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Is Chiangmai Still A Good Retirement Place?


eden8

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I came to Chiang Mai for the first time 20 years ago moved here from Bangkok 7 years ago. The reasons: Chiang Mai offered a big city infrastructure without many of the problems of a big city, meaning no congestion, no 2-hour commutes, no concrete jungle like in Bangkok. Housing and cost of life was relatively cheap, the lifestyle more relaxed and access to green areas was easy. Unfortunately, some of this is changing now as the city is growing.

Nowadays, congestion is common in some areas, urban development (and real estate prices) show the signs of uncontrolled growth. The city is also more expensive due to continued inflation and weakening Euro / strong Baht. All this is quite a heavy price to pay for the improved infrastructure. In addition, the city has problems of its own, like the annual pollution.

It could become a second Bangkok, but the game is not yet decided.

Cheers, CM-Expat

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Thailand has beautiful coastal areas with fresh sea air. Why on earth would you want to settle somewhere inland with pollution in CM figuring highly for example. I agree with one poster, CM ok for a holiday only. One week is pelnty !

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There's been a great influx of people in the past three years, and, yes the immigration office is a nightmare. They,( the staff have realized it and have asked for a solution - upgrades - but it isn't happening) I have seen a big attitude changes from the expats going into the CMI office. It used to be kind of pleasant to go in, chat with someone you know or don't know and it was always interesting if you like just watching people being people. The last few visits I've encountered some very rude people in the way they present themselves to try and rush through everyone else (both expats & CMI employees). Of course the employees are now more defensive and that comes back at all of us. What used to be a get up at 5AM and set it on cuise control day is now a gigantic hassle. I don't know how the employess stand it.

Seems like the expats here are getting more short/ill tempered and demanding. Possible that more low lifes are camping out here in bigger numbers these days.

Only ONE of the unpleasant situations I've ever witnessed were Thai generated. All the rest were expats creating problems. Going into the city isn't as much fun as it once was.

Edited by pgrahmm
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Interesting to note how many posts start out stating, "I like Chiang Mai, but...." or "I love living here, but....." after the but, there are lists of drawbacks. It's almost like saying, "I'm married and (speaker thinking' 'I'm supposed to say this, because we're stuck with each other'), I love her, but......" Then we hear some of the grim realities.

Alternatively, you might find a place to pitch your tent which is genuinely good, and you won't have to add a bunch of ifs and buts and should haves and could haves - to justify residing there.

I completely agree with you. My Dad used to say there is no such animal as a yabut.

Makes no difference where a person lives they will always find things they would like to improve on. It is just the way life is. Every thing is Rosie for a period of time then if nothing new changes we start to get board then start nitpicking and finding fault.

We forget that at one time we liked this. My philosophy is that nothing is right or wrong where ever I go just different and if I don't like it I can move on. But my dislike is no reason for some one else to dislike it.

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There's been a great influx of people in the past three years, and, yes the immigration office is a nightmare. They,( the staff have realized it and have asked for a solution - upgrades - but it isn't happening) I have seen a big attitude changes from the expats going into the CMI office. It used to be kind of pleasant to go in, chat with someone you know or don't know and it was always interesting if you like just watching people being people. The last few visits I've encountered some very rude people in the way they present themselves to try and rush through everyone else (both expats & CMI employees). Of course the employees are now more defensive and that comes back at all of us. What used to be a get up at 5AM and set it on cuise control day is now a gigantic hassle. I don't know how the employess stand it.

Seems like the expats here are getting more short/ill tempered and demanding. Possible that more low lifes are camping out here in bigger numbers these days.

Only ONE of the unpleasant situations I've ever witnessed were Thai generated. All the rest were expats creating problems. Going into the city isn't as much fun as it once was.

I know what you mean about immigration. I always find some one interesting to chat with and yes people are getting ruder.

I don't think it is because the people are younger I think it is the older people are getting older.LOL

Talk to a lot of them they are still stuck in the past.

I have to laugh every time I think about the city life article that interviewed the head of immigration in Chiang Mai. He said Bangkok had OK ed 14 more staff the only problem is Bangkok has to do all the hiring and they won't. Then I wonder where would they put 14 more staff Bangkok has not authorized them to build a reasonable facility. It is like a free ticket into the circus watching them and hearing them go on and on and on about something they can not do anything about. Well they could move to the other side of the fence rumor is the grass is greener there.

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I am satisfied with living in Thailand too, but in general, there is a lot of complaining on internet forums. I kept reading about how much better Laos/Cambodia/Vietnam/South America was on Thai Visa, but when I searched local forums for those supposed nirvanas, there were far more complaints than here.

Expats moan wherever they live. Happened long before the interweb was invented. Used to be confined mostly to bars & parties. Nothing new. Wish folk would stop moaning about folk moaning.

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I wouldn't recommend anyone to come to Chiang Mai for anything but a holiday. Too polluted now, not just the burning, but the fumes from too many cars in a bowl of a valley. Too much uncontrolled development. Too much noise pollution. There are beautiful places to visit, at the right time of year, but, to be honest, any newbie thinking of settling here needs his / her head examining. And costs are sky rocketing both from inflation within Thailand & the strength of the baht. Mind you, if any newbie wants to buy my wife's house, "Go for it" thumbsup.gif

Are you recommending another country than Thailand.

I'm not a travel agent.

Just wondering sounded like you were recommending people not come to Thailand.

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I'm a bit confused. I read that the pollution is primarily due to the farmers burning off their land and the smoke being pulled into the cities by the air currents. I also read that the pollution is increasing.

I haven't lived in Thailand for a long time (40 years), but as I remember, field burning was pretty common in those days too. But I don't recall anyone whining too much about it. It was just something to be dealt with and move on.

So, what has changed. Has the farmer burning off his land become more common in the last 40 years, or is it just that people have become more apt to complain?

Is this a case of people moving to Thailand to get away and then complaining because things aren't the same as they are back home?

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I'm a bit confused. I read that the pollution is primarily due to the farmers burning off their land and the smoke being pulled into the cities by the air currents. I also read that the pollution is increasing.

I haven't lived in Thailand for a long time (40 years), but as I remember, field burning was pretty common in those days too. But I don't recall anyone whining too much about it. It was just something to be dealt with and move on.

So, what has changed. Has the farmer burning off his land become more common in the last 40 years, or is it just that people have become more apt to complain?

Is this a case of people moving to Thailand to get away and then complaining because things aren't the same as they are back home?

I suspect that the farmers have reclaimed more of the forests & National-Parks, so that there are more fields to burn-off, than there were 40 years ago ?

Throw-in the extra vehicles, and the lignite-burning power-station down at Lampang, then-again better-transport & electricity do improve life too, don't they ?

I myself am still very happy that we chose Chiang Mai to retire to !

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I do understand but don't subscribe to the angst about the immigration office.

I have my extension in December/January when it's cool, so I sit outside and have a latte, then watch the circus. It's a great show; they should charge admission. smile.png

I also experienced the Pattaya office recently; yes it's more efficient, but it lacks any nice space to sit and watch the show. It feels more like the waiting area to pay your electricity or phone bill.

I might actually miss the current facility when it all gets upgraded to a large Farang Processing Factory.

Edited by WinnieTheKhwai
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I haven't lived in Thailand for a long time (40 years), but as I remember, field burning was pretty common in those days too. But I don't recall anyone whining too much about it. It was just something to be dealt with and move on.

So, what has changed. Has the farmer burning off his land become more common in the last 40 years, or is it just that people have become more apt to complain?

I hardly ever heard people complaining about it in daily life until pretty recently. It is the Internet that has made it such a big topic. In a simular vein, I never heard anyone get uptight about being called farang until a few posters on Thai Visa started claiming that it is an insult and convinced other (gullible) Westerners that it is true.

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If you search the internet forums about other countries, you will see it is exactly the same for the better places to live. People are never satisfied.

I'm satisfied!

I reside in Chiang Rai which, in my opinion, is better than C.Mai in several ways. However, I'm not satisfied here because I've had many things ripped off. Admittedly, it's at least partly my fault because I have a couple of rural properties spread out - which don't always have caretakers residing upon them. I also don't have bars on my windows and don't have walls/barbed wire fences all around properties, which is Thai/Asian style. I should make my properties more like fortresses, and not be so trusting, then I'll likely get less trouble from thieves. Clarification: it only takes one thief to ruin an otherwise decent existence. Example, one guy had a penchant for electrical things, so he would literally pull electric wires down from poles, pull up underground conduit, and steal batteries out of cars. It's the one black spot for me residing in Thailand for 15 years. And then there are rip offs from accounts in banks via ATM, and online rip-offs, and so on. And I didn't even mention ex-gf's and ex-wives.... a whole other chapter.

Thailand has beautiful coastal areas with fresh sea air. Why on earth would you want to settle somewhere inland with pollution in CM figuring highly for example. I agree with one poster, CM ok for a holiday only. One week is pelnty !

If you read the news, you'll see that lots of bad things happen at Thailand's most popular beach resorts. Murders etc, on a daily basis. Perhaps dusty air is a fair trade-off. Also, you'll notice that 99% of residents of beach resorts rarely visit the beaches. They're too busy with their daily grind after initially indulging in the pleasures of the beach and surf, they take them for granted.

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I'm a bit confused. I read that the pollution is primarily due to the farmers burning off their land and the smoke being pulled into the cities by the air currents. I also read that the pollution is increasing.

I haven't lived in Thailand for a long time (40 years), but as I remember, field burning was pretty common in those days too. But I don't recall anyone whining too much about it. It was just something to be dealt with and move on.

So, what has changed. Has the farmer burning off his land become more common in the last 40 years, or is it just that people have become more apt to complain?

Is this a case of people moving to Thailand to get away and then complaining because things aren't the same as they are back home?

I suspect that the farmers have reclaimed more of the forests & National-Parks, so that there are more fields to burn-off, than there were 40 years ago ?

Not necessarily forest / NP land, but just given that there are more people and a bigger export market would make it safe to assume that more farming goes on now than before. However, you are assuming that the smog/haze is worse now than before; that is not the case. There's no data going back 40 years, but there is well over a decade of air quality data, showing an improving trend. (with some peaks and lows, but overall improving.) Tune in tomorrow for my post on this topic in the pinned discussion, when I will be posting the totals for this season and compare them to past years. (Short version: It was overall a (very slightly better than) average season, which however started later than usual and also continued longer than usual)

There is, of course, a much increased awareness about the problem, and this is good. Perhaps 20 years ago people looked at hazy mountains (or no mountains) and thought 'oh well'. I remember being at the airport about 12-15 or so years ago in March and couldn't see the mountain FROM THE AIRPORT which is right next to it. Yes, it was bad (worse, actually) before too. I just thought 'well that's odd'. On my first visit to Chiang Mai in 1994 it took 2-3 months before I even realized there were mountains on the Sankamphaeng/Mae On side too. :)

Right now there is the awareness that this is bad for your health, especially for children, the elderly and those with existing respiratory conditions. I now plan holidays for March. It's a good time for a holiday anyway, with schools being closed.

Edited by WinnieTheKhwai
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I'm a bit confused. I read that the pollution is primarily due to the farmers burning off their land and the smoke being pulled into the cities by the air currents. I also read that the pollution is increasing.

I haven't lived in Thailand for a long time (40 years), but as I remember, field burning was pretty common in those days too. But I don't recall anyone whining too much about it. It was just something to be dealt with and move on.

So, what has changed. Has the farmer burning off his land become more common in the last 40 years, or is it just that people have become more apt to complain?

Is this a case of people moving to Thailand to get away and then complaining because things aren't the same as they are back home?

I suspect that the farmers have reclaimed more of the forests & National-Parks, so that there are more fields to burn-off, than there were 40 years ago ?

Throw-in the extra vehicles, and the lignite-burning power-station down at Lampang, then-again better-transport & electricity do improve life too, don't they ?

I myself am still very happy that we chose Chiang Mai to retire to !

True they have but civilization has reclaimed more of the rice fields.

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I love it here, love it so much I'm buying a house.

We moved into our new home 2 months ago after a 6-7 month building period, and after renting for 20+ years. The construction/ house agency mentioned last week that had we started now there is no way they could sell us the 130+ sq meter property and house with our-added specs, for the price they did: if ever we decided to sell in the not too distant future they would pay us our costs 'plus'.

Their newest creation has all but sold out though most yet to be built, started at Baht 4-5 Million with the latest selling for Baht 6 Million plus.

They are having difficulty purchasing further reasonably priced Chiang Mai property sufficient for new housing estates because 'rich' Bankokians amongst others are buying up all available surrounding rice fields and land. They are kicking themselves for not having seen the trend before it enveloped them.

Any way, hope you've signed on the dotted line to lock in your new house price.

BTW, Siam Commercial Bank (SCB) will write mortgages for farang-Thai couples purchasing in approved housing estates; they seem to be the only bank that willingly does so for non-Thais in our experience

Cheers

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We bought a great little new house in San Pu Loie 14 months, but I was working near CMU, and once I left work at 5pm, and it took me 2 hours to drive home-the traffic was THAT bad! It reminded me of peak hour in Sydney.........The norm was 1-1,5 hours drive in the traffic.

The pollution is bad January-April, and the oppressive heat can be stifling.

I like Chiang Mai, but it needs a decent public transport system, because tuk tuks and songtiews just don't cut it any more. McCormick is an excellent hospital for a mid-aged bloke like me,but because I rather like Chiang Rai and its proximity to Mae Sai, can anyone tell me if there is a decent hospital in Chiang Rai?

I have escaped back to my beloved Middle Kingdom at the moment-more pay and less pollution here!

why not live close to your work.

We bought a great little new house in San Pu Loie 14 months, but I was working near CMU, and once I left work at 5pm, and it took me 2 hours to drive home-the traffic was THAT bad! It reminded me of peak hour in Sydney....

Exit CMU to the South and then either through Wing 41 Air base and Aom Muang, or down the Canal Road and then the Middle Ring? Longer distance, but there's no way that takes more than 30-40 minutes also in rush hour? The only significant intersection in that case is the Payom intersection. (Suthep Rd and the Canal Road).

i never understand people who live far from their working place and then complain about the daily commute.

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I love this city and in the years I have stayed here given me more than the mega cities I vist regularly for business. I love coming to CM airport and watch the amazement on some faces that this is an international airport...I love getting excited abt Mcd opening at the airport...

I like the chaos, I like the fact that people dont park or drive properly (heck I bike with my bald head helmet) I like the friendly smiles i get all the time, I like Swensens...I love the small shopping malls (well for now...hahha) I love the food here, I love the hotels and their buffets, I love the house and the smog (good reason for a short vacation) I love Big C and the foodcourts...I love the quirky photos Thais like to pose for at HarborPlaza...the mall sucks but the people having fun does not

In short I'm positive and love living here ! Be here for the longest time and the woman up north are just nice. Wow...what a change from the stuck ups I have seen in my time...

Lawrence

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Mrs. T was not keen on moving here and had to be hard-sold on the idea. As our kids will soon enough be off to college, I broached the subject of moving to KL, or further south or out of Asia entirely. No dice. It seems Chiangmai has a tendency to grow on you.

CM is great for some, but not for others. The real question OP should be asking is this: is CM a good retirement place for ME?

To even begin answering that question, one has to first understand oneself and one's situation, starting with three main headings: health, wealth and interests.

T

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Avoid Chiang Mai for several reasons: The air is thick with smoke from late January to mid to late April. It's awful. Chiang Mai enjoys a magical reputation among the Thai, and the residents believe it. A bit of an attitude. I believe the people in Bangkok are much, much nicer. Chiang Mai is a party town. Many Bangkok retirees means a lot of bars and loud music. Good luck getting sleep anywhere. I lived in Chiang Mai for 14 months and moved 7 times. In no place did I ever feel settled because of noise, the feel of the aparment, or noisy neighbors (not just Thai...older farang bringing home bar girls and laughing, giggling in the corridors, the booming voices of the Yeropians, the loud televisions, talking on cell phones outside the paper thin doors, booming bass radiating from bars which spring up EVERYWHERE. Yes, I was near 700-year stadium and CMU, but, believe it or not, the quietest place I stayed was the old city, but the building was old, and the occupants were old, and it felt like a convalescent home.

Not happy.

Chiang Rai was the same for multiple reasons. First, there's little or no farang food up there, fewer people speak English. The people are nice--not as schemy-scammy-saccharine-sweet as those in Chiang Mai because they're not in on the game, but the only people who seem to take a genuine interest in men there are the massage/bar girls. (Of course, this is true countrywide.) I was in Koh Chang for a month. Boring. Packed with smelly Russians and other tourists. A bit dirty--litter everywhere on this island paradise and in two days you've seen it all. Places to stay there? Very high end hotels and somewhat low end monthly rentals. Nothing in between. And the internet? What internet?

I'm now in Bangkok. No smoke issues. No noise issues. Lots to do. The airport is nearby with easy access and cheap flights EVERYWHERE. Immigration is a bit removed, but they're very efficient. The US Embassy is well organized, efficient and happy.

I would strongly consider Hong Kong--if you have the money. I would consider Sai Gon. I really liked Sai Gon. The people in Burma are very, very nice.

The people in China are nice, too, but getting a visa from the Chinese Embassy in Bangkok is a SERIOUS nightmare. These people are not masters of customer service.

My advice: Come to Thailand, target mid to low-range hotels, pack very, very lightly (laundry services for the most part are very, very good and very cheap), and look around. A lot of feeling good here is a lot about the people you're around. Don't believe the guide books or ANYTHING you read on the internet. Explore. Go on an adventure. It won't be easy, but it's far from impossible.

Sai gon? That wouldn't be Ho Chi Minh City by any chance? Why the old name? What? Oh, I see, I forgot about that little incident in 1975..

City residents use the names interchangeably.

Edited by crusader79
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Avoid Chiang Mai for several reasons: The air is thick with smoke from late January to mid to late April. It's awful. Chiang Mai enjoys a magical reputation among the Thai, and the residents believe it. A bit of an attitude. I believe the people in Bangkok are much, much nicer. Chiang Mai is a party town. Many Bangkok retirees means a lot of bars and loud music. Good luck getting sleep anywhere. I lived in Chiang Mai for 14 months and moved 7 times. In no place did I ever feel settled because of noise, the feel of the aparment, or noisy neighbors (not just Thai...older farang bringing home bar girls and laughing, giggling in the corridors, the booming voices of the Yeropians, the loud televisions, talking on cell phones outside the paper thin doors, booming bass radiating from bars which spring up EVERYWHERE. Yes, I was near 700-year stadium and CMU, but, believe it or not, the quietest place I stayed was the old city, but the building was old, and the occupants were old, and it felt like a convalescent home.

Not happy.

Chiang Rai was the same for multiple reasons. First, there's little or no farang food up there, fewer people speak English. The people are nice--not as schemy-scammy-saccharine-sweet as those in Chiang Mai because they're not in on the game, but the only people who seem to take a genuine interest in men there are the massage/bar girls. (Of course, this is true countrywide.) I was in Koh Chang for a month. Boring. Packed with smelly Russians and other tourists. A bit dirty--litter everywhere on this island paradise and in two days you've seen it all. Places to stay there? Very high end hotels and somewhat low end monthly rentals. Nothing in between. And the internet? What internet?

I'm now in Bangkok. No smoke issues. No noise issues. Lots to do. The airport is nearby with easy access and cheap flights EVERYWHERE. Immigration is a bit removed, but they're very efficient. The US Embassy is well organized, efficient and happy.

I would strongly consider Hong Kong--if you have the money. I would consider Sai Gon. I really liked Sai Gon. The people in Burma are very, very nice.

The people in China are nice, too, but getting a visa from the Chinese Embassy in Bangkok is a SERIOUS nightmare. These people are not masters of customer service.

My advice: Come to Thailand, target mid to low-range hotels, pack very, very lightly (laundry services for the most part are very, very good and very cheap), and look around. A lot of feeling good here is a lot about the people you're around. Don't believe the guide books or ANYTHING you read on the internet. Explore. Go on an adventure. It won't be easy, but it's far from impossible.

Sai gon? That wouldn't be Ho Chi Minh City by any chance? Why the old name? What? Oh, I see, I forgot about that little incident in 1975..

City residents use the names interchangeably.

Does any one know if KhunHehe has ever been to Thailand?

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Avoid Chiang Mai for several reasons: The air is thick with smoke from late January to mid to late April. It's awful. Chiang Mai enjoys a magical reputation among the Thai, and the residents believe it. A bit of an attitude. I believe the people in Bangkok are much, much nicer. Chiang Mai is a party town. Many Bangkok retirees means a lot of bars and loud music. Good luck getting sleep anywhere. I lived in Chiang Mai for 14 months and moved 7 times. In no place did I ever feel settled because of noise, the feel of the aparment, or noisy neighbors (not just Thai...older farang bringing home bar girls and laughing, giggling in the corridors, the booming voices of the Yeropians, the loud televisions, talking on cell phones outside the paper thin doors, booming bass radiating from bars which spring up EVERYWHERE. Yes, I was near 700-year stadium and CMU, but, believe it or not, the quietest place I stayed was the old city, but the building was old, and the occupants were old, and it felt like a convalescent home.

Not happy.

Chiang Rai was the same for multiple reasons. First, there's little or no farang food up there, fewer people speak English. The people are nice--not as schemy-scammy-saccharine-sweet as those in Chiang Mai because they're not in on the game, but the only people who seem to take a genuine interest in men there are the massage/bar girls. (Of course, this is true countrywide.) I was in Koh Chang for a month. Boring. Packed with smelly Russians and other tourists. A bit dirty--litter everywhere on this island paradise and in two days you've seen it all. Places to stay there? Very high end hotels and somewhat low end monthly rentals. Nothing in between. And the internet? What internet?

I'm now in Bangkok. No smoke issues. No noise issues. Lots to do. The airport is nearby with easy access and cheap flights EVERYWHERE. Immigration is a bit removed, but they're very efficient. The US Embassy is well organized, efficient and happy.

I would strongly consider Hong Kong--if you have the money. I would consider Sai Gon. I really liked Sai Gon. The people in Burma are very, very nice.

The people in China are nice, too, but getting a visa from the Chinese Embassy in Bangkok is a SERIOUS nightmare. These people are not masters of customer service.

My advice: Come to Thailand, target mid to low-range hotels, pack very, very lightly (laundry services for the most part are very, very good and very cheap), and look around. A lot of feeling good here is a lot about the people you're around. Don't believe the guide books or ANYTHING you read on the internet. Explore. Go on an adventure. It won't be easy, but it's far from impossible.

Sai gon? That wouldn't be Ho Chi Minh City by any chance? Why the old name? What? Oh, I see, I forgot about that little incident in 1975..

City residents use the names interchangeably.

They definitely know the name Saigon, and I think it's still official in one part of HCM. ah, whatever.

I never say Bangkok...I only say Krung Thep Maha Nakhon.

I would never recommend Bangkok over CM, but that's just me. and only me. I can see working in a concrete jungle, but not there for vacation. I spent over 1 week there, it was ok. just not my thing.

Saigon has 1 billion motorbikes on the road 24/7.....it's comical. but the food there, I thought, was great. people are pushy, but I liked Saigon. I would recommend going there and then using that as a hub to explore other parts of Vietnam.

Edited by puukao
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I wouldn't recommend anyone to come to Chiang Mai for anything but a holiday. Too polluted now, not just the burning, but the fumes from too many cars in a bowl of a valley. Too much uncontrolled development. Too much noise pollution. There are beautiful places to visit, at the right time of year, but, to be honest, any newbie thinking of settling here needs his / her head examining. And costs are sky rocketing both from inflation within Thailand & the strength of the baht. Mind you, if any newbie wants to buy my wife's house, "Go for it" thumbsup.gif

Everyone has view, I am a newbie to chiang mai and i recommend it for long stay, great facilities and great food, coffee, but as the poster above said there is too much development and too much traffic ( in the peak periods of dec to april ).

I am planning to stay away from chiang mai during the peak times and relocate to another area of thailand for 6 months.

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Slightly off topic........ does anyone remember when Immigration would refuse to service someone that was not "dressed politely" ?

MSPain

Do you mean: แมลงวันของคุณจะถูกยกเลิกได้

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Slightly off topic........ does anyone remember when Immigration would refuse to service someone that was not "dressed politely" ?

MSPain

Do you mean: แมลงวันของคุณจะถูกยกเลิกได้

Nope. There used to be, may still be for all I know, a sign that basically said you must be "dressed politely" at Immigration.

Edited by hml367
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Slightly off topic........ does anyone remember when Immigration would refuse to service someone that was not "dressed politely" ?

MSPain

Do you mean: <thai text>

Probably not.

(Hint: Google translate doesn't work well enough for that. Better you hear it here/now than when you write somethign to someone significant.)

Edited by WinnieTheKhwai
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