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Vegetable garden tests - Step 1 : weeds


Fulvio65

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Hello,

I'd like to eliminate the weeds on small areas ( 20-40 square meters ) where I'd like to begin some tests of soil amendment and manure.

How to proceed: burn, cover with plastic foils ? I do not need to be fast.

If I have understood the main issue is not to bury the weeds' seeds.

Attached a picture of the current state.

Thanks

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Perhaps we can be a little more welcoming to a newbie?

The photo shows a healthy patch of weeds. My take is the soil is basically not bad and can be worked up. You can assume that the "seed load" in the soil is high already so dont worry too much about those above the ground. New weeds will grow after you remove the current crop.

First step, loosen the soil and pull out the weeds. Others will germinate and should be pulled before they go to seed. Repetition will win out. Use rice straw or whatever crop residues you can get and cover the soil. This will help retain moisture and reduce the weed problem.

Before you worry about the nutrient levels etc. you should do a basic soil test to find out what the clay/soil content is. Easily done by shaking up a sample in a jar of water and letting in settle out (google for process). Also a good idea to check the percolation rate by digging a small hole and filling it with water. Measure the time it takes for the water to sink in. Repeat and measure again (heaps of info on the web). This will give you an indication of the depth of soil, compaction and the amount of water it can hold.

Check what is being grown around the area and what methods are used, what the results are like.

Remember there are two issues. First, the condition and health of the soil, and second the nutrient requirements needed to grow whatever you plant. The usual soil tests available only show the total amounts of NPK present and not what is plant available. The soil must have organic matter in it to maintain a healthy biological population. Get that right and the fertiliser needs will decrease. Heaps of information to read up on and money to be saved.

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Perhaps we can be a little more welcoming to a newbie?

The photo shows a healthy patch of weeds. My take is the soil is basically not bad and can be worked up. You can assume that the "seed load" in the soil is high already so dont worry too much about those above the ground. New weeds will grow after you remove the current crop.

First step, loosen the soil and pull out the weeds. Others will germinate and should be pulled before they go to seed. Repetition will win out. Use rice straw or whatever crop residues you can get and cover the soil. This will help retain moisture and reduce the weed problem.

Before you worry about the nutrient levels etc. you should do a basic soil test to find out what the clay/soil content is. Easily done by shaking up a sample in a jar of water and letting in settle out (google for process). Also a good idea to check the percolation rate by digging a small hole and filling it with water. Measure the time it takes for the water to sink in. Repeat and measure again (heaps of info on the web). This will give you an indication of the depth of soil, compaction and the amount of water it can hold.

Check what is being grown around the area and what methods are used, what the results are like.

Remember there are two issues. First, the condition and health of the soil, and second the nutrient requirements needed to grow whatever you plant. The usual soil tests available only show the total amounts of NPK present and not what is plant available. The soil must have organic matter in it to maintain a healthy biological population. Get that right and the fertiliser needs will decrease. Heaps of information to read up on and money to be saved.

Thank you alot for your help and encouragement.
I'm a bit familiar with the tests you described and I've already carried out them on another land near there;them all belong to my family.
I've also used a "Do it yourself test for NPK" there ( result nearly 0.00 )
This was the first time I was facing such an heavy weed infestation, and I didn't know how to begin. There are only cocconut and banana trees at the moment.
They use cocconut leaves for mulching when necessary

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Looks like dirt, not soil (just like mine). What compostable materials do you have access to? I would be adding animal manure composted with residues and even biochar if you can. As much organic matter as you can. I am not a no dig farmer, I would be ploughing and rotary hoeing it in to increase the soil profile. The biology and worms will rebound quick enough, the oxygen levels will higher, and the water will be retained rather than just soaking or evaporating away.

Stop off at a rice miller and get a few bags of rice hulls. Use that to mulch around some of the corn plants (after watering). You should see a difference by just covering the soil to reduce temperature and limiting evaporation losses. Help with the weeds too, not as many and easier to pull.

The NPK test kits aren't up to much and the real issues are the micronutrients which are not covered.

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