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Is Chiangmai Still A Good Retirement Place?


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Posted

When we arived in Thailand 4 years ago we decided to make Chiang Mai our home - however after having bought land and built 2 houses in Hang Dong we experienced our first ( and last ) pollution haze caused by the burning of the fields. It was horrendous , stinging eyes , burning throat and greatly reduced visibility in the area.

The second year we left for 8 weeks to escape the worst of the pollution and then reluctanly decided to quit Chiang Mai for good as we have 2 young children under 10 who by this time had developed daily dry coughs since living there. You can check the daily pollution levels in Chiang Mai on http://aqmthai.servehttp.com/aqi.php and it also has historical data going back many years

Chiang Mai is a great place to live but until the authorities do something about the pollution levels you need to consider moving out for 6-8 weeks every year during March/April when the pollution readings reach their peak.

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Posted

Chiang Mai is a big city getting bigger. It has no parks to speak of. There is a relatively nice hill west of town, but to get to the waterfall there, you need to negotiate their two-tiered pricing arrangement: High price if you have hairy arms and a pointy nose - low price if you don't.

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Posted

I love living in Chiang Mai (4 years now) but it now seems like a Boom Town atmosphere has developed. To be fair, I know that was well under way before i ever thought about showing up here. The bad air is definitely a drag. They blame the farmers for burning the fields, but I think much more of it comes from the cars and motorbikes. The traffic, while nowhere near as bad as BKK, is pretty damned horrible.

Great bookstores, plenty of fine people to meet, but the relentless pace of change is making me think my days here are numbered. It's been a life-changing ride for me, but I don't think I'll stay.

  • Like 2
Posted (edited)

Thanks you guys for the feedback. yes, i prefer to live in the countryside while earning money from internet. That is my plan. if there is an alternative place i can check it out, don't mind sharing.

Just outside Bangkok is good in my opinion. Lots of places but a few would be Pakchong about 150 kms from Bkk, Saraburi 100 kms from Bkk, Korat 200 kms from Bkk, Nontaburi 30 kms from Bkk, Pathum Thani 30 kms from Bkk.

Its always good to not be too far from Bkk for shopping, embassy stuff, and medical treatment. I was around CM in the mid 90s, I did not think much of the place then to be honest with you.

Edited by rotary
  • Like 2
Posted (edited)

Avoid Chiang Mai for several reasons: The air is thick with smoke from late January to mid to late April. It's awful. Chiang Mai enjoys a magical reputation among the Thai, and the residents believe it. A bit of an attitude. I believe the people in Bangkok are much, much nicer. Chiang Mai is a party town. Many Bangkok retirees means a lot of bars and loud music. Good luck getting sleep anywhere. I lived in Chiang Mai for 14 months and moved 7 times. In no place did I ever feel settled because of noise, the feel of the aparment, or noisy neighbors (not just Thai...older farang bringing home bar girls and laughing, giggling in the corridors, the booming voices of the Yeropians, the loud televisions, talking on cell phones outside the paper thin doors, booming bass radiating from bars which spring up EVERYWHERE. Yes, I was near 700-year stadium and CMU, but, believe it or not, the quietest place I stayed was the old city, but the building was old, and the occupants were old, and it felt like a convalescent home.

Not happy.

Chiang Rai was the same for multiple reasons. First, there's little or no farang food up there, fewer people speak English. The people are nice--not as schemy-scammy-saccharine-sweet as those in Chiang Mai because they're not in on the game, but the only people who seem to take a genuine interest in men there are the massage/bar girls. (Of course, this is true countrywide.) I was in Koh Chang for a month. Boring. Packed with smelly Russians and other tourists. A bit dirty--litter everywhere on this island paradise and in two days you've seen it all. Places to stay there? Very high end hotels and somewhat low end monthly rentals. Nothing in between. And the internet? What internet?

I'm now in Bangkok. No smoke issues. No noise issues. Lots to do. The airport is nearby with easy access and cheap flights EVERYWHERE. Immigration is a bit removed, but they're very efficient. The US Embassy is well organized, efficient and happy.

I would strongly consider Hong Kong--if you have the money. I would consider Sai Gon. I really liked Sai Gon. The people in Burma are very, very nice.

The people in China are nice, too, but getting a visa from the Chinese Embassy in Bangkok is a SERIOUS nightmare. These people are not masters of customer service.

My advice: Come to Thailand, target mid to low-range hotels, pack very, very lightly (laundry services for the most part are very, very good and very cheap), and look around. A lot of feeling good here is a lot about the people you're around. Don't believe the guide books or ANYTHING you read on the internet. Explore. Go on an adventure. It won't be easy, but it's far from impossible.

Edited by KhunHehe
  • Like 2
Posted

I've been here for 4 years as well. Yes it's getting a bit busier on average. But it has always had it's busy periods (Songkran, Loi Kratong, X-Mas and New Year). Right now.... really not that busy.

Yes right now it is very hot, but it's only March - April - May that are unpleasent. The rest of the year it's pretty good.

The smog is really bad this year and yes I do seriously consider renting a room near the beach for 6 weeks or so, next year, to escape it.

With the flogs of people we have seen new restaurants, better coffee places and more things to do. So it really has postive sides as well.

I guess my bottom line is. For roughly 45 weeks a year, there is no place I'd rather be. I do note that I'm early 30'ies and a city person. I can imagine country side people looking for less crouded places but it's not like Chiang Mai didn't have traffic jams up till the last few years. It's been busy on certain times a year for decades.

Posted

We bought a great little new house in San Pu Loie 14 months, but I was working near CMU, and once I left work at 5pm, and it took me 2 hours to drive home-the traffic was THAT bad! It reminded me of peak hour in Sydney.........The norm was 1-1,5 hours drive in the traffic.

The pollution is bad January-April, and the oppressive heat can be stifling.

I like Chiang Mai, but it needs a decent public transport system, because tuk tuks and songtiews just don't cut it any more. McCormick is an excellent hospital for a mid-aged bloke like me,but because I rather like Chiang Rai and its proximity to Mae Sai, can anyone tell me if there is a decent hospital in Chiang Rai?

I have escaped back to my beloved Middle Kingdom at the moment-more pay and less pollution here!

Posted

I come to CM for November-April, and for Nov to end of January the climate is ideal. After that, a combination of bad pollution and suffocating heat make many parts of CM hard to take.

Traffic has become more and more of a "Bangkokian" problem. The good thing about CM is that there are many good restaurants catering to farang food tastes. (I get very bored with Thai food.) And a few good book shops. Lots of coffee shops, but how they make money I don't know, since they are all in cheek-by-jowl competition.

Millions of condos being built, which surely look like over-building, but I am ignorant about the figures in this area, so maybe the condo units are being sold. Very easy to rent in CM, and really that is the only way to go, even if you intend to stay there for 10 or more years.

Posted

Wife and I always have talked about retirement there, but get the same feeling about the place. She's from Petchabun and we hang out there occasionally but have always gone to Chaing Mai for vacation. Love going to the temples and night markets and just hanging out, but the last time I barely could sqeeze down the street at he market due to all the tourist. In addition, the vendors were much less willing to bargin and obviously tourist don't mind shelling out the money for double what things actually should sell for, I hate that. Hell, I can buy silver cheaper here in the states.

That said, Chaing Mai holds something for me, but as far as settling down not so much now. In fact, my wife talks about Laos more then anything, and Costa Rica is a great spot too, just that it too is growing as everyone I know seems to have a family member or know someone with a house down there.

In short, great place to visit, but don;t want to live there (maybe can be saaid for Thailand as a whole now.) Myanmar may be the next place to check out as it is getting more lax these days, save for the rush of people looking for what we all are, less tourist and less expensive.

Posted

Avoid Chiang Mai for several reasons: The air is thick with smoke from late January to mid to late April. It's awful. Chiang Mai enjoys a magical reputation among the Thai, and the residents believe it. A bit of an attitude. I believe the people in Bangkok are much, much nicer. Chiang Mai is a party town. Many Bangkok retirees means a lot of bars and loud music. Good luck getting sleep anywhere. I lived in Chiang Mai for 14 months and moved 7 times. In no place did I ever feel settled because of noise, the feel of the aparment, or noisy neighbors (not just Thai...older farang bringing home bar girls and laughing, giggling in the corridors, the booming voices of the Yeropians, the loud televisions, talking on cell phones outside the paper thin doors, booming bass radiating from bars which spring up EVERYWHERE. Yes, I was near 700-year stadium and CMU, but, believe it or not, the quietest place I stayed was the old city, but the building was old, and the occupants were old, and it felt like a convalescent home.

Not happy.

Chiang Rai was the same for multiple reasons. First, there's little or no farang food up there, fewer people speak English. The people are nice--not as schemy-scammy-saccharine-sweet as those in Chiang Mai because they're not in on the game, but the only people who seem to take a genuine interest in men there are the massage/bar girls. (Of course, this is true countrywide.) I was in Koh Chang for a month. Boring. Packed with smelly Russians and other tourists. A bit dirty--litter everywhere on this island paradise and in two days you've seen it all. Places to stay there? Very high end hotels and somewhat low end monthly rentals. Nothing in between. And the internet? What internet?

I'm now in Bangkok. No smoke issues. No noise issues. Lots to do. The airport is nearby with easy access and cheap flights EVERYWHERE. Immigration is a bit removed, but they're very efficient. The US Embassy is well organized, efficient and happy.

I would strongly consider Hong Kong--if you have the money. I would consider Sai Gon. I really liked Sai Gon. The people in Burma are very, very nice.

The people in China are nice, too, but getting a visa from the Chinese Embassy in Bangkok is a SERIOUS nightmare. These people are not masters of customer service.

My advice: Come to Thailand, target mid to low-range hotels, pack very, very lightly (laundry services for the most part are very, very good and very cheap), and look around. A lot of feeling good here is a lot about the people you're around. Don't believe the guide books or ANYTHING you read on the internet. Explore. Go on an adventure. It won't be easy, but it's far from impossible.

Sai gon? That wouldn't be Ho Chi Minh City by any chance? Why the old name? What? Oh, I see, I forgot about that little incident in 1975..

Posted

Wife and I always have talked about retirement there, but get the same feeling about the place. She's from Petchabun and we hang out there occasionally but have always gone to Chaing Mai for vacation. Love going to the temples and night markets and just hanging out, but the last time I barely could sqeeze down the street at he market due to all the tourist. In addition, the vendors were much less willing to bargin and obviously tourist don't mind shelling out the money for double what things actually should sell for, I hate that. Hell, I can buy silver cheaper here in the states.

That said, Chaing Mai holds something for me, but as far as settling down not so much now. In fact, my wife talks about Laos more then anything, and Costa Rica is a great spot too, just that it too is growing as everyone I know seems to have a family member or know someone with a house down there.

In short, great place to visit, but don;t want to live there (maybe can be saaid for Thailand as a whole now.) Myanmar may be the next place to check out as it is getting more lax these days, save for the rush of people looking for what we all are, less tourist and less expensive.

And how are your lungs? Smokers with 35 years experience last longer here than non-smokers.

Posted

We bought a great little new house in San Pu Loie 14 months, but I was working near CMU, and once I left work at 5pm, and it took me 2 hours to drive home-the traffic was THAT bad! It reminded me of peak hour in Sydney....

Exit CMU to the South and then either through Wing 41 Air base and Aom Muang, or down the Canal Road and then the Middle Ring? Longer distance, but there's no way that takes more than 30-40 minutes also in rush hour? The only significant intersection in that case is the Payom intersection. (Suthep Rd and the Canal Road).

  • Like 1
Posted

Avoid Chiang Mai for several reasons: The air is thick with smoke from late January to mid to late April. It's awful. Chiang Mai enjoys a magical reputation among the Thai, and the residents believe it. A bit of an attitude. I believe the people in Bangkok are much, much nicer. Chiang Mai is a party town. Many Bangkok retirees means a lot of bars and loud music. Good luck getting sleep anywhere. I lived in Chiang Mai for 14 months and moved 7 times. In no place did I ever feel settled because of noise, the feel of the aparment, or noisy neighbors (not just Thai...older farang bringing home bar girls and laughing, giggling in the corridors, the booming voices of the Yeropians, the loud televisions, talking on cell phones outside the paper thin doors, booming bass radiating from bars which spring up EVERYWHERE. Yes, I was near 700-year stadium and CMU, but, believe it or not, the quietest place I stayed was the old city, but the building was old, and the occupants were old, and it felt like a convalescent home.

Not happy.

Chiang Rai was the same for multiple reasons. First, there's little or no farang food up there, fewer people speak English. The people are nice--not as schemy-scammy-saccharine-sweet as those in Chiang Mai because they're not in on the game, but the only people who seem to take a genuine interest in men there are the massage/bar girls. (Of course, this is true countrywide.) I was in Koh Chang for a month. Boring. Packed with smelly Russians and other tourists. A bit dirty--litter everywhere on this island paradise and in two days you've seen it all. Places to stay there? Very high end hotels and somewhat low end monthly rentals. Nothing in between. And the internet? What internet?

I'm now in Bangkok. No smoke issues. No noise issues. Lots to do. The airport is nearby with easy access and cheap flights EVERYWHERE. Immigration is a bit removed, but they're very efficient. The US Embassy is well organized, efficient and happy.

I would strongly consider Hong Kong--if you have the money. I would consider Sai Gon. I really liked Sai Gon. The people in Burma are very, very nice.

The people in China are nice, too, but getting a visa from the Chinese Embassy in Bangkok is a SERIOUS nightmare. These people are not masters of customer service.

My advice: Come to Thailand, target mid to low-range hotels, pack very, very lightly (laundry services for the most part are very, very good and very cheap), and look around. A lot of feeling good here is a lot about the people you're around. Don't believe the guide books or ANYTHING you read on the internet. Explore. Go on an adventure. It won't be easy, but it's far from impossible.

Of course much of the smoke is from after-life barbeques at the local Wats.

Loud city noise can be overcome by getting out of an apartment and out of the city, into a village, learn to speak Thai if you don't, and enjoy the place.

Posted

I love living in Chiang Mai (4 years now) but it now seems like a Boom Town atmosphere has developed. To be fair, I know that was well under way before i ever thought about showing up here. The bad air is definitely a drag. They blame the farmers for burning the fields, but I think much more of it comes from the cars and motorbikes. The traffic, while nowhere near as bad as BKK, is pretty damned horrible.

Great bookstores, plenty of fine people to meet, but the relentless pace of change is making me think my days here are numbered. It's been a life-changing ride for me, but I don't think I'll stay.

Does your 'love' include all the dire drawbacks you mention? It's like saying, "I love my wife, but she's dirty, fat, drives like a drunk escapee from an insane asylum, and always maxing out my credit card, .......etc."

Posted

Wife and I always have talked about retirement there, but get the same feeling about the place. She's from Petchabun and we hang out there occasionally but have always gone to Chaing Mai for vacation. Love going to the temples and night markets and just hanging out, but the last time I barely could sqeeze down the street at he market due to all the tourist. In addition, the vendors were much less willing to bargin and obviously tourist don't mind shelling out the money for double what things actually should sell for, I hate that. Hell, I can buy silver cheaper here in the states.

That said, Chaing Mai holds something for me, but as far as settling down not so much now. In fact, my wife talks about Laos more then anything, and Costa Rica is a great spot too, just that it too is growing as everyone I know seems to have a family member or know someone with a house down there.

In short, great place to visit, but don;t want to live there (maybe can be saaid for Thailand as a whole now.) Myanmar may be the next place to check out as it is getting more lax these days, save for the rush of people looking for what we all are, less tourist and less expensive.

I was there in October, and the food wasn't much cheaper than Thailand, but the portions were bigger. Tons of basic things are imported from Thailand, and I am not too sure about the housing situation, I don't know if you can rent a house as a foreigner yet. The hotels have all doubled to tripled in price until more are built to alleviate the influx of tourists. I also heard land prices are insane as the big families are snatching up as much land as possible before the inevitable boom.

It will be interesting how everything works out, but personally I wouldn't like to live in a country that couldn't at least match Thailand in terms of medical facilities.

I say stick to Petchabun and get a small place on a lake in Khao Koh and watch it become even more of a trendy little place.

Posted

cost of living is part of the concern.. of course, prefer cleaner air..

Cost of living is higher (than a lot of other Thai cities), but the air is clean and you can get anything you want in Hua Hin as it has become a very foreigner friendly town in the last few years.

Posted (edited)

Avoid Chiang Mai for several reasons: The air is thick with smoke from late January to mid to late April. It's awful. Chiang Mai enjoys a magical reputation among the Thai, and the residents believe it. A bit of an attitude. I believe the people in Bangkok are much, much nicer. Chiang Mai is a party town. Many Bangkok retirees means a lot of bars and loud music. Good luck getting sleep anywhere. I lived in Chiang Mai for 14 months and moved 7 times. In no place did I ever feel settled because of noise, the feel of the aparment, or noisy neighbors (not just Thai...older farang bringing home bar girls and laughing, giggling in the corridors, the booming voices of the Yeropians, the loud televisions, talking on cell phones outside the paper thin doors, booming bass radiating from bars which spring up EVERYWHERE. Yes, I was near 700-year stadium and CMU, but, believe it or not, the quietest place I stayed was the old city, but the building was old, and the occupants were old, and it felt like a convalescent home.

Not happy.

Chiang Rai was the same for multiple reasons. First, there's little or no farang food up there, fewer people speak English. The people are nice--not as schemy-scammy-saccharine-sweet as those in Chiang Mai because they're not in on the game, but the only people who seem to take a genuine interest in men there are the massage/bar girls. (Of course, this is true countrywide.) I was in Koh Chang for a month. Boring. Packed with smelly Russians and other tourists. A bit dirty--litter everywhere on this island paradise and in two days you've seen it all. Places to stay there? Very high end hotels and somewhat low end monthly rentals. Nothing in between. And the internet? What internet?

I'm now in Bangkok. No smoke issues. No noise issues. Lots to do. The airport is nearby with easy access and cheap flights EVERYWHERE. Immigration is a bit removed, but they're very efficient. The US Embassy is well organized, efficient and happy.

I would strongly consider Hong Kong--if you have the money. I would consider Sai Gon. I really liked Sai Gon. The people in Burma are very, very nice.

The people in China are nice, too, but getting a visa from the Chinese Embassy in Bangkok is a SERIOUS nightmare. These people are not masters of customer service.

My advice: Come to Thailand, target mid to low-range hotels, pack very, very lightly (laundry services for the most part are very, very good and very cheap), and look around. A lot of feeling good here is a lot about the people you're around. Don't believe the guide books or ANYTHING you read on the internet. Explore. Go on an adventure. It won't be easy, but it's far from impossible.

Chiang Mai has its bar scenes and cheap guest houses. If that is where you choose to live you can expect the noise from bars and neighbors bringing there newly acquired love home.

There is lot's of places to live in Chiang Mai where none of this is happening. A person who lives in those places does so by choice.

The smog is truly bad in March and part of April. It is not like being back where you came from it is socially acceptable to wear a mask to help prevent some of it. As for the Auto and motor bike pollution not really noticeable except in the burning season. Chiang Mai is growing but then again most of us do not spend are time driving around looking at the different growing areas. We may be familiar with them but for the most part they are not a part of are life. Same as Bangkok how many people there spend all there time driving around complaining about the growth. Most people have there areas that they spend most of their time in.

Now if you have a job that does not let you sit in front of a computer you will maybe travel to other parts of the city that you would not normally go to. But then you would not be retired now would you. It is a great city to retire to and like any city has some things you might not like.

Obviously some posters are grabbing at excuses complaining that last week was the hottest in Thailand. That probably happens once every ten years.

Forgot to mention public transportation is here but not much of a factor. How ever there are tuck tuck's and songthows in plenty around the city itself. If you choose to live in out laying areas you would need your own transportation.

Edited by hellodolly
Posted

Anywhere except Chiang Mai (and the North). I'd actually look at the greater Pattaya area, and then be a little outside of the main tourist areas.

They don't call you Winnie the Khwai for nothing i see.

  • Like 1
Posted

Hummm, just had a wild thought. Me and a friend once talked about how much we love it here, and decided that if any of our friends, relatives, associates asked about moving here, we would really trash the place, telling them not to come. Reason? Too damn many farang here now! We're trying to keep it that way. lol

Posted (edited)

I live 70k north of Chiang Mai, on the way to Phrao. I have lived here for 12 years and it's perfect. The air pollution nowhere near as bad as CM city.

I sincerely doubt it. Unless that area is somehow different from everywhere else in the North that has air quality monitoring stations, (Mae Hong Son, Chiang Rai, Phayao, Phrae, Lamphun, Lampang, Chiang Mai) or people making personal observations (Mae Taeng, Pai).

You could really see the surrounding mountains clearly in late March?

Hummm, just had a wild thought. Me and a friend once talked about how much we love it here, and decided that if any of our friends, relatives, associates asked about moving here, we would really trash the place, telling them not to come. Reason? Too damn many farang here now! We're trying to keep it that way. lol

Well DUH!! smile.png Half to three quarters of the negative posts in this topic are of that nature!! clap2.gif

I love Chiang Mai.

Oh hush! ph34r.png

Edited by WinnieTheKhwai
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