engine oil

[shariq607]

nope, i will stick to my korean samsung s4

My new Subaru has semi synthetic 15w 40 from new. Manual states oil and filter change at 1000klm again using 15w 40 then again at 5000klm and switch to 5w 30 fully synthetic, Mobil 1

It's pretty simple, just follow what the user manual states.

I'd be surprised if manufactures used full synthetic from the factory, if that was the case I wouldn't be happy as it hinders proper running in.

And how do you know the fact that the process of breaking in hasn't already been performed in the factory? you do realize the fact that modern engines are tested at full potential and capacity under strict observations at assembly lines ? i am not trying to argue here but please do realize the fact that we are living in 2013 and the japs know what they are talking about.

Sadly you STILL don't understand mechanical engineering stuff. Stick to your iPhone, it's your Jap thing.

[Ace of Pop]

Breaking In at the Factory, thats a new one. Don't forget, Bean Counters,Policy Spinners have a say in how cars are built these days They are built down to a price,not up to an Engineer's Standard. To attain the Quality you refer to 607,you jump to Lambo. Mclaren. Im sure Toyota Trucks fall just a bit behind them.

[transam]

Breaking In at the Factory, thats a new one. Don't forget, Bean Counters,Policy Spinners have a say in how cars are built these days They are built down to a price,not up to an Engineer's Standard. To attain the Quality you refer to 607,you jump to Lambo. Mclaren. Im sure Toyota Trucks fall just a bit behind them.

I totally agree.

[Jerry Cornelius]

Breaking In at the Factory, thats a new one. Don't forget, Bean Counters,Policy Spinners have a say in how cars are built these days They are built down to a price,not up to an Engineer's Standard. To attain the Quality you refer to 607,you jump to Lambo. Mclaren. Im sure Toyota Trucks fall just a bit behind them.

I totally agree.

Not too sure about car motors in the lower budget ranges, but it does happen with bikes. For example MV Augusta do a full dyno tune on every motor they fit to a bike.

However, for what it costs, I would do the same as these guys suggest. Bike or car (even an expensive one).

Call it old school or call it risk mitigation, There's always a chance that a percentage of motors have build issues and for many folks the purchase of a car is a large investment.

Treat your ride as a valued asset.

It makes sense.

Jerry.

[thailoht]

Breaking In at the Factory, thats a new one. Don't forget, Bean Counters,Policy Spinners have a say in how cars are built these days They are built down to a price,not up to an Engineer's Standard. To attain the Quality you refer to 607,you jump to Lambo. Mclaren. Im sure Toyota Trucks fall just a bit behind them.

I totally agree.

Not too sure about car motors in the lower budget ranges, but it does happen with bikes. For example MV Augusta do a full dyno tune on every motor they fit to a bike.

However, for what it costs, I would do the same as these guys suggest. Bike or car (even an expensive one).

Call it old school or call it risk mitigation, There's always a chance that a percentage of motors have build issues and for many folks the purchase of a car is a large investment.

Treat your ride as a valued asset.

It makes sense.

Jerry.

That's it in a nutshell as far as I'm concerned. Having been on engine assembly lines, all types of metal shavings from the attached components are lodged in and can work themselves out of the engine at all different stages.The 'Final Process' department where all of the completely assembled automobile's components are checked has indeed modernized since I first work there, but still, there is no 100% guarantee that all the debris is out despite the 100,000 km warranty - only that it's less likely.

So when I spend my hard earned THB 1.5 million on a vehicle, it behooves me to reduce the 'less likely' factor even more!

[dogpoo]

Reference Nissan March, do the lubrication places within petrol stations carry manufactures oil filters? My car still has one yr warranty, it would be so much easier to go to my local lubrication place rather than making the traffic ridden trip to Nissan!

[dogpoo]

you dont need to change oil for the first 1000 km. what decade are you living in?

Depends on the type of oil used. BUT, change oil and filter first 1000km, then if mineral oil, 5000km (or 6 months if less km), semi synthetic 8/10,000km, synthetic can go to 15,000km. Your hand book will tell you stuff but this is what l would do.

As I said, as an ex race engine builder, that is what I would do to ensure engine longevity of any engine. It is 2013 now and that is still what I would do. If YOU want to save a few baht that is up to YOU. Please don't knock MY suggestion to another member who I am forwarding MY input to advise.

TransAm is exactly right!

This is one of those instances where 'experience' is talking.

Thanks, on this forum we really DO try to help. If folk want to live in the 3 year warranty thing, great. For those like me who want longevity, then listen to me. I don't care about folk who want to save a few baht on oil, I care about answering a question via the bit of knowledge I have.

Rock on folk.

Okay my March is 2 yrs old now, what oil would be best to use other than the standard oil Nissan would use?

[John 1]

you dont need to change oil for the first 1000 km. what decade are you living in?

Depends on the type of oil used. BUT, change oil and filter first 1000km, then if mineral oil, 5000km (or 6 months if less km), semi synthetic 8/10,000km, synthetic can go to 15,000km. Your hand book will tell you stuff but this is what l would do.

As I said, as an ex race engine builder, that is what I would do to ensure engine longevity of any engine. It is 2013 now and that is still what I would do. If YOU want to save a few baht that is up to YOU. Please don't knock MY suggestion to another member who I am forwarding MY input to advise.

TransAm is exactly right!

This is one of those instances where 'experience' is talking.

Thanks, on this forum we really DO try to help. If folk want to live in the 3 year warranty thing, great. For those like me who want longevity, then listen to me. I don't care about folk who want to save a few baht on oil, I care about answering a question via the bit of knowledge I have.

Rock on folk.

Okay my March is 2 yrs old now, what oil would be best to use other than the standard oil Nissan would use?

Fish oil is the way to go.

[dogpoo]

you dont need to change oil for the first 1000 km. what decade are you living in?

Depends on the type of oil used. BUT, change oil and filter first 1000km, then if mineral oil, 5000km (or 6 months if less km), semi synthetic 8/10,000km, synthetic can go to 15,000km. Your hand book will tell you stuff but this is what l would do.

As I said, as an ex race engine builder, that is what I would do to ensure engine longevity of any engine. It is 2013 now and that is still what I would do. If YOU want to save a few baht that is up to YOU. Please don't knock MY suggestion to another member who I am forwarding MY input to advise.

TransAm is exactly right!

This is one of those instances where 'experience' is talking.

Thanks, on this forum we really DO try to help. If folk want to live in the 3 year warranty thing, great. For those like me who want longevity, then listen to me. I don't care about folk who want to save a few baht on oil, I care about answering a question via the bit of knowledge I have.

Rock on folk.

Okay my March is 2 yrs old now, what oil would be best to use other than the standard oil Nissan would use?

Fish oil is the way to go.

You try it first and let us know how it goes!

[transam]

Any engine will benefit from synthetic oil, unless perhaps it is now a high mileage ride. This oil is so good it can find it's way past old oil seals . Been there.

[dogpoo]

Any engine will benefit from synthetic oil, unless perhaps it is now a high mileage ride. This oil is so good it can find it's way past old oil seals . Been there.

Is the standard oil okay providing you change it at what intervals! Car has only done 19k don't think Nissan have ever changed the filter,I could be wrong though!

[transam]

Any engine will benefit from synthetic oil, unless perhaps it is now a high mileage ride. This oil is so good it can find it's way past old oil seals . Been there.

Is the standard oil okay providing you change it at what intervals! Car has only done 19k don't think Nissan have ever changed the filter,I could be wrong though!

Any oil is OK if you follow the ''must change'' interval for that type of oil. As for filter, it is the most important thing, as many have a by-pass valve inside the filter. If the filter cannot flow under pressure through the filter it will open the valve and can dump crap through the engine bearings. Remember one grain of sand can destroy the bearings, not that you will have sand in your engine but just to show you how delicate bearings are. To be sure, put a blob of paint on top the filter before a service. You can check if it has been changed and ask for the old one.

Lets be crafty out there eh.

[dogpoo]

Any engine will benefit from synthetic oil, unless perhaps it is now a high mileage ride. This oil is so good it can find it's way past old oil seals . Been there.

Is the standard oil okay providing you change it at what intervals! Car has only done 19k don't think Nissan have ever changed the filter,I could be wrong though!

Any oil is OK if you follow the ''must change'' interval for that type of oil. As for filter, it is the most important thing, as many have a by-pass valve inside the filter. If the filter cannot flow under pressure through the filter it will open the valve and can dump crap through the engine bearings. Remember one grain of sand can destroy the bearings, not that you will have sand in your engine but just to show you how delicate bearings are. To be sure, put a blob of paint on top the filter before a service. You can check if it has been changed and ask for the old one.

Lets be crafty out there eh.

Cheers I will make sure they change the filter the next time I go, plan to change the oil in a couple of thousand Kms, I have marked the filter. I have an aux oil pressure gauge inside the car, can you tell from this that everything is okay! Sorry not a technical person at all! don't know if this is a dumb question or not!

[dogpoo]

At start up and after a minute or so.

[transam]

An oil pressure gauge will tell you at what pressure oil is flowing, it will not tell you if oil is being filtered or diverted. The gauge will tell you if you have bearing probs if the pressure drops below it's ''normal'' reading at a particular RPM, especially at idle.

[dogpoo]

An oil pressure gauge will tell you at what pressure oil is flowing, it will not tell you if oil is being filtered or diverted. The gauge will tell you if you have bearing probs if the pressure drops below it's ''normal'' reading at a particular RPM, especially at idle.

What would a normal reading be at idle?

[transam]

An oil pressure gauge will tell you at what pressure oil is flowing, it will not tell you if oil is being filtered or diverted. The gauge will tell you if you have bearing probs if the pressure drops below it's ''normal'' reading at a particular RPM, especially at idle.

What would a normal reading be at idle?

Don't know as all engines are different. For instance, my pals Ferrari had 10 psi at idle but was enough to float the bearings. My old Pontiac had 12 psi when the oil was hot, I worked on stuff and changed the oil to 10-60 and ended up with 25 psi, BUT, there was no bearing damage at 12 psi. The oil pump works by the engine, increase RPM and the pump works harder.

When your ride is at idle increase the revs slightly and your gauge will/should jump to a much higher reading.

[dogpoo]

An oil pressure gauge will tell you at what pressure oil is flowing, it will not tell you if oil is being filtered or diverted. The gauge will tell you if you have bearing probs if the pressure drops below it's ''normal'' reading at a particular RPM, especially at idle.

What would a normal reading be at idle?

Don't know as all engines are different. For instance, my pals Ferrari had 10 psi at idle but was enough to float the bearings. My old Pontiac had 12 psi when the oil was hot, I worked on stuff and changed the oil to 10-60 and ended up with 25 psi, BUT, there was no bearing damage at 12 psi. The oil pump works by the engine, increase RPM and the pump works harder.

When your ride is at idle increase the revs slightly and your gauge will/should jump to a much higher reading.

Cheers for that!!

[transam]

My pleasure.