Help with my Auto Transmission please

[His Masters Voice]

I have a problem with either my Auto Transmission or the Torque Converter.

First my, my bad. The service was 5 years past it's due date, plus 20-30,000 klms overdue.

Yes, I don't drive the car a lot as I don't drive the car that often. My car is in the West.

I've owned the car for more then a decade, I don't tow.

So, I got my car serviced recently.

Being the time between services, I just presumed that the Auto was a bit low on fluid.

No visable leaks.

So the mechanic just replaced the fluid and used a standard gasket kit in it.

The problem is that after being left overnight at the first time it's driven the next day, and the transmission is placed under a little stress (5% uphill and turning a corner) the car shutters a little bit.

Sometimes a little, sometimes a moderate amount. Not when you first drive off mind you, it's a flat road.

Once it's done that first stress, it works fine, smooth as, not a hint of a problem.

It's almost like the system gets 'primed' then it works fine.

Any thoughts on what both the issue is and how I can get it fixed relatively cheaply?

[ktm jeff]

Some autos use a very specific fluid , main dealer only sometimes ( my Jeep ) .Did you have the filter/s replaced too.What vehicle is it , age etc .

[WarpSpeed]

Yes most definitely should have had the filters replaced at that service, you said it had this issue the day after the fluid was replaced? Has it happened again since? You may have already worked it out, as stated possibly needed to be primed in a sense under load working all the air out of the system.

[His Masters Voice]

Yes most definitely should have had the filters replaced at that service, you said it had this issue the day after the fluid was replaced? Has it happened again since? You may have already worked it out, as stated possibly needed to be primed in a sense under load working all the air out of the system.

The problem existed for some time before I had the car serviced, so, the mechanic did not cause it.

It had a standard 'kit' used (though I don't know exactly what the 'kit' consisted of).

The brief 'shudder' happens on a daily basis before and after the service.

'Air out of the system'?

No idea if the filters were replaced, or not.

Though, I'm fairly sure the system wasn't 'flushed'.

What gets me is that after the first few minutes of driving the car is sweet as, sooooooooooo smooth.

Shifts up and down with out issues, no jerking.

The overdrive kicks in @ 80 klms/phr, kicks out a few k's below that (implying that the sensors are working correctly).

Kicks down to a lower gear if asked to hurry along.

[ktm jeff]

Im wondering if the fluid is draining back through a non-return valve , maybe in the filter , or something isnt fitted "snug". Maybe some dirt / gasket / silicon is swiming around . Cheap enougth for another fluid / filter change .Assuming its not engine related .

[WarpSpeed]

Yes most definitely should have had the filters replaced at that service, you said it had this issue the day after the fluid was replaced? Has it happened again since? You may have already worked it out, as stated possibly needed to be primed in a sense under load working all the air out of the system.

The problem existed for some time before I had the car serviced, so, the mechanic did not cause it.

It had a standard 'kit' used (though I don't know exactly what the 'kit' consisted of).

The brief 'shudder' happens on a daily basis before and after the service.

'Air out of the system'?

No idea if the filters were replaced, or not.

Though, I'm fairly sure the system wasn't 'flushed'.

What gets me is that after the first few minutes of driving the car is sweet as, sooooooooooo smooth.

Shifts up and down with out issues, no jerking.

The overdrive kicks in @ 80 klms/phr, kicks out a few k's below that (implying that the sensors are working correctly).

Kicks down to a lower gear if asked to hurry along.

Yes, when he removes the pan is one of those rare times when the system will bleed out and can get some air the system. Normally the intake for the fluid is submerged in the fluid in the pan and it never gets lower then the intake preventing bleed back along with, as KTM says, check valves forcing flow in one direction only, but when he removes the pan and the closed loop is opened allowing fluid to drain back and out then oft times you need to run it a bit before it removes all the air, but now I see you've updated to include it having issues prior to the service and it's a bit frustrating getting info after the fact.

Maybe KTM is onto something in that there is a dirty or faulty check valve in the system allowing back flow while the car is off. Having not been serviced in so long and not used a lot as you say, it's more likely just to be dirty and or sticking somehow? I always fall into this trap. First off what year is this car? What make? Please provide more vehicle info.? Most modern cars have a diagnostic program that can tell you what the problem is, they get codes through the ECU.

Edited January 27, 2015 by WarpSpeed

[krisb]

Sounds like the flux capacitor.

Take it back to the mechanic?

Edited January 27, 2015 by krisb

[jb525]

The problem lies with not driving the car very often. When autos are stored and not driven. The part of the seal which is at the top of the box dries out and goes a bit brittle. This causes the first few applications to bleed fluid past the seal, not allowing full clamping force. So the clutch slips which you feel as a shudder. When it's really bad it will flare. Meaning, the engine revs up before the clutch engages. There's not much you can do. Some use Lucas stop slip product. Works when it hasn't started slipping too bad.

Good luck. Maybe time to sell?

[transam]

Check fluid colour...........Should be pink.......If brown you have a problem............Check fluid levels via hand book.............Usually start engine, shift through the gears at stand still.......Put in park and remove the dip stick,engine still running.....wipe it......put back in and remove quickly.....Check level on stick......Two notches, lower is cold fluid, upper is hot fluid.

Doubt if filter problem unless the box has a problem of chewed up plates, inspection of fluid on stick will tell you if wiped on tissue.

[transam]

Check fluid colour...........Should be pink.......If brown you have a problem............Check fluid levels via hand book.............Usually start engine, shift through the gears at stand still.......Put in park and remove the dip stick,engine still running.....wipe it......put back in and remove quickly.....Check level on stick......Two notches, lower is cold fluid, upper is hot fluid.

Doubt if filter problem unless the box has a problem of chewed up plates, inspection of fluid on stick will tell you if wiped on tissue.

[His Masters Voice]

It's a closed unit, so no ability to check anything.

Chatted with the mechanic who referred me to the Specialist Auto guy.

Described the problem to him, he replied with some techinicial stuff which made sense at the time, but an hourr later, when I was trying to recall the terms used to retype here, I forgot, sorry.

To effect a repair to the Auto is roughly, through a re-conditioned unit, would cost more then then 1/2 the cars worth.

Add in a bit of rust in the sills, lower ball joints (+ a wheel alignment) and the serpentine belt (fancy fan belt), front pads and judging on the slight grasp and release of the brakes, the rotors need machining, a rocker cover gasket (slight leak) and a high pressure hydrolic line (power steering), indicator lens and a recommended brake fluid flush (not done this past decade), it makes the car, not economicial to repair.

Looks like I'll drive her into the ground, then buy something new.

Thanks for the replies, I thought there was a cheap simple fix.

[krisb]

Reminds me of a Ford!

[BSJ]

"Looks like I'll drive her into the ground, " I think you already have!

[WarpSpeed]

"Looks like I'll drive her into the ground, " I think you already have!

Sorry, don't mean to laugh but.............................................................. That was funny, mostly because it's sounds so true..

[MYKTHEMIN]

I cannot believe it does not have a dip stick, how is the fluid topped up? I would add a can of auto box additive and give it a good run, may help, worth a try?

[His Masters Voice]

I cannot believe it does not have a dip stick, how is the fluid topped up? I would add a can of auto box additive and give it a good run, may help, worth a try?

Do you remember the days when Battries had those cute little lids you could twist off and fill with water (distilled or not).

Then came the 'sealed battery'.

Actually, I havn't 'run it into the ground'.

It's because I know what is required of it is testament to that fact.

Cars are a machine, with basic maintainace requirements.

Eventually, machines reach a stage where it becomes cost prohibitive to continue that maintainance program.

For example, replacing the serpinitine belt is a case in hand. It's not broken, just worn.

But it's the major belt, so you replace it before it's broken.

Still, I appreciate the advice here, as I'm not across all the aspects of a car, and autos is not something I know a lot about.

[MYKTHEMIN]

I cannot believe it does not have a dip stick, how is the fluid topped up? I would add a can of auto box additive and give it a good run, may help, worth a try?

Do you remember the days when Battries had those cute little lids you could twist off and fill with water (distilled or not).

Then came the 'sealed battery'.

Actually, I havn't 'run it into the ground'.

It's because I know what is required of it is testament to that fact.

Cars are a machine, with basic maintainace requirements.

Eventually, machines reach a stage where it becomes cost prohibitive to continue that maintainance program.

For example, replacing the serpinitine belt is a case in hand. It's not broken, just worn.

But it's the major belt, so you replace it before it's broken.

Still, I appreciate the advice here, as I'm not across all the aspects of a car, and autos is not something I know a lot about.

Well both my vehicles in Thailand have little tops on the batteries and need filling up quite regularly, one is 6 months old and the other is 4 years, only my Honda bikes have sealed batteries along with my kubota tractor, good luck with the auto.

[sotsira]

I cannot believe it does not have a dip stick, how is the fluid topped up? I would add a can of auto box additive and give it a good run, may help, worth a try?

The sealed box's have a filling plug on the side casing, there, you can refill or top up the fluid

by pumping the fluid in while in neutral with the engine running until the fluid starts to flow back out then you have the filling capacity.

You need to use a pump like this:

Edited January 30, 2015 by sotsira

[moz45]

"Looks like I'll drive her into the ground, " I think you already have!

Sorry, don't mean to laugh but.............................................................. That was funny, mostly because it's sounds so true..

ha ha ha

OP man sounding like the cheap charlie.No mechanic service more than 5 year already!

[BSJ]

"Looks like I'll drive her into the ground, " I think you already have!

Sorry, don't mean to laugh but.............................................................. That was funny, mostly because it's sounds so true..

ha ha ha

OP man sounding like the cheap charlie.No mechanic service more than 5 year already!

Yep, that's what I though, but was to nice to say it!