Leaving Los For Phillipines?

[HeijoshinCool]

OP -- try joining this Yahoo Group of about 600 Expats who are mostly small farmers and businessmen in the Philippines. Their perspective is 'realistic' and sobering I would call it. If any one group of Expats can tell you about what it is like to live in the Philippines with all the good - the bad and the ugly - then this group is it. You can join and read a bunch of the past posts on the subjects you think are pertinent...

http://asia.groups.yahoo.com/group/philventures/

I'll do that, thanks.

[HeijoshinCool]

easy visa, no visaruns for 2 years if you are smart, pretty girls, housing cheaper, everything cheaper in price but also less quality , like infrastucture, airports, food, about guns everywhere get a glock with two spare mags like in the us, guns are everywhere even in los, best beaches, much much better than in los, english gets you everywhere, great potential for the future much more potential as los, thats why i am there for 6 out of 12, btw davao rocks, not many beautyful hookers, just fly them in just being funny!

Less quality than in Thailand? You've got to be kidding. I'm still looking for one extension cord that lasts longer than the trip from the store, to my house!

[JDGRUEN]

OP -- try joining this Yahoo Group of about 600 Expats who are mostly small farmers and businessmen in the Philippines. Their perspective is 'realistic' and sobering I would call it. If any one group of Expats can tell you about what it is like to live in the Philippines with all the good - the bad and the ugly - then this group is it. You can join and read a bunch of the past posts on the subjects you think are pertinent...

http://asia.groups.yahoo.com/group/philventures/

I'll do that, thanks.

OP - you will have to wade though a number of posts not related to your exact needs. Sometimes these guys get off of tangents of subject matter like climate change or GMO's, etc. After looking at some history of posts - Just introduce yourself and ask the relevant questions...

[MrWorldwide]

easy visa, no visaruns for 2 years if you are smart, pretty girls, housing cheaper, everything cheaper in price but also less quality , like infrastucture, airports, food, about guns everywhere get a glock with two spare mags like in the us, guns are everywhere even in los, best beaches, much much better than in los, english gets you everywhere, great potential for the future much more potential as los, thats why i am there for 6 out of 12, btw davao rocks, not many beautyful hookers, just fly them in just being funny!

Less quality than in Thailand? You've got to be kidding. I'm still looking for one extension cord that lasts longer than the trip from the store, to my house!

That's OK - if your Filipino captors use those dodgy cords to tie you to the bed while they phone in their ransom demands, you stand a much better chance of getting free and leaping out the window, Jack Bauer style.

[MrWorldwide]

Gah - duplicate post - I think I broke the internet.

[Asia2000]

Just back in Thailand from Philippines, spent 1 year there in Cebu city and Bohol Island.

Here's my experience.

Getting there:

Cebu pacific air have direct flights (sundays only) Bangkok - Cebu.

Visa:

On arrival get 21 days. They might ask to see return ticket, but I was not asked the 2 times I arrived from abroad.

After 21 days extend to 59 days, then 2 months, 2 months ....

After 6 months stay one need a Exit Clearance from Immigration before departure.

After 16 months leave the country for a day, return next day for another 16 months.

Cost me around 1000 USD for a year. Visa agents can do the extension for you, fee 30 USD per time.

Exchange rate:

40% more than in Thailand, although visa costs and rentals will eat up this advantage.

Opening a Bank account:

The rules says that you need a ACR card, this you first get from Immigration after 60 days stay if I remember correct. Any expats can point you in direction of foreigner friendly banks, who allow you to opening account without the ACR card. I had my account within 7 days stay, and money transfer took 3 days normally, but up to 7 days if any holiday.

Philippines expats:

Since so few expats live here, expats are helpful and friendly. One took his car and showed me rentals around the city, and didn't want money for gas. We met up in malls around the city for lunch dinner talk, or a night out. A few alcoholics to be found, since beer here are so cheap, 4 small San Miquel bottles in a bucket of ice for 2.50 USD. Tourist numbers are rising. Last numbers passed 3 million visitors.

Apartment condo house for rent:

Nothing like Thailand, I found the rent at least twice as much, if not more.

200 USD a month gives you a chack but hardly more. Expect to pay at least 400 USD for something similar to Thailand 200 USD.

Don't expect to find modern nice fully furnished, unless you pay 700 USD a month, or more. Note that 2 moths advanced deposit + 1 months rents seems to be the norm. 1 year lease is prefered, 6 months can be had with negotiations, shorter is very hard to find.

Hotels charge 650 USD up for a monthly stay.

Brown outs:

Never experiences one, maybe I was lucky or Cebu and Bohol are better than other areas?

Safety and crime:

I was out and around 10am-5am, and never had a bad experience.

However the news was full of crimes, and foreigners should keep a low profile. Cell phone stays home after dark, or buy the cheapest one.

Foreigner business people seemed to be a target, so take precautions.

Nightlife:

Cebu has a very limited nightlife area, just a small plaza (Mango) and a few places down the road. Then the odd place spread out around the city. People go out at 11 pm, peak time 1-2 am, and not much after 5 am.

Pace of living:

Pinoys are up early and most go home at sunset 5.30 pm! Evening and nights might be long and lonely, unless you have someone.

This was the hardest adjustment for me, after living in big cities in Thailand, that are more or less open 24/7. Cebu is not in any way similar to Pattaya, Phuket or similar. Cebu is a daytime city, with very little to do after dark.

Pinoy people:

I found them very friendly and extremely polite. Again never had a bad experience.

Landlords was problem free, and returned deposit on check out every time.

I rented in uptown Cebu, the suburbs, and Bohol - never a problem.

Others reported not getting their deposit back, many times.

Food:

Good food it hard to find. Even in Malls like Ayala and SM in Cebu city where they have many restaurants, the food just wasn't good.

Beef/steaks for 25 USD up, tasted less than good and no value for money. Can't be compared with Thailand.

Pinoys seems to prefer Jollibee similar to McDonalds, burgers fries pasta for 1-3 USD, but 1 visit was enough for me.

Supermarket:

Have imported food in Cebu, import tax takes it tolls. Beef steak bacon burgers hot dogs fish.

6 PM they stop for a few minutes, for prayer every day. Most close 9 pm or before. Not many people out after 6pm.

Malls:

Often out of stock, and it might take months before they get new orders delivered.

I found this very frustrating many times. Also got used to 'sold out', while I found the item moved to another place in the same shop.

Clothes:

Less quality for more money, no way near market in Thailand. Buy up in LOS if you plan a longer stay in Philippines.

Hospitals: Cebu has some good hospital. Cebu Doctor come reccommended and a few others.

Friends who used them was impressed about service and treatment.

Medical insurance:

Blue cross is the company foreigners prefer, they have 'with access' option, where they will pay direct to the hospital. A friend was in a accident, and the company paid his bill around 1.7 Mill Peso. 2 Million Peso coverage is the minimum that expats reccommends, and this might set you back +- 1000 USD a year, depending your age.

Pharmacy:

2-3 times the price of similar in Thailand. Many medications not available. Bring your own and prescription.

Vitamins for older gents are also available some places, 2x price than in Thailand.

Dental work:

30-50% cheaper than Thailand. Good standard / equippment in and around Ayala mall Cebu.

Internet:

Internet speed is a disaster, similar or less than cell phone speeds in rural Thailand. They advertise 'speed up to' but what you get in real life are 5-10% of what they advertise. I bought all kind of sim card and usb dongles. Hotel apartment wifi wasn't any better. Long time expats said the only option was a business line, cost a fortune. Most had 2 different ways to get online, since disconnect was a daily thing. If you need fast internet, you better pay big bucks, rent a chair in a call center with ok internet speed, or suffer.

Beautiful beaches:

Bohol Panglao Alone Beach ......... I will always remember this place. I was lost of words when I arrived there. Clear water, clean beach, the most beautiful place I've ever seen. For a honey moon or a writer who wants inspiration from nature, this is The Place. Don't expect to find much company their though, so bring a friend is highly reccommended. Food as always, not very good.

Climate:

I found Cebu and Bohol to be comfortable 2-4 degrees cooler than Thailand, could at last wear my jeans without getting hot.

Girlfriends and relationships:

The good thing first, Pinay lady is not picky about your age, just look clean, smell good, fresh breath and clean toe nails (lastly very important).

Psssst oyyyy .... is the local way of want your attention, or show their interest to you. As a foreigner you will get this anywhere. How decent and serious these people are, is another thing though. Note that most lack Identy Card, so be sure she is 18 year or more.

I had many friends and phone numbers from internet. Unless you are willing to use time and money to go her place, almost none will meet you in a mall, even they agree to do so. Lack of money for transportation, even 0.25 USD only. Looking back I can just say it's hard to find a gem online. My personal experience, it's not worth your time, unless you look for a short encounter. If wanting a serious relationship, it's better to make expats friends and let their girlfriends wifes introduce you to more good ladies. Most of these don't use internet.

Gays and ladyboys:

Either this is your thing or not, I had no problems at all.

Gays in Cebu approach you in a nice polite way, and always accept a no thanks without further hazzle.

Same can be said about the ladyboys, they won't bother you if you just politely decline.

STD:

Std's is a huge problem, weekly tv shows about the increasing numbers of infected people.

Powerty among the locals, and hardly any use of condoms, really makes this a thing to be aware of.

This goes for both sexes, none of the one I met had been for a check up. A good hospital will do all the tests for less than 40 USD, Clinics charge a fraction of this, but I personally don't trust them.

Powerty and desperation:

In your face everywhere. I made friends who couldn't afford a 1USD meal. Unemployment is incredible high. Never give out money. If your heart really goes for someone, but a sack of rice if you want to help out. If you buy a small tv or a fridge for anyone, they likely sell it within a week, because they are in desperat need for cash for daily needs. Makes one humble for how lucky we western people are.

I will return to Philippines. Although many compromises has to be made, the Pinoys have something that I can't forget. I feel welcome there, I enjoy beeing around polite people. The fact that Filipinas don't mind older age than 40, and no high demands for money support, sure make Philippines a winner in my opinion. However if I find a Gem, I will try bringing her back to Thailand to live here, in a modern easy comfortable country. Best of both countries.

Asia2000

[MrWorldwide]

Thanks for the extensive report, Asia2000.

[jaideeguy]

Excellent report on Cebu and Bohol and I agree with most of it, having been there many times, the last was last year and over the years, I've seen the poverty get worse.......or maybe more in your face, especially in the urban areas. I really didn't feel comfortable or like Cebu [city], but found that a half hr north or south of the congestion of Cebu city, it was beautiful, peaceful and the people much more friendly.

I am surprised that you didn't find any nice girls on the internet......DIA and a lot of time weeding out the gold diggers, scammers and Katoeys yealded some fantastic results for me and I'm in my mid 60s. The commercial sex trade was bad....spoiled by the Asian tourists, so I avoided that and only visited a couple of bars to lookey, but no touchy. Didn't used to be that way.

I also agree with your assement of the food there. My biggest complaint was the lack of decent fresh vegetables, but the seafood was great.

I found that the Visayas get even better on the smaller less touristic and developed islands like Camiguin, Bohol was nice and too many other islands......7,100, they say.

Did you venture out of the city much??

Thanks for sharing your experiences there.......

[jaideeguy]

I forgot to add the one big plus......most Filipinos speak English and you can have the illusion that they understand you. Here in LOS, there are no illusions..........

Also, just read your OP and you say that you want a simple life, living in a bungalow and that's what I did in the mountains of Luzon. First in the rice terraces of Banaue for 2+ years, then on the outskirts of Baguio, where I partnered up with some well connected locals and we put together a cultural resort that is still up and running and has become one of the major tourist attractions there.

[Asia2000]

visa is easy and cheap, business is possible as well. But go for it the girls will like you. I lived there for more then 7 years and its great. People actually understand you lol. Where do you plan to go? The Philippines are also much cheaper then LOS

Easy? Not for a single foreigner. Cheap? PI visa cost me 8 times more for 1 year stay.

in Philippines one have to renew every 2 months and my 1 year stay costed me 1000 USD.

In Thailand I only report every 90 days for NON O retirement visa and pay only 130 USD.

Married with Filipina that's another case and easy.

having just spent 2 months in the phills after 27 years of going to thailand, i was not impressed at first, bad infrustructure, crappy food, and millions of kids, 25 years behind thailand for sure, but after a while, it grows on u, in a strange sort of way,lol, one things for sure its easy to stay there, 3 weeks on arival, extend at any immigration, a futher 39 days, takes 1 hour, then after that extend 1 year with a 1 year alien registration card , easy, non of the nonsense u get in thailand..

and by the way, get the card and u can open bank account, and get driving license no problem

Can only talk for myself as a single foreigner:

Must renew tourist visa every 2 months - no 1 year extension in year 2012/13.

16 months is now the maximum stay - more than that require approval from Chief of Bureau of Immigration, said to be almost impossible.

This from my foreigner visa agent, and longtime expats in PI.

Driving License year 2012 now require a full medical check up, and one better stay clear of any illegal substance way ahead.

A friend of mine who lived there for a few years and had a business came scooting here very quickly and has never returned. His advice might be theat you should never marry there. You could never get out of it.

Note for foreigners: if one are involved in a relationship with a married/separated Filipina, and her husband find out, he can report both parties to the police. They will make arrest of both parties and bring the case to court. I met a married / separated lady in a mall who was scared to death if her husband (that left her 3 years before) would see her tallking with another man. On strong advice from other expats, I didn't meet her again.

-

Cheaper in Philippines:

Sky Cabel TV Philippines 20 USD a month - Truevision Thailand 70 USD for Platinum and less channels.

Cabel tv in PI also have more English speaking channels than in LOS.

20 Marlboro was less than 1 USD - Thailand 3 USD.

Beer and Rum was also much cheaper. Smokers and drinkers have good days in PI.

White Taxi with Meter start at P40 / 1USD and most rides inside Cebu was 3-5USD, choose car carefully, many of them was older than me. Airport Taxi is Yellow and charge almost double.

Else I found Philippines more expensive:.

40 inch Samsung serie 6 in Cebu was 1500 USD - Thailand 1000 USD same model,

Laptops and DSL cameras was 200-500 USD more in PI.

Mobile phones was 100-200 USD more in PI. Buy your electronics in Thailand.

From my view: Living in the Philippines is not easy, powerty, crime, desperation, unemployment, lack of anything. Be prepared to live in a society that more or less close down at sunset or at 9 pm at best. But the polite gentle romantic nature of the people, make life easier in so many other ways. Relationship in PI are much more romantic and feels real, you will be treated like a King. And will cost you much less than in other countries.

[myk187]

I lived for more than one year in PHILS....

In mindanao close to davao.

Extreeeeem friendly people And much more authentic than thais.

Crime? ... Well anywhere in the world is crime.... And i for me its ok two see guards in front of the bank with shotguns.... Y not? U dnt have anything to worry if u dnt plan to rub the bank...

Food is not the best but i am still alive...

Every country have advantage and disadvantage... For me the only reason to live here now is the buinsuess.

[MrWorldwide]

Great warts-and-all impressions being injected into this thread. It all comes down to the individual, but if I was willing to take responsibility for a family, I would prefer to marry a Filipina and take her elsewhere - even LOS - than try to relocate a Thai woman to Oz or wherever. The Filis that I've encountered in Oz are supremely adaptable, even if they do have a tendency to gossip among themselves (as opposed to other women ...). I just dont have any inclination to be part of the support system that makes people the PI's biggest single export earner. I dont blame them at all - how could they settle into a comfortable life overseas while their family struggles back in PI - but its not for me. Philanthropy is for billionaires, sadly.

[theblether]

The Us. ties with the Philippines is strong being that it was a us commenwealth in the past & #3 largest speaking english country in the world. Why not try to live a few months there , a few months in LOAS & a few months in Thailand see what you like & its cheap for travel inbetween.

visa is easy and cheap, business is possible as well. But go for it the girls will like you. I lived there for more then 7 years and its great. People actually understand you lol. Where do you plan to go? The Philippines are also much cheaper then LOS

Phils used to have strong ties with US till Phils Govt got greedy about the price of Subic and Clark.. also nursing staff had jobs processed in the US. ..now they have to process externally so many went to the UK instead...

I was in the phils when Subic and Clark were busy and then after they closed 200,000 had no jobs....that killed the special relationship

The special relationship you say? Go read the " The Imperial Cruise " by James Bradley.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Imperial_Cruise

It's not often I wince and recoil when reading a book, this one will change your perception of the US " special relationship " with PI. You will also be godsmacked about the relationship with Japan and Korea, among others. I note this line from wiki......

" USA Today was largely negative, calling it useful for readers who think that history "is the story of good guys and bad guys", and expressing disappointment with the "relentlessly sarcastic" tone and lack of ambiguity. "

I think that translates into......." Oh no Mr Son of famous war hero, please don't tell us like it is ". The book extensively quotes from letters of the time that once again, will make you wince.

In saying all that, I'm not the type to slavishly believe everything I've read, if anyone else knows of any other good books on that period and region I would be glad to read them.

[IMA_FARANG]

Sat right here at this very same table I'm posting this on now and talked to an American who arrived from the

Phillipines yesterday.

He told me he has a gun license in the Phillipines.

The reason was the crime rate and the robberies that occur often where he lives.

[David48]

Is the Pinoy food really that bad ?

I think they have a mix of Spanish and Chinese food , must be something tasty there,

Some great replies above.

For me the food sucks.

Well, if you like a countries cuisine largely influenced by the USA, then you might find it palatable.

In it's formative years, the Phillipines were ruled by Spain, but later by the USA ... gaining full independence from the United States in 1946. Hence the Spanish and American influence you witness today.

.

[MrWorldwide]

yep - machismo + gun culture + catholic guilt + endemic poverty : sensational legacy from the colonial powers. Great deal of head scratching in another thread about which South American countries would qualify as 'First World', and it seems to come down to Chile and - possibly - Argentina. Whatever economic 'miracles' might be taking place elsewhere in South America don't seem to be filtering down to the Barrio. The Spanish wrote the book on pillage and plunder - whatever you think of the British, they left something beyond jails behind them in their former colonies.

[Asia2000]

The food is always usually terrible. I spent 25 USD on a meal in the best restaurants in the malls, Beef tenderloin, Filet mignon and I felt I ate a sandal. The kitchen don't have a clue about medium rare or medium, whatever you order you get it well done. Luckily I found 2 restaurants that served delicious Pasta for 5 USD so I became a frequent guest.

Local restaurants with chicken or pork (2-5USD) was so dry and hard to chew, without lots of SML (San Miquel Light beer). You sure don't go to PI for the food. Thai restaurant in SM mall Cebu, and Ayala mall Cebu, did good business.

[theblether]

What is it with the food? Shockingly bad ingredients? Shockingly bad cooks?

[grumpyoldman]

Jesus Christ, barbecue and rice.............hotter chicks and better beer, crap, that doesn't rhyme.....oh well, you guys get the drift.

[MrWorldwide]

What is it with the food? Shockingly bad ingredients? Shockingly bad cooks?

In my experience, it's just very bland - think chicken and rice where both seem to have been *boiled* and just slapped on a plate ....

It's certainly not due to a lack of appetite for anything more adventurous - I've watched Filipinas shovel plates of food down in KL in a decidedly un-ladylike fashion. Love those girls, but I wouldnt want to get between them and the evening meal

[David48]

What is it with the food? Shockingly bad ingredients? Shockingly bad cooks?

From my post above ...

"Well, if you like a countries cuisine largely influenced by the USA, then you might find it palatable."

.

[HeijoshinCool]

What is it with the food? Shockingly bad ingredients? Shockingly bad cooks?

From my post above ...

"Well, if you like a countries cuisine largely influenced by the USA, then you might find it palatable."

.

Cuisines influenced by the USA?

Think it's the other way around, bud.

[Lancelot]

If you are 50 or older, the retirement visa in Thailand is cheaper and relatively hassel free. Age 49 and younger, the visas process in the Philippines would probably be easier, 21 days on arrival, then extend for 38 days and then extend for 59 days each time until a trip outside the country is required ( after 18 months?)

[poanoi]

All in all i cant but regret i didnt go straight to Cambodia

[Asia2000]

All in all i cant but regret i didnt go straight to Cambodia

Been reading on other forums that brown outs occur daily in Cambodia, for many hours. So what do Cambo have, that Phils don't?

After extensive reading, I think they're much the same, aren't they?

Both have high crime, unemployment, bad infrastructure and shitty food. At least in PI most speak very good English.

I'm seriously interested to know more about neighboring countries to Thailand, so can you please share your experience?

[poanoi]

Most all you encounter in Cambodia speak excellent english,

i dont recall any blackouts from my trips to cambodia,

cambodia food sux, that is a given, no more bad infrastructure in sihanookville,

everyone not busy with a work employ them-self demanding money from white boys,

and wont take no for an answer.

Crime can be defined in a single word: police corruption, starting right at the border.

Laos is the most boring place i've been to, nuff said.

Actually no, must add i never saw so shameless taxi drivers as in Vientienne,

i would happily execute the lot of them for 2 cent per head

[David48]

What is it with the food? Shockingly bad ingredients? Shockingly bad cooks?

From my post above ...

"Well, if you like a countries cuisine largely influenced by the USA, then you might find it palatable."

.

Cuisines influenced by the USA?

Think it's the other way around, bud.

au contraire mon frère ...

In the States, Americans have influences from around the world with their cuisine.

But in the Phillipines there is a strong and obvious influence from America.

Given the decades that the USA ran the admin of the country ... that is only natural.

These are but my experiences from visiting there ... what are yours?

.

[HeijoshinCool]

What is it with the food? Shockingly bad ingredients? Shockingly bad cooks?

From my post above ...

"Well, if you like a countries cuisine largely influenced by the USA, then you might find it palatable."

.

Cuisines influenced by the USA?

Think it's the other way around, bud.

au contraire mon frère ...

In the States, Americans have influences from around the world with their cuisine.

But in the Phillipines there is a strong and obvious influence from America.

Given the decades that the USA ran the admin of the country ... that is only natural.

These are but my experiences from visiting there ... what are yours?

.

Maybe I'm missing something, but seems you are contradicting yourself.

America has very few eponymous cuisines. As you say, they are mostly courtesy of all the immigrants. So, if America influences the PI ....

[David48]

^^ Mate, I usually like your posts ... but I'm not understanding you now.

Have you been to the Phillipines and ingested their cuisine?

Noticed the huge USA influence there?

Is anyone else who has travelled to the Phillipines and eaten there disagree with me?

.

[MrWorldwide]

OK - I'll bite - what exactly *is* 'American cuisine' ? Is it chicken-fried steak ? A cold hot-dog and warm beer at Fenway Park ?

The vast majority of the food I associate with the US came from someplace else. The exceptions, off the top of my head, would be Tex-Mex and Cajun food but I'm guessing that isnt what we are talking about here, so can we please have some examples ?

If it's Pizza Hut and KFC, I'm sorry, but does that even qualify as 'cuisine' ? I've never tried 'gumbo' or 'grits', but a Quarter-Pounder doesn't bring to mind exhausted marines raising Old Glory over Iwo Jima.