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Chain Lube


Beardog

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I finally got some real chain lube after using Sonax & some other useless penetrating oil like WD40. The past 2 months (since I ran out of the Chain wax oil I have been using) And the Sonax while it did a little help the chain created a hell of a racket & caused the chain to heat up quite a bit. I went to Kawasaki & bought Belray for 650 baht (way to much) It sells for about 280 baht in the U.S. works great but I did find the chain wax oil I like in Bangkok for 1450 baht for a case of 24 88 ml. spray cans. They didn't carry the 400 ml. cans anymore but he gave me a small discount & it was about the same as buying it in the U.S. per 400 ml. I am stoked since last year TSA swiped 2 cans of Chain wax lube. I find the Sonax is useful for cleaning the chain before I reapply the new oil when needed. But I really notice the difference between proper chain lube over a penetrating oil base. Stoked to hear only a whir from the chain now instead of the dry sounding chain before & I had to use the Sonax every week instead of 1 time a month. I was starting to get very concerned that my Kawi was sounding very dry & relieved that it was just the chain lube!

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As I said to you yesterday....outboard grease is the answer.

Buy mine up at Seat Marine.

I know it probably sounds weird.

But look at the environment outboard grease works in, much the same as a chain and sprockets during the wet season!

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Back in the day before o-ring chains made an appearance, we used to clean chain, roll into a large coffee can, cover with 90 weight gear oil, and heat.

Oil penetrated into the rollers and side plates while thin, then just hang on a piece of wire to drain, wipe and reinstall.

Who said they were the good old days !!

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sonax is the worst man, it heats up like you said and contributes to chain stretch.

up here in cnx shops are finally starting to carry chain wax.

Yes Sonax is about the worst you can get. The Belray works well & does what it says it will but it left some nice goobers in our carport. The little woman told me to come out the bike was leaking & it was all the excess from the Belray that slung all over the kickstand & onto various other parts. The wax lube I found does the same job without any or next to none oil slingage.

Did you get your valve shim worked out or still working on getting the new work they did right?

Edited by Beardog
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As I said to you yesterday....outboard grease is the answer.

Buy mine up at Seat Marine.

I know it probably sounds weird.

But look at the environment outboard grease works in, much the same as a chain and sprockets during the wet season!

BSJ I used the outboard oil & it works very well but not as easy as a quick squirt on the ol' chain. My sanding on the rear rotor was not aggressive enough either at Maxxis. I will have Kawi next week see if they can get the glaze off when they do my 12,000 kilo servicing. They have an angle grinder to rough up the disc. I hate to replace it. Other than the glaze it is not hacked up or warped & looks new except for the glaze on the rotor. Nice running into you at Maxxis. The tires are awesome. I hope they got yours worked out.

Barry

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BSJ I used the outboard oil & it works very well but not as easy as a quick squirt on the ol' chain. My sanding on the rear rotor was not aggressive enough either at Maxxis. I will have Kawi next week see if they can get the glaze off when they do my 12,000 kilo servicing. They have an angle grinder to rough up the disc. I hate to replace it. Other than the glaze it is not hacked up or warped & looks new except for the glaze on the rotor. Nice running into you at Maxxis. The tires are awesome. I hope they got yours worked out.

Barry

Hmm that should be easy work for any machine shop. Going at it with the angle grinder just doesn't seem fair.

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When chain wax is unavailable the next best thing is Bosny's Grease Spray from HomePro. Sonax or WD40 for cleaning the chain and then a good coating of the white lithium grease does the job.

I clean and apply the it every 500 kms and my chain and sprockets look in fairly decent shape after 25000 kms. The most important things to me is no chain stretch and very little dirt on the chain compared to the oil most places put on the chains.

I take my CBR out for a little ride after the clean to heat the chain up and then apply the grease. It seems to work well.

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sonax is the worst man, it heats up like you said and contributes to chain stretch.

up here in cnx shops are finally starting to carry chain wax.

Yes Sonax is about the worst you can get. The Belray works well & does what it says it will but it left some nice goobers in our carport. The little woman told me to come out the bike was leaking & it was all the excess from the Belray that slung all over the kickstand & onto various other parts. The wax lube I found does the same job without any or next to none oil slingage.

Did you get your valve shim worked out or still working on getting the new work they did right?

i bought a new bike ;) old bike is still sitting there, its like shes been handled by another man, got hoed out and dirty...cant bring myself to touch her again just yet.

new bike: redoing modifications with gas tank propped up, friend walks by and knocks the tank off while texting his girl on LINE (dumbass), tank falls and is saved by high pressure fuel line, connector at fuel pump snaps off, have to buy order entire new fuel pump 3000 baht. I think he's bad luck.

apart from wax and dedicated chain lube, the best alternative ive found is Kemex teflon spray. i tried the bosny stuff, but it left crud.

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Back in the day before o-ring chains made an appearance, we used to clean chain, roll into a large coffee can, cover with 90 weight gear oil, and heat.

Oil penetrated into the rollers and side plates while thin, then just hang on a piece of wire to drain, wipe and reinstall.

Who said they were the good old days !!

Used to do the same with paraffin.

Definitely doesn't fling off.

Recently I'm using a spray on-product called Veloil.

Seems to penetrate well then dries leaving a tenacious coat, supposedly not attractive to dirt.

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Back in the day before o-ring chains made an appearance, we used to clean chain, roll into a large coffee can, cover with 90 weight gear oil, and heat.

Oil penetrated into the rollers and side plates while thin, then just hang on a piece of wire to drain, wipe and reinstall.

Who said they were the good old days !!

Used to do the same with paraffin.

Definitely doesn't fling off.

Recently I'm using a spray on-product called Veloil.

Seems to penetrate well then dries leaving a tenacious coat, supposedly not attractive to dirt.

Is Chain Saw oil available in Thailand? It's designed for hard work and to not fly off the chain.

wonder how this would go on a motor bike chain...

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Back in the day before o-ring chains made an appearance, we used to clean chain, roll into a large coffee can, cover with 90 weight gear oil, and heat.

Oil penetrated into the rollers and side plates while thin, then just hang on a piece of wire to drain, wipe and reinstall.

Who said they were the good old days !!

Used to do the same with paraffin.

Definitely doesn't fling off.

Recently I'm using a spray on-product called Veloil.

Seems to penetrate well then dries leaving a tenacious coat, supposedly not attractive to dirt.

Is Chain Saw oil available in Thailand? It's designed for hard work and to not fly off the chain.

wonder how this would go on a motor bike chain...

Not sure what 'Chain Saw oil' reference is.

2-stroke oil is added to fuel.

Regular motor oil is put in the chain oiler and it definitely flings off. It must be refilled at each fueling.

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Back in the day before o-ring chains made an appearance, we used to clean chain, roll into a large coffee can, cover with 90 weight gear oil, and heat.

Oil penetrated into the rollers and side plates while thin, then just hang on a piece of wire to drain, wipe and reinstall.

Who said they were the good old days !!

Used to do the same with paraffin.

Definitely doesn't fling off.

Recently I'm using a spray on-product called Veloil.

Seems to penetrate well then dries leaving a tenacious coat, supposedly not attractive to dirt.

Is Chain Saw oil available in Thailand? It's designed for hard work and to not fly off the chain.

wonder how this would go on a motor bike chain...

Chain saw bar oil would not work well as the oil flies everywhere. I used to work as a tree surgeon in Tahoe & Oregon. It is suppose to stick but right after you lube the chain it blows a spittle as long as the rev of the engine.

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sonax is the worst man, it heats up like you said and contributes to chain stretch.

up here in cnx shops are finally starting to carry chain wax.

Yes Sonax is about the worst you can get. The Belray works well & does what it says it will but it left some nice goobers in our carport. The little woman told me to come out the bike was leaking & it was all the excess from the Belray that slung all over the kickstand & onto various other parts. The wax lube I found does the same job without any or next to none oil slingage.

Did you get your valve shim worked out or still working on getting the new work they did right?

i bought a new bike wink.png old bike is still sitting there, its like shes been handled by another man, got hoed out and dirty...cant bring myself to touch her again just yet.

new bike: redoing modifications with gas tank propped up, friend walks by and knocks the tank off while texting his girl on LINE (dumbass), tank falls and is saved by high pressure fuel line, connector at fuel pump snaps off, have to buy order entire new fuel pump 3000 baht. I think he's bad luck.

apart from wax and dedicated chain lube, the best alternative ive found is Kemex teflon spray. i tried the bosny stuff, but it left crud.

Boy that really sucks insult upon injury! At least you got a new ride to console the lamenting of the old one. I hate the thought of having anyone do major work here in LOS. Their idea of training is way less than in the west where if you don't pass all the practical portions you never make it to a technician.

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hate cleaning and oiling the chain:(

it is always a dirty job and mostly some oil on the edge of my rear tire which is dangerous, dirty rims and oil on other parts as well.

That is why, i go to Bigwing or a bog bike shop close to my house every 1000 km and let them do the dirty work.

Edited by ll2
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sonax is the worst man, it heats up like you said and contributes to chain stretch.

up here in cnx shops are finally starting to carry chain wax.

Yes Sonax is about the worst you can get. The Belray works well & does what it says it will but it left some nice goobers in our carport. The little woman told me to come out the bike was leaking & it was all the excess from the Belray that slung all over the kickstand & onto various other parts. The wax lube I found does the same job without any or next to none oil slingage.

Did you get your valve shim worked out or still working on getting the new work they did right?

i bought a new bike wink.png old bike is still sitting there, its like shes been handled by another man, got hoed out and dirty...cant bring myself to touch her again just yet.

new bike: redoing modifications with gas tank propped up, friend walks by and knocks the tank off while texting his girl on LINE (dumbass), tank falls and is saved by high pressure fuel line, connector at fuel pump snaps off, have to buy order entire new fuel pump 3000 baht. I think he's bad luck.

apart from wax and dedicated chain lube, the best alternative ive found is Kemex teflon spray. i tried the bosny stuff, but it left crud.

Boy that really sucks insult upon injury! At least you got a new ride to console the lamenting of the old one. I hate the thought of having anyone do major work here in LOS. Their idea of training is way less than in the west where if you don't pass all the practical portions you never make it to a technician.

salt in the wound man....

ive only taken my bikes to the dealer for repair twice in my life, got screwed both times. Sometimes its good to not know too much.

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Beardog , so what chain wax oil do you prefer , and is it OK for off-road? Thanks.

Nigel, I have used 3 companies chain wax oil & they all seem identical to me. Up here it is so hard to find that whoever makes it that is the company. The wax lube is designed for any chained vehicle that has dirt or a sandy environment(which is just about any situation) My friends use this chain lube in San Fransisco because of the sand drifts & it really does keep the sand & dirt off the chain & the chains last longer compared to other goopier lubes that attract dirt & crush it into the chain.If it is really better is just preference. I just like it since it seems to do the same job as the more conventional lubes & is way easier to clean the ultra minor slingage. A dirt bike would be loving Chain wax oil!

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I think the wax works well for street or dirt. It is the same chemicals used in conventional chain oil with a wax infusion. It just keeps crap off the chain. For any of the reviews there are pro's & cons but I like not having a mess with all the benefits of a great chain lube.

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Masuk means chainsaw bar oil. Very sticky and made to lube bar and chain.

Engine oil will not stick, this stuff is the consistency of molasses.

I'm learning something new today.

I have been heating the Colorado mountain places since 1971 with firewood, mostly sawn by me,

and never realized that a dedicated chain/bar oil existed.

The stuff is pricey...$6-10 per quart...ouch!

I sometimes recycle motor oil from my car for use in the chain/bar oiler.

Yes, some say 'no good'... used motor oil no good for chain.

But I figure that if it was okay for the tight tolerances in my car the day before it was drained,

then it is surely good enough for the loose tolerances on the chain.

I get long use out of my chains (and motor) as I hand file sharpen at each fueling &

avoid cutting dirty logs.

The chain wearing out from poor lubrication is definitely not an issue.

I have never had to replace a bar.

Sorry...seemed to have drifter off topic.
Edited by papa al
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Masuk means chainsaw bar oil. Very sticky and made to lube bar and chain.

Engine oil will not stick, this stuff is the consistency of molasses.

I'm learning something new today.

I have been heating the Colorado mountain places since 1971 with firewood, mostly sawn by me,

and never realized that a dedicated chain/bar oil existed.

The stuff is pricey...$6-10 per quart...ouch!

I sometimes recycle motor oil from my car for use in the chain/bar oiler.

Yes, some say 'no good'... used motor oil no good for chain.

But I figure that if it was okay for the tight tolerances in my car the day before it was drained,

then it is surely good enough for the loose tolerances on the chain.

I get long use out of my chains (and motor) as I hand file sharpen at each fueling &

avoid cutting dirty logs.

The chain wearing out from poor lubrication is definitely not an issue.

I have never had to replace a bar.

Sorry...seemed to have drifter off topic.

This is a learning site! plus a tad of bitching and whinging . smile.png

I used a chain saw on Aussie hardwood trees and they're really tough on chain saws. Often wished there was some pine around to practice on, as my slow combustion cooker/heater/hot water supply used around 8 tonnes a winter.. However, the McCulloch agents insisted I use chain and bar oil, or I'd be replacing the working end regularly.

Can't see why it wouldn't work on a motorbike chain, which I'm sure doesn't go around as fast as a chain saw.

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Beardog im using Motul at the moment-have been for 10 years. What makes do you prefer ?. Coming to Thailand in a few days-will be in Chiang Mai for April 14(Songkran)for 3 or 4 weeks.Will be hiring a "dirt bike" for the duration. Dont know if im allowed to bring in spray cans ,so will just use gear oil on hire bike chain. Moving to CM full time next year,trying to figure out what i can and can get - and at what prices!.If anyone fancies some off-roading from April 14 to 2nd week of May (not mental stuff)get in touch .

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^

Look at the Maxima 3-step kit (cleaner, penetrant, and wax) on Amazon if you have time to order it before returning to LOS- it's less than $30 and works great- I get a new set brought in every year (haven't had any problems with it on planes, but there's always a first time...)

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Chears guys im very grateful for the good advice i receive here. KRS1 , hope the "dirty" bike has its head/valves fixed up soon , keep us up-to-date. Can i ask where these 3 shops are - i have a good knowledge of CM by now -thanks.

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