The Sport of Kings LIVES in Chiang Mai!

[Frank James]

After living here for five years, today I discovered another hidden gem of Chiang Mai culture: We have a horse racing track here! Several mornings I have ventured up this small sideroad off the CM-Mae Rim Road, past the Lanna Shooting Club, and have seen guys out walking horses up and down the road. I assumed they were police or military horses. Not so. Today I saw a sign advertising horse racing, and followed the crowds to the track. I had no idea this was here! It is a full size racing oval complete with a large, covered grandstand, stables, paddock, and a VIP clubhouse. A program costs 30 baht, and general admission is a paltry 20 baht. Admission to the VIP club is only 100 baht. Aircon!

A large, enthusiastic crowd was on hand. It's a nicer facility than the racecourse I visited once in Bangkok. Under the grandstand there is plenty of food and drink, and several ways to bet. I didn't place any wagers this time. It looks like a straightforward process at the betting windows, but there are also these boards full of numbers, and punters are placing betting slips on the board. (See photo.) I'm not familiar with this type of play, so I will steer clear.

Before the race, three girls hopped up on the small stage in front of the grandstand and started dancing like they were auditioning for work at the Spotlight a Go Go. Don't know if this is a regular feature, but it was warmly received by the fans.

The track surface seems to be composed of coarse sand, and I was surprised to see it un-groomed. I don't think any speed records will ever be broken on that surface. It seems to do the job well enough. Wonder how it does in the rain. Fortunately, it was a lovely, sunny day, not too hot, with a nice occasional breeze.

I saw a disturbing sight in the first race. One of the horses pulled up lame in the stretch. The jockey pulled him over to the inside rail, where the sand was very deep and loose. The race was long over at this point. Instead of getting off the horse, and walking it in, or calling for assistance, he continued to stay on and tried to ride the horse off the track. The horse was very resistant to this treatment. Then the jockey jumped off and walked away, leaving the horse loose on the track. He was limping around, hurt and confused. Finally a groom came out and walked the horse back to the stables. I hope the trainer had a few choice words for that jock. Bad form.

I am a big fan of the “Sport of Kings”, and am delighted to know there's racing at this track every Saturday. Of course, not knowing it was here all this time probably saved me a lot of money. Next Saturday I'll be there with my binoculars, ready to play. I only saw one other farang in this big crowd. I've never seen any notice for this place in any publication. It should be promoted better. Night Safari, Tiger Kingdom, Flight of the Gibbon, these are all fine, but for an old horse player like me, this is the real deal.

Details: http://www.chiangmai-horseracing.com

[Diplomatico]

Thank you, Frank James for this info! I was at the Royal Bangkok Sports Club last month for a day of racing...now I can be a railbird here too.

[evenstevens]

frank been going to this track for 13 yrs,your truly great description is a pearler

this year with the 107,/121 iintersection cock up ,i have not been

just a few tips to find a winner,the programme will select 5 horses as there picks, when these horses parade any sweat under the flanks put a red pen through it

these horses have to be up on there toes and flighty.and there ears pricked,if not get the red pen out,

you want to see there ribs ,and any dimpling around there flanks,they are very nervous get the red pen out again

when they finnally get to the barriers any of the selected horses who are immediately placed in the barrier stalls,pull out the red pen

you want your horse to be placed in the stalls last if poss,or near enuff

if your pick does not get a good clean start ,rip up your ticket

coming to the turn if your pick is back, further then 2 lengths from the leader,rip up your ticket

most winners finished on the outside, as the jockeys just luv saluting to the generals in the judges box

really if u got a good eye u can back a winner or two, good luck frank for next week

[Ulysses G.]

I have no interest in horses or in racing, but this sounds like an important cultural experience that should not be missed.

Before the race, three girls hopped up on the small stage in front of the grandstand and started dancing like they were auditioning for work at the Spotlight a Go Go

[hml367]

Under patronage of the THAI MILITARY CHIANG MAI HORSE RACE COURSE

I remember looking at this track through a gate behind the badminton gyms at Lanna Golf.

[Greenside]

I suspect there might be a shortage of kings willing to be associated with the way some of the animals are treated at these events. I went on several occasions but got pretty depressed at some of the things I saw, particularly the lack of care for injured horses, one of which was left to stand around on three legs in the afternoon sun for a couple of hours after losing one at the ankle in a major accident on the home straight. Anywhere else (that I've ever heard of), it would have been put down immediately on the track.

I'm sure the Army treat their horses with care and respect, but they may not be able to exercise the same level of control over the way the visiting trainers handle their own stock.

So, sorry to throw a rather wet blanket on your obvious delight at discovering the place - it can certainly be fun, but the darker side is a bit close for comfort as far as I'm concerned.

More pictures here.....

[MESmith]

Aren't all the races fixed?

[gamini]

I think the "sport of kings" more aptly applies to polo.

this is a very old inscription

"Some may play at other things, but the king of games is the game of kings"

[Chicog]

That's a magnificent find, and thank you for posting it.

[Saan]

I suspect there might be a shortage of kings willing to be associated with the way some of the animals are treated at these events. I went on several occasions but got pretty depressed at some of the things I saw, particularly the lack of care for injured horses, one of which was left to stand around on three legs in the afternoon sun for a couple of hours after losing one at the ankle in a major accident on the home straight. Anywhere else (that I've ever heard of), it would have been put down immediately on the track.

I'm sure the Army treat their horses with care and respect, but they may not be able to exercise the same level of control over the way the visiting trainers handle their own stock.

So, sorry to throw a rather wet blanket on your obvious delight at discovering the place - it can certainly be fun, but the darker side is a bit close for comfort as far as I'm concerned.

More pictures here.....

Thanks for showing your stunningly good racing photos.

I have owned horses in Australia and immensely enjoyed a day at the races and I have been meaning to venture out to see a Chiang Mai meeting. But I am wary now as the ill treatment of the horses will be more than I can cope with.

[Diplomatico]

I suspect there might be a shortage of kings willing to be associated with the way some of the animals are treated at these events. I went on several occasions but got pretty depressed at some of the things I saw, particularly the lack of care for injured horses, one of which was left to stand around on three legs in the afternoon sun for a couple of hours after losing one at the ankle in a major accident on the home straight. Anywhere else (that I've ever heard of), it would have been put down immediately on the track.

I'm sure the Army treat their horses with care and respect, but they may not be able to exercise the same level of control over the way the visiting trainers handle their own stock.

So, sorry to throw a rather wet blanket on your obvious delight at discovering the place - it can certainly be fun, but the darker side is a bit close for comfort as far as I'm concerned.

More pictures here.....

Excellent comments. I'm sure you don't wear leather belts/shoes/jackets or eat beef, pork, or chicken then? Because those animals are treated soooo well.

[TooPoopedToPop]

Aren't all the races fixed?

Yaa mah?

That's what they used to call it before people here started taking it... then it became yaa bah.

[Chicog]

The horses that they used to have in Phuket years ago for gentle ambles along the beach etc. were ex-Bangkok racers, and apparently they were injected with all sorts of things.

As I found out the hard way when one of them decided a gentle stroll really meant a five furlong sprint.

[Frank James]

I suspect there might be a shortage of kings willing to be associated with the way some of the animals are treated at these events. I went on several occasions but got pretty depressed at some of the things I saw, particularly the lack of care for injured horses, one of which was left to stand around on three legs in the afternoon sun for a couple of hours after losing one at the ankle in a major accident on the home straight. Anywhere else (that I've ever heard of), it would have been put down immediately on the track.

I'm sure the Army treat their horses with care and respect, but they may not be able to exercise the same level of control over the way the visiting trainers handle their own stock.

So, sorry to throw a rather wet blanket on your obvious delight at discovering the place - it can certainly be fun, but the darker side is a bit close for comfort as far as I'm concerned.

More pictures here.....

I was quite concerned when I saw the injured horse today. That he was left on his own, if only for a minute, was quite negligent.

Your pictures are fantastic! Thank you.

As for the question of the races being fixed, that is quite often the case at many tracks, although hard to prove. If you are a bettor (punter) the thing is to know what the fix is. Quite unlikely you will find out, unless you are a professional gambler with shady connections. Arnold Rothstein is dead.

[Dante99]

In the cool early morning it is a pleasure to watch the horses getting tuned up for race day, exercise and training. Get there at first light. No charge.

[habfan]

If you've ever played golf at Lanna Golf Club you'll know that there are 2 holes that intersect the race track on one of the 9 hole courses and require you to clear a portion of the width of the track off the tee. Good luck finding your ball if you you duff it into the sand on the track.

[jobin]

Can advise the golfers that on race days, usually Sat, the Lanna Golf course 3 is closed. No interacting with the ponies or jockeys with flying golf balls

[Jimlove]

Great post and pics, thx and see you on saturday, start 12.15 - look foreward to the "cheerleaders" ...

[Thighlander]

Place and Show are the same bet in Thailand. Minimum wager was 50 thb in BKK; don't know about CNX.

[ChiangraiTony]

Aren't all the races fixed?

Never...

[ebean001]

Did you notice the golf course inside the race track? It is Lana golf course #3. Couple of the holes are outside the oval then 6, 7, 8, aand 9 are inside. No golf during race day.

[bob strutt]

udon thani has races every sat , and as a life time aussie punter it is a great day out, great track and facilities too,

[onthedarkside]

Post removed - prime rule 1) You will not express disrespect of the King of Thailand or any one member of the Thai royal family, whether living or deceased, nor to criticize the monarchy as an institution.

[scottishjohn]

Aren't all the races fixed?

I think you are being very unkind about races! They can't all be fixed otherwise there would never be a true winner and a true looser. It would mean all the people involved had agreed to fix the race(s). I think you should have said 98% of all horse races are fixed.

I used to be involved in a riding/trecking stable next door to a 'racing' stable and had joint gallops etc. You have no idea of the shenanigans that went on in that other place!

[Goshawk]

Aren't all the races fixed?

Pay no attention to that man behind the curtain!

Way to go! Toto ME Smith . . .

[poweratradio]

Thank you, Frank James for this info! I was at the Royal Bangkok Sports Club last month for a day of racing...now I can be a railbird here too.

I was very happy to read of this find but correct me if I am wrong is POLO not whats known as the sport of Kings

[Diplomatico]

Thank you, Frank James for this info! I was at the Royal Bangkok Sports Club last month for a day of racing...now I can be a railbird here too.

I was very happy to read of this find but correct me if I am wrong is POLO not whats known as the sport of Kings

".... Thoroughbred racing was, and is, popular with the aristocrats and royalty of British society, earning it the title "Sport of Kings."

I had never before heard polo referred to as the Sport of Kings; however, a bit of internet research reveals that it too has been called that. Seems both equestrian sports have claim to the title.

[Konini]

My husband went a couple of years ago, said it was a great day out. Came back with tales (which he swears are true, and I actually believe him) about a jockey trying to pull a horse back, but the horse wasn't having it so they jockey jumped off, another jockey being told off screech-style by a tiny Chinese woman in a dress that was way to big for her and he claims to have seen a bloke with a slingshot and a pocketful of ball bearings, but he didn't know if the shot was being aimed at the horse to hurry it up or the jockey to knock him off.

Sounds like tall tales, but there were tears in his eyes when he was telling me about it, and it took him ages and ages to finish the stories because he was laughing so much. I sounds like it just might be a nice fund day out.

[bristolgeoff]

the horse racing has being there for years,no secret at all.the jockeys could be drunk or fixed if their birthday.just a fun day out really,they are so many thais they too.but gambling is not allowed in Thailand as we know,but it,s ok the soldiers run it.also the program is sponsored by a brothel so all above board

[bristolgeoff]

I thought everyone knew the track existed