Gypsum Board (Dry Wall)

[FACTOR]

1. What do you think of gypsum board as a layer of insulation between an exterior wall of natural wood and an interior wall of wood panelling?

(That would be three layers -- natural wood + gypsum + wood panelling. I'm looking to keep the noise out and keep the cool air in.)

I'm trying to avoid using fibreglass because of toxicity and fire hazards.

2. Can the interior wall be fixed directly to the gypsum, and a cavity between the gypsum layer and the exterior wall, with studs?

3. Or if I only use gypsum as the interior wall, is there a way to make it look attractive? (only two layers --- natural wood on the exterior and gypsum as the interior wall.)

4. Does anyone know how to say gypsum in Thai language?

5. Is gypsum easily available in Issan, roughly the Udon Thani area?

Thanks as usual for the useful information.

[wayned]

Gypsum board or "sheet rock" is available at most building supply places. To properly insulate the wall for both noise and cooling you should first have a "vapor barrier" under the outside wood siding. Then use the rolls of insulation stapled to the wall studs, paper or foil side to the interior wall, and then put on your paneling. The insulation should have at lest a rating of R4.

[FACTOR]

Gypsum board or "sheet rock" is available at most building supply places. To properly insulate the wall for both noise and cooling you should first have a "vapor barrier" under the outside wood siding. Then use the rolls of insulation stapled to the wall studs, paper or foil side to the interior wall, and then put on your paneling. The insulation should have at lest a rating of R4.

Thanks, Wayned,

Are you saying I should have/could have 1. outside wood siding + 2. vapor barrier/insulation + 3. gypsum board + 4. inside panelling? Four layers?

What is the insulation you are referring to? Fiberglass? I'm trying to stay away from potentially toxic materials, as I have a young child.

If I use the vapor barrier and insulation, do I even need gypsum board? Of can I use both and thus have extra sound proofing and cooling?

Thank you.

[rgs2001uk]

The insulation he refers to is, StayCool, or other brand names.

Gypsum is referred to here as Yipsum.

Many use gypsum as the interior wall, many dont bother.

[FACTOR]

The insulation he refers to is, StayCool, or other brand names.

Gypsum is referred to here as Yipsum.

Many use gypsum as the interior wall, many dont bother.

What is stay cool made of?

Thanks

[Morakot]

three layers -- natural wood + gypsum + wood panelling.

The suggested method would have the following effects:

• Moderately to significantly reduced fire hazards, especially injunction with a gypsum ceiling system and usage of "Type X" boards,
• Moderately increase sound insulation, assuming "drywall finish level 2" or above
• Negligibly change thermo insulation properties,
• Moderately increase the possibility of structural damage, if unintended introduction of water occurs.

Edited November 27, 2013 by Morakot

[sirineou]

why do you think fiberglass insulation is toxic? it is an inert material and ie made out of the same material as your windows or beer bottles, if anything. the drywall could be more toxic as it could grow mold in the Thai humid environment.

attached is a video showing how fiberglass insulation (dont seem to be able to attach youtube video in this forum, there is a link)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UfwIv0hvntw

The prosess is as described by others,

exterior seething ,Vapor barrier(tyvec) , Fiberglas insulation, then drywall, If you are using Paneling to finish the interior, depending on the spacing of your studs, you might not need drywall.

If you Use Drywall, consider using the mold resistant type.

[FACTOR]

why do you think fiberglass insulation is toxic? it is an inert material and ie made out of the same material as your windows or beer bottles, if anything. the drywall could be more toxic as it could grow mold in the Thai humid environment.

attached is a video showing how fiberglass insulation (dont seem to be able to attach youtube video in this forum, there is a link)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UfwIv0hvntw

The prosess is as described by others,

exterior seething ,Vapor barrier(tyvec) , Fiberglas insulation, then drywall, If you are using Paneling to finish the interior, depending on the spacing of your studs, you might not need drywall.

If you Use Drywall, consider using the mold resistant type.

I just heard it might be carcinogenic because the tiny fibers can get into lungs. Maybe I'm wrong. It's hard to know anything anymore for certain.

Well, I'm trying to decide whether to use nothing at all between the outside and inside wooden walls , or only fiberglass insulation, like StayCool, or only gypsum board, or both? I need some advice.

Thanks for the tip about the mold resistant gypsum. I'll look into that.

[sirineou]

millions of homes use Fiberglass insulation in the US I have never heard of any cancer concerns, I am sure if there were any there are plenty of smart layers here who will be filing class action lawsuits. I know it is not good to breath, the glass shards could irritate your lung,and on occasions where I had to crawl in to an attic I would get skin irritation on unprotected areas . But if you put it in the wall properly. it neither comes on contact with your skin nor do you breath it.

As far as drywall is concerned, I have at the major home improvement stores in Thailand, seen a product where the drywall has insulation glued to it's back. I have never used the product, and know very little about it, but it might be worth it to look in to it.

Good luck

Edited November 27, 2013 by sirineou

[krisb]

Ever considered tontine insulation?

To get any real benefit of insulating with gyprock you would need to use a thicker sheet and double layer it or even triple layer it. . Mould is an issue especially since you want to sandwich it inside. Your best bet is tontine insulaton.

[IMHO]

My suggestion would be to remove the current wood panelling, then use foil-backed gypsum so it can help reflect back some radiated heat (no point using foil if it's not facing an air gap). If noise is a real problem, add another layer of thicker gypsum sheet over the top of the foiled-backed layer.

That said, cavity walls are not something I'd generally recommend in TH, as they tend to become breeding grounds that you can't see until it's too late.

[Morakot]

Well, I'm trying to decide whether to use nothing at all between the outside and inside wooden walls , or only fiberglass insulation, like StayCool, or only gypsum board, or both? I need some advice.

Thanks for the tip about the mold resistant gypsum. I'll look into that.

It depends what your needs are. There is no point to thermo insulate if you are not constantly using air con. If you mostly use fans and natural air circulation, insulation is not only waste of money but might also have adverse effects.

Green gypsum boards (moisture resistant) are specifically designed for use in bathrooms and kitchen areas. If your house is normally ventilated, not thermo-insulated, and the likelihood flooding is low, I cannot see why one would use green boards outside the kitchen and the bathroom.

Edited November 28, 2013 by Morakot

[FACTOR]

My suggestion would be to remove the current wood panelling, then use foil-backed gypsum so it can help reflect back some radiated heat (no point using foil if it's not facing an air gap). If noise is a real problem, add another layer of thicker gypsum sheet over the top of the foiled-backed layer.

That said, cavity walls are not something I'd generally recommend in TH, as they tend to become breeding grounds that you can't see until it's too late.

That's a good point about cavity walls becoming breeding grounds. Thanks.

Would there be a way to install the interior panelling in such a way that I can remove it, say, panel by panel, from time to time to inspect and clean?

Install it with screws rather than nails?

[wayned]

Flat head colored screws instead of nails. All of the wood and panels in my house are "screwed" on unless I wasn't there that day and they installed it with 2 inch nails bent over on the other side. The only problem with having Thais use screws is that they will strip the heads and set them with a hammer.

[FACTOR]

Flat head colored screws instead of nails. All of the wood and panels in my house are "screwed" on unless I wasn't there that day and they installed it with 2 inch nails bent over on the other side. The only problem with having Thais use screws is that they will strip the heads and set them with a hammer.

Ah... good point about the workers stripping the screw heads. Guess I gotta keep looking over their shoulders.

Wayned, do you have wood exterior walls and panelling interior walls? If so, is there a cavity between them?

[wayned]

My house is concrete block.

I built my in laws house with block up to 1 meter and the finished it wit SHERAwood on the outside and paneling inside. There is a plastic vapor barrier under the SHERAwood, R5 insulation in the walls and R6 in the ceilings (fiberglass rolls). We have have no problems with bugs or varmints where I live, but the bugs have eaten my fiberboard cabinets in my house i Bangkok. I truly believe that a properly constructed and insulated wood frame house is more efficient than a concrete block house. The biggest problem is the bugs, varmints and cost!

The houses that I built in the southern US (Mississippi - a climate very similar to Thailand 4 months of the year) were all wood frame construction/brick veneer as stated above and had superior insulating characteristics and bugs were a problem there also. I air conditioned (central, one unit) a 240M2 house with a 42000 BTU (3.5 ton) unit with no problems.

[bankruatsteve]

RE screws: if the screw doesn't respond to magnet (a good screwdriver will be magnetized) chances are it's crap and the head will strip off with any resistance. My experience is that most screws that come with something (like hinges) are crap and shouldn't be used.

[David48]

Mate, the gf came across this product ...

In the house repairs we are putting in a false ceiling and she found this insulated ceiling tile.

It's a UK import and not cheap. The Thai website is here ... http://www.pantipmarket.com/items/11261779

I was able to search it a bit more and the same company manufactures an insulated gyprock (dry wall) product.

This is from their UK based website ... http://www.buildingmaterials.co.uk/plasterboard-systems/insulated-plasteboard/gyproc-thermaline-basic-insulated-plasterboard-2400-1200-22mm/

Maybe search the Thai website to find the cost of the product here in Thailand ... but you will need a thai speaker to do it as there is no English Language option.

So there are products out there.

The ones I found are imports, thus costly ... but only you know if there is value in it for you.

EDIT ...

Just found another related website for a product ...

http://www.just-insulation.com/002-brands/gyproc-thermaline-insulated-plasterboard-thermal-laminates.html#axzz2m4RYDkIB

.

Edited November 29, 2013 by David48

[FACTOR]

David48 -- Thanks! That's useful information. Thanks for doing the research.

A few other posters have raised my worry level concerning termites, one even saying the little varmits will eat the paper backing on dry wall. Well, I guess if they will eat anything, it doesn't much matter what you use. And I will not use poison because of a kid and dogs in the yard. Just have to keep fingers crossed, I suppose.

Anyway, thanks again for the info re the insulation.

[David48]

^^ Mate, it was me who said that ... 'eat the paper backing on dry wall' ... seriously !

Shhhhhh ... I'm actually a sparkie (who hasn't worked in the trade for a long time ... but qualified) ... I was stunned when they actually were able to eat through both cores of insulation on an exposed electric cable ... not rats ... termites !!!

Underestimate them at your peril ... they are veracious beyond belief ... seriously.
.

[FACTOR]

^^ Mate, it was me who said that ... 'eat the paper backing on dry wall' ... seriously !

Shhhhhh ... I'm actually a sparkie (who hasn't worked in the trade for a long time ... but qualified) ... I was stunned when they actually were able to eat through both cores of insulation on an exposed electric cable ... not rats ... termites !!!

P8030016LR.JPG P8030015LR.JPG

Underestimate them at your peril ... they are veracious beyond belief ... seriously.

.

David48-- That's right. It was you who said the little buggers eat the paper backing on dry wall.

Now I'm thinking of skipping the dry wall and just having two layers -- outside wood walls and interior wood panelling. But I'm looking for a way to install the wood panelling in such a way that I can easily remove it from to time to inspect and clean the cavity and then put it back up without damaging the panelling. Using screws instead of nails might work, but I'd have to make sure my work crew aligns the screw holes and the screw anchors (sockets? plugs?) exactly.

Hey, you're a sparky? I will need some advice about that as soon as we start the electrickry. Safety is a priority as the house will be made of wood.

[bankruatsteve]

Just curious... where do you plan to source wood paneling in Udon Thani?

[FACTOR]

Just curious... where do you plan to source wood paneling in Udon Thani?

I'm not sure. I was going to ask the same question eventually. There seem to be pretty serious building supply stores on the road between Udon and Nong Khai. Can't recall the names now.

[bankruatsteve]

Just curious... where do you plan to source wood paneling in Udon Thani?

I'm not sure. I was going to ask the same question eventually. There seem to be pretty serious building supply stores on the road between Udon and Nong Khai. Can't recall the names now.

Suggest you check that out sooner than later. Udon Global has wood but most of the "good stuff" is barely above construction grade. The newly opened Home Hut seems to have a good variety of everything but haven't checked out their wood supplies yet. And Do Home will be opening soon but have no idea what they carry. You might be hard put to find anything around here that would be decent for paneling - and if you do, it will be $$$$$.

[FACTOR]

Just curious... where do you plan to source wood paneling in Udon Thani?

I'm not sure. I was going to ask the same question eventually. There seem to be pretty serious building supply stores on the road between Udon and Nong Khai. Can't recall the names now.

Suggest you check that out sooner than later. Udon Global has wood but most of the "good stuff" is barely above construction grade. The newly opened Home Hut seems to have a good variety of everything but haven't checked out their wood supplies yet. And Do Home will be opening soon but have no idea what they carry. You might be hard put to find anything around here that would be decent for paneling - and if you do, it will be $$$$$.

Thanks for the suggestions.