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Posted

I have no doubt he was trying to save me a few baht, as we do know him well.

But I did specifically ask him to change the whole set together, so all components are new at the same time.

I really don't mind and he was happy to change them for me this morning when I explained why.

Will try to make more of an effort to keep this one lubed more frequently :)

  • Like 1
Posted

so, engine is rectified. cool.

but what about the others parts? Suspensions, brakes etc are they all good?

brake fluids. are they changed?

a bike is not only engine.

Posted

Brake fluid is hydrotrophic (hydrophylic) and accumulates water thence corrosion.

Changing/flushing is cheap & easy.

Brake pads/shoes: okay if not worn out.

Suspension: okay if not leaking.

May be okay for 7 even if all leaked out.

Ride on.

Posted

Is it wise to have an engine rebuild when there's seemingly nothing wrong with the engine?

And an easy enough way to check initial engine health before a possible tear down is via a leak down check. In my travels, I have asked several bike shops (not the backyard boys) in Thailand if they have a Leak Down Tester and every time I get that 'deer in a spotlight' look. Such a great tool to check the combustion chamber's sealing health. Also the reason I'm buying my own from Snapon :)

Sent from my SM-T211 using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted

Garry , a rought guide is to crank the engine over with a compression tester fitted , and see how quickly the pressure escapes. Your doing it the better way. May i ask how much the S-O tool is .

Posted

Garry , a rought guide is to crank the engine over with a compression tester fitted , and see how quickly the pressure escapes. Your doing it the better way. May i ask how much the S-O tool is .

Take an old spark plug, knock out the insulator, weld or epoxy quick coupler to plug body, attach valve and gauge.

TDC, pressurize, listen. Air leaking thru oil filler - rings. Air leaking thru carb - intake valves. Air leaking thru exhaust pipe - exhaust valves.

  • Like 1
Posted

All good advice guys.

This little bike was using oil though, quickly. It wasn't leaking out, so it was going somewhere else ?

To be honest, it would have kept going forever anyway, I was just feeling generous... It's a 7/11 bike, not a race machine :)

Posted (edited)

Garry , a rought guide is to crank the engine over with a compression tester fitted , and see how quickly the pressure escapes. Your doing it the better way. May i ask how much the S-O tool is .

Do can do as the Seedman suggests to locate your leak...intake/ exhaust valves, rings, gaskets.

If you want to quantify the leak-down, you can rig something as in the vid.

I guess less than 10-15 PSI differential leak-down with the #60 orafice is considered acceptable.

The YouTube has a bunch of ideas on this.

A standard compression test to see how much compression you can develop under cranking often is sufficient though.

Cornish: Yes, your oil was getting by the rings and burning.

Your work made mosquitos and other air breathers a little happier.

++ Karma.

Edited by papa al
Posted (edited)

Garry , a rought guide is to crank the engine over with a compression tester fitted , and see how quickly the pressure escapes. Your doing it the better way. May i ask how much the S-O tool is .

Around USD$300...there is supposedly a SnapOn dealer in Thailand, but I would rather run the Thai Customs Gauntlet than trying to buy locally at more than likely inflated prices beyond reasonable expectations smile.png

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=650761&group_ID=675553&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog

I meant to add, that a compression tester is fine for a basic check, but a leak down tester will show you exactly where the problem/s lay :)

Edited by Garry
Posted

Garry , a rought guide is to crank the engine over with a compression tester fitted , and see how quickly the pressure escapes. Your doing it the better way. May i ask how much the S-O tool is .

Around USD$300...there is supposedly a SnapOn dealer in Thailand, but I would rather run the Thai Customs Gauntlet than trying to buy locally at more than likely inflated prices beyond reasonable expectations smile.png

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=650761&group_ID=675553&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog

I meant to add, that a compression tester is fine for a basic check, but a leak down tester will show you exactly where the problem/s lay smile.png

If you want to make your own version. Here is a 'How-To' on YouTube:

Posted

A leak down compression test does not locate the source of the leak(s) in a cylinder, only relative leakage rate.

Visual and audio cues can identify the location.

Used pistons serve well as ashtrays.

Posted (edited)

i am also rejuvenating my wave.

got nice orange spoked rims and irc irz sticky but skinny tires - youngster style. grip is surprisingly very good from IRC iz-R Eagle grip tires! rims and tires cost 1800 THB including new rim spokes.

nr73.jpg

moreover, changes the lever grips to nice golden ones and got a nice aluminum stylish front brake reservoir cap and plastic bag holder again gold colors.

got a couple of more bits and fixed the steering play as it was going back and forth a good deal! now good.

today battery will be installed - riding it without batter from the beginning:) - and also fork seals will be replaced, fork oil will be added etc.

chain and sprockets are in good condition still magically after years!

also will buy rear shocks today. found some YSS shocks for good price. Will get YSS Mammoth as it can carry 250 kgs so pretty much heavy duty. 1000 thb it says but hope for two and not one!

and will change some plastics too.

last some performance mods will follow, carb jetting and maybe engine bore up kit. want to slide my knees with my wave:)

will post some photos when it is done:)

Edited by ll2
  • Like 2
Posted

i am also rejuvenating my wave.

got nice orange spoked rims and irc irz sticky but skinny tires - youngster style. grip is surprisingly very good from IRC iz-R Eagle grip tires! rims and tires cost 1800 THB including new rim spokes.

nr73.jpg

moreover, changes the lever grips to nice golden ones and got a nice aluminum stylish front brake reservoir cap and plastic bag holder again gold colors.

got a couple of more bits and fixed the steering play as it was going back and forth a good deal! now good.

today battery will be installed - riding it without batter from the beginning:) - and also fork seals will be replaced, fork oil will be added etc.

chain and sprockets are in good condition still magically after years!

also will buy rear shocks today. found some YSS shocks for good price. Will get YSS Mammoth as it can carry 250 kgs so pretty much heavy duty. 1000 thb it says but hope for two and not one!

and will change some plastics too.

last some performance mods will follow, carb jetting and maybe engine bore up kit. want to slide my knees with my wave:)

will post some photos when it is done:)

You are not going to change the oil in it for the first time in ages, are you?

I hope not.

Just put the old oil back in after mods.

Should be fine.

  • Like 1
Posted

i am also rejuvenating my wave.

got nice orange spoked rims and irc irz sticky but skinny tires - youngster style. grip is surprisingly very good from IRC iz-R Eagle grip tires! rims and tires cost 1800 THB including new rim spokes.

nr73.jpg

moreover, changes the lever grips to nice golden ones and got a nice aluminum stylish front brake reservoir cap and plastic bag holder again gold colors.

got a couple of more bits and fixed the steering play as it was going back and forth a good deal! now good.

today battery will be installed - riding it without batter from the beginning:) - and also fork seals will be replaced, fork oil will be added etc.

chain and sprockets are in good condition still magically after years!

also will buy rear shocks today. found some YSS shocks for good price. Will get YSS Mammoth as it can carry 250 kgs so pretty much heavy duty. 1000 thb it says but hope for two and not one!

and will change some plastics too.

last some performance mods will follow, carb jetting and maybe engine bore up kit. want to slide my knees with my wave:)

will post some photos when it is done:)

You are not going to change the oil in it for the first time in ages, are you?

I hope not.

Just put the old oil back in after mods.

Should be fine.

I have changed the oil some time ago during last year..so it is fine:)

Posted

A leak down compression test does not locate the source of the leak(s) in a cylinder, only relative leakage rate.

Visual and audio cues can identify the location.

Used pistons serve well as ashtrays.

A leak down & compression test are two separate entities.
  • Like 1
Posted

Here she is... Beautiful smile.png

What is the decal with the checkered flag?

Can't read it.

Consider taking off the other stickers.

Waves have esthetically pleasing lines,

diminished by stickers, IMO.

Posted

Sometimes parked near my condo I see a white Wave125fi

that has been upgraded with struts &

CBR150 mag wheels, tires and disk brakes.

I very like the look.

Suitable for an older gentleman, I'd say.

Posted

A leak down compression test does not locate the source of the leak(s) in a cylinder, only relative leakage rate.

Visual and audio cues can identify the location.

Used pistons serve well as ashtrays.

A leak down & compression test are two separate entities.

Garry,

I see you strive for clearcut nomenclature.

Bravo.

1. A 'standard' compression test measures the compression developed in the cylinder as the motor is cranked.

Good to know.

If okay, then #2 & 3 maybe not important.

2. If low, another excellent compression test uses external compressed gas to locate the source of the leak, as described by Seedy above.

Cheap. EZ. Reliable.

3. A specialized kind of compression test known as the 'leak down test' can be used to further quantify the leakage in a cylinder.

This can be performed with the $300 SnapOn tool, or maybe rigged for a few $$, following YouTube models.

May your compression always be high....

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