Photo of my house thus far

[FACTOR]

Here's a photo (hopefully attached) of our house at this stage.

Comments welcome on the brick work and other stuff, e.g. roof frame, posts, etc... welcome.

Thanks for all the advice thus far.

[IMHO]

It's a bit hard to comment on without you giving more insight into what you're doing here - you're obviously trying to do something different from the norm with those proud wooden posts, and assumedly wooden floors upstairs?

On thing I can comment on though - I just answered your other question about foil in the roof - but your battens are already on... The foil should go down before the battens. Still go ahead with it though - it just wont' be as effective as it could have been.

Next observation is the battens they've used - what type of roof are you putting on this?

I also can't see any angle bracing on the trusses (i.e. to add lateral stability)?

Also, I could be looking at it wrong, but assuming those wooden beams on the far right of the photo are for the 2nd level floor, it seems like the ceiling height on the ground floor is going to be low?

The section of PVC pipe protuding from the 2nd level bathroom(?) is also a curiosity

Edited December 5, 2013 by IMHO

[NeverSure]

The problem with seeing pictures after the fact is that it's often too late. I would be concerned about the lack of using a proper jointing tool on the mortar between the bricks. It isn't just for looks to round and smooth it. Concrete and mortar always need to be compressed to be strong. That's why you always see it being thoroughly troweled. Sometimes on flat surfaces it is a power trowel.

When the mortar is compressed into the joints it forces air out of the mortar, forces the mortar elements to stick together and bond, and simply makes it much stronger. Running a jointing tool through the joints also pushes the mortar more firmly into a larger area of the brick, creating a stronger bond.

If you were in a climate where it froze sometimes, I would predict that water would get in there and expand and crack your bricks. As it is, it just looks sloppier and lacks the strength it could have had.

If you have any more brick or concrete block work to do, insist on it.

Edited December 5, 2013 by NeverSure

[wayned]

Looks great to me! But beware, the "Termite Brigade" will soon wake up and descend upon you. PVC pie is shower/bathroom drain I assume. If using tin roof supports should be Okay, if concrete, I agree with above that more support is required.

[IMHO]

PVC pie is shower/bathroom drain I assume.

That was my guess too, but why would only one of them be protuding like this when others are obviously routed differently / hidden?

[IMHO]

The problem with seeing pictures after the fact is that it's often too late. I would be concerned about the lack of using a proper jointing tool on the mortar between the bricks. It isn't just for looks to round and smooth it. Concrete and mortar always need to be compressed to be strong. That's why you always see it being thoroughly troweled. Sometimes on flat surfaces it is a power trowel.

When the mortar is compressed into the joints it forces air out of the mortar, forces the mortar elements to stick together and bond, and simply makes it much stronger. Running a jointing tool through the joints also pushes the mortar more firmly into a larger area of the brick, creating a stronger bond.

If you were in a climate where it froze sometimes, I would predict that water would get in there and expand and crack your bricks. As it is, it just looks sloppier and lacks the strength it could have had.

If you have any more brick or concrete block work to do, insist on it.

NotSure about that NeverSure (pun intended )

By Thai standards, that brickwork looks ok. It's non structural and will be rendered anyway. I've seen hundreds of walls just like this, none of them have fallen over

The problem with seeing pictures after the fact is that it's often too late.

Indeed!

Edited December 6, 2013 by IMHO

[NeverSure]

NotSure about that NeverSure (pun intended )

By Thai standards, that brickwork looks ok. It's non structural and will be rendered anyway. I've seen hundreds of walls just like this, none of them have fallen over

Is it true what I hear that Thai houses don't last very long?

I would say that the weight of those bricks on that tallest stack is very substantial, and if it was mine I'd want it as strong as possible. I see big gaps with no mortar. Brick is brittle and if it shifts it will crack. Let's just say that in my country that would never pass inspection.

Up to you.

[wayned]

PVC pie is shower/bathroom drain I assume.

That was my guess too, but why would only one of them be protuding like this when others are obviously routed differently / hidden?

Thai's obvious, automatic watering system for the potted chilli plants that will be directly below it!

[FACTOR]

Looks great to me! But beware, the "Termite Brigade" will soon wake up and descend upon you. PVC pie is shower/bathroom drain I assume. If using tin roof supports should be Okay, if concrete, I agree with above that more support is required.

I plan on using SHERAsolution concrete tiles for the roof.

How can I add more support at this stage?

Thanks.

[FACTOR]

Looks great to me! But beware, the "Termite Brigade" will soon wake up and descend upon you. PVC pie is shower/bathroom drain I assume. If using tin roof supports should be Okay, if concrete, I agree with above that more support is required.

Wouldn't tin be very hot?

What are some other alternatives to concrete tile roofing (heavy and needs additional support) and tin roofing (hot) that is light and cool?

Thank you.

[Mrjlh]

Study the various roof trusses in this link. Will help you understand what is needed.

https://www.google.com/search?q=roof+trussing&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=9TahUoOUOcHCigLcnYDYBg&ved=0CEoQsAQ&biw=1173&bih=573

[wayned]

Roof trusses are internal and can still be added without removing anything that has been done. Study the post above, but I would use: http://toolboxes.flexiblelearning.net.au/demosites/series13/13_05/toolbox13_05/unit8_laying_up_roof_trusses/section1_principles/lesson2_parts_of_a_roof_truss.htm

[FACTOR]

Roof trusses are internal and can still be added without removing anything that has been done. Study the post above, but I would use: http://toolboxes.flexiblelearning.net.au/demosites/series13/13_05/toolbox13_05/unit8_laying_up_roof_trusses/section1_principles/lesson2_parts_of_a_roof_truss.htm

Thank you very much for the link! I've studied it, as you recommended. I believe we have a "king post" design so far in the roof trusses i.e. one perpendicular post going up to the apex.

How about if take it to the next stage of support and use a "queen post"? i.e. a king post with two webs?

Do you think that would be enough support for concrete roof tiles?

Thank you.

[IMHO]

Looks great to me! But beware, the "Termite Brigade" will soon wake up and descend upon you. PVC pie is shower/bathroom drain I assume. If using tin roof supports should be Okay, if concrete, I agree with above that more support is required.

I plan on using SHERAsolution concrete tiles for the roof.

How can I add more support at this stage?

Thanks.

If using Shera/Conwood/SmartWood fiber cement roofing shingles, the battens will be fine. Your foil barrier is going to have a very small airgap though, and seeing as it now needs to go on top of the battens, you are unfortunately going to have a hot roof. Hotter again if you don't put down foil though You may want to consider using foil backed gypsum for the ceilings, and/or adding insulation batts in the roof cavity.

What I was alluding to when I said "add some lateral support" is not what other posters took it as meaning though - I have added some red lines to your photo to show what I mean. Because the trusses are so far apart, and you have only 4 full trusses for the whole roof, the added lateral support helps stop it all twisting in high winds - something fiber cement shingles won't like at all (they're very brittle).

Edited December 6, 2013 by IMHO

[IMHO]

Is it true what I hear that Thai houses don't last very long?

Define "Thai House"

If meaning Issan style wooden shacks on stilts, they generally only have a lifespan of 10-15 years.

If talking about brick and reinforced cement construction (which I think you are), There's plenty of projects around 25+ years old, and plenty of commercial buildings in BKK 50+ years old built using these techniques and "crappy brickwork" and they're not falling over

Chances are most hotels you've stayed at are built this way, with brickwork just like the OP's photo too.

But, don't let that stop you from doing it your way - but don't expect your builder to think you're some type of genius or innovator because your walls are even stronger than walls that were already strong enough

[wayned]

I would do something like this:http://visual.merriam-webster.com/house/structure-house/roof-truss.php. The only problem that I see is that your "king posts" look to be about 4 meters apart and the rafter between them is only supported by the ridge board and there are no ceiling joists with "king poles" for support. I might have done an overkill but I used steel and "king poles" and trusses as pictured in the attachment every 2 meters. The concrete roofing is heavy dependent on which type you choose.

If you intend to install a ceiling you will need the ceiling joists for support anyway.

Edited December 6, 2013 by wayned

[FACTOR]

Looks great to me! But beware, the "Termite Brigade" will soon wake up and descend upon you. PVC pie is shower/bathroom drain I assume. If using tin roof supports should be Okay, if concrete, I agree with above that more support is required.

I plan on using SHERAsolution concrete tiles for the roof.

How can I add more support at this stage?

Thanks.

If using Shera/Conwood/SmartWood fiber cement roofing shingles, the battens will be fine. Your foil barrier is going to have a very small airgap though, and seeing as it now needs to go on top of the battens, you are unfortunately going to have a hot roof. Hotter again if you don't put down foil though You may want to consider using foil backed gypsum for the ceilings, and/or adding insulation batts in the roof cavity.

What I was alluding to when I said "add some lateral support" is not what other posters took it as meaning though - I have added some red lines to your photo to show what I mean. Because the trusses are so far apart, and you have only 4 full trusses for the whole roof, the added lateral support helps stop it all twisting in high winds - something fiber cement shingles won't like at all (they're very brittle).

First, let me share this with you: I am not there at the building site. My wife, who is there, is sending me photos and videos of the construction. I just Skyped with her and she handed the iPad to a guy up on the roof and he showed me the trusses. Now I see there is a bit more support than I thought there was earlier, when you guys on TV alerted me to the possibility there might not be enough lateral support. (I should have had him take a photo I could send you guys but I think he's more used to having a hammer in his hand than an iPad. I was real nervous he was going to drop the iPad from way up there.) First, I thought maybe there was only a "king post" (I learned that on the link one of you guys sent me, thanks) on the trusses, but after my virtual tour of the roof construction I see that there are more supports, or "webs", than just single "king posts". I believe there are four trusses with king posts and webs (queen posts?). I told my wife to tell the building foreman just to make sure the roof frame is strong enough to support cement tiles.

So we'll go ahead with the cement tiles, and my wife prefers a darker color to match the wood; so we'll go with the dark color so now it's even more important to put in some sort of radiant barrier. Does that stuff -- the foil barrier -- go directly underneath the tile roof? Does it go on the floor of the attic, ie. the top side of the ceiling. Thanks for the suggestion about foiled backed gypsum for the ceiling. I'll look into that.

Thank you.

[IMHO]

Does that stuff -- the foil barrier -- go directly underneath the tile roof? Does it go on the floor of the attic, ie. the top side of the ceiling.

It's meant to go on top of the trusses, before the battens go on. Only choice now is to lay it on top of the battens before fitting the shingles.

As for the trusses/supports - just make sure it's strong in *both* directions - even just a few mm of movement will be enough to crack the Shera shingles.

Edited December 6, 2013 by IMHO

[FACTOR]

Or maybe I will not use foil barrier and just use foil backed gypsum for the celiing as you suggested earlier.

Thanks.

[NeverSure]

Or maybe I will not use foil barrier and just use foil backed gypsum for the celiing as you suggested earlier.

Thanks.

It's really important to ventilate the attic. You don't have the benefit of building inspectors who will come out and require such things.

If the attic isn't vented, heat will build up no matter what you do. Also, and worse, moisture will build up and cause mold and mildew.

There are lots of ways to vent an attic, but it comes down to making sure that air can enter lower near the attic floor, circulate and as it heats and rises, exit near the roof peak. Of course those vents should be screened to keep out bugs and other critters. A vented attic will also help keep the house cooler. I've seen several houses in Thailand where the builder was real proud of sealing the attic and using a foil barrier. The foil is great, but the venting is vital too.

Always there must be fresh air moving into, up and through the attic to cool it and (within reason in a humid climate) keep it dry.

[cdmtdm]

use the foil under the tiles , it serves two purposes insulation and also prevents water being blown up under the tiles and tracking down ( make sure they overlap the rolls correctly ) it works very well .... and not expensive

[FACTOR]

use the foil under the tiles , it serves two purposes insulation and also prevents water being blown up under the tiles and tracking down ( make sure they overlap the rolls correctly ) it works very well .... and not expensive

Do I put the foil directly under the tiles, right up next to the tiles in direct contact? Or is there some layer of something else right under the tiles? How do I fasten the foil to whatever surface I am putting it on?

Thank you.

[Naam]

use the foil under the tiles , it serves two purposes insulation and also prevents water being blown up under the tiles and tracking down ( make sure they overlap the rolls correctly ) it works very well .... and not expensive

the foil does not insulate, it helps to reduce radiation by reflection. but if the attic is not ventilated the application of foil is a waste.

[IMHO]

Or maybe I will not use foil barrier and just use foil backed gypsum for the celiing as you suggested earlier.

Thanks.

Definitely use it - if/when one of the shingles cracks, it could save you a lot as a basic leak barrier too.

[cdmtdm]

use the foil under the tiles , it serves two purposes insulation and also prevents water being blown up under the tiles and tracking down ( make sure they overlap the rolls correctly ) it works very well .... and not expensive

the foil does not insulate, it helps to reduce radiation by reflection. but if the attic is not ventilated the application of foil is a waste.

your statement makes no sense ,,,, yes it does insulate by reflection ... i agree ventilation is a key .... for the cost its a no brainer .... and insulation on top the gypsum ceiling can be added later ...the foil goes right under the tile battens ... roll it out and tape up the joins with silver tape ...