EBC Brakes New pad options

[EbcBrakes]

EBC have now improved the Ultimax brake disc pads.

Ultimax 2 have now been released

Ultimax2™ Brake Pads

The radically improved Ultimax ECO friendly brake pad. If you thought our Ultimax brake pad was good, this one is even BETTER!

This is what Ultimax2™ brake pads deliver:

• Superb daily driver R90 type approved pad.
• Features red “brake in’ surface coating for instant safe braking after install.
• New 100 % ECO friendly material with ZERO sulphides.
• No shims for noise reduction needed.
• More bite from cold.
• Works in hot and dry climates as well as in cold.
• Fully R 90 approved as was the original Ultimax grade.

Ultimax2™ brake pad will supersede on a stock rotation basis its predecessor material and customers will only be supplied Ultimax2™ as stocks of the 2012 sell through or they place a specific order for a production run of 100 sets per reference for a dedicated production batch.

If you simply need a quality OEM replacement pad, look no further than the Ultimax2™ brake pad. Made in the UK Bristol EBC Brakes manufacturing plant the Ultimax2™ brake pad is a beautifully engineered brake compound that lasts well, produces minimal dust and is the perfect choice for the urban or daily driver. Why spend more if all you need is a quality replacement pad.

The Ultimax2™ brake pad is a total NON METALLIC pad containing ZERO steel fibre making this a cleaner pad far less aggressive to cast iron brake rotors.

Ultimax2™ has also been graded Code “N” by the USA brake ratings system meaning this receives the TOP award for its environmentally friendly status and has also achieved the much coveted GG friction rating, almost unheard of in the automotive brake Industry.

This equates to a clean pad, that lasts longer, extends disc life and emits ZERO toxicity and is a true PAD FOR THE FUTURE. The brake effect with the GG ratting is truly amazing and delivers powerful braking at first brake application. Ultimax2™ has also been widely tested in cold and damp conditions in Northern Europe and Scandinavia and in the Caribbean hot and humid temperatures where brake noise was ZERO.

• GG friction rated highest in brake effect
• Top Rated with Class N by the USA environmental testing to SAE J2975:2011

To Order Click Here

[MYKTHEMIN]

I cannot see any offered for my Mitsubishi Pajero Sport, 2011 2 wheel drive auto, 2500cc. ???????

[Ace of Pop]

Brakes are an optional extra on Mitsu.

[EbcBrakes]

I cannot see any offered for my Mitsubishi Pajero Sport, 2011 2 wheel drive auto, 2500cc. ???????

Ultimax 2,700 baht

Greenstuff 4,100 baht

Yellowstuff 4,900 baht

All in Stock

To order http://www.ebcbrakesdirectonline.com

[MYKTHEMIN]

Which are recommended for normal highway use? and does the price include ems postage?

[EbcBrakes]

Which are recommended for normal highway use? and does the price include ems postage?

Ultimax would be fine for most people, if you drive a bit harder than most then the Greenstuff would suit better, EMS is 100 baht incl packaging

[transam]

Forgive me here, but the original manufacturers pads are great, they do the job great..........Seems your "stuff" is for the street racer at a much higher cost than OEM...?

[IMHO]

Forgive me here, but the original manufacturers pads are great, they do the job great..........Seems your "stuff" is for the street racer at a much higher cost than OEM...?

Now that you've brought it up... the only reason I'd by non-OE pads for a daily driver, would be if there was a clear difference in stopping distance. I wonder if the vendor can supply comparative test data on this?

Edited February 3, 2015 by IMHO

[LivinLOS]

Forgive me here, but the original manufacturers pads are great, they do the job great..........Seems your "stuff" is for the street racer at a much higher cost than OEM...?

What about all those guys dumping 20 inch rims (or 18s with high profile off road tires) on pickups that never bother to upgrade the calipers..

I even asked a wheel shop and they were like "oh no its ok".. er really ??

[WarpSpeed]

OEM brakes are almost always over-engineered to do more then required, especially on a pick up or SUV which is designed to carry loads. Changing rims size should not have a noticeably detrimental effect, especially with ABS. The rolling resistance may offer a slightly different feel but nothing so drastic as changing the entire brake system to new calipers, even an upgrade in brake material would be plenty sufficient.

[LivinLOS]

Really ?? I am a bit surprised at that..

[WarpSpeed]

Why?? Would they spec brakes to only carry the actual vehicle weight unloaded and at minimal speeds and minimal stress given how necessary they are? They package cars for a range of size and features they don't make wholesale changes to the entire specs of the given vehicle to accommodate changes within a given range of modifications. I know this will hit a nerve on some again but too bad, I refer again to racing in the stock prepared classed where brakes are stock with the only changes allowed being pad material and brakes are plenty adequate for the highest stresses and durations from 20 minutes to 24 hours. Tires are often slightly over stock in width and diameter and being stressed to the max multiple times per lap from speeds up to 170mph down to 20 without any failures and plenty of stopping power.

[EbcBrakes]

Forgive me here, but the original manufacturers pads are great, they do the job great..........Seems your "stuff" is for the street racer at a much higher cost than OEM...?

Ask any EBC brake user if they would switch back, the lower dust issue, better stopping performance, even from Ultimax are all worth it and Ultimax are around same cost as OE pads

[transam]

Forgive me here, but the original manufacturers pads are great, they do the job great..........Seems your "stuff" is for the street racer at a much higher cost than OEM...?

Ask any EBC brake user if they would switch back, the lower dust issue, better stopping performance, even from Ultimax are all worth it and Ultimax are around same cost as OE pads

marketshare.jpg

I used green in Wilwood 4 pot calipers on my Pontiac, they were OK, what I am saying is the stock pads on the Vigo are excellent.

[seedy]

A larger diameter wheel / tire combination will exert more torque - so it will need more brake force to stop at the same rate.

For the same reason that it is hard to get 750 lb/ft from a one foot torque wrench, but easy for a four foot wrench.

The question is if the stock calipers are adequate

[Ace of Pop]

Harder front pads need extra caliper pressure to stop in the same distance as soft ones.Rear brakes dont do much anyway, bit like hard straight line braking on a Mo Cycle. Rear Disks are more cosmetic,these days on the relatively slow vehicles here.A lower Dust pad is more use to most of us i recon.

[initiala4]

Forgive me here, but the original manufacturers pads are great, they do the job great..........Seems your "stuff" is for the street racer at a much higher cost than OEM...?

Ask any EBC brake user if they would switch back, the lower dust issue, better stopping performance, even from Ultimax are all worth it and Ultimax are around same cost as OE pads

marketshare.jpg

I was a former EBC Redstuff with their ultimate rotors? Pretty much I trashed it all in less than 4 months of hard use. The cold braking is poor, while their heat dissipation is also poor. At the end I used another brand of rotors / pads with better results.

[JimSiam]

OEM brakes are almost always over-engineered to do more then required

Except the VP commodore wagon I use to have, by the time i got to the last corner on the way home, the pedal was to the floor.

Each 20,000 km, front and rear pad changes and front discs were changed.

So not all OEM brakes are perfect, they ended up putting the VS brakes in my car before releasing the VS Commodore, they were a lot better, but wore out quicker with no fade.

[transam]

OEM brakes are almost always over-engineered to do more then required

Except the VP commodore wagon I use to have, by the time i got to the last corner on the way home, the pedal was to the floor.

Each 20,000 km, front and rear pad changes and front discs were changed.

So not all OEM brakes are perfect, they ended up putting the VS brakes in my car before releasing the VS Commodore, they were a lot better, but wore out quicker with no fade.

Pedal don't go to the floor on anything where the hydraulics are good..............

[EbcBrakes]

I was a former EBC Redstuff with their ultimate rotors? Pretty much I trashed it all in less than 4 months of hard use. The cold braking is poor, while their heat dissipation is also poor. At the end I used another brand of rotors / pads with better results.

It would be more useful to know the distance they lasted than time as it would explain more, this may have been an issue a long time ago with this pad/disc combination, personally Red is not a pad we promote a lot, Yellowstuff or Greenstuff are our most sold pad.

Red stuff current compound state - Very minimal disc/rotor damage characteristics.

And

As EBC’s flagship street brake pad material for prestige and faster cars above 200BHP, the 09 version of EBC Redstuff ceramic Brake pads sets new standards in brake performance. Redstuff ceramic brake pads have always been known for its low dust ability but the latest blend has greatly reduced the phenomenon of pad “Pick up” or disc scoring and reduced dust even further.

[WarpSpeed]

A larger diameter wheel / tire combination will exert more torque - so it will need more brake force to stop at the same rate.

For the same reason that it is hard to get 750 lb/ft from a one foot torque wrench, but easy for a four foot wrench.

The question is if the stock calipers are adequate

Yes, that is what I said too, and the answer is 'yes' in 95% of the applications so then all that is needed is an upgraded pad with more gripping force. Honestly never yet seen an actual OEM caliper fail to be able to handle an upgraded tire and rim combination by actually not stopping a vehicle or being seriously premature in it's stopping capacity. That's not to say an upgrade won't be better, but still isn't "necessary".

[WarpSpeed]

OEM brakes are almost always over-engineered to do more then required

Except the VP commodore wagon I use to have, by the time i got to the last corner on the way home, the pedal was to the floor.

Each 20,000 km, front and rear pad changes and front discs were changed.

So not all OEM brakes are perfect, they ended up putting the VS brakes in my car before releasing the VS Commodore, they were a lot better, but wore out quicker with no fade.

Good so we agree then. "almost always" Not "always"... T/A makes a good point too, what you're describing sounds more like brake fade due to boiling the fluid and that's what needed to be upgraded to handle the extra heat, the fluid lost it's viscosity and the system gained air, the pads too may have been generating too much heat contributing to the problem, a fluid change to a higher heat tolerance and problem solved and that is also an often over looked upgrade simple enough to do. But you're describing pad (wrong compound for the driving purpose) and or fluid failure, not the brakes themselves, sounds like they're working just fine.

Edited February 4, 2015 by WarpSpeed

[JimSiam]

^{As with anything on cars, OE is capable of normal usage, but still people replace OE tyres with Pirelli, Michelin, upgrade shocks, upgrade lights and some like myself even upgrade brakes for the small amount it cost, stopping even half a meter quicker can make a big difference.}

^{If OE wasnt capable would any car be able to be insured?}

^{Lots of people just like better for many reasons, some buy clothes at Big C some Tailor make, does that mean anyone is wrong for wanting better?}

[WarpSpeed]

Your arguing with yourself, no one said there was anything wrong with having better if you can afford to, except that unlike just wearing cheaper tennis shoes, usually upgrades end up causing other issues with other components not made to handle the upgrades performance. Everything the manufacturer does is ENGINEERED to work with everything else at the same stress and performance levels including drive line clearances or tolerances and suspension geometry which is why so many people in racing end up causing themselves more problems for less performance trying to out engineer the big companies who are far better at it then they are. Bottom line is, is the gain going to be worth the extra cost/trouble and will the extra upgrades cause other parts to fail prematurely or is the OEM standard capable even with the same upgrades?

Edited February 4, 2015 by WarpSpeed

[WarpSpeed]

Factually there was a Top Gear episode a while back which demonstrated this exact scenario where they were trying to make a Renault Avantime faster than an EVO and I can't find the episode on YouTube to save my life, but the first thing they did was to put on larger brakes and then the rims and tires didn't fit so they had to upsize them which cost them a bunch more but guess what? The car went slower not faster by like 2 seconds, then they went to Jeremy's preferred fall back and gave it more power, still not much improvement. So they went to more aero with a plywood (?) splitter courtesy of Jeremy's engineering degree and a nonsensical F1 rear wing and that was even worse. So in the end they realized they could dump a bunch of money vainly attempting to improve performance and not really improve the manufacturers engineered performance by a significant amount instead it just complicated things more.

[In the jungle]

All brake pads are a compromise.

The one you choose depends where in the spectrum of compromise you wish to be.

For the vast majority of applications I use stock pads as they will work well in a wide range of circumstances and will be benign in character.

On one bike I use a non standard compound as it gives better initial bite but I do so in the knowledge that the discs will wear faster.

At the extreme with a brake pad formulated for competition use you may well find that when cold they have limited effectiveness and are noisy. They may also have a high wear rate, chew up the discs and require high pedal pressures. But even with competition pads you cannot simply define a best as driver preference in terms of brake characteristics is an important consideration.

IMO in looking for a better brake pad the first step is to consider what you mean by better.

I am glad that the EBC man is expanding the choice readily available to consumers in this marketplace and I wish him success.

[EbcBrakes]

I am glad that the EBC man is expanding the choice readily available to consumers in this marketplace and I wish him success.

Thank you, here is a small guide from EBC on how to choose what may be the right combination for you, we are always here to advise from our experience as well.

[MYKTHEMIN]

Thanks EBC for all your quick replies, however I have decided to stick with new OE pads for my Pajero, the last set have done 130000 kms and work well do not fade in the mountains and do not deposit black dust on my alloy wheels and best of all only cost 2100 baht, bargain.

[initiala4]

I was a former EBC Redstuff with their ultimate rotors? Pretty much I trashed it all in less than 4 months of hard use. The cold braking is poor, while their heat dissipation is also poor. At the end I used another brand of rotors / pads with better results.

It would be more useful to know the distance they lasted than time as it would explain more, this may have been an issue a long time ago with this pad/disc combination, personally Red is not a pad we promote a lot, Yellowstuff or Greenstuff are our most sold pad.

Red stuff current compound state - Very minimal disc/rotor damage characteristics.

And

As EBC’s flagship street brake pad material for prestige and faster cars above 200BHP, the 09 version of EBC Redstuff ceramic Brake pads sets new standards in brake performance. Redstuff ceramic brake pads have always been known for its low dust ability but the latest blend has greatly reduced the phenomenon of pad “Pick up” or disc scoring and reduced dust even further.

EBC Brake Temperature Chart 600.JPG

I used this set for about 5-7,000km max. Generally the car is a dedicated spirited highway car with each commute consist of 50km each way. My ride during that time was a Mercedes E280 which is well under 200bhp.

[EbcBrakes]

I was a former EBC Redstuff with their ultimate rotors? Pretty much I trashed it all in less than 4 months of hard use. The cold braking is poor, while their heat dissipation is also poor. At the end I used another brand of rotors / pads with better results.

It would be more useful to know the distance they lasted than time as it would explain more, this may have been an issue a long time ago with this pad/disc combination, personally Red is not a pad we promote a lot, Yellowstuff or Greenstuff are our most sold pad.

Red stuff current compound state - Very minimal disc/rotor damage characteristics.

And

As EBC’s flagship street brake pad material for prestige and faster cars above 200BHP, the 09 version of EBC Redstuff ceramic Brake pads sets new standards in brake performance. Redstuff ceramic brake pads have always been known for its low dust ability but the latest blend has greatly reduced the phenomenon of pad “Pick up” or disc scoring and reduced dust even further.

EBC Brake Temperature Chart 600.JPG

I used this set for about 5-7,000km max. Generally the car is a dedicated spirited highway car with each commute consist of 50km each way. My ride during that time was a Mercedes E280 which is well under 200bhp.

Greenstuff could have been a better choice (especially for cold braking), but Red stuff have greatly improved in recent times due to advances in compound composition.