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Would you do it again?


Inquisitorial

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Hi

We are wondering what the train trip is like from Bangkok to Chang Mai.

Interested to hear if any forum members use the train to travel to and from Bangkok from Chang Mai.

Should we experience at least one way or should we give the train experience a miss and just fly?

Thanks

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My family, a party of 5 booked, 3 First Class sleepers. (4 years ago.) At BKK station we were told sleeper coach not available refunds available at Chang Mai. Train broke down 30 minutes in. Total journey time over 14 hours; then queue to get refund. We came back on the plane & have never touched the train since.

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Been a few times - always 2nd class fan with sleeper bunks . Not expensive and always an adventure. Seem to meet all types of people from backpackers, expats and some really nice 12 hour lifetime Thai friends. Always a party time after a few hours so bring some food to share if you don't care for the food offered at the stations or the onboard food.. If that doesn't appeal then catch the plane.

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1st class can be a cold, lonely & boring experience. 2nd class much more of an interesting social occasion & cheaper.

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Back in the 1970;s and 1980's did 4 2nd class overnight sleeper runs by train from Bangkok to Penang/Georgetown on Visa Runs.

Getting to old for that sort of thing now (68 years), but if I could, would do it again.

Good memories of that time and train journey.... not only in Thailand but years later in Vietnam also (2011).

Yes if I could I would do it again.

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I did it about a year and a half ago (just before the coup) and found it a most enjoyable experience. My buddy and I took second class sleepers (he had the upper, I the lower) with a nice Japanese couple opposite. A very sociable party atmosphere prevailed. I would do it again. Only thing I would not order the food on the train again. I found it barely edible. There is a food court right in the station at Chang Mai with some good breakfast on offer. I flew back but that was for scheduling reasons. Definitely give it a try for, as someone said, it can be a nice little adventure.

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Since I am retired and have more freetime, I have taken the train a few times to Chiang Mai and Nong Khai. While the cost of 2nd class and even 1st class train tickets is inexpensive, airfares are competitive, so no real cost savings. I agree that 1st class is cold and impersonal - and I find being in a private room with a stranger to be awkward and much prefer 2nd class aircon travel.

Since my train travel is at night - there really isn't much sightseeing to be had and the trains I took were consistently 2-3 hours late. I do find the interaction with fellow travelers to be the most interesting aspect of train travel.

Overall, if time is not essential, then taking the train in one direction and flying back is a good option.

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Done it twice in the last 2 years, return journeys. Very good experience, only a small delay on one sector. Booked the first class sleeper private suite as we travelled with our son. If you are travelling alone, it would be uncomfortable to be locked up with a stranger. Air conditioning was very good, but old and weak persons may find it uncomfortable. Toilets and shower stalls well maintained. Food was bad. Narrow gauge, so the ride is a bit shaky.

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I think the overnight sleeper is the only way to do it.

I travelled both ways by day train - 14 hours each way in an over air-conditioned and very uncomfortable carriage.

The longest 14 hours of my life each time and the worst train experience I've ever had.

The train crawled along at times, the driver obviously uncertain of the integrity of the track, given so many previous derailments.

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This time of year 2nd class fan is the best. If you're taking one of the night sleepers, there's nothing much to see at night once you've wound your slow way out of Bangkok, but waking up in the hills and chill air after Den Chai, as the train weaves its slow way into Chiang Mai is fantastic.

With time on your hands, I'd recommend it over flying, and in any case worth doing at least once in your lifetime.

Just a shame that there's no longer beer or indeed any alcohol served on Thai trains.

Edited by asdecas
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This time of year 2nd class fan is the best. If you're taking one of the night sleepers, there's nothing much to see at night once you've wound your slow way out of Bangkok, but waking up in the hills and chill air after Den Chai, as the train weaves its slow way into Chiang Mai is fantastic.

With time on your hands, I'd recommend it over flying, and in any case worth doing at least once in your lifetime.

Just a shame that there's no longer beer or indeed any alcohol served on Thai trains.

Yeah. A cold beer on a slow train was one of life's great travel experiences. Plus it made the food more palatable.

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I have done this many times.

Very slow. Can be fun. Train staff can be annoying (pestering you to buy stuff). Food is not good. Sleepers may have biting insects. More comfortable than the bus. Easier than the plane if you have a lot of luggage.

Do it once unless you are a single female. There have been cases of harrassment.

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We've done both 2nd class sleeper and first class.

3 hours or so delay being the norm for us.

2nd class and we were near the end of the car and the workers were noisy all night!

The automatic door noisy everythime any passenger went to the toilet.

Toilets very dirty.

1st class, toilets were well maintained.

Had power socket for the laptop.

We enjoyed the quiet and privacy but missed the "meeting people".

A very long 17 hour and frustrating day, but it had to be done just for the experience.

The food was not very good and expensive.

Aircon too cold, have something warm to wear if needed.

If you are being collected on arrival, make sure you have their phone number and call them when you have almost arrived.

Have also travelled by VIP Bus too.

If you get the posh one with all the games etc, be prepared to listen to many people each playing a different "Shoot Up" game - sleep impossible.

Give it a go - why not?

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Agree that first class is the way to go, especially if you're with a partner. If you choose 2nd class, book early and get lower berths for both of you. The upper is smaller and has less storage space, maybe rocks more. Uppers are fine for children.

You might want to consider CM -> Bkk instead. The train to CM is notoriously late. Going in to Bkk seems to have a better on-time record.

Edited by LawrenceN
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I've travelled on the day train and as another poster said, it's not a great experience. Food on this train was supplied as part of the ticket price, but service was over some time in the early afternoon, we didn't have bottled water and so arrived into Chiang Mai somewhat dehydrated. It didn't help that the train was two hours late, as it often is.

On the night trains, I have only travelled second class air-con sleeper , so don't have experience of first class, although I've heard the first class air-con is super cold. So these comments relate to the second class sleepers: I prefer the Thai built sleeping carriages (central aisle, with seats/bunks along the sides of the carriage). I personally would avoid trains #13/#14, which are Japanese carriages (aisle along the side of the carriage, and compartments of four berths) and which (in one carriage I travelled in) seemed to be in very poor condition).

The travel can be very social as other posters have said, although on the services I was on the crew ran a fairly tight ship - lights out around 10 pm. If you can, get a lower berth - it tends to be more comfortable. As another poster alluded, sometimes there have been problems with bed bugs - I haven't experienced this, but it must have been a problem because at once stage the rail authority took the trains out of service for a couple of weeks while they got rid of the aforesaid bugs.

Not having alcohol any more is a great shame - beer did make the so-so food more palatable.

The track was in very poor condition at one stage and was supposedly re-built a year or two ago. I don't know what the on-time running has been like since then but I imagine delays are still commonplace.

Lots of helpful info at seat61 - who, it must be said, are passionate advocates of train travel.

I think if you take the train, your enjoyment might depend on how lucky you are with the people around you, and your own openness to the experience.

Good luck!

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Thank you for all your comments

Are you able to take your own food and beer on the train?

Also, keen to know what the ticket inspector scam was all about I find that if you know about the scams you are less likely to get caught?

Taking your own food is fine. Alcohol of any kind is prohibited.

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Also, keen to know what the ticket inspector scam was all about I find that if you know about the scams you are less likely to get caught?

My ticket had the wrong date. (done deliberately I assume)

So they let me on (rather than sending me back to the ticket office to change it), grabbed me the moment the train left the station.

Escorted me off, at the next station, then made me pay 500bht to change the ticket.

Guessing it was done with the compliance of the BK ticket office.

Check the date on the ticket they hand you.

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Also, keen to know what the ticket inspector scam was all about I find that if you know about the scams you are less likely to get caught?

My ticket had the wrong date. (done deliberately I assume)

So they let me on (rather than sending me back to the ticket office to change it), grabbed me the moment the train left the station.

Escorted me off, at the next station, then made me pay 500bht to change the ticket.

Guessing it was done with the compliance of the BK ticket office.

Check the date on the ticket they hand you.

Whenever I've bought tickets at the station in Bangkok - which is something I've done many times - they've been very careful to show me which dates and times were on the tickets. I can't see them making that kind of mistake. Are you absolutely sure it wasn't your error?

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