Nan Trip And Beyond.

[rene123]

This is nothing new to the old hands at riding in Northern Thailand, but the Nan trip from Chiang Mai is one of the best. The hills east of Nan to the small village of Bo Kluea are truly worth riding and seeing. It is pretty much a straight run from Chiang Mai to Lampang on a 4 lane highway. Traffic is only heavy at rush hour and close to the cities. It's about 90 km from Chiang Mai to Lampang. The highway 11 from Lampang climbs into the hills east of Lampang, but the road is still good with lots of passing lanes and long, fast sweeping bends. There are passing lanes for getting by the slow moving trucks. It's about 110 km from Lampang to Phrae, but like Lampang, the main part of the city is off the through highway. I really enjoyed the ride between Phrae and Wiang Sa. It is fairly level country with fast sweeping curves in the road. But, it IS just 2 lanes with only the occasional passing lane. Watch out for idiots who like to pass on blind corners. I try to keep my speed down when I can't see around a corner. Thais don't bother and will pass anywhere at any time. It's about 120 km from Phrae to Nan and takes about an hour and a half depending on traffic. There is highway construction for about 10 km just south of Nan.

Nan is a spread out farming city along the river of the same name. It doesn't seem to have a lot of redeeming features other than looking like every other Thai city. I went searching for some place to eat and had a choice of soup, soup or soup. I had purchased the new map put out by the Bikers forum, but could not find Tony's place that was recommended to me. I should have checked the GPS co-oridinates before I left Chiang Mai. The map shows only one bridge over the Nan River but there are definitely 2. And, there was no nightlife that I could find. Maybe the old hands at visiting Nan will know better and correct me. I stayed at the big empty hotel just at the south part of town. It has a popular swimming pool but very few guests. The rooms were clean and the beds comfortable though. 500 baht per night.

However, I didn't ride to Nan just to see the city. It is the hills to the east that is the draw for a biker fan. We took hwy 1169 that heads north just across the bridge. It is a narrow, twisty road that follows the river valley for a short distance before heading into the hills. The hills have all been stripped bare of the trees and replaced by tiny corn stocks on the steep hillsides. The farmers get one tiny cob of corn off each plant. It must be VERY labour intensive. Thee are hundreds of tiny corn husking shacks stuck to the sides of the mountains. The road winds along the narrow ridge top and you can look down into the valleys on either side. There is one section about of about 1 km that is under construction. 1169 winds back down to the valley and the small village of Santisuk where we turned north for a short distance and came to a T junction at hwy 1081. We turned right on 1081 towards Bo Kluea which the sign said was 50 km, but distances are deceiving. There is NO WAY you can make good time on that road. With all the hairpin turns it feels more like you've ridden 200 km. Just enjoy it for what it is. It makes the Pai road look like a freeway. Fortunately, there is little traffic and the ride is quite pleasant if you don't have a squeamish stomach. There are very few of the busses, vans and trucks that you find on the Pai road. Eventually, the winding road descends down to the valley and the small village of Bo Kluea where we found a lovely restaurant called the Boklua River View Bar.

We had plans to search a new area that we hadn't been to before, so we retraced our route back the the junction with hwy 1333-1350 where we turned south. It is a narrow road that follows the valley to the Huai Lom village on the Wa River. We had heard stories of mahseer fish in the river, but as it turned out people are not allowed to fish in that area. The mahseer were there but all we could do is watch them from the suspension bridge over the river. The Wa River is quite beautiful and unlike most rivers in Thailand, the Wa River is clear. There were thousands of fish feeding in the current, but all we could do was watch them. I would have happily paid 2000 baht just to catch and release one of those big fish.

We continued on hwy 1333 which somehow mysteriously changes into hwy 1257. If we thought that hwy 1081 was twisty, hwy 1333-1257 made it look straight. It climbed up, and up and up and up and there were no straight sections. but, it truly was something to see and ride. The road was narrow and covered with leaves from the storm the night before, but certainly not a 4x4 or dirt bike track. After what seemed like forever the road came to a brand new bridge at a T junction and the short cut back to hwy 1081. But, we turned left and continued through the national forest of which parts were still intact and others stripped bare of trees for the meager corn stocks. The 45 km on hwy 133-1257 back to Santisuk seemed like 200, but it was a very scenic ride and one I'll try to make again. There are still lots of side roads to explore even further, but my friends didn't have any more time.

[CBR250]

Thanks for the report. Always useful to have first-hand comments and suggestions.

[moe666]

Instead of taking the route south to Nan next time take the 118 to the 120 to Phayao then get on the 1051 or the 1052 ( do not have my map with me) to the 1091 into Nan. These 4 roads are in very good shape with enough twists and turns to make one happy but not crazy stuff.

[rene123]

Thank you for that, Moe, but it will have to wait for next season. I go back to Canada just BEFORE Songkran. I have no intention of being around for that craziness. If it only lasted 2 days like Loi krathong it would be okay, but I don't want to be hit by a bucket of water while riding my motorbike and not expecting it.

[villagefarang]

Pictures?

[mania]

What kind of bike did you ride Rene?

The blind corner passers are amazing aren't they?

Not a care in the world as they enter a blind turn in the wrong lane.

Then also the major mountain passes, many have two lanes for climbing & one lane for descending but if going around a climbing bend best to get in the left climbing lane because many times these same types are using that right climbing lane to descend around the bends

Edited March 5, 2013 by mania

[rene123]

I have a 250 Kawasaki D-Tracker motard that I bought on the recommendation of a much more experienced rider than me. It goes as fast as I want to travel and I like the extra gears when coming down hill. It's also reliable. I also like the height because I can see OVER a lot of vehicles to judge what is up ahead. I've had one fall at not too fast a speed and that is enough of a warning for me. I don't have a man's testosterone and I don't try to prove I'm better than anyone else. I'm quite happy letting young Thai guys go zipping past me on their 125 scooters.

[villagefarang]

We all love those lovely Nan roads.

[moe666]

Thank you for that, Moe, but it will have to wait for next season. I go back to Canada just BEFORE Songkran. I have no intention of being around for that craziness. If it only lasted 2 days like Loi krathong it would be okay, but I don't want to be hit by a bucket of water while riding my motorbike and not expecting it.

I rode to Tak last year during songram and was only hit with water once, usually a wave off and they will flick a bit on you with their fingers, it is in town where they lose control.

[eek]

Nice report rene!
Just an aside though, everyone i know who rides bangs on about how great the nan road is. I was looking forward to it, but found it disappointing.
I love twisties and the unpredictable aspect of them, the nan route just seemed too predictable and not very exciting. Am i the only one thinking that?

Just feel you need to be going at a crazy speed to make it feel exciting.

[villagefarang]

I don't know, I found it pretty unpredictable in places.

[rene123]

Thanks for the photos, villagefarang. Mine are still unorganized on my laptop. When I get home I intend to put them somewhere and resize the better ones for display and share. I'm already looking forward to next winter when I return... and I haven't even left yet.

In answer to eek I think the Nan roads are popular with bikers because they are not as busy as the ones in more popular places like Pai. There is a nice combination of everything. On the main roads I had no problem getting to speeds of 100 + km/hr. The mountain roads are best taken between 20 km/hr and 60 km/hr. On the 45 km 1333-1257 road we didn't see another vehicle and only saw a half dozen motorbikes. Tourist maps show white water rafting in some areas, but November is a better time for that when there is more water. The river at Bo Kluea was just a trickle through the rocks. There were fish rising under the bridge that I'm sure would have taken a fly, but you aren't allowed to fish there.

And, even if you speak fluent Thai these hill tribe people seem to speak a dialect all their own. They are very close to the Laos border so I assume that could be the reason.

[mania]

And, even if you speak fluent Thai these hill tribe people seem to speak a dialect all their own. They are very close to the Laos border so I assume that could be the reason.

Actually they are not hill tribe people at all they are just Thai, but yes it does sound foreign & thick doesn't it?

They are speaking a Lanna/Northern version of Thai & some areas like Dupong/Santisuk speak a Laos/Thai mix but only that village.

But most are speaking Lanna/Northern Thai afaik & all understand central Thai although many times not as we foreigners speak it

I am sure VillageFarang gets by real well after living here so long.

Edited March 5, 2013 by mania

[moe666]

Nice report rene!

Just an aside though, everyone i know who rides bangs on about how great the nan road is. I was looking forward to it, but found it disappointing.

I love twisties and the unpredictable aspect of them, the nan route just seemed too predictable and not very exciting. Am i the only one thinking that?

Just feel you need to be going at a crazy speed to make it feel exciting.

Eek which Nan roads the ones getting you there are the ones you ride after arrival.