Where does the black wire go?

[topt]

Can someone please confirm which terminal the black wire should be soldered to - I am guessing it is to the middle red wire on the switch block but that is only based on observation of the connection itself as otherwise I have no idea. Thanks.

[Crossy]

I would say the middle switch terminal too.

Do you have a multimeter to check the continuity before plugging it back in?

[topt]

I would say the middle switch terminal too.

Do you have a multimeter to check the continuity before plugging it back in?

Unfortunately not.

What will happen if it is wrong - circuit trip?

[Crossy]

Certainly something will trip, either the breaker in the strip, or (assuming you have one) the breaker in your distribution board.

Personally, I wouldn't risk it, go to Tesco and buy one of their cheap and cheerful digital meters.

It either goes on the centre or bottom terminal of the switch, which depends upon the type of switch.

If you can see the dry joint where it looks like it came from there's a good bet.

[IMHO]

Certainly something will trip, either the breaker in the strip, or (assuming you have one) the breaker in your distribution board.

Personally, I wouldn't risk it, go to Tesco and buy one of their cheap and cheerful digital meters.

It either goes on the centre or bottom terminal of the switch, which depends upon the type of switch.

If you can see the dry joint where it looks like it came from there's a good bet.

Or alternatively just buy a new powerboard...

Preferably one that *doesn't* have soldered joints.. what a POS.

[topt]

Certainly something will trip, either the breaker in the strip, or (assuming you have one) the breaker in your distribution board.

Personally, I wouldn't risk it, go to Tesco and buy one of their cheap and cheerful digital meters.

It either goes on the centre or bottom terminal of the switch, which depends upon the type of switch.

If you can see the dry joint where it looks like it came from there's a good bet.

Or alternatively just buy a new powerboard...

Preferably one that *doesn't* have soldered joints.. what a POS.

I never thought of that

Actually I have another where it is obvious where the join is so I was doing that one and thought I would do the two together. Also don't they all have soldered joints.................

[bankruatsteve]

What's this switch for? Hopefully, it's not carrying much current as solder should only be used, if absolutely necessary, to secure mechanical connections in HV equipment. Also, solder connections should be smooth ball shaped with no peaks or sharp edges.

[ThaidDown]

I would say the middle switch terminal too.

Do you have a multimeter to check the continuity before plugging it back in?

Probably wrong to disagree with Crossy but I think it would be the lower blade on the switch.

Reason.... The live (white in this case, wrong colour, I know) goes to the resettable trip then to the top blade of the switch.. These switches when on , in my experience, connect to the centre blade . This feeds the extension outlets, the correct live pin.(I think). The black incoming wire (neutral in this case) would go to bottom blade and then on to the 'neutral' of the outlets.. It also completes the circuit inside the switch for the neon.

But...agree should check out continuity before connecting. and yes the soldering is cxxx not good

[topt]

What's this switch for? Hopefully, it's not carrying much current as solder should only be used, if absolutely necessary, to secure mechanical connections in HV equipment. Also, solder connections should be smooth ball shaped with no peaks or sharp edges.

It is just a Thai extension lead block which has been gathering dust for the last few years - main interest was that it has three wires. I may just wire a new block on the end.

[thomasteve]

The incoming red wire of the mains cord is the earth

The black incoming wire possibly connects to the centre terminal of the on/off neon indicator switch but you need to be 100% sure it wasn't to the bottom terminal.

If you can't visually see where the old solder joint was (or compare it to an identical unit) then you need to use a test meter or a simple battery and bulb circuit to make sure which terminal (centre or bottom) connects to the top one when 'on'.

Another way would be to use a neon screwdriver to identify the live terminals or just discard the switch entirely.

What you definitely should not do is to take a guess as you could cause a direct L-N short and be relying only on a circuit breaker to trip in time to stop a very large fault current flowing which can easily cause a fire and reduce everything to a molten mess or worse....