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Posted

I have yet to figure out how to apply chain lube without having serious fling on the back tire.

Has anyone tried this chain paste by Motul? Your thought?

Posted (edited)

Haven't tried this particular stuff.

I've used Chain Wax for years. There is no "consistency" to the wax and it doesn't pick up grit and sand. The chain always looks clean, especially if you have coloured links. Applying the spray wax is easy and no chance of throwing anything onto the tyre, plus it doesn't build up as sludge in the front sprocket casing.

Best to apply it when the chain is hot and wait at least 30 minutes before riding to avoid any fling. Overnight is best. Standard practice for me is to oil the chain immediately after a ride.

Edited by Gsxrnz
  • Like 1
Posted

Bend the tube on the chain lube 45 degrees (it will settle at 30 degrees) and point down.

Or go to Homepro and get a squeeze tube of 'Superlube'

Posted

i use Honda Pro chain spray. Very long lasting, keeps chain clean and easy to use. Probably the best sprayable lube in the market, and available at any Honda dealer / repairshop. The only downside I can imagine is that it costs double the "supermarket" chain sprays.

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The 2nd poster (Gsxmz) was right on the money about avoiding fling: always use the lube on a hot chain. If possible, try to have a speedy, long ride with very little stops so that the chain is hot, immediately apply the lube, then let cool off for at least half an hour, overnight is even better.

  • Like 2
Posted

i use Honda Pro chain spray. Very long lasting, keeps chain clean and easy to use. Probably the best sprayable lube in the market, and available at any Honda dealer / repairshop. The only downside I can imagine is that it costs double the "supermarket" chain sprays.

attachicon.gif08cgb-csm-400a_reference.jpg

The 2nd poster (Gsxmz) was right on the money about avoiding fling: always use the lube on a hot chain. If possible, try to have a speedy, long ride with very little stops so that the chain is hot, immediately apply the lube, then let cool off for at least half an hour, overnight is even better.

how many kilos before you have to relube?

I pay 80 baht for veloil, how much is this?

They have this at Thai Honda dealers?

Posted

i use Honda Pro chain spray. Very long lasting, keeps chain clean and easy to use. Probably the best sprayable lube in the market, and available at any Honda dealer / repairshop. The only downside I can imagine is that it costs double the "supermarket" chain sprays.

attachicon.gif08cgb-csm-400a_reference.jpg

The 2nd poster (Gsxmz) was right on the money about avoiding fling: always use the lube on a hot chain. If possible, try to have a speedy, long ride with very little stops so that the chain is hot, immediately apply the lube, then let cool off for at least half an hour, overnight is even better.

how many kilos before you have to relube?

I pay 80 baht for veloil, how much is this?

They have this at Thai Honda dealers?

I have been spraying the lube quite often - 300-500 km intervals, though this summer I had a 900 km stint, partially in heavy rain, and still it seemed that the chain was still lubed.

I have seen this stuff at Honda dealers in Udon Thani and Nong Khai (so should be widely available), but don't know the price. In Europe it is about 10-14 euros per can.

  • Like 2
Posted

Haven't tried this particular stuff.

I've used Chain Wax for years. There is no "consistency" to the wax and it doesn't pick up grit and sand. The chain always looks clean, especially if you have coloured links. Applying the spray wax is easy and no chance of throwing anything onto the tyre, plus it doesn't build up as sludge in the front sprocket casing.

Best to apply it when the chain is hot and wait at least 30 minutes before riding to avoid any fling. Overnight is best. Standard practice for me is to oil the chain immediately after a ride.

Hi Gsx , Have you found any chain lube here in Thailand?

Last month TSA stole my 2 chain lube cans(not on the hazmat chart & was right next to another aresol can of shaving gel that made it through.) I guess my power commander that got stolen & my Vicodins must have been on the list LOL! So I a am looking for the chain wax. It is great almost no fling if applied after chain is warm.

Posted

I just bought a scottoiler. Will fit it along with my new chain and sprocket set next week.

I have reservations about scottoilers and other auto chain lube systems. Is there not a risk they will be dribbling chain oil onto the road wherever you go? Already too many leaky pickups dripping oil & leaving slippery spots on corners.

All generalizations are false. Especially this one.

Posted (edited)

Cheers KRS,

I already sent him one. Either praise or... to follow.


The scottoiler is a well recognised and regarded system. Google it and check out the reviews.

The unit I have is manual. So no calibration , no risk of over oiling. Simply press the button, Recommended interval is at every refuelling stop. Uses 10-40 car oil (Honda recommends simply oil) or ATF ( as it has additives to keep seals in good condition)

It's not fancy but does the job. Plus one doesn't have to carry a can of oil on a long trip.

loobman.jpg

Edited by VocalNeal
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

I had this 3-step cleaner/lube/wax brought over from the States, and I tried it out today- it works really well- I sprayed the cleaner on, hosed it off after a minute, and didn't have to scrub it at all- the lube and wax are supposed to have very little fling according to reviews- I'll ride tomorrow and see how it goes. It's made by Maxima and was only $28 for all three cans- I would guess I'll get about eight rounds with it.

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Posted

I am from Canada where killing trees is a way of life. Chain saw oil is available in various weights so it will flow in the Great White North winters

IIRC, summer grade is likely SAE (crankcase)30

ATF has a Viscosity of 35 - 55 cSt @40C which is 15-20 SAE crankcase. Intrestingly my old bonnie calls for AFT as for fork oil.

SAE gear 90 is SAE crankcase 40-60

All very confusing as crankcase and gear oils have different SAE scales. It makes more sense to have it all in a cST scale, but alas SAE does not do it that way

The big difference in chain saw chain oil is that it is tacky - really tacky and will not fling off the chain

Interestingly enough Loobman mentions its use iby the London bike couriers

I used it before spray lube was readily available, and now that I have a Loobman am going to try it if it is available here

Posted (edited)

It sounds logical in an illogical way, but I don't see it. Sure the chain moves at around the same speed but a chainsaw need lubrication for the chain rubbing on the bar and to lubricate the cut,not necessarily for the chain per se. Also the tacky nature of chain saw oil would attract dirt and dust on a bike. Whereas as you will know chain saw users take care not to get their saws near the ground where they will pick up dirt. Like anything else it is a personal choice. Any farm shop should have chainsaw bar oil. If you can't find it I am happy to walk to Husqvarna to see if they have it.

Edited by VocalNeal
Posted

yes dirt is a problem and I would not use it on a dirt bike

Less of an issue on a road bike, but still a PITA when the road goes to pot

Thanks for the offer to go to the Husky shop, and I will take you up on it if none to be found here in CM

Posted

I had this 3-step cleaner/lube/wax brought over from the States, and I tried it out today- it works really well- I sprayed the cleaner on, hosed it off after a minute, and didn't have to scrub it at all- the lube and wax are supposed to have very little fling according to reviews- I'll ride tomorrow and see how it goes. It's made by Maxima and was only $28 for all three cans- I would guess I'll get about eight rounds with it.

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Man you are lucky that got through TSA or Covenant security subcontractors for TSA in the states. I am still haggling with why they pulled the exact chain oil from my check in box. They claim the aresol is flamable LOL. They let my shaving gel that is the same.....Rat Bastards!

Posted

The scottoiler is a well recognised and regarded system. Google it and check out the reviews.

I never questioned whether it is well regarded or not - but as to whether it drips oil on the road to help add to the already slippery state of some corners.

I don't see how an auto system can NOT add to the problem of oil on roads, unless you have an extremely low drip rate and very sticky oil.

And thanks for the advice about Google - very helpful.

Posted

I suppose we're talking O-ring chains here. The good news is that they do not really much lubrication, techncially they are permanently lubricated. Much of the stuf people use is just plain wrong, if not damaging. Here's the link to a good article (PJ1 maker), but any competent mechanic will tell you the same.

http://www.motorcyclistonline.com/howto/122_0506_motorcycle_chain_lube/

Key concept:

MC: If an O-ring chain lube doesn't need to get lubricant past the O-rings and inside the chain, what does it do for the chain then?
PJH: It keeps the chain from rusting, it lubricates the O-ring itself and it does provide some cushion effect between the chain roller and the sprocket, which reduces wear on the sprockets and increases the chain's life

.

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