few days ago it was pretty impressive, I cant even imagine how it is like on 1000r or even 600. Perhaps we should make a thread for 500 series related discussion it seems some people already sound unhappy in this thread.

Edited by sup3r1or
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It shouldn't make a difference what revs you are at when you shift unless you are trying to make clutchless shifts.

As a note on my crf quite often when you start engine then pull clutch in to go into first it won't go you have to let clutch out then in again and all is fine.

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Btw Loserlaser, I found a sweet stop on most gears to shift at 4000 rmp or so, if it is over or less it clicks very loud but at 4000 rpm it seems to be very soft and quiet.I still find acceleration quite jerky on 1st sometimes even when I go gentle on clutch and accelerator, guess have to get used to it. Drove it today for about 30 mins in the morning didnt have a problem with heating up bike was barely warm, fan never kicked in. I guess in BKK its much hotter than in Chiang Rai so I wouldn't worry too much as long as there is enough liquid to cool the engine, Iam sure indicator will come up once it heats up too much then you might have to check it out with honda. I tried full on acceleration from 20 to 110 few days ago it was pretty impressive, I cant even imagine how it is like on 1000r or even 600. Perhaps we should make a thread for 500 series related discussion it seems some people already sound unhappy in this thread.

There already is another thread smile.png .
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Some bikes are just like that as far as

transmission noise...clunky a bit

But it does not necessarily mean it is a bad transmission per se'

I have noticed that something changed over the years when I was bike-less

I noticed it actually on the CBR500 unveiling at Big Wing

That is that the shifter shaft that the shifter is connected to no longer comes out the lower section of the engine.

Instead there are various linkages that of course go forward to the shift shaft...that is not new but,

from there they go topside of the engine?

As I said this change must have happened when I was not riding for a few years.

Anyone know what its all about?

Sample pic below

Edited by mania
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superior, i had no problems with the clutch now, yes, it is all about finding the correct rpm. And, it gets softer now today a little.

But getting into the first is an earth shattering experience.

Engine was hot again yesterday but not that bad. Yes, Bangkok is hot, you guys having a winter now in Chiang Rai i am sure!

By the way, superior, you are lucky to get your bike fast as in Bigwing Bangkok, they said, white is the most popular color and there is a waiting list till June!!! For red and black, till May.

And, it is not mandatory to go to service on 100 km but i am doing a hard break in so oil and filter needs to be changed due to metal particles that might damage the engine.

I will go to service again on 1000 km and i will do a dyno which they said fine for 500 thb!

I am having a blast nowadayslaugh.png

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I will go to service again on 1000 km and i will do a dyno which they said fine for 500 thb!

I am having a blast nowadayslaugh.png

Glad your diggin it.

Also interested in seeing your dyno.

I think it is a great idea to dyno before any future mods if any.

Then you know for sure & not just seat of the pants if there is any actual improvement due to the mod.

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Footwear might have something to do with it.

The gear pedal on any bike like this is positioned for an upward motion which naturally happens when the correct footwear is worn, ie boots....

Riding around in flipflops will only result in your foot arching backwards on the upshift, forcing the gear pedal backwards. If the problem still persists try spinning the linkage a tooth back on its splines and/or adjust the rod length

Edited by karlos
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I got used of the clutch now but not the clutch lever. It is heavy man especially on traffic:(

Or maybe i am not riding a proper big bike for some time and my palms need some exercise?

And, you do not need to move the bike front or rear to shift while standing. If you cannot shift or find neutral, just release the clutch lever some - but not fully - or release and hold the clutch lever fully but do it super fast, It helps.

it is really loud to press into 1st still. Nearly a shame as people look at me at red lights so now, i am keeping it at first while waiting resulting pain on my palms and wrist!laugh.png

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I got used of the clutch now but not the clutch lever. It is heavy man especially on traffic:(

Or maybe i am not riding a proper big bike for some time and my palms need some exercise?

And, you do not need to move the bike front or rear to shift while standing. If you cannot shift or find neutral, just release the clutch lever some - but not fully - or release and hold the clutch lever fully but do it super fast, It helps.

it is really loud to press into 1st still. Nearly a shame as people look at me at red lights so now, i am keeping it at first while waiting resulting pain on my palms and wrist!laugh.png

Good job you didn`t buy a Moto Guzzi, your clutch arm would be in a sling by now biggrin.png
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In my experience if its not going in to 1st easily i would lower my rpms at idle. Lower them 100 at a time and please post the results.

That is exactly what is needed to be done to kill 1st gear clunk.

Carlos i tried what you say still clunky but today it gets softer and softer:lol:

My clutch arm is ok now. 4 weeks did not ride a bike back home and a proper big bike to ride means pain in clutch arm but it was fine today on my commute back. My clutch arm is back:lol:

Sent from my GT-N7100 using Thaivisa Connect App

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LooserL,

I tried few thins that worked for me, to get into first, release clutch slowly as you said will help it move into gear. Give a tiny bit of accelerator will put it in place as well, shift to 2nd then first.

I drove phantom before and my clutch level only went half way, here it goes all the way, very unusual. Though I admit the part of the body that hurts the most is right wrist, because of riding position and this silly neutral wiggle of the accelerator handle before it actually starts applying power. Do you have this as well LooserL? The accelerator handle wiggling around?

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LooserL,

I tried few thins that worked for me, to get into first, release clutch slowly as you said will help it move into gear. Give a tiny bit of accelerator will put it in place as well, shift to 2nd then first.

I drove phantom before and my clutch level only went half way, here it goes all the way, very unusual. Though I admit the part of the body that hurts the most is right wrist, because of riding position and this silly neutral wiggle of the accelerator handle before it actually starts applying power. Do you have this as well LooserL? The accelerator handle wiggling around?

When I first started riding a motorcycle my wrist used to hurt all the time because I used to put most of my weight on the handle bars. Later a learned how to hold myself up with my legs and body position.

Is this bike your first sports bike?

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LooserL,

I tried few thins that worked for me, to get into first, release clutch slowly as you said will help it move into gear. Give a tiny bit of accelerator will put it in place as well, shift to 2nd then first.

I drove phantom before and my clutch level only went half way, here it goes all the way, very unusual. Though I admit the part of the body that hurts the most is right wrist, because of riding position and this silly neutral wiggle of the accelerator handle before it actually starts applying power. Do you have this as well LooserL? The accelerator handle wiggling around?

For some reason Honda do have a 'wiggly' throttle. Its the same on the Cbr 250. I think some people had it adjusted. Others just learnt to live with it. On the 500 it would be more of a problem as its more powerful.

sent from my Q6

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LooserL,

I tried few thins that worked for me, to get into first, release clutch slowly as you said will help it move into gear. Give a tiny bit of accelerator will put it in place as well, shift to 2nd then first.

I drove phantom before and my clutch level only went half way, here it goes all the way, very unusual. Though I admit the part of the body that hurts the most is right wrist, because of riding position and this silly neutral wiggle of the accelerator handle before it actually starts applying power. Do you have this as well LooserL? The accelerator handle wiggling around?

i had a good amount of play on throttle when i first received teh bike.

On my 100 km service i told them to fix it. They told me that they specifically adjust a play on the throttle for inexperienced riders as yes, it might be dangerous for them especially while turning or having a big pothole, they might accidentally apply throttle.

It is fixed on mine now but still a little play on it but it is OK for city riding. You can fix it by yourself easily from throttle cable connection next to front brake fluid reservoir.

I had no problems ergonomically as i like the stance of sport bikes and i rode sport bikes many times in my life. Actually, i like it more than an upright position.

I think clutch was adjusted super. It is normal to grab it till the end on big bikes.

By the way, the indicated speed is i think very close to real gps speeds. I will check through my samsung note 2 gps. As, i checked yesterday again, 170ish kms are nearly close to redline not 7900 rpm as i stated before. Hard to look closely to the rev counter at that speeds in the city man:)

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While sat at the lights today about 5pm I saw a red CBR500 going past me, I wonder if it was you Loserlazer. Near Morchit.

Yeah, i work on Ratchada near Morchit. It might be me macknife.

As Honda Bigwing delivered only 65 bikes until now and 20 - 25 of them are red. So, there are very less cbr500 in town now especially red one:) This is what they told me.

Besides, they have sold 200 bikes until now in Bigwing Bangkok and they expect to sell at least 500 - 600 units this year or maybe more all over Thailand they added. They sold 10 goldwing last 8 months too!

Edited by loserlazer
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LooserL,

I tried few thins that worked for me, to get into first, release clutch slowly as you said will help it move into gear. Give a tiny bit of accelerator will put it in place as well, shift to 2nd then first.

I drove phantom before and my clutch level only went half way, here it goes all the way, very unusual. Though I admit the part of the body that hurts the most is right wrist, because of riding position and this silly neutral wiggle of the accelerator handle before it actually starts applying power. Do you have this as well LooserL? The accelerator handle wiggling around?

i had a good amount of play on throttle when i first received teh bike.

On my 100 km service i told them to fix it. They told me that they specifically adjust a play on the throttle for inexperienced riders as yes, it might be dangerous for them especially while turning or having a big pothole, they might accidentally apply throttle.

It is fixed on mine now but still a little play on it but it is OK for city riding. You can fix it by yourself easily from throttle cable connection next to front brake fluid reservoir.

I had no problems ergonomically as i like the stance of sport bikes and i rode sport bikes many times in my life. Actually, i like it more than an upright position.

I think clutch was adjusted super. It is normal to grab it till the end on big bikes.

By the way, the indicated speed is i think very close to real gps speeds. I will check through my samsung note 2 gps. As, i checked yesterday again, 170ish kms are nearly close to redline not 7900 rpm as i stated before. Hard to look closely to the rev counter at that speeds in the city man:)

LL, I always found GPS speeds to be inaccurate to plus minus 5 kph, I tested that a lot in the UK with both mobile and standalone gps like tomtom. In the uk i was caught on a speed camera doing 75 mph even though my gps showed 69 with all 5 bars of signal filled in. Tested in on virgin trains from Manchester to London with pretty much same result.

Also wanted to ask when you start the bike on your dashboard the oil indicator how long does it stay light? Mine stays until I get into 1st gear, if I stay in neutral for a few mins its on. Is this normal? ABS lights on when I start the bike and goes away after moving for a few seconds.

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