biplanebluey Posted October 27, 2015 Share Posted October 27, 2015 It has been OK for a couple of yrs but now the concrete walls of our house are going black along the bottoms on 2 sides of the house.The rain has penetrated the inside of the wall and leaves a black patch. O/S I have purchased a black bitumin paint used for rising damp .the paint would be perfect if I could get it--------anyone had same problem and solved? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmsally Posted October 27, 2015 Share Posted October 27, 2015 http://tha.sika.com/en/group.html Lots of waterproofing products. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rogergreybeard Posted October 27, 2015 Share Posted October 27, 2015 What did you expect this is black mold getting in and growing very dangerous to your health, here walls are never sealed and light weight bricks are very pourous, ergo no building codes are followed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nev Posted October 27, 2015 Share Posted October 27, 2015 On the inside wall, why not stick on the small sandstone bricks and make it a feature wall, but make sure you prepare the wall before sticking on. Outside you could build another skin of bricks up to the underside of the window's and render. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silent Posted October 28, 2015 Share Posted October 28, 2015 (edited) What did you expect this is black mold getting in and growing very dangerous to your health, here walls are never sealed and light weight bricks are very pourous, ergo no building codes are followed. Yes and there once was a time Ontario had no OBC and wasn't such a wealth of information either. There's not that many ous in porous either, ergo by the way, but I did see a product here in Home Pro that's white for damp areas and from what I remember can possibly be painted or troweled on like parging that might be worth looking at. I would definitely be looking at drenching it with a fungicide, or maybe even consider a bromine solution or something similar to spray and penetrate deep within those pours first. It would also help anything adhere better in a retrofit situation, but I'm no expert. Edited October 28, 2015 by silent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
williet98248 Posted October 28, 2015 Share Posted October 28, 2015 Go to your local Home Mart and buy some wall sealer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SOTIRIOS Posted October 28, 2015 Share Posted October 28, 2015 (edited) ...the drainage and wall bases should have been prepared and sealed long ago.... ...and the bare ends.....hard to understand why they do not make some obvious, slight innovations/modifications...all these years... ...how to extract mold from concrete...... Edited October 28, 2015 by SOTIRIOS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
biplanebluey Posted October 28, 2015 Author Share Posted October 28, 2015 (edited) On the inside wall, why not stick on the small sandstone bricks and make it a feature wall, but make sure you prepare the wall before sticking on. Outside you could build another skin of bricks up to the underside of the window's and render. So you suggest building 3 (three?) brick walls halfway round my house,one on the inside of the original and one on the outside ? Edited October 28, 2015 by biplanebluey Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
biplanebluey Posted October 28, 2015 Author Share Posted October 28, 2015 ...the drainage and wall bases should have been prepared and sealed long ago.... ...and the bare ends.....hard to understand why they do not make some obvious, slight innovations/modifications...all these years... ...how to extract mold from concrete...... Thanks for all that information-------- 1) yes I know the solution should have"been prepared and sealed long ago"---- that does not help me !! 2) your quote----- "how to extract mould (not mold) from concrete-"----- that was MY question !---again no help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arwon Posted October 28, 2015 Share Posted October 28, 2015 Dont forget that bricks and concrete act as a sponge, a barrier also needs to be underneath to stop moisture rising from the ground Sent from my GT-P6800 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whatproblem Posted October 28, 2015 Share Posted October 28, 2015 (edited) I built a second skin on my house and it cooled it down big ,the wall was drawing the heat in the day and radiating it out at night ,I think I save the money I spent doing it on electricity on aircon in a few years.also stop sounds Edited October 28, 2015 by whatproblem Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xen Posted October 28, 2015 Share Posted October 28, 2015 I am not too sure if i understand the situation correctly so i apologize if this is not relevant. If the wall is sitting directly on a slab footing then you may be able to drill holes and inject a silicone solution that will penetrate the concrete or concrete masonry block . The walls are not shotcreted are they ? Usually they are not that porous. You would have to go to Home Pro or other hardware supplier to see if the silicone is available in Thailand . I have seen it done many times but never done it myself so i am no expert. The silicon acts in the same way as a lead or tin damp course would and spreads horizontally . They also call it chemical damp proofing.This is often done on pre damp course built homes and heritage buildings You need to prevent the damp from raising vertically with a horizontal layer of silicon, if that is the problem. If you seal the walls and moisture is still entering then the sealant will prevent the wall from drying . Using pool chlorine and applying it will temporarily clean up the black mould . Best of luck with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sheryl Posted October 28, 2015 Share Posted October 28, 2015 I built a second skin on my house and it cooled it down big ,the wall was drawing the heat in the day and radiating it out at night ,I think I save the money I spent doing it on electricity on aircon in a few years.also stop sounds OK you've really got my interest now. My house is brick on the upper story, concrete blocks on the lower and definitely draws in heat during the day and radiates it out at night, and my electric bill is very high due to the a/c needed to keep it at comfort level. No problems with mold or moisture on the inside walls, but I would definitely be interested in anything that would cool it down. I'm due to for a new coat of paint inside anyhow so might be timely. "second skin" using what? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goonnerone Posted October 28, 2015 Share Posted October 28, 2015 What did you expect this is black mold getting in and growing very dangerous to your health, here walls are never sealed and light weight bricks are very pourous, ergo no building codes are followed. The OP was asking for some advice not your self righteous attitude Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swissie Posted October 28, 2015 Share Posted October 28, 2015 We see them everyday: Buildings partially covered by this black ugly mould. But I have never seen a Thai "do something about it". So the black mould must be considered as "no problem" for the building itself. (??) It was suggested, that Chlorine would take care of the problem. Would the Chlorine not be "harmful" to the concrete/concrete bricks in some sort of way? Thx & cheers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sometimewoodworker Posted October 28, 2015 Share Posted October 28, 2015 I built a second skin on my house and it cooled it down big ,the wall was drawing the heat in the day and radiating it out at night ,I think I save the money I spent doing it on electricity on aircon in a few years.also stop sounds OK you've really got my interest now. My house is brick on the upper story, concrete blocks on the lower and definitely draws in heat during the day and radiates it out at night, and my electric bill is very high due to the a/c needed to keep it at comfort level. No problems with mold or moisture on the inside walls, but I would definitely be interested in anything that would cool it down. I'm due to for a new coat of paint inside anyhow so might be timely. "second skin" using what? The best second skin would be 7.5cm AAC blocks, and outside would be better than inside. An alternative, though less effective, would be to use one of the heat reducing white paints. It is surprising how effective they are.This walkway is comfortable to walk on barefoot even after several hours of direct sun. The concrete apron is uncomfortably hot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wombat6 Posted October 28, 2015 Share Posted October 28, 2015 Shell Flintkote !! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThaiTony2 Posted October 28, 2015 Share Posted October 28, 2015 Home Sukkapan and maybe other home supply places such as Home Pro carry a product called: Thompson Water Seal. They sell sealers for various surfaces including cement and brick as well as wood. I know that Thailand has other brands which may work as intended. I've used Thompsons Water Seal a few times in my life and was satisfied. As for the dark visual stains: if me I would get some Clorox Bleach. It comes in a White plastic bottle. They carry it at Rim Ping supermarket. Using a spray bottle or better yet, use a paint brush and soak it. Then apply to the affected areas. It the bleach absorbs through the cement wall that is good and what your're looking to accomplish. The Clorox bleach will kill the mold growth. After it is absorbed and dries, repeat again. If the wall has large mold patches you may consider using a hard bristle hand brush. Scrub the affected areas and saturate with the bleach as mentioned. Only other thing is: were a protector over your nose and mouth, and use hand protection if larger quantities are used. Try not to touch any mold spores. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piewarmer Posted November 7, 2015 Share Posted November 7, 2015 Shell Flintkote !! Yes. great stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sheryl Posted November 8, 2015 Share Posted November 8, 2015 OK you've really got my interest now. My house is brick on the upper story, concrete blocks on the lower and definitely draws in heat during the day and radiates it out at night, and my electric bill is very high due to the a/c needed to keep it at comfort level. No problems with mold or moisture on the inside walls, but I would definitely be interested in anything that would cool it down. I'm due to for a new coat of paint inside anyhow so might be timely. "second skin" using what? The best second skin would be 7.5cm AAC blocks, and outside would be better than inside. An alternative, though less effective, would be to use one of the heat reducing white paints. It is surprising how effective they are... What brands of paint are these? And (this may be a stupid question) does it need to be on the exterior of the house to work, or can it be on the interior? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sometimewoodworker Posted November 8, 2015 Share Posted November 8, 2015 OK you've really got my interest now. My house is brick on the upper story, concrete blocks on the lower and definitely draws in heat during the day and radiates it out at night, and my electric bill is very high due to the a/c needed to keep it at comfort level. No problems with mold or moisture on the inside walls, but I would definitely be interested in anything that would cool it down. I'm due to for a new coat of paint inside anyhow so might be timely. "second skin" using what? The best second skin would be 7.5cm AAC blocks, and outside would be better than inside. An alternative, though less effective, would be to use one of the heat reducing white paints. It is surprising how effective they are... What brands of paint are these? And (this may be a stupid question) does it need to be on the exterior of the house to work, or can it be on the interior? As they work by reflecting the IR it wouldn't do much good on the inside. I used TOA sunblock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sheryl Posted November 9, 2015 Share Posted November 9, 2015 Thanks. Will try to find it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sometimewoodworker Posted November 10, 2015 Share Posted November 10, 2015 Thanks. Will try to find it. There's a picture in the thread under http://www.thaivisa.com/forum/topic/699564-anyone-painted-their-roof-before-pattaya/#entry10034647 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billphillips Posted November 23, 2015 Share Posted November 23, 2015 Remove mould using hydrochloric acid 30%. Kill existing spores deep within masonry using hydrogen peroxide. Stop water penetration using any of the many solutions available from builders yards. Ventilate problematic rooms well and keep furniture etc away from the walls. Without a damp proof membrane there is only so much that can be done. Do keep on top of the situation because it's an extremely unhealthy living environment. The heavy duty chemicals above are extremely dangerous to handle / use, particularly hydrochloric acid. The toilet cleaner branded "Duck" contains 15% and may suffice if you persevere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johng Posted November 23, 2015 Share Posted November 23, 2015 The ARO ( Makro ) branded " toilet cleaner violet " says it contains 22% hydrochloric acid. I would have though that either hydrochloric acid or hydrogen peroxide would have killed most stuff and mixing them together got something like the gas used in the trenches of WW1 !! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billphillips Posted November 24, 2015 Share Posted November 24, 2015 The ARO ( Makro ) branded " toilet cleaner violet " says it contains 22% hydrochloric acid. I would have though that either hydrochloric acid or hydrogen peroxide would have killed most stuff and mixing them together got something like the gas used in the trenches of WW1 !! It sure baffles me how you came to the conclusion, from my post, that the chemicals need to be mixed. 2 different chemicals for 2 different uses. The info on the macro stuff is useful though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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