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Bagan: Myanmar's Rapid-Fire Development Risks Ancient Site


Jonathan Fairfield

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Bagan: Myanmar's Rapid-Fire Development Risks Ancient Site

by IAN WILLIAMS


BAGAN, Myanmar — Well before dawn tourists begin climbing the steep steps of an ancient Buddhist temple, their cameras at the ready to capture first light over the remains of Bagan.


It's an awesome sight. As the sun's first rays highlight the deep red bricks of countless temples and pagodas, it's hard to imagine how anybody could challenge Bagan's pursuit of UNESCO World Heritage Site status.


Until, that is, you look more closely at what is happening here: A dangerously sloppy rebuilding program, slew of illegal hotels and rapid-fire economic development that risk destroying the priceless site.


"This is a special place. UNESCO needs to do something — for conservation, for preservation — before it is too late," said Sann Htay, who has been providing tours of the site for 38 years.


The city of Bagan thrived from the 9th to the 13th centuries in the heart of what is now Myanmar. The remains of more than 2,000 temples, pagodas, stupas and monasteries that cover an area of 26 square miles fell into obscurity during the decades of economic and political isolation under the country's military rulers.



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