New build....best soundproofing

[bocceball1]

Building a new house on a beach road and need advice on best way to sound proof it. Why....well as most of you know the Thai youth love their boom box cars and playing it super loud....also, some Thai's think its cool to take off the motorcycle muffler so that it becomes a loud screamer. Already built a small cottage and did the following:

Double walls...but no insulation inside the walls

All windows done with 12 mm glass (not the standard 6-8mm)

Double roof......one concrete slab with standard roof on top

Works good .....but this house is further back from the road (25 meters)

Thinking with the new house (6 meters from road) will do

Double walls WITH insulation in the walls

Double windows ....12mm glass on outside....8mm on the inside ...(not the double pane of the west ...just two separate panes)

Double roof.

Any input you all have would be appreciated on beefing up the sound proofing or any other ideas that I have not thought of

Thanks

[jbrain]

In my opinion 2 panes of glass doesn't make sense if they are not sealed like in the west.

Instead of double roof, I would suggest to put sound insulation on your ceiling.

[bocceball1]

In my opinion 2 panes of glass doesn't make sense if they are not sealed like in the west.

Instead of double roof, I would suggest to put sound insulation on your ceiling.

I have been told in the past that 2 panes (or more) IS the solution ....The first to dampen the sound wave and the second to stop it. Most sealed double pane windows in the west are obviously better than single pane but in order to stop sound you need "mass" or an irregular surface (to deflect the sound wave).

Just what I've been told ....but do appreciate your input

Thanks

[bocceball1]

In my opinion 2 panes of glass doesn't make sense if they are not sealed like in the west.

Instead of double roof, I would suggest to put sound insulation on your ceiling.

Also forgot to mention....on a previous beach house I had I retrofitted the ceiling/attic with 8 inch fiberglass insulation. Kept the room cool but really didn't do much with regard to the sound.....as mentioned before need "mass" ....that's the reason for the concrete secondary roof

[jbrain]

In my opinion 2 panes of glass doesn't make sense if they are not sealed like in the west.

Instead of double roof, I would suggest to put sound insulation on your ceiling.

Also forgot to mention....on a previous beach house I had I retrofitted the ceiling/attic with 8 inch fiberglass insulation. Kept the room cool but really didn't do much with regard to the sound.....as mentioned before need "mass" ....that's the reason for the concrete secondary roof

Fiberglass or rockwool aren't aren't acoustic inulation but thermal.

http://www.bradfordinsulation.com.au/Benefits/Comfort/Insulation.aspx

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sound_reduction_index

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Insulation_%28list_of_insulation_material%29

Edit : added link

Edited September 23, 2013 by jbrain

[Crossy]

Do you have space between the house and the road to put up baffles to divert the sound? Trees, shrubs and a fence can make a lot of difference.

[bocceball1]

In my opinion 2 panes of glass doesn't make sense if they are not sealed like in the west.

Instead of double roof, I would suggest to put sound insulation on your ceiling.

Also forgot to mention....on a previous beach house I had I retrofitted the ceiling/attic with 8 inch fiberglass insulation. Kept the room cool but really didn't do much with regard to the sound.....as mentioned before need "mass" ....that's the reason for the concrete secondary roof

Fiberglass or rockwool aren't aren't acoustic inulation but thermal.

http://www.bradfordinsulation.com.au/Benefits/Comfort/Insulation.aspx

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sound_reduction_index

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Insulation_%28list_of_insulation_material%29

Edit : added link

Kinda got that clue when I did the fiberglass insulation and it didn't work.....

In the more recent Home that I did build though, the Mass of a second concrete roof worked great.....and the cost was reasonable

[bocceball1]

Do you have space between the house and the road to put up baffles to divert the sound? Trees, shrubs and a fence can make a lot of difference.

I do .....BUT since the beach and the Gulf of Thailand are on the other side of the road want to keep that view rather than one of a garden of which there will be a small one (have 6.5 meters between the road and the house)

[RKASA]

If you don't seal the double glass with absorbent in the spacer you get mosture that drys and turns milky white and you can't clean them. It is a classic sign of a broken seal on insultation windows. To keep them clean and clear the spacer is filled with absorbent beads during the sealing step. If you use doulbe glass you have to seal them - not for sound or even heat loss but to keep them clean inside.

[bocceball1]

If you don't seal the double glass with absorbent in the spacer you get mosture that drys and turns milky white and you can't clean them. It is a classic sign of a broken seal on insultation windows. To keep them clean and clear the spacer is filled with absorbent beads during the sealing step. If you use doulbe glass you have to seal them - not for sound or even heat loss but to keep them clean inside.

Great idea ....will seal and put an absorbent also.

Thanks

[bocceball1]

If you don't seal the double glass with absorbent in the spacer you get mosture that drys and turns milky white and you can't clean them. It is a classic sign of a broken seal on insultation windows. To keep them clean and clear the spacer is filled with absorbent beads during the sealing step. If you use doulbe glass you have to seal them - not for sound or even heat loss but to keep them clean inside.

Didn't ask .....but since I'm no expert....would putting "Silca Gel" (absorbent) inside the panes of glass and sealing with silicone work?

[jackflash]

> would putting "Silca Gel" (absorbent) inside the panes of glass and sealing with silicone work?

Yes, but if the unit isn't hermetically sealed, you need to be able to replace (and bake dry) the absorbent periodically,

else once it is saturated, it no long works.

Much better to buy the proper sealed double (or triple) paned units.

[RKASA]

It is rather tough thing to do right - the spacers are normally made to be filled with the absorb then the corner piece come togather - the clean glass from a washer is placed on the rack and then the spacer, then the next same size sheet from the washer is flipped and placed on top. Has to be done in short time to protect the aborb. Then a gun with a heavy black rubber cement is spread around the sides and sets up. The double pane when installed has rubber block under it on each load bearing side. The window can get warm enough the glass will slip - this is sometimes the reason for failed seal improper installation. The seal around it need some kind of seal that can take the heat from sun light it is like a solar heater in the sun.

I guess some DIY search on google may come up with a type sealer that would work - but if not done right you will end up doing a load of re work.

[Zumteufel]

Sound is vibrating air molecules tiggered by a vibrating medium - an engine, loud speaker, a voice etc. Sound is transferred from outside to the inside of a house by making the construction materials of the house vibrate, which in turn is transferred to air vibrations (sound) again.

The heavier and more solid an object is, the harder it is to make it vibrate. That means heavy, solid walls. Also, you want thick walls in order to keep the low frequencies out. A more effective (but utopic solution for normal hourse building) is having a "room within a room" solution, where the inner room is mechanically isolated from the outer room.

[jackflash]

Recording Studios have much the same problem, except they are trying to keep the sound in, rather than out.

There's a similar challenge in silencing luxury cars.

The secret is arranging well damped mass in sheets, which are freely suspended so they cannot pass the vibration on to other surfaces.

You can buy special sound insulating sheets which consist of alternating layers of felt and lead.

The sheets are incredibly efficient, but they are rather expensive. Try an aftermarket Auto Shop.

As an alternative idea, some Recording Studios use large wooden wall panels which are filled with dry sand.

And you need to carefully block all the leaks, while providing for ventilation.

Basically this means a fan driving the air through a large muffler, eg a wooden box with alternating baffles, lined with absorbent sheets.

Edited September 23, 2013 by jackflash

[jpc8685]

I just finished building my amateur rehearsal/studio space. Result is good even if I could have made better choices for the windows.

I build double walls and double ceilings as follows: Outside brick wall - Insulation fixed on it - 10cm space - second brick wall.

Insulation product I used is the following:

Zoundblock S050 - 50mm thick, panels of 60cm x 120cm. 347 Baht per m2 From HomeMart.

http://www.cementhaihomemart.co.th/product-detail.asp?product_id=3215

Of course you need to monitor the construction closely... specially the aircon guys or internet people who not understand you have 2 walls and drill you monster holes to pass a cable. Good fit of doors was also a problem.

Hope this can help

[bocceball1]

Hey .....I really appreciate all the feedback....Thanks

It seems like my biggest problem is trying to do the double glass without it being properly sealed. Thinking now maybe I'll go with 15mm glass panes (the widest I've seen without getting into the bullet proof variety) Don't really need to COMPLETELY sound proof the house .....just enough so I can get a good night sleep.

Thanks All

[Anon999]

Sound is vibrating air molecules tiggered by a vibrating medium - an engine, loud speaker, a voice etc. Sound is transferred from outside to the inside of a house by making the construction materials of the house vibrate, which in turn is transferred to air vibrations (sound) again.

The heavier and more solid an object is, the harder it is to make it vibrate. That means heavy, solid walls. Also, you want thick walls in order to keep the low frequencies out. A more effective (but utopic solution for normal hourse building) is having a "room within a room" solution, where the inner room is mechanically isolated from the outer room.

We have single thickness aerated concrete blocks for all our walls and upvc windows with double glazing. The roof space is insulated with conventional 6" thick fibreglass matting on the ceiling and we have a dry roof system with insulation under the tiles.

Even when there is monsoon rain we cannot hear it, the thumping of the drums from the school band opposite or the loudspeakers from the wat, unless the windows are open!

No need for all the complicated solutions being proposed on this forum.

Edited September 23, 2013 by Anon999

[Naam]

In my opinion 2 panes of glass doesn't make sense if they are not sealed like in the west.

Instead of double roof, I would suggest to put sound insulation on your ceiling.

for sound insulation it will make a difference.

[Naam]

Hey .....I really appreciate all the feedback....Thanks

It seems like my biggest problem is trying to do the double glass without it being properly sealed. Thinking now maybe I'll go with 15mm glass panes (the widest I've seen without getting into the bullet proof variety) Don't really need to COMPLETELY sound proof the house .....just enough so I can get a good night sleep.

Thanks All

problem without sealing the panes is condense water in between.

[Naam]

Recording Studios have much the same problem, except they are trying to keep the sound in, rather than out.

There's a similar challenge in silencing luxury cars.

The secret is arranging well damped mass in sheets, which are freely suspended so they cannot pass the vibration on to other surfaces.

You can buy special sound insulating sheets which consist of alternating layers of felt and lead.

The sheets are incredibly efficient, but they are rather expensive. Try an aftermarket Auto Shop.

As an alternative idea, some Recording Studios use large wooden wall panels which are filled with dry sand.

And you need to carefully block all the leaks, while providing for ventilation.

Basically this means a fan driving the air through a large muffler, eg a wooden box with alternating baffles, lined with absorbent sheets.

the walls hardly ever give a problem. the sensitive points are windows and (believe it or not!) low frequencies transmitted through rooftiles to steelstructure to suspension of gypsum ceilings.

[Schuimpge]

In my opinion 2 panes of glass doesn't make sense if they are not sealed like in the west.

Instead of double roof, I would suggest to put sound insulation on your ceiling.

Also forgot to mention....on a previous beach house I had I retrofitted the ceiling/attic with 8 inch fiberglass insulation. Kept the room cool but really didn't do much with regard to the sound.....as mentioned before need "mass" ....that's the reason for the concrete secondary roof

Fiberglass or rockwool aren't aren't acoustic inulation but thermal.

http://www.bradfordinsulation.com.au/Benefits/Comfort/Insulation.aspx

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sound_reduction_index

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Insulation_%28list_of_insulation_material%29

Edit : added link

PU spray foam....isolates sound and heat and protects your roof from damage/burglars...if you really want to go with it, spray inside the two walls as well.

Cheers,

Luc

[maximillian]

How about the entrance doors ?

[khunPer]

It is correct, that mass is the best for sound proof. However, the glass wool or Rockwool isolation between double walls is to stop standing sound waves. Using a comfort block (gassed cement with tiny air bobbles) is far better sound isolation than the normal Thai block. The double glass windows need to be sealed. All, even small, openings or gaps need to be sealed, as sound loves to find it’s way through even tiny small gaps.

I’ve been working with sound recording studios and when doing sound proof between the recording area and the control room, where the sound is played loud during a recording session inside the recording room, we would normally do some 50 to 60 dB sound proof. 6 dB (decibel) is a measure equal to 50% reduction of the sound level, but a logarithmic scale, so 12 dB equals 25%. Also between the recording area and the outside “world” we would need about 40 to 60 dB sound isolation. I’ve also been designing discotheques, where the indoor loud sound level should be reduced around 40 to 50 dB to be an acceptable outside street sound level.

For double walls we normally used heavy mass, like burned bricks (thick granite blocks are perfect), a space of minimum 10 centimeter with mineral wool (other wool materials works as fine, but mineral wool cannot burn), and then a wall of comfort blocks (gassed cement blocks). You can use comfort blocks for both walls, but the one should be double as thick as the standard Thai comfort block. The way you construct houses in Thailand with cements posts instead of bearing walls, you may need to have a comfort block wall inside or outside the posts, as the posts themselves will work as sound transporters (vibration), called a “sound bridge”.

For windows – and that would be between recording area and control room, or between recording area and outside for daylight – we would use double glass (thermo sealed) with 8 mm glass, but laminated from two 4 mm as it reduces sound transport. You can use one layer of 8 mm laminated and one side of 6 mm plain. One thermo window alone would not give enough sound isolation; so two windows with minimum 10 cm separation were used, either as two thermo or a thermo and a single 6 or 8 mm. If windows needed to be opened, for example to outdoor, the frames and rubber seals are very important, so they do not vibrate and all small gaps are sealed.

Cement floors are an excellent sound transportation for low frequencies (bass booms), which can be avoided by isolating the cement from vibration from outside waves. Now in Thai construction, that is a question if you have the cement floor on ground level or it is raised on posts. On ground level the inside cement deck should float on a sand layer and not be cast with the bearing cement beams. That can be separated by just a 1 cm foam plate, or even better with a 5 cm hard pressed mineral wool block. If raised on posts, you may need to stop the sound waves from coming in under the floor and make it vibrate, which may be a question only about stopping the sound from the road. Often optimal sound proof may need inspection in the area and measuring done.

For roof or ceilings, heavy materials and separation are important; and that is often a problem. A double roof do not help, unless it is airtight so sound waves cannot find it’s way in between the two layers of the roof, which may be done by filling (stuffing) the space with mineral wool and stopping as much as possible of sound waves to find it’s way in, but at the same time you will stop ventilation under the roof, which may be a problem. The ceilings are more important, than a double roof. For ceilings double gypsum plates can be used, with minimum 10 cm mineral wool on top (and of course no openings for down light lamps). Be aware of the Thai way of hanging the metal frame in wires from the roof construction, which may perform “sound bridges” and make the ceiling frame vibrate. Adjoins of the gypsum plates shall not be on top of each other, but displaced. All edges or openings shall be sealed, for example with (acrylic paint able) silicone.

Doors shall be heavy (in studios often doubled like the windows or plated with heavy material, in discos you may make a sound lock) and sealed with rubber tape at the frame. Heavy or laminated wood can by used for doors.

Of course you may not wish to make your house like a soundproof recording studio or discotheque, but the information may give you some impression of what may help you, when building your new house. The basic principles are: heavy materials, no gaps, no sound bridges, and all space stuffed with mineral wool.

Hope it may help you and wish you good luck with your new “sound proof” house.

[bocceball1]

It is correct, that mass is the best for sound proof. However, the glass wool or Rockwool isolation between double walls is to stop standing sound waves. Using a comfort block (gassed cement with tiny air bobbles) is far better sound isolation than the normal Thai block. The double glass windows need to be sealed. All, even small, openings or gaps need to be sealed, as sound loves to find it’s way through even tiny small gaps.

I’ve been working with sound recording studios and when doing sound proof between the recording area and the control room, where the sound is played loud during a recording session inside the recording room, we would normally do some 50 to 60 dB sound proof. 6 dB (decibel) is a measure equal to 50% reduction of the sound level, but a logarithmic scale, so 12 dB equals 25%. Also between the recording area and the outside “world” we would need about 40 to 60 dB sound isolation. I’ve also been designing discotheques, where the indoor loud sound level should be reduced around 40 to 50 dB to be an acceptable outside street sound level.

For double walls we normally used heavy mass, like burned bricks (thick granite blocks are perfect), a space of minimum 10 centimeter with mineral wool (other wool materials works as fine, but mineral wool cannot burn), and then a wall of comfort blocks (gassed cement blocks). You can use comfort blocks for both walls, but the one should be double as thick as the standard Thai comfort block. The way you construct houses in Thailand with cements posts instead of bearing walls, you may need to have a comfort block wall inside or outside the posts, as the posts themselves will work as sound transporters (vibration), called a “sound bridge”.

For windows – and that would be between recording area and control room, or between recording area and outside for daylight – we would use double glass (thermo sealed) with 8 mm glass, but laminated from two 4 mm as it reduces sound transport. You can use one layer of 8 mm laminated and one side of 6 mm plain. One thermo window alone would not give enough sound isolation; so two windows with minimum 10 cm separation were used, either as two thermo or a thermo and a single 6 or 8 mm. If windows needed to be opened, for example to outdoor, the frames and rubber seals are very important, so they do not vibrate and all small gaps are sealed.

Cement floors are an excellent sound transportation for low frequencies (bass booms), which can be avoided by isolating the cement from vibration from outside waves. Now in Thai construction, that is a question if you have the cement floor on ground level or it is raised on posts. On ground level the inside cement deck should float on a sand layer and not be cast with the bearing cement beams. That can be separated by just a 1 cm foam plate, or even better with a 5 cm hard pressed mineral wool block. If raised on posts, you may need to stop the sound waves from coming in under the floor and make it vibrate, which may be a question only about stopping the sound from the road. Often optimal sound proof may need inspection in the area and measuring done.

For roof or ceilings, heavy materials and separation are important; and that is often a problem. A double roof do not help, unless it is airtight so sound waves cannot find it’s way in between the two layers of the roof, which may be done by filling (stuffing) the space with mineral wool and stopping as much as possible of sound waves to find it’s way in, but at the same time you will stop ventilation under the roof, which may be a problem. The ceilings are more important, than a double roof. For ceilings double gypsum plates can be used, with minimum 10 cm mineral wool on top (and of course no openings for down light lamps). Be aware of the Thai way of hanging the metal frame in wires from the roof construction, which may perform “sound bridges” and make the ceiling frame vibrate. Adjoins of the gypsum plates shall not be on top of each other, but displaced. All edges or openings shall be sealed, for example with (acrylic paint able) silicone.

Doors shall be heavy (in studios often doubled like the windows or plated with heavy material, in discos you may make a sound lock) and sealed with rubber tape at the frame. Heavy or laminated wood can by used for doors.

Of course you may not wish to make your house like a soundproof recording studio or discotheque, but the information may give you some impression of what may help you, when building your new house. The basic principles are: heavy materials, no gaps, no sound bridges, and all space stuffed with mineral wool.

Hope it may help you and wish you good luck with your new “sound proof” house.

WOW! great info....really don't need full sound-proofing....just want to get some sleep at night ...keep out the sound of barking dogs, motorcycles racing, and boom box cars ....etc. ///

m

My biggest problem seems to me (and I'm no expert) my windows ....and after thinking about it, I'm leaning NOW towards doing the 12 mm glass on the outside with an openable window on the inside (but sealed when closed) with 8mm glass (this way I can clean the windows when the moisture appears). thoughts????

And Again ....Thanks for all the info....

[bocceball1]

How about the entrance doors ?

Good Question.....

The entrance is downstairs ....The property is facing the beach.....Sooooo ...The plans provide for double glass doors (2 of them, lots of light ...take advantage of the view....open up the doors and the inside becomes the outside). The glass panes for the door ...(specs provide for 12mm single pane.....I know a weakness but remember .....I just want the sound reduction for sleeping at night..and the bedroom is upstairs.).

[Micc]

i think u cant do nothing against the crazy "boom bass subwoofer" from the pimped cars.

many time they wake me up because a car far away have this crazy bass and everything is vibrating at my sleeping room and inside my mind i imagine how i kill them all...

[bocceball1]

i think u cant do nothing against the crazy "boom bass subwoofer" from the pimped cars.

many time they wake me up because a car far away have this crazy bass and everything is vibrating at my sleeping room and inside my mind i imagine how i kill them all...

Micc....your right...."boom bass subwoofer" when they have it blasting vibrates the WHOLE house...its crazy...., if they keep playing it that loud their going to lose their hearing by the time their 25...oh well

[HerbalEd]

If you don't seal the double glass with absorbent in the spacer you get mosture that drys and turns milky white and you can't clean them. It is a classic sign of a broken seal on insultation windows. To keep them clean and clear the spacer is filled with absorbent beads during the sealing step. If you use doulbe glass you have to seal them - not for sound or even heat loss but to keep them clean inside.

Didn't ask .....but since I'm no expert....would putting "Silca Gel" (absorbent) inside the panes of glass and sealing with silicone work?

Will work until silica gel becomes saturated.

[khunPer]

It is correct, that mass is the best for sound proof. However, the glass wool or Rockwool isolation between double walls is to stop standing sound waves. Using a comfort block (gassed cement with tiny air bobbles) is far better sound isolation than the normal Thai block. The double glass windows need to be sealed. All, even small, openings or gaps need to be sealed, as sound loves to find it’s way through even tiny small gaps.

I’ve been working with sound recording studios and when doing sound proof between the recording area and the control room, where the sound is played loud during a recording session inside the recording room, we would normally do some 50 to 60 dB sound proof. 6 dB (decibel) is a measure equal to 50% reduction of the sound level, but a logarithmic scale, so 12 dB equals 25%. Also between the recording area and the outside “world” we would need about 40 to 60 dB sound isolation. I’ve also been designing discotheques, where the indoor loud sound level should be reduced around 40 to 50 dB to be an acceptable outside street sound level.

For double walls we normally used heavy mass, like burned bricks (thick granite blocks are perfect), a space of minimum 10 centimeter with mineral wool (other wool materials works as fine, but mineral wool cannot burn), and then a wall of comfort blocks (gassed cement blocks). You can use comfort blocks for both walls, but the one should be double as thick as the standard Thai comfort block. The way you construct houses in Thailand with cements posts instead of bearing walls, you may need to have a comfort block wall inside or outside the posts, as the posts themselves will work as sound transporters (vibration), called a “sound bridge”.

For windows – and that would be between recording area and control room, or between recording area and outside for daylight – we would use double glass (thermo sealed) with 8 mm glass, but laminated from two 4 mm as it reduces sound transport. You can use one layer of 8 mm laminated and one side of 6 mm plain. One thermo window alone would not give enough sound isolation; so two windows with minimum 10 cm separation were used, either as two thermo or a thermo and a single 6 or 8 mm. If windows needed to be opened, for example to outdoor, the frames and rubber seals are very important, so they do not vibrate and all small gaps are sealed.

Cement floors are an excellent sound transportation for low frequencies (bass booms), which can be avoided by isolating the cement from vibration from outside waves. Now in Thai construction, that is a question if you have the cement floor on ground level or it is raised on posts. On ground level the inside cement deck should float on a sand layer and not be cast with the bearing cement beams. That can be separated by just a 1 cm foam plate, or even better with a 5 cm hard pressed mineral wool block. If raised on posts, you may need to stop the sound waves from coming in under the floor and make it vibrate, which may be a question only about stopping the sound from the road. Often optimal sound proof may need inspection in the area and measuring done.

For roof or ceilings, heavy materials and separation are important; and that is often a problem. A double roof do not help, unless it is airtight so sound waves cannot find it’s way in between the two layers of the roof, which may be done by filling (stuffing) the space with mineral wool and stopping as much as possible of sound waves to find it’s way in, but at the same time you will stop ventilation under the roof, which may be a problem. The ceilings are more important, than a double roof. For ceilings double gypsum plates can be used, with minimum 10 cm mineral wool on top (and of course no openings for down light lamps). Be aware of the Thai way of hanging the metal frame in wires from the roof construction, which may perform “sound bridges” and make the ceiling frame vibrate. Adjoins of the gypsum plates shall not be on top of each other, but displaced. All edges or openings shall be sealed, for example with (acrylic paint able) silicone.

Doors shall be heavy (in studios often doubled like the windows or plated with heavy material, in discos you may make a sound lock) and sealed with rubber tape at the frame. Heavy or laminated wood can by used for doors.

Of course you may not wish to make your house like a soundproof recording studio or discotheque, but the information may give you some impression of what may help you, when building your new house. The basic principles are: heavy materials, no gaps, no sound bridges, and all space stuffed with mineral wool.

Hope it may help you and wish you good luck with your new “sound proof” house.

WOW! great info....really don't need full sound-proofing....just want to get some sleep at night ...keep out the sound of barking dogs, motorcycles racing, and boom box cars ....etc. ///

m

My biggest problem seems to me (and I'm no expert) my windows ....and after thinking about it, I'm leaning NOW towards doing the 12 mm glass on the outside with an openable window on the inside (but sealed when closed) with 8mm glass (this way I can clean the windows when the moisture appears). thoughts????

And Again ....Thanks for all the info....

8 mm laminated (2 x 4 mm) may works as well or better than 12 mm single glass, and 12 mm laminated (2 x 6 mm) even better.

A trick when using double windows is to angle the frames a little bit, even 1 degree will do wonders. Of course you have to take into consideration about being able to open or slide a window, but if one of the glass is fixed, you can angle it a bit. Best frame will be wood, as wood absorbs sound. When two surfaces are angled, the standing sound waves will be reflected by the angle (down or up, depending of the angle), and then be absorbed by the wooden frame. With two even glass surfaces, the sound vibrations from the one surface will continue through the air gap and make the second surface vibrate evenly. In a studio you will make a 10 to 15 cm separation between the two windows (double-glass or glass), the more separation, the better sound isolation – but just a few centimeters will work – using a double frame to prevent a sound bridge, with the separation between the frames covered by a sound absorbing material. But again just a single wooden frame with slightly 1 degree angled glass may help a lot.

Principles with sound – both isolation and acoustics – is to avoid even surfaces, and to let a hard (reflecting) surface be opposite a soft (absorbing) surface. You can “kill” sound by acoustic only – that is why some halls are so bad for theater and acoustic music where the audience cannot hear clearly, if the architect don’t understand acoustic design and damp the wrong surfaces. High frequencies (treble) are easily killed, for example with the acoustic plates from Cement Thai, whilst low frequencies are more difficult; that’s why the boom bass travels a long distance. However deep frequencies like boom bass, can be killed by “sound traps” – yes, trapping the sound into a “boxed area” and killing it with damping material like mineral wool.

Not knowing about your specific landscape details, a stonewall (not too fine plastered) to the noisy road, even quite low, or even better an earth embankment with grass and/or some vegetation, may do wonders to the booms bass.