LED TV vs Plasma TV

[BritManToo]

AFAIK there will not be any more development of plasma so the current 720 is the best resolution (which is fine for most material today but with 1080 and above becoming more common will eventually be overtaken). The advantage, contrast, may be a double edged sward as the poster noted getting headaches easier watching plasma.

As for the above change of antenna lead (who uses an antenna lead these days?) yes it can make a difference but normally just change of the connector or adjustment of it does the trick. As for "mains" also at a loss to explain that but suspect he is talking A/V, HDMI cables and such. In which case I do not agree that people have to spend 1,000's of baht for name brand magic cables.

What do you mean 720 is the best resolution ?

All my plasma's are 1080p , and Panasonic has a 8K (7,680 x 4320 pixels) resolution.

HDMI cables are digital, they either work or they don't.

You buy the cheapest one you can that works, spending any more would be pointless.

[BritManToo]

Did i read some where recently that they have stopped making plasma tv`s ?

and is that the reason that most outlets are selling them off cheap to get rid of

old stock?.....i dunno

Panasonic stopped making them this month. AFAIK Samsung and LG are still making them.

For me it's easy - unless it's to be used in a bright room, get a plasma. Nothing else matters.

Not sure about this headache stuff - I'm very sensitive to that sort of thing, but no problem with my plasma. Can imagine a plasma in the US at 60hz might be an issue though. Or perhaps a plasma in the rest of the world displaying 24p content at 48 or something along those lines. (edit: or perhaps sitting very close to a massive screen might do it).

Panasonic lost the quality prize for plasma about 8 years back.

Doesn't matter if they make them or not, nobody was buying.

Samsung make the best plasmas.

LG make the worst but they are cheap.

[JesseFrank]

AFAIK there will not be any more development of plasma so the current 720 is the best resolution (which is fine for most material today but with 1080 and above becoming more common will eventually be overtaken). The advantage, contrast, may be a double edged sward as the poster noted getting headaches easier watching plasma.

As for the above change of antenna lead (who uses an antenna lead these days?) yes it can make a difference but normally just change of the connector or adjustment of it does the trick. As for "mains" also at a loss to explain that but suspect he is talking A/V, HDMI cables and such. In which case I do not agree that people have to spend 1,000's of baht for name brand magic cables.

What do you mean 720 is the best resolution ?

All my plasma's are 1080p , and Panasonic has a 8K (7,680 x 4320 pixels) resolution.

HDMI cables are digital, they either work or they don't.

You buy the cheapest one you can that works, spending any more would be pointless.

Not completely true. HDMI cables are basically network cables. There is a difference between cat5 and cat6, however both are network cables. Same applies for HDMI cables.

I have had cheap HDMI cables which worked perfectly, at the beginning, but had to replace them all over time.

[JesseFrank]

Did i read some where recently that they have stopped making plasma tv`s ?

and is that the reason that most outlets are selling them off cheap to get rid of

old stock?.....i dunno

Panasonic stopped making them this month. AFAIK Samsung and LG are still making them.

For me it's easy - unless it's to be used in a bright room, get a plasma. Nothing else matters.

Not sure about this headache stuff - I'm very sensitive to that sort of thing, but no problem with my plasma. Can imagine a plasma in the US at 60hz might be an issue though. Or perhaps a plasma in the rest of the world displaying 24p content at 48 or something along those lines. (edit: or perhaps sitting very close to a massive screen might do it).

Panasonic lost the quality prize for plasma about 8 years back.

Doesn't matter if they make them or not, nobody was buying.

Samsung make the best plasmas.

LG make the worst but they are cheap.

LG produced the plasma panels for several other name brands.

[BritManToo]

AFAIK there will not be any more development of plasma so the current 720 is the best resolution (which is fine for most material today but with 1080 and above becoming more common will eventually be overtaken). The advantage, contrast, may be a double edged sward as the poster noted getting headaches easier watching plasma.

As for the above change of antenna lead (who uses an antenna lead these days?) yes it can make a difference but normally just change of the connector or adjustment of it does the trick. As for "mains" also at a loss to explain that but suspect he is talking A/V, HDMI cables and such. In which case I do not agree that people have to spend 1,000's of baht for name brand magic cables.

What do you mean 720 is the best resolution ?

All my plasma's are 1080p , and Panasonic has a 8K (7,680 x 4320 pixels) resolution.

HDMI cables are digital, they either work or they don't.

You buy the cheapest one you can that works, spending any more would be pointless.

Not completely true. HDMI cables are basically network cables. There is a difference between cat5 and cat6, however both are network cables. Same applies for HDMI cables.

I have had cheap HDMI cables which worked perfectly, at the beginning, but had to replace them all over time.

No, they aren't.

http://www.cnet.com/news/why-all-hdmi-cables-are-the-same/

[Woodsie888]

I have a 42" and a 51" plasma. Used the 42" for 6-7 years and still excellent image. Power consumption of newer plasma has improved over time. Prefer plasma over LCD (LED) as the contrasts are superb and color saturation. I only watch the bigger one at night so reflection glare is no issue for me. My wife uses the 42" day and night but no problem in either environment. Yep, calling the member out on the 2000 baht saving. My entire monthly bill with 2 plasmas, air, 2 refrigs, lots of other appliances is around 1.8k - 2.6k/month.

Burn in has been nearly eliminated with current technology so not a major issue anymore. The weakness as others have mentioned is the heat it generates.

Just paid my bill yesterday: 9,485 baht.

I don't know how you guy's do it.

Good luck to you and I guess, silly me, I must be wasteful.

[Pib]

Don't get to hung-up on is it LCD, LED or Plasma....go for the one that has the best picture, desired features, and warranty within your price range.

[JesseFrank]

HDMI cables are digital, they either work or they don't.

You buy the cheapest one you can that works, spending any more would be pointless.

Not completely true. HDMI cables are basically network cables. There is a difference between cat5 and cat6, however both are network cables. Same applies for HDMI cables.

I have had cheap HDMI cables which worked perfectly, at the beginning, but had to replace them all over time.

No, they aren't.

http://www.cnet.com/news/why-all-hdmi-cables-are-the-same/

Ok then explain the following to me. One of those cheap hdmi cables was used for my LED monitor. Worked perfectly, however if the deep fryer switched on or off I would lose signal for a fraction of a second. Same if I plugged something in the wall socket in the room.

I changed the cable to a more expensive one and, voila problem solved .

[BritManToo]

HDMI cables are digital, they either work or they don't.

You buy the cheapest one you can that works, spending any more would be pointless.

Not completely true. HDMI cables are basically network cables. There is a difference between cat5 and cat6, however both are network cables. Same applies for HDMI cables.

I have had cheap HDMI cables which worked perfectly, at the beginning, but had to replace them all over time.

No, they aren't.

http://www.cnet.com/news/why-all-hdmi-cables-are-the-same/

Ok then explain the following to me. One of those cheap hdmi cables was used for my LED monitor. Worked perfectly, however if the deep fryer switched on or off I would lose signal for a fraction of a second. Same if I plugged something in the wall socket in the room.

I changed the cable to a more expensive one and, voila problem solved .

Poor earthing on your house supply.

Poor house wiring, too few ring mains, fat fryer and TV on shared ring main with a ring that can't cope with the power requirements.

Faulty HDMI cable with iffy earth.

I have a UPS, the mains can go off, and everything still works.

My power is smooooth and constant.

Edited March 26, 2014 by BritManToo

[JesseFrank]

Ok then explain the following to me. One of those cheap hdmi cables was used for my LED monitor. Worked perfectly, however if the deep fryer switched on or off I would lose signal for a fraction of a second. Same if I plugged something in the wall socket in the room.

I changed the cable to a more expensive one and, voila problem solved .

Poor earthing on your house supply.

Poor house wiring, too few ring mains, fat fryer and TV on shared ring main with a ring that can't cope with the power requirements.

Faulty HDMI cable with iffy earth.

So the new HDMI cable fixed the poor earthing and poor wiring of my house supply ?

Yeah right, and Chritmas eve Santa Claus flies in the sky.

By the way, I didn't say that my monitor, or pc powered off, the signal over the HDMI cable was disrupted for a fraction of a second. Easy to check when you display the tv menu, which doesn't disappear in the same situation.

Edited March 26, 2014 by JesseFrank

[maxtwo]

I'am in uk and had a lot of LCD led and plasma screens all have been on sky hd.The best I have had is samsung edge lit led the worst Panasonic plasma.I'am looking at getting lg led.And when I make my move to Thailand I will buy led.

Sent from my iPad using Thaivisa Connect Thailand

[khunron13]

I bought an LED smart TV to replace my old Plasma and my electric bill went down about 2000 Baht a month. My wife watches a lot of TV so you probably won't get the same savings. My 55 inch LED uses 124 watts and my 50 inch Plasma uses 450 watts. Go with the LED

LMFAO!

[SkyRider]

I bought an LED smart TV to replace my old Plasma and my electric bill went down about 2000 Baht a month. My wife watches a lot of TV so you probably won't get the same savings. My 55 inch LED uses 124 watts and my 50 inch Plasma uses 450 watts. Go with the LED

If your tv would be on 24/7 it would make a a difference of 234 Kwh a month which would mean a saving of about 900 Baht .

I do want to save money so I think I'll get an LG LED.

40 inch would use less electricty but I really want the larger 50 inch screen. I won't have it on 24/7, but just to get an idea, if I had it on 24/7, that would cost me about 900 baht per month in electricity? I live in an apartment, paying 7 baht per unit.

[JesseFrank]

I bought an LED smart TV to replace my old Plasma and my electric bill went down about 2000 Baht a month. My wife watches a lot of TV so you probably won't get the same savings. My 55 inch LED uses 124 watts and my 50 inch Plasma uses 450 watts. Go with the LED

If your tv would be on 24/7 it would make a a difference of 234 Kwh a month which would mean a saving of about 900 Baht .

I do want to save money so I think I'll get an LG LED.

40 inch would use less electricty but I really want the larger 50 inch screen. I won't have it on 24/7, but just to get an idea, if I had it on 24/7, that would cost me about 900 baht per month in electricity? I live in an apartment, paying 7 baht per unit.

If you allow yourself to be overcharged for your electricity, then you have to live with it, but even at that rate a an LED would use far less than 900 Baht a month if on 24/7.

It would use about 90KwH a month.

[Pib]

Also keep in mind the wattage/amperes rating on the back of the TV/in its manual are most likely not the "average use" wattage the TV but the maximum rating.

I have one of those energy meters that gives real time measurement in watts, voltage, amps, hertz, etc.,..and it will even tell me the cost of electricity use if I plug in the cost per KWH. I used the energy meter on my 42" LCD Philips TV a few minutes ago. Although the TV wattage rating is 200W, with the volume set to mid scale the watts usage varied slowly from approx 140W to 180W but spent most of its time hanging right around 160W. What was being displayed on the screen seemed to affect the wattage in use as the screen brightness would change....cranking the volume all the way up made practically no difference in wattage use. I also have a 52" LCD Philips TV rated at 300W....I remember when I checked its wattage use about six months ago it was far less than 300W....in fact I think it was down around the same 140W to 180W as my 42" TV but I can't really remember. Summary: the wattage rating on the TV is probably not the "average use" rating" but some maximum case rating.

Edited March 27, 2014 by Pib

[sniffdog]

Choosing LED or Plasma purely based on electricity matter, would be not a wise thing. Search for all positives and negatives.

[SkyRider]

Also keep in mind the wattage/amperes rating on the back of the TV/in its manual are most likely not the "average use" wattage the TV but the maximum rating.

I have one of those energy meters that gives real time measurement in watts, voltage, amps, hertz, etc.,..and it will even tell me the cost of electricity use if I plug in the cost per KWH. I used the energy meter on my 42" LCD Philips TV a few minutes ago. Although the TV wattage rating is 200W, with the volume set to mid scale the watts usage varied slowly from approx 140W to 180W but spent most of its time hanging right around 160W. What was being displayed on the screen seemed to affect the wattage in use as the screen brightness would change....cranking the volume all the way up made practically no difference in wattage use. I also have a 52" LCD Philips TV rated at 300W....I remember when I checked its wattage use about six months ago it was far less than 300W....in fact I think it was down around the same 140W to 180W as my 42" TV but I can't really remember. Summary: the wattage rating on the TV is probably not the "average use" rating" but some maximum case rating.

That is very interesting and fine tuned analyzation Pib.

And JesseFrank, the reason I allow myself to be overcharged with electricity, is because I think I have a fairly good deal on the rent price, so I think it balances out. But 7 baht per unit really adds up, so I think it's prudent to go with LED over Plasma. I also read that LED TVs have a longer life span then Plasmas.

Edited March 27, 2014 by SkyRider

[Pib]

At 7 baht/KWH that is a healthy price for electricity...expect you are paying the landlord this amount and he's pocketing the difference he pays the electric company. I live in a single family home which I own (well, my Thai wife owns), the electric account is in our name/comes directly to us from the electric company, and our charge per KWH (which includes all taxes/fees/Ft/etc.) is 4.71 baht/KWH.

[JesseFrank]

Also keep in mind the wattage/amperes rating on the back of the TV/in its manual are most likely not the "average use" wattage the TV but the maximum rating.

I have one of those energy meters that gives real time measurement in watts, voltage, amps, hertz, etc.,..and it will even tell me the cost of electricity use if I plug in the cost per KWH. I used the energy meter on my 42" LCD Philips TV a few minutes ago. Although the TV wattage rating is 200W, with the volume set to mid scale the watts usage varied slowly from approx 140W to 180W but spent most of its time hanging right around 160W. What was being displayed on the screen seemed to affect the wattage in use as the screen brightness would change....cranking the volume all the way up made practically no difference in wattage use. I also have a 52" LCD Philips TV rated at 300W....I remember when I checked its wattage use about six months ago it was far less than 300W....in fact I think it was down around the same 140W to 180W as my 42" TV but I can't really remember. Summary: the wattage rating on the TV is probably not the "average use" rating" but some maximum case rating.

PIB, this is a bit off topic as i wanted to start a topic on it, but is that energy meter able to measure the total usage of an appliance over a certain period of time, or only measure real time.?

Where did you buy it and what was the cost.

[Tywais]

Also keep in mind the wattage/amperes rating on the back of the TV/in its manual are most likely not the "average use" wattage the TV but the maximum rating.

I have one of those energy meters that gives real time measurement in watts, voltage, amps, hertz, etc.,..and it will even tell me the cost of electricity use if I plug in the cost per KWH. I used the energy meter on my 42" LCD Philips TV a few minutes ago. Although the TV wattage rating is 200W, with the volume set to mid scale the watts usage varied slowly from approx 140W to 180W but spent most of its time hanging right around 160W. What was being displayed on the screen seemed to affect the wattage in use as the screen brightness would change....cranking the volume all the way up made practically no difference in wattage use. I also have a 52" LCD Philips TV rated at 300W....I remember when I checked its wattage use about six months ago it was far less than 300W....in fact I think it was down around the same 140W to 180W as my 42" TV but I can't really remember. Summary: the wattage rating on the TV is probably not the "average use" rating" but some maximum case rating.

That is very interesting and fine tuned analyzation Pib.

And JesseFrank, the reason I allow myself to be overcharged with electricity, is because I think I have a fairly good deal on the rent price, so I think it balances out. But 7 baht per unit really adds up, so I think it's prudent to go with LED over Plasma. I also read that LED TVs have a longer life span then Plasmas.

The difference is extremely small so wouldn't let that be a deciding factor but what you look in viewing quality, thermal issue, and features.

The next chart shows the yearly cost if the television is watched 5 hours per day for 365 days, at a cost of electricity of 0.11$ per kWh.

As you can see in the chart, a plasma television does cost more electricity than an LED TV. However, the resulting cost at the end of the year is not very big, about 10$ more for a 50" plasma. On a 5 years period, the total amount saved would be 50$.

As mentioned previously here, a plasma TV cost on average 350$ less than an LED TV for the same size. Based on this, it will take 35 years for the total cost of ownership (initial cost + electricity cost) of a plasma television to surpass its LED counterpart.

Source

[Tywais]

As per life time, wouldn't worry about it. My 42" is at least 6-7 years old with heavy usage as it is my wife's now and no problems with it in any respect.

In fact, many plasma manufacturers boast a life span of 100,000 hours to half life! This is a longer life than a tube based television. The specification is somewhat suspect since the process of determining longevity of the product is based on deductive mathematical calculation of phosphor dissipation, and does not take into account the electronic components and the myriad of problems that can occur. Panasonic was the first to claim the 60,000 hour life span, up from a previous 30,000 just a year prior and now Samsung, LG and Panasonic claim 100,000 hours to half life.

So how long will a plasma last? The long and short of it is that it depends upon your daily hourly usage as well as how you use the monitor. 4 to 55 years is my new short answer.

One practical example I will cite here is the Panasonic Tau units being used by video rental company, In Motion Pictures at major airports around the country. Most of the earlier Tau models have now been replaced by a newer model, but these plasma displays were used for 5 years and were the first generation of plasma displays to go a considerable distance. In Motion displays images on them from 6AM until 10PM daily (16 hours). By my estimates, these early plasma displays by Panasonic were in use by In Motion for around 30,000 hours or more. They never fail to catch my eye as I pass by in one airport or another to see if they are still in use. If they have lost some of their brightness level its hard to tell. This use equates to 18 years for a home owner that watches 3 hours television per day. So a 100,000 hour lifespan for a plasma TV will mean triple that to 54 years at 3 hours per day.

Plasmatvbuyingguide

[Pib]

Also keep in mind the wattage/amperes rating on the back of the TV/in its manual are most likely not the "average use" wattage the TV but the maximum rating.

I have one of those energy meters that gives real time measurement in watts, voltage, amps, hertz, etc.,..and it will even tell me the cost of electricity use if I plug in the cost per KWH. I used the energy meter on my 42" LCD Philips TV a few minutes ago. Although the TV wattage rating is 200W, with the volume set to mid scale the watts usage varied slowly from approx 140W to 180W but spent most of its time hanging right around 160W. What was being displayed on the screen seemed to affect the wattage in use as the screen brightness would change....cranking the volume all the way up made practically no difference in wattage use. I also have a 52" LCD Philips TV rated at 300W....I remember when I checked its wattage use about six months ago it was far less than 300W....in fact I think it was down around the same 140W to 180W as my 42" TV but I can't really remember. Summary: the wattage rating on the TV is probably not the "average use" rating" but some maximum case rating.

PIB, this is a bit off topic as i wanted to start a topic on it, but is that energy meter able to measure the total usage of an appliance over a certain period of time, or only measure real time.?

Where did you buy it and what was the cost.

Yes, it can...both real time and over time. In fact, what I did a couple of times was plug in the 4.71KWH amount into the energy meter settings and used it over several days to get a more accurate reading of how much an electronic/electrical item(s) cost me to run over several days, per month, etc. Like I have several cabinets which I have a TV, stereo, TrueVisions cable set-top box, C-band set-top box, cable modem, cordless phone, etc., plugged into a power strip and what I did was to insert the energy meter between the electrical wall outlet and the power strip cord. I did this not so much to see how much the items draw/cost me when turned on but to find out how much they draw/cost me in "standby" mode which many of the items we use now days operate in for most of the day/night. Also used it to check out the wattage/cost of my refrigerators....I have split-air cons up on the wall so I can't use the energy meter on them but I also have a clamp-on ammeter and whole house ammeter on my main circuit box to measure the big wattage/amps draws like my A/Cs, clothes dryer, water heaters, etc.

I bought the energy meter at HomePro but have also seen them in Lotus and Among Stores here in western Bangkok. It's an Electan ET-MP01U like shown at this website and cost me around Bt800. It comes in very handy and seems to be very well built and accurate....it has a max wattage continuous draw capability of 3680 watts or 16.7amps.

[teatree]

The factor that made me go for LED was the heat output of the plasma screens I looked at (6months ago).

Plasma screens get pretty hot so I would advise anyone to consider that before buying a tv. Having something in your living room that belts out lots of heat is a good thing in the UK or Canada but to be avoided in the tropics.

My LED runs very cool indeed.