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Frame Geometry


KRS1

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It's a mountain bike hardtail frame intended for offroad riding. Due to the low seat post this would probably also be suitable for dirt jumping, although I am not sure if this particular bike can handle the stress of dirt jumps. The manufacturer used to make a lot of steel frames. Not sure if this is a steel frame.

Cheers, CM-Expat

Edited by chiangmaiexpat
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When the saddle is below the handlebars then the bike is more about descending or trail riding. Easier to pull the nose up for dealing with obstacles. Many riders also find the higher handlebar setup more comfortable because it keeps the rider more upright.

When the saddle is higher than the handlebars its more about generating power and being aerodynamic. Puts the powerful glute muscles into more efficient position.

The handlebar to saddle relationship is a tradeoff equation and is affected by body part lengths. If someone has T-Rex short arms for example then have to take into account for stem selection and frame geometry.

About butting that is wall thicknesses to promote stiffness and or lighten weight. For dropouts I would look for machined or forged to hold up better than stamped (hydroformed) types.

Edited by CobraSnakeNecktie
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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...

LA Elite 2.2

Use; Moderate duty XC [Cross Country] at best.

Do NOT Dirt Jump this bike or ride technical trails/dropoffs. The fork is a 100mm travel Suntour. Rear droput, I'm not sure about. Appears cast or stamped, may have been hydroformed in conjunction with seat/chain stay. [No matter really]

Mech disc brakes. etc

A good starter bike though and great for dirt road cruising.

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