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Lifan Cross and X-Cross


floridaguy

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Have been putting the Lifan200 dual sport to the test on Laos roads.

Even in the south where straight roads exist, 90-100kph is about all you want to do.

Have quite a few villages along the way.

Rode about 85 km on an unpaved road.

Took some getting used to, but the Lifan was surprisingly tolerant of washboard and slamming into pot holes.

The 21" front wheel with the heavy duty 90/90 Michelin can take a punch.

All good.

You finding the 38T sprocket reduces the revs a lot on the road?,my seems buzzy at 80kph.

Might try 40T first and beware of Red Ants

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Just coming up to 2000km on the Lifan, that's in about 3 months and just thought I would give you my honest thoughts of whether I spent my 46k wisely..or not.

Pros.

It is a real fun bike to ride. with enough power around town, a great un-cramped riding position, light and agile and safe in that you can ride through potholes, ruts dried concrete lumps that festoon my locality, as though they are not there. There is a major 2km roadworks almost on my doorstep, which ride through around once a day and it has turned this pain in the arse, into a great laugh of an assault course. It also fits on the back of my pickup and is easy to load and unload with the two of us.

Cons. The front brake assy is not the best and was squealing embarrassingly for around a month until I fixed it with a couple of tiny rubbers. The gearbox is quite agricultural and I still haven't got used to the pattern and wonder if I ever will, so once in a while I am still changing down instead of up.

It is not going to make a great touring bike for two, we fit on it okay, but there is not enough power for the 130kg payload and as the others have discovered the gearing is just too low. So fine for one, a struggle for two and I sure some will say I told you so but I bought it at the right time for the building of the underpass.

What I have learned is that I really like dirt bikes, this one seems to suit my riding style/speed and body shape, so what I get back from my European trip I will see if we can hire a CRF, to see if that is enough for us both.

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Sounds to me like you don't really like it if you are already talking about test riding a crf or you have just realised these bikes are no good two up.will have same issue with crf ,done 700 km in a day on my own last week no problems,have done 140km with a pillion before and never again way to uncomfortable 2-up.

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Sounds to me like you don't really like it if you are already talking about test riding a crf or you have just realised these bikes are no good two up.will have same issue with crf ,done 700 km in a day on my own last week no problems,have done 140km with a pillion before and never again way to uncomfortable 2-up.

The Lifan LF200GY-5 is indeed not the best ride with 2-up, but the Honda CRF250L or M has a maximum load specification of 159 kilogram. While the Lifan LF200GY-5 has a maximum load capacity of 149 kilogram. I not have the idea that the extra 10 kilograms of load capacity would make that much difference…

The Lifan LF200GY-5 weight is 119 kilogram, while the Honda CRF250L weighs in at 143 kilograms.

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The Honda CB500X would be a good choice for a road trip with two people, but it also is directly in a whole different price range. Honda CB500X 220,000 THB vs the 48,000 THB for the Lifan LF200GY-5.

Probably a dumb idea, but maybe it’s an idea to teach the passenger how to ride a motorcycle and buy two Lifan LF200GY-5’s…

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Obviously there are better bikes than the Lifan. The question should be is there better value bikes. My 5 years of Lifan ownership cost me 20,000 baht. The bike runs just as well now as the day I bought it, except my hired man owns it now. Sure some issues of quality. The headlight is garbage, the exhaust system rusts up very quickly, and the shifting pattern is just dumb. But they are almost giving these things away, and you could easily get 10 years out of one of these, more if don't mind replacing stuff.

It's not a head turner, and very few of your friends will be jealous, but then again you didn't buy the CFR so you got an extra 80 grand in your pocket to spend as you please. Nothing wrong with that.

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Thanks for your advice lads, but I already have a Honda 400 which, as you say it fine two up, better than a CB500 as it is a little less cramped for me, but I can't get it onto my truck and it is a bugga in the mud and not too great on shitty roads, whereas the Lifan is brilliant on both. I just need some more horses and torques.....Nox?

MrsB has been riding a lot longer than me, but riding at her pace would drive me nuts, Jaysus I am not a Rossi facsimile by any stretch, but she is slooooooooooooooow.

And like Papa I too get a lot of folks saying what a great bike and blasting through the roadworks, where it is truly at home I can just feel the envy.

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so blasting along on an unpaved road east of Vang Vieng yesterday,

heard an odd clunk.

Stopped and looked back to see my top box lying in the dirt.

The Lifan rack kaput.

Two tubes and two welds, snapped.

With difficulty and to the great amusement of about 10 local urchins,

papa was able to lash the box onto aft seat, and thence find a welding shop in town.

Repair bill 50,000kip; ~B200.

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so blasting along on an unpaved road east of Vang Vieng yesterday,

heard an odd clunk.

Stopped and looked back to see my top box lying in the dirt.

The Lifan rack kaput.

Two tubes and two welds, snapped.

With difficulty and to the great amusement of about 10 local urchins,

papa was able to lash the box onto aft seat, and thence find a welding shop in town.

Repair bill 50,000kip; ~B200.

Did you have luggage on it? I assume the back box was back a long way, causing a considerable bending moment on the rack. I built a pannier bag support frame a while back, spreads the load and applies no bending moment of any consequence.

Suggest you do the same, pretty easy to make and keeps the weight a little lower and further forward. Uses a standard pair of cheapo bags 150baht each.

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Have been putting the Lifan200 dual sport to the test on Laos roads.

Even in the south where straight roads exist, 90-100kph is about all you want to do.

Have quite a few villages along the way.

Rode about 85 km on an unpaved road.

Took some getting used to, but the Lifan was surprisingly tolerant of washboard and slamming into pot holes.

The 21" front wheel with the heavy duty 90/90 Michelin can take a punch.

All good.

Which type of Michelin 90/90 did Papa use?,and where are they available?. Also might use on my other bike,I assume they have other sizes?.

Cheers

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papa just back 2 Patts; month, nearly 2Kkm on the 200cc D/S.

Lao wow.

Trip was south to north, main stops:

Pakse,

village off 13,

Konglor cave,

Vientiane,

Vang Veng,

Vientiane.

Bike ran great, thrashed her a bit,

but no crash, thank Buddha.

The onliest failures were the rack snapping and

the speedo cable came off-screwed; ez field-fix by

papa the master mechanic. 5 5

I was going to take the nite train to bkk after crossing into NK at about 1;00,

but the train dint leave till 6, so screw it, headed out down the Mit, #2.

Slept Korat.

Of course papa was full throttle a lot,

and the speedo does weird shit there,

but she seems to run almost as fast as my cbr150.

A 6th gear would be sweet.

I did not even add any air to the tires;

left w/ 21psi each; 19psi now.

post-174911-0-26078400-1458211598_thumb.

later

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  • 7 months later...

Latest plan for the ’fan.

Been running the Chinese dual-sport a year & 1/2; about 7Kkm.

Most of those Ks have been on roads, mostly paved roads.

Long gone are the original cheap nobbies,

changed for some expensive road oriented treads.

But papa been getting the urge for dirty riding.

In particular the mountain refuge Khao Mia Kaeo, 20 km east of Pattaya.

Decided to procure a second set of stock wheels, B5400,

including breke-disk and bearings. (on order from local Lifan dealer)

and will set them up with a pair of Vee Rubber VBR308 trials tires ordered

@B3400. (on order from Vee in BKK; local dealers could not get.??)

I will be installing a rim-lock on the front and two rim-locks on the rear,

to allow running at 5psi or less.

B1650/3, Ebay.

So about 11,000baht, once tubes, for parts.

Already have the original chain and rear sprocket.

The plan is to allow EZ switcheroo between DS mode,

& difficult-single-track mode.

Edited by papa al
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Beware papa I just got a puncture today running low pressure on the tyres had super traction though.not sure if tyre Spin on rim  or actual object pierced tube ,  will update when I get tube out tommorow

Edited by taninthai
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18 hours ago, taninthai said:

Beware papa I just got a puncture today running low pressure on the tyres had super traction though.not sure if tyre Spin on rim  or actual object pierced tube ,  will update when I get tube out tommorow

Me too, tore a valve out of the rear tyre recently and the front had slipping damage, put new tubes in and now keep pressures at 2 bar. We (me and MrsB) still fly over the dirt/rough sections and speed bumps, with both <deleted> half out the saddle.

 

I would maintain that these bikes are the safest bike around town, one, you sit higher so visibility is better, but most of all the surface undulations and ruts don't have any effect on handling. The later is just as well because the headlight is so crap, so that needs addressing for night riding.

 

It also has a good turn of speed, real handy for crossing the Mittapap road and getting away from possible drunks at night.

 

I am almost a year in now and this bike is such fun, best 47k I have ever spent.

 

Upgrades so far, new wheel bearings, new chain and new seat cover, still considering what to do with the headlight...oh and added a heel-plate to the gear shift.

IMG_6711.JPG

Edited by AllanB
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Yep looks like I tore the vale out ,not got tube out yet but the valve is just spinning round and round,,,,,heavy duty tubes needed or that tubliss system papa posted in the other thread.......wishI new about that system 1 month ago while i was still in Europe ,could have packed one in my suitcase??

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TUbliss seems the way to go if getting home is a concern. 

Chain-saw thru rear tire and still they go. Wow!

papa wishes he had brought a pair back ($180/pair in US).

Also avail on Ebay.

Rim-locks are next best option.

Just got 2-pair from Ebay.

Hope to mount them on new wheels this week.

TUbliss.png

Edited by papa al
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You definately want heavy duty inner thbes papa even if using rim locks ,if you see the cost of them it doesn't seem to make the tubliss system so expensive, ,,thinking to just order tubliss for the rear,,,,,don't think it's needed so much on the front.....shipping and import is the killer and I'm on the UK pound?????

 

Edited by taninthai
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5 minutes ago, taninthai said:

You definately want heavy duty inner thbes papa even if using rim locks ,if you see the cost of them it doesn't seem to make the tubliss system so expensive, ,,thinking to just order tubliss for the rear,,,,,don't think it's needed so much on the front.....shipping and import is the killer and I'm on the UK pound?????

 

You are going about this the wrong way, it is the tyre rotating on the rim that is the problem. The increased grip of the knobbly tyres creates a "sliding load" on the rim and slippage becomes easier when tyre pressures are low.

 

I have done a lot of off roading and lowing tyre pressures is an emergency measure and many off-roaders carry a compressor along to re-inflate after the hazard has passed.

 

One alternative is to put self tapping screws in the rims biting onto the tyres, or an adhesive, both to prevent rotation.

 

If you run tubeless you run the risk of the tyre rolling off the rim, then without a compressor you are pretty buggad.

 

I run the lowest pressure of just under 2 bar, think that is the best middle ground.

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TUbliss® ≠ tubeless.

With TUbliss you can run zero psi.

[Zero bar, Allen]

Chain-saw thru rear tire,

no prob,

keeps going.

Low pressure is not necessarily an emergency procedure.

It is a maximum traction configuration,

especially with trials tires.

 

Edited by papa al
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i have emailed the seller in usa to see if he can do any deals on multiple orders ,i only want a rear 18' anyone be interested in ordering, currently sent message asking about a deal on two rear 18" rears ,awaiting reply.will definitely save on shipping,.

Edited by taninthai
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On 06/11/2016 at 5:56 PM, papa al said:

TUbliss® ≠ tubeless.

With TUbliss you can run zero psi.

[Zero bar, Allen]

Chain-saw thru rear tire,

no prob,

keeps going.

Low pressure is not necessarily an emergency procedure.

It is a maximum traction configuration,

especially with trials tires.

Well Al-baby, if you don't mind riding around on flat tyres go for it kidda, you are a better rider than I, handling a bike with a chain saw stuck in the tyre. Doesn't it get jammed in the forks as the wheel rotates?

 

Also highway riding must be interesting!!!???, doesn't anyone stop you tell you "you've got a chain saw stuck in your tyre"?

 

Do these rims have bead lockers?

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Lifan wheels & Vee Rubber trials tires & rim-locks.

 

Vee tires DOT approved !

Front mfged 36th week of '16 [August]

rear, 40th week of '16, [Sept]

so fresh.

Decided on 2 rim-locks per wheel, so

will drill rims tomorrow 

8mm

and take to shop for rim-tapes, tubes and mounting.

papa thinks these will work well on the Lifan

for dirty riding,

unless i get a chain-saw stuck in the forks.

Photo on 11-9-2559 BE at 6.29 PM.jpg

Photo on 11-9-2559 BE at 6.31 PM.jpg

Lifan 200.jpg

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They are not.

That is why papa will use regular [HD if available] tubes,

as iterated in #298.

 

TUbliss [as on my '85 TY350 rear]

uses a thin high pressure [100+psi]

'inner-inner' tube to lock the bead to the rim

and obviates the regular tube.

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