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STREETWISE
Thailand's 'kitchen of the world' defrosts slowly in Milan
Achara Deboonme

BANGKOK: -- A week in Milan (or any other city in Italy) is enough to kill your appetite for spaghetti. The dish dominates menus everywhere, from busy tourist cafes to small back-alley restaurants, and comes with a vast variety of sauces, all made with local ingredients.

Thailand's equivalent is som tam, the ubiquitous spicy salad with an endless array of flavours depending on the ingredients used. The fiery dish is often the first thing that Thais turn to after returning from a trip abroad. No matter how tasty the food overseas, the memories are quickly wiped out by the unique flavours of som tam.

Hence it seems a shame that the comparatively bland pad thai is what Thai food is famous for among foreigners. Sadly, there is no data to show how much money Thailand is reaping from that fame. In contrast, data from the Italian Association of Confectionery and Pasta Industries shows that Italy earns nearly 2 billion euros (Bt74.5 billion) per annum from the export of over 1 million tonnes of pasta.

Neither pad thai nor som tam found their way into the Thailand Pavilion at the Milan Expo 2015. Perhaps Thai curators thought they didn't fit the expo's theme, "Feeding the Planet, Energy for Life". Personally, I think they do. All the ingredients for the two dishes can be found in Thailand, fitting the "slow food" theme, which promotes the use of locally sourced materials that reduce the energy used in transportation.

Are they "too local", then? Maybe: While it's true that pad thai can be found on the menu at five-star hotels, som tam is still mainly confined to local eateries catering to Thai tastes. The same goes for nam prik - the myriad delicious dips eaten with fresh vegetables and rice. And though gaeng keow waan (green curry) is famous around the world, Thailand still keeps a lid on its many other flavoursome curries.

Perhaps all that competition is another reason why pad thai and som tam weren't singled out for attention in the pavilion.

In terms of technology, however, the Thai pavilion is second to none among the 145 national showcases.

The first of its three rooms employs interesting video-conferencing technology to leave visitors in no doubt as to Thailand's geographical location.

Entering the second they find themselves inside a big pot, whose sides serve as a 360-degree video screen. The designer must have had a headache deciding which ingredients should go into the pot, which is supposed to demonstrate Thailand's desire to be a "kitchen of the world". As it turns out the visitor experiences a menu of video and photos featuring chicken farms and piggeries, plus frozen foodstuffs and international awards won by Thai food products. To my dismay, I didn't see a pad thai or a som tam among them. And I knew I wouldn't find them in them in the third room either, which was dedicated to His Majesty's royal projects.

The Agriculture and Agricultural Cooperatives Ministry has spent over Bt800 million on the pavilion and expects about 2 million visitors during the six months' duration of the expo.

That seems a high number given that the expo organisers' forecast is 20 million visitors in total.

Olarn Pitak, director-general of the Department of Agricultural Extension, expressed satisfaction at the Thai showcase, declaring it was second to none and would remind visitors every moment of what they could find in Thailand.

"They will love Thailand and gain confidence in our products. It will be a success if it encourages them to buy Thai products. Yet success can't be judged in terms of figures alone, but also by sustainability."

Perhaps Olarn's words help to explain why visitors are led through a store full of frozen Thai food before they leave. Here they can buy a variety of frosty delicacies, as well as instant noodles - the pour-on-hot-water version of an authentic Thai dish that requires much more time to prepare.

Indeed, the pavilion's concept is good and its design distinctive - shaped as a ngob, or Thai farmer's hat. The store sums up the story that Thailand is great at producing rice-based staples and transforming them into a ready-to-eat format. That may be the reason why we neglected to tell the world that we are the globe's biggest exporter of several agricultural products - something that small countries like Morocco are keen to do.

With no restaurant, the Thai pavilion is not a place where visitors linger. By contrast, the dazzling restaurants at the South Korean, Japanese and German showcases mean they are always busy. With appetites whetted by a stimulating presentation on kimchi, visitors to the Korean pavilion are eager to taste the real thing. They think nothing of queuing up and paying 15 euros for a bowl of rice and vegetables, 20 euros for grilled beef, one euro for a side of kimchi and another 4 euros for a cup of green tea. Lunch can be had for 15 euros nearby, but why pass over the opportunity for authentic, hot and tasty exotic fare?

Meanwhile, over at the Thai pavilion, visitors hungry for authentic Siamese flavours can buy a frozen dish, take it home and stuff it in the microwave.

Source: http://www.nationmultimedia.com/opinion/Thailands-kitchen-of-the-world-defrosts-slowly-in--30264833.html


-- The Nation 2015-07-21

[Katipo]

Nice article, but it ignores the fact that Phad Thai is popular because it's relatively bland (compared to Som Tam, Kua Kling, Gang Paa etc), low price, and quick and easy preparation make it very accessible to western pallets. Not to mention that the above make it especially popular with backpackers who then leave Thailand with this dish etched in their memories.

[Lupatria]

Same same but different copy, copy again…

What’s most fascinating about pad Thai, however, is that it probably isn’t even Thai. Noodles, stir-fry, and, especially, noodle stir-fries are quintessentially Chinese. In fact, just about every ingredient found in pad Thai isn’t native to the people after whom the dish is named. The only really Thai ingredient is the pounded dried chillies.

Not too long ago, it could hardly be found in Thailand. That is, until Plaek Pibulsonggram, or Phibun as the late Thai Prime Minister is also known, introduced it to his people. It was part of Phibun’s nation-building strategy to develop ‘Thai-ness’ and impose a ‘Thai Great Tradition’ to demonstrate the strength and unity of the Thai nation.

Even the dish’s full name, kway teow pad Thai nods to its Chinese origins (kway teow is Chinese for rice noodles). Its name literally means ‘Thai-style stir-fried noodles,’ and for a dish to be so named in its own country clearly suggests an origin that isn’t Thai.

...and the Tuktuk was invented in Japan as Lipovitan - not much left of Thai originals, unless they claim to be inventors of the lightbulp.

[mango66]

Same same but different copy, copy again…

What’s most fascinating about pad Thai, however, is that it probably isn’t even Thai. Noodles, stir-fry, and, especially, noodle stir-fries are quintessentially Chinese. In fact, just about every ingredient found in pad Thai isn’t native to the people after whom the dish is named. The only really Thai ingredient is the pounded dried chillies.

Not too long ago, it could hardly be found in Thailand. That is, until Plaek Pibulsonggram, or Phibun as the late Thai Prime Minister is also known, introduced it to his people. It was part of Phibun’s nation-building strategy to develop ‘Thai-ness’ and impose a ‘Thai Great Tradition’ to demonstrate the strength and unity of the Thai nation.

Even the dish’s full name, kway teow pad Thai nods to its Chinese origins (kway teow is Chinese for rice noodles). Its name literally means ‘Thai-style stir-fried noodles,’ and for a dish to be so named in its own country clearly suggests an origin that isn’t Thai.

...and the Tuktuk was invented in Japan as Lipovitan - not much left of Thai originals, unless they claim to be inventors of the lightbulp.

if you really want put original thai food, 1 pound of chilli in every dish,

no one can eat it,

just Thai eat it, as their taste for food is altready damaged by chilli from their childhood onwards !!

( Congnac on the rocks !! )

[wabothai]

Same same but different copy, copy again…

What’s most fascinating about pad Thai, however, is that it probably isn’t even Thai. Noodles, stir-fry, and, especially, noodle stir-fries are quintessentially Chinese. In fact, just about every ingredient found in pad Thai isn’t native to the people after whom the dish is named. The only really Thai ingredient is the pounded dried chillies.

Not too long ago, it could hardly be found in Thailand. That is, until Plaek Pibulsonggram, or Phibun as the late Thai Prime Minister is also known, introduced it to his people. It was part of Phibun’s nation-building strategy to develop ‘Thai-ness’ and impose a ‘Thai Great Tradition’ to demonstrate the strength and unity of the Thai nation.

Even the dish’s full name, kway teow pad Thai nods to its Chinese origins (kway teow is Chinese for rice noodles). Its name literally means ‘Thai-style stir-fried noodles,’ and for a dish to be so named in its own country clearly suggests an origin that isn’t Thai.

...and the Tuktuk was invented in Japan as Lipovitan - not much left of Thai originals, unless they claim to be inventors of the lightbulp.

if you really want put original thai food, 1 pound of chilli in every dish,

no one can eat it,

just Thai eat it, as their taste for food is altready damaged by chilli from their childhood onwards !!

( Congnac on the rocks !! )

and don't forget the sugar added. horrible !

[Assurancetourix]

Same same but different copy, copy again…

The only really Thai ingredient is the pounded dried chillies.[/size]

Wrong ; Before the year 1505 there was no chillies in Thailand ;

They came with the Portugese navigators ;

before 1505 thai people used to use พริกไทย = " prick thai " = pepper

So there is nothing thai inside a pad thai

[Lupatria]

Same same but different copy, copy again…

What’s most fascinating about pad Thai, however, is that it probably isn’t even Thai. Noodles, stir-fry, and, especially, noodle stir-fries are quintessentially Chinese. In fact, just about every ingredient found in pad Thai isn’t native to the people after whom the dish is named. The only really Thai ingredient is the pounded dried chillies.

Not too long ago, it could hardly be found in Thailand. That is, until Plaek Pibulsonggram, or Phibun as the late Thai Prime Minister is also known, introduced it to his people. It was part of Phibun’s nation-building strategy to develop ‘Thai-ness’ and impose a ‘Thai Great Tradition’ to demonstrate the strength and unity of the Thai nation.

Even the dish’s full name, kway teow pad Thai nods to its Chinese origins (kway teow is Chinese for rice noodles). Its name literally means ‘Thai-style stir-fried noodles,’ and for a dish to be so named in its own country clearly suggests an origin that isn’t Thai.

...and the Tuktuk was invented in Japan as Lipovitan - not much left of Thai originals, unless they claim to be inventors of the lightbulp.

if you really want put original thai food, 1 pound of chilli in every dish,

no one can eat it,

just Thai eat it, as their taste for food is altready damaged by chilli from their childhood onwards !!

( Congnac on the rocks !! )

What makes a Thai Gourmet-Bolshevik?

3 teaspoons of chili in a rice noodle bowl

A chilled red wine for 5.000 baht per bottle

Ice cubes in a beer mug

Sweet chili sauce on a Chateau Briand

Deep fried garlic on a sole mignon

… need more? Look around you.

[uptoyoumyfriend]

just about all my friends visiting (mostly usa) like somtam,tamthai style ,not too spicey of course (and no msg).especially with gai yang and kao niew.

i think it would do really well in the west...

[khun custard]

What makes a Thai Gourmet-Bolshevik?

3 teaspoons of chili in a rice noodle bowl

A chilled red wine for 5.000 baht per bottle

Ice cubes in a beer mug

Sweet chili sauce on a Chateau Briand

Deep fried garlic on a sole mignon

… need more? Look around you.

Err, I hate to be a pompous <deleted> but.... just have a look at their knife and fork skills.

No need to pull out the Larousse nor try to explain the fundamentals of molecular gastronomy any time soon!!

[bermannor]

In my opinion Mr. Deboonemes article in the Nation has some serious shortcomings.

Albeit it is entertainingly written it lacks of careful investigation which might be due to too much spaghetti eating or red wine.

I have to say in advance that I havent visited the EXPO myself but sponsored three Thais (2 young ladies and one man, all university graduates in decent jobs) to visit the EXPO for 2 days on their Europe holiday trip.

So, every day I got first hand information and pictures about the visit and today, I verified some facts with them.

I agree, the Thai pavilion must be impressive, no doubt and no wonder how much money was spent.

It is just to the taste of Thai visitors and hopefully also Farangs because it provides the three main ingredients, documentation of His Majestys, The Kings, contribution and impact on the countrys rural development, shows (entertainment) and food, an very important aspect at least for Thais.

So far, the writer of the article is very correct.

But what he wrote about the food, the most important topic for any ordinary Thai, and I dont mean the upper class whose main interest is how to fill their pockets, there is in my opinion some need for clarification.

Pad Thai is certainly not a typical Thai dish Thailand can be proud of. Its cheap, filling, quickly made, mostly bland and often greasy.

The complete difference is som tam or tom yam. Both are time consuming to prepare and at least som tam has often a social component, a let us come together at afternoon, gossip and let us slice the papaya. So, its basically a ladys afternoon dish where as the men are already more into Sangthip or Mekong.

But thats not what the normal EXPO visitor has in mind. Eating real and I mean spicy som tam (of course with blue and black rice field crab) at a hot Italian summer afternoon, having not yet finished the must-to-do sightseeing list, is no option at all in a country which is famous for the real ice cream because for the naïve visitor, eating som tam means not to head for the next pavilion but instead searching desperately for the nearest drinking water fountain.

So, main consumers of this dish would be the Thai staff at the pavilion and very few Thai visitors, so not really big business.

But you must not miss your daily dose of som tam at the EXPO. Go straight to the Laos pavilion and you will get what you need. But this pavilion is difficult to find, not too impressive, built with far less money, no shows, but has, what Mr. Debooneme did not find at his pavilion, chairs, tables and the Thai national dish som tam.

Proof:

1:0 for Laos.

But now lets come to the Thai food.

Firstly, in my opinion completely incorrect, Mr. Debooneme writes about Thai frozen food. Its by no means frozen food but food from a cooling shelf. It might have been frozen all the way from Thailand, I dont know, but certainly its not frozen at the Thai pavilion.

Proof:

Secondly, its absolutely not true, that you have to leave the pavilion with the cold dishes.

There is a counter with plenty of microwaves. You give them your dish and 5 minutes later, you get it back hot and ready to eat.

So, it is outspoken incorrect that visitors hungry for authentic Siamese flavours can buy a frozen dish, take it home and stuff it in the microwave. They can do but dont have to.

Proof:

And in this picture, you also have the proof, that eating your dish is possible and dont need a fully fletched restaurant in the pavilion. There are plenty of possibilities to sit outside of pavilions, even with tables.

Finally lets talk about the economical and feasibility aspect. As Mr. Debooneme wrote, the Thai pavilion expects about 2 million visitors. The Expo is open 6 months or 183 days, so in average, the Thai pavilion draws 11 000 visitors. If only 10% of them want to try Thai dishes, you talk about 1100 dishes per day.

Who could handle the logistics, catering and has the financial strength? 10 to 20 Mae Ka, 20 Isaan papaya choppers and 50 helpers? Only an economic dreamer could think along this line.

Thats why an economic powerhouse and world player in food handles Thailands kitchen of the world, CP (Charoen Pokphand). And they do it big at the EXPO same as they do it more than 8000 times small in Thailand at the 7-Eleven Outlets. They provide convenience food, and that is what they can do best.

The big drawback according to my Thai visitors is that all catering staff is Italian. But that is understandable from an economic point of view and expected Thai visitor numbers. But a lack of professional training of staff to present Thai cuisine seemed to be obvious - staff training is a general weakness of Thai industry. Thais eat with fork and spoon, unknown by staff, and cheapest plastic cutlery doesnt make eating Thai delicacies an event. Thats cost cutting at wrong place.

Comparing Thailand with Korea and Japan at the EXPO is foolish and like comparing a wax candle with a floodlight, they play economical and number of visitors wise in a different league.

For them, 4 Euros or 150 baht for a cup of green tea isnt an eye opener and doesnt result in a state of shock or low tide in the wallet. Most European visitors are aware of the high cost of living in Japan and Korea and also know that Thailand is a country of extreme cheap food.

So, they expect reasonable prices for Thai food and that is not possible when you cook like Bussacaram.restaurant.

Only a small minority of Thais will be able to visit EXPO, so the fast majority of Thais rely on what is written and shown on TV in Thailand and, Mr. Debooneme, so it is very important that the Thai people get a fair impression of Thailands footprint in Italy. Food wise you send a wrong impression to the Thai people. My Thai visitors at least have been very proud of how Thailand presented itself, including food wise.